Ute, Paiute, Mojave, and Shoshone inhabit its frontiers, and as far into the heart of it as a man dare go. Not the law, but the land sets the limit. Desert is the name it wears upon the maps, but the Indian's is the better word. Desert is a loose term to indicate land that supports no man; whether the land can be bitted and broken to that purpose is not proven. Void of life it never is, however dry the air and villainous the soil.
This is the nature of that country. There are hills, rounded, blunt, burned, squeezed up out of chaos1, chrome and vermilion painted, aspiring2 to the snowline. Between the hills lie high level-looking plains full of intolerable sun glare, or narrow valleys drowned in a blue haze4. The hill surface is streaked5 with ash drift and black, unweathered lava6 flows. After rains water accumulates in the hollows of small closed valleys, and, evaporating, leaves hard dry levels of pure desertness that get the local name of dry lakes. Where the mountains are steep and the rains heavy, the pool is never quite dry, but dark and bitter, rimmed7 about with the efflorescence of alkaline deposits. A thin crust of it lies along the marsh8 over the vegetating9 area, which has neither beauty nor freshness. In the broad wastes open to the wind the sand drifts in hummocks10 about the stubby shrubs11, and between them the soil shows saline traces. The sculpture of the hills here is more wind than water work, though the quick storms do sometimes scar them past many a year's redeeming13. In all the Western desert edges there are essays in miniature at the famed, terrible Grand Canon, to which, if you keep on long enough in this country, you will come at last.
Since this is a hill country one expects to find springs, but not to depend upon them; for when found they are often brackish14 and unwholesome, or maddening, slow dribbles15 in a thirsty soil. Here you find the hot sink of Death Valley, or high rolling districts where the air has always a tang of frost. Here are the long heavy winds and breathless calms on the tilted16 mesas where dust devils dance, whirling up into a wide, pale sky. Here you have no rain when all the earth cries for it, or quick downpours called cloud-bursts for violence. A land of lost rivers, with little in it to love; yet a land that once visited must be come back to inevitably17. If it were not so there would be little told of it.
This is the country of three seasons. From June on to November it lies hot, still, and unbearable18, sick with violent unrelieving storms; then on until April, chill, quiescent19, drinking its scant20 rain and scanter21 snows; from April to the hot season again, blossoming, radiant, and seductive. These months are only approximate; later or earlier the rain-laden wind may drift up the water gate of the Colorado from the Gulf22, and the land sets its seasons by the rain.
The desert floras23 shame us with their cheerful adaptations to the seasonal24 limitations. Their whole duty is to flower and fruit, and they do it hardly, or with tropical luxuriance, as the rain admits. It is recorded in the report of the Death Valley expedition that after a year of abundant rains, on the Colorado desert was found a specimen25 of Amaranthus ten feet high. A year later the same species in the same place matured in the drought at four inches. One hopes the land may breed like qualities in her human offspring, not tritely26 to "try," but to do. Seldom does the desert herb attain27 the full stature28 of the type. Extreme aridity29 and extreme altitude have the same dwarfing30 effect, so that we find in the high Sierras and in Death Valley related species in miniature that reach a comely31 growth in mean temperatures. Very fertile are the desert plants in expedients32 to prevent evaporation33, turning their foliage34 edge-wise toward the sun, growing silky hairs, exuding35 viscid gum. The wind, which has a long sweep, harries36 and helps them. It rolls up dunes37 about the stocky stems, encompassing38 and protective, and above the dunes, which may be, as with the mesquite, three times as high as a man, the blossoming twigs39 flourish and bear fruit.
There are many areas in the desert where drinkable water lies within a few feet of the surface, indicated by the mesquite and the bunch grass (Sporobolus airoides). It is this nearness of unimagined help that makes the tragedy of desert deaths. It is related that the final breakdown40 of that hapless party that gave Death Valley its forbidding name occurred in a locality where shallow wells would have saved them. But how were they to know that? Properly equipped it is possible to go safely across that ghastly sink, yet every year it takes its toll41 of death, and yet men find there sun-dried mummies, of whom no trace or recollection is preserved. To underestimate one's thirst, to pass a given landmark42 to the right or left, to find a dry spring where one looked for running water—there is no help for any of these things.
Along springs and sunken watercourses one is surprised to find such water-loving plants as grow widely in moist ground, but the true desert breeds its own kind, each in its particular habitat. The angle of the slope, the frontage of a hill, the structure of the soil determines the plant. South-looking hills are nearly bare, and the lower tree-line higher here by a thousand feet. Canons running east and west will have one wall naked and one clothed. Around dry lakes and marshes43 the herbage preserves a set and orderly arrangement. Most species have well-defined areas of growth, the best index the voiceless land can give the traveler of his whereabouts.
If you have any doubt about it, know that the desert begins with the creosote. This immortal44 shrub12 spreads down into Death Valley and up to the lower timberline, odorous and medicinal as you might guess from the name, wandlike, with shining fretted45 foliage. Its vivid green is grateful to the eye in a wilderness46 of gray and greenish white shrubs. In the spring it exudes47 a resinous48 gum which the Indians of those parts know how to use with pulverized49 rock for cementing arrow points to shafts50. Trust Indians not to miss any virtues51 of the plant world!
Nothing the desert produces expresses it better than the unhappy growth of the tree yuccas. Tormented52, thin forests of it stalk drearily53 in the high mesas, particularly in that triangular54 slip that fans out eastward55 from the meeting of the Sierras and coastwise hills where the first swings across the southern end of the San Joaquin Valley. The yucca bristles56 with bayonet-pointed leaves, dull green, growing shaggy with age, tipped with panicles of fetid, greenish bloom. After death, which is slow, the ghostly hollow network of its woody skeleton, with hardly power to rot, makes the moonlight fearful. Before the yucca has come to flower, while yet its bloom is a creamy cone-shaped bud of the size of a small cabbage, full of sugary sap, the Indians twist it deftly57 out of its fence of daggers58 and roast it for their own delectation.
So it is that in those parts where man inhabits one sees young plants of Yucca arborensis infrequently. Other yuccas, cacti59, low herbs, a thousand sorts, one finds journeying east from the coastwise hills. There is neither poverty of soil nor species to account for the sparseness60 of desert growth, but simply that each plant requires more room. So much earth must be preempted61 to extract so much moisture. The real struggle for existence, the real brain of the plant, is underground; above there is room for a rounded perfect growth. In Death Valley, reputed the very core of desolation, are nearly two hundred identified species.
Above the lower tree-line, which is also the snowline, mapped out abruptly62 by the sun, one finds spreading growth of pinon, juniper, branched nearly to the ground, lilac and sage63, and scattering64 white pines.
There is no special preponderance of self-fertilized or wind-fertilized plants, but everywhere the demand for and evidence of insect life. Now where there are seeds and insects there will be birds and small mammals and where these are, will come the slinking, sharp-toothed kind that prey65 on them. Go as far as you dare in the heart of a lonely land, you cannot go so far that life and death are not before you. Painted lizards66 slip in and out of rock crevices67, and pant on the white hot sands. Birds, hummingbirds68 even, nest in the cactus69 scrub; woodpeckers befriend the demoniac yuccas; out of the stark70, treeless waste rings the music of the night-singing mockingbird. If it be summer and the sun well down, there will be a burrowing71 owl3 to call. Strange, furry72, tricksy things dart73 across the open places, or sit motionless in the conning74 towers of the creosote. The poet may have "named all the birds without a gun," but not the fairy-footed, ground-inhabiting, furtive75, small folk of the rainless regions. They are too many and too swift; how many you would not believe without seeing the footprint tracings in the sand. They are nearly all night workers, finding the days too hot and white. In mid-desert where there are no cattle, there are no birds of carrion76, but if you go far in that direction the chances are that you will find yourself shadowed by their tilted wings. Nothing so large as a man can move unspied upon in that country, and they know well how the land deals with strangers. There are hints to be had here of the way in which a land forces new habits on its dwellers77. The quick increase of suns at the end of spring sometimes overtakes birds in their nesting and effects a reversal of the ordinary manner of incubation. It becomes necessary to keep eggs cool rather than warm. One hot, stifling78 spring in the Little Antelope79 I had occasion to pass and repass frequently the nest of a pair of meadowlarks, located unhappily in the shelter of a very slender weed. I never caught them sitting except near night, but at mid-day they stood, or drooped80 above it, half fainting with pitifully parted bills, between their treasure and the sun. Sometimes both of them together with wings spread and half lifted continued a spot of shade in a temperature that constrained81 me at last in a fellow feeling to spare them a bit of canvas for permanent shelter. There was a fence in that country shutting in a cattle range, and along its fifteen miles of posts one could be sure of finding a bird or two in every strip of shadow; sometimes the sparrow and the hawk82, with wings trailed and beaks83 parted, drooping84 in the white truce85 of noon.
If one is inclined to wonder at first how so many dwellers came to be in the loneliest land that ever came out of God's hands, what they do there and why stay, one does not wonder so much after having lived there. None other than this long brown land lays such a hold on the affections. The rainbow hills, the tender bluish mists, the luminous86 radiance of the spring, have the lotus charm. They trick the sense of time, so that once inhabiting there you always mean to go away without quite realizing that you have not done it. Men who have lived there, miners and cattlemen, will tell you this, not so fluently, but emphatically, cursing the land and going back to it. For one thing there is the divinest, cleanest air to be breathed anywhere in God's world. Some day the world will understand that, and the little oases87 on the windy tops of hills will harbor for healing its ailing88, house-weary broods. There is promise there of great wealth in ores and earths, which is no wealth by reason of being so far removed from water and workable conditions, but men are bewitched by it and tempted89 to try the impossible.
You should hear Salty Williams tell how he used to drive eighteen and twenty-mule teams from the borax marsh to Mojave, ninety miles, with the trail wagon90 full of water barrels. Hot days the mules91 would go so mad for drink that the clank of the water bucket set them into an uproar92 of hideous93, maimed noises, and a tangle94 of harness chains, while Salty would sit on the high seat with the sun glare heavy in his eyes, dealing95 out curses of pacification96 in a level, uninterested voice until the clamor fell off from sheer exhaustion97. There was a line of shallow graves along that road; they used to count on dropping a man or two of every new gang of coolies brought out in the hot season. But when he lost his swamper, smitten98 without warning at the noon halt, Salty quit his job; he said it was "too durn hot." The swamper he buried by the way with stones upon him to keep the coyotes from digging him up, and seven years later I read the penciled lines on the pine head-board, still bright and unweathered.
But before that, driving up on the Mojave stage, I met Salty again crossing Indian Wells, his face from the high seat, tanned and ruddy as a harvest moon, looming99 through the golden dust above his eighteen mules. The land had called him.
The palpable sense of mystery in the desert air breeds fables100, chiefly of lost treasure. Somewhere within its stark borders, if one believes report, is a hill strewn with nuggets; one seamed with virgin101 silver; an old clayey water-bed where Indians scooped102 up earth to make cooking pots and shaped them reeking103 with grains of pure gold. Old miners drifting about the desert edges, weathered into the semblance104 of the tawny105 hills, will tell you tales like these convincingly. After a little sojourn106 in that land you will believe them on their own account. It is a question whether it is not better to be bitten by the little horned snake of the desert that goes sidewise and strikes without coiling, than by the tradition of a lost mine.
And yet—and yet—is it not perhaps to satisfy expectation that one falls into the tragic107 key in writing of desertness? The more you wish of it the more you get, and in the mean time lose much of pleasantness. In that country which begins at the foot of the east slope of the Sierras and spreads out by less and less lofty hill ranges toward the Great Basin, it is possible to live with great zest108, to have red blood and delicate joys, to pass and repass about one's daily performance an area that would make an Atlantic seaboard State, and that with no peril109, and, according to our way of thought, no particular difficulty. At any rate, it was not people who went into the desert merely to write it up who invented the fabled110 Hassaympa, of whose waters, if any drink, they can no more see fact as naked fact, but all radiant with the color of romance. I, who must have drunk of it in my twice seven years' wanderings, am assured that it is worth while.
For all the toll the desert takes of a man it gives compensations, deep breaths, deep sleep, and the communion of the stars. It comes upon one with new force in the pauses of the night that the Chaldeans were a desert-bred people. It is hard to escape the sense of mastery as the stars move in the wide clear heavens to risings and settings unobscured. They look large and near and palpitant; as if they moved on some stately service not needful to declare. Wheeling to their stations in the sky, they make the poor world-fret of no account. Of no account you who lie out there watching, nor the lean coyote that stands off in the scrub from you and howls and howls.
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1
chaos
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| n.混乱，无秩序 | |
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aspiring
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| adj.有志气的；有抱负的；高耸的v.渴望；追求 | |
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owl
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| n.猫头鹰，枭 | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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streaked
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| adj.有条斑纹的，不安的v.快速移动( streak的过去式和过去分词 )；使布满条纹 | |
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lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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rimmed
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| adj.有边缘的，有框的v.沿…边缘滚动；给…镶边 | |
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marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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vegetating
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| v.过单调呆板的生活( vegetate的现在分词 )；植物似地生长；（瘤、疣等）长大 | |
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hummocks
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| n.小丘，岗( hummock的名词复数 ) | |
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shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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shrub
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| n.灌木，灌木丛 | |
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redeeming
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| 补偿的，弥补的 | |
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brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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dribbles
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| n.涓滴( dribble的名词复数 )；细滴；少量（液体）v.流口水( dribble的第三人称单数 )；（使液体）滴下或作细流；运球，带球 | |
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16
tilted
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| v. 倾斜的 | |
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inevitably
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| adv.不可避免地；必然发生地 | |
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unbearable
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| adj.不能容忍的；忍受不住的 | |
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quiescent
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| adj.静止的，不活动的，寂静的 | |
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scant
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| adj.不充分的，不足的；v.减缩，限制，忽略 | |
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scanter
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| scant（不足的）的比较级形式 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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floras
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| n.（某地区或某时期的）植物群，植物区系，植物志( flora的名词复数 ) | |
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seasonal
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| adj.季节的，季节性的 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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tritely
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| adv.平凡地，陈腐地 | |
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attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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aridity
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| n.干旱，乏味；干燥性；荒芜 | |
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dwarfing
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| n.矮化病 | |
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comely
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| adj.漂亮的，合宜的 | |
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expedients
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| n.应急有效的，权宜之计的( expedient的名词复数 ) | |
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evaporation
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| n.蒸发，消失 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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exuding
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| v.缓慢流出，渗出，分泌出( exude的现在分词 )；流露出对（某物）的神态或感情 | |
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harries
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| n.使苦恼( harry的名词复数 )；不断烦扰；一再袭击；侵扰v.使苦恼( harry的第三人称单数 )；不断烦扰；一再袭击；侵扰 | |
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dunes
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| 沙丘( dune的名词复数 ) | |
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encompassing
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| v.围绕( encompass的现在分词 )；包围；包含；包括 | |
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twigs
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| 细枝，嫩枝( twig的名词复数 ) | |
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breakdown
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| n.垮，衰竭；损坏，故障，倒塌 | |
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toll
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| n.过路(桥)费；损失，伤亡人数；v.敲(钟) | |
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landmark
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| n.陆标，划时代的事，地界标 | |
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marshes
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| n.沼泽，湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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immortal
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| adj.不朽的；永生的，不死的；神的 | |
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45
fretted
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| 焦躁的，附有弦马的，腐蚀的 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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47
exudes
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| v.缓慢流出，渗出，分泌出( exude的第三人称单数 )；流露出对（某物）的神态或感情 | |
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48
resinous
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| adj.树脂的，树脂质的，树脂制的 | |
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49
pulverized
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| adj.[医]雾化的，粉末状的v.将…弄碎( pulverize的过去式和过去分词 )；将…弄成粉末或尘埃；摧毁；粉碎 | |
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50
shafts
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| n.轴( shaft的名词复数 )；（箭、高尔夫球棒等的）杆；通风井；一阵（疼痛、害怕等） | |
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51
virtues
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| 美德( virtue的名词复数 )； 德行； 优点； 长处 | |
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tormented
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| 饱受折磨的 | |
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drearily
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| 沉寂地，厌倦地，可怕地 | |
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54
triangular
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| adj.三角（形）的，三者间的 | |
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55
eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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bristles
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| 短而硬的毛发，刷子毛( bristle的名词复数 ) | |
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deftly
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| adv.灵巧地，熟练地，敏捷地 | |
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daggers
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| 匕首，短剑( dagger的名词复数 ) | |
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cacti
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| n.（复）仙人掌 | |
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sparseness
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| n.稀疏，稀少 | |
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preempted
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| v.先占( preempt的过去式和过去分词 )；取代；先取；先发制人 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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sage
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| n.圣人，哲人；adj.贤明的，明智的 | |
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64
scattering
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| n.[物]散射；散乱，分散；在媒介质中的散播adj.散乱的；分散在不同范围的；广泛扩散的；（选票）数量分散的v.散射(scatter的ing形式)；散布；驱散 | |
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prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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lizards
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| n.蜥蜴( lizard的名词复数 ) | |
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crevices
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| n.（尤指岩石的）裂缝，缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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hummingbirds
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| n.蜂鸟( hummingbird的名词复数 ) | |
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cactus
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| n.仙人掌 | |
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stark
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| adj.荒凉的；严酷的；完全的；adv.完全地 | |
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71
burrowing
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| v.挖掘（洞穴），挖洞( burrow的现在分词 )；翻寻 | |
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72
furry
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| adj.毛皮的；似毛皮的；毛皮制的 | |
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73
dart
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| v.猛冲，投掷；n.飞镖，猛冲 | |
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74
conning
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| v.诈骗，哄骗( con的现在分词 )；指挥操舵( conn的现在分词 ) | |
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75
furtive
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| adj.鬼鬼崇崇的，偷偷摸摸的 | |
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76
carrion
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| n.腐肉 | |
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77
dwellers
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| n.居民，居住者( dweller的名词复数 ) | |
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78
stifling
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| a.令人窒息的 | |
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79
antelope
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| n.羚羊；羚羊皮 | |
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80
drooped
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| 弯曲或下垂，发蔫( droop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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81
constrained
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| adj.束缚的,节制的 | |
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82
hawk
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| n.鹰，骗子；鹰派成员 | |
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83
beaks
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| n.鸟嘴( beak的名词复数 )；鹰钩嘴；尖鼻子；掌权者 | |
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84
drooping
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| adj. 下垂的，无力的 动词droop的现在分词 | |
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85
truce
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| n.休战，(争执，烦恼等的)缓和；v.以停战结束 | |
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86
luminous
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| adj.发光的，发亮的；光明的；明白易懂的；有启发的 | |
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87
oases
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| n.（沙漠中的）绿洲( oasis的名词复数 )；（困苦中）令人快慰的地方（或时刻）；乐土；乐事 | |
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88
ailing
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| v.生病 | |
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89
tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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90
wagon
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| n.四轮马车，手推车，面包车；无盖运货列车 | |
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91
mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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92
uproar
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| n.骚动，喧嚣，鼎沸 | |
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93
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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94
tangle
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| n.纠缠；缠结；混乱；v.(使)缠绕；变乱 | |
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95
dealing
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| n.经商方法，待人态度 | |
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96
pacification
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| n. 讲和，绥靖，平定 | |
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97
exhaustion
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| n.耗尽枯竭，疲惫，筋疲力尽，竭尽，详尽无遗的论述 | |
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98
smitten
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| 猛打，重击，打击( smite的过去分词 ) | |
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99
looming
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| n.上现蜃景（光通过低层大气发生异常折射形成的一种海市蜃楼）v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的现在分词 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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100
fables
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| n.寓言( fable的名词复数 )；神话，传说 | |
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101
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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102
scooped
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| v.抢先报道( scoop的过去式和过去分词 )；（敏捷地）抱起；抢先获得；用铲[勺]等挖（洞等） | |
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103
reeking
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| v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的现在分词 )；散发臭气；发出难闻的气味 (of sth)；明显带有（令人不快或生疑的跡象） | |
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104
semblance
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| n.外貌，外表 | |
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105
tawny
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| adj.茶色的，黄褐色的；n.黄褐色 | |
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106
sojourn
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| v./n.旅居，寄居；逗留 | |
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107
tragic
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| adj.悲剧的，悲剧性的，悲惨的 | |
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108
zest
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| n.乐趣；滋味，风味；兴趣 | |
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109
peril
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| n.(严重的)危险；危险的事物 | |
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110
fabled
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| adj.寓言中的，虚构的 | |
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