'Veiled in your mist, and diamonded with showers.'
Alfred Austin.
Shan Van Vocht Hotel,
Heart of Connemara.
Shan Van Vocht means in English the 'Poor Little Old Woman,' one of the many endearing names given to Ireland in the Gaelic. There is, too, a well-known rebel song called by this title--one which was not only written in Irish and English, but which was translated into French for the soldiers at Brest who were to invade Ireland under Hoche.
We had come from Knockcool, Donegal, to Westport, in County Mayo, and the day was enlivened by two purely1 Irish touches, one at the beginning and one at the end. We alighted at a certain railway junction2 to await our train, and were interested in a large detachment of soldiers--leaving for a long journey, we judged, by the number of railway carriages and the amount of luggage and stores. In every crowded compartment3 there were two or three men leaning out over the locked doors; for the guard was making ready to start. All were chatting gaily4 with their sweethearts, wives, and daughters, save one gloomy fellow sitting alone in a corner, searching the crowd with sad eyes for a wished-for face or a last greeting. The bell rang, the engine stirred; suddenly a pretty, rosy5 girl flew breathlessly down the platform, pushing her way through the groups of onlookers6. The man's eyes lighted; he rose to his feet, but the other fellows blocked the way; the door was locked, and he had but one precious moment. Still he was equal to the emergency, for he raised his fist and with one blow shattered the window, got his kiss, and the train rumbled7 away, with his victorious8 smile set in a frame of broken glass! I liked that man better than any one I've seen since Himself deserted9 me for his Duty! How I hope the pretty girl will be faithful, and how I hope that an ideal lover will not be shot in South Africa!
And if he was truly Irish, so was the porter at a little way station where we stopped in the dark, after being delayed interminably at Claremorris by some trifling10 accident. We were eight persons packed into a second-class carriage, and totally ignorant of our whereabouts; but the porter, opening the door hastily, shouted, "Is there anny one there for here?"--a question so vague and illogical that none of us said anything in reply, but simply gazed at one another, and then laughed as the train went on.
We are on a here-to-day-and-gone-to-morrow journey, determined12 to avoid the railways, and travel by private conveyance13 and the public 'long cars,' just for a glimpse of the Weeping West before we settle down quietly in County Meath for our last few weeks of Irish life.
Thus far it has been a pursuit of the picturesque14 under umbrellas; in fact, we're desthroyed wid the dint15 of the damp! 'Moist and agreeable--that's the Irish notion both for climate and company.' If the barometer16 bore any relation to the weather, we could plan our drives with more discretion17; but it sometimes remains18 as steady as a rock during two days of sea mist, and Francesca, finding it wholly regardless of gentle tapping, lost her temper on one occasion and rapped it so severely19 as to crack the glass. That this peculiarity20 of Irish barometers21 has been noted22 before we are sure, because of this verse written by a native bard:--
'When the glass is up to thirty,
Be sure the weather will be dirty.
When the glass is high, O very!
There'll be rain in Cork23 and Kerry.
When the glass is low, O Lork!
There'll be rain in Kerry and Cork!'
I might add:--
And when the glass has climbed its best,
The sky is weeping in the West.
The national rainbow is as deceitful as the barometer, and it is no uncommon24 thing for us to have half a dozen of them in a day, between heavy showers, like the smiles and tears of Irish character; though, to be sure, one does not need to be an Irish patriot25 to declare that a fine day in this country is worth three fine days anywhere else. The present weather is accounted for partially26 by the fact that, as Horace Walpole said, summer has set in with its usual severity, and the tourist is abroad in the land.
I am not sure but that we belong to the hated class for the moment, though at least we try to emulate27 tourist virtues28, if there are any, and avoid tourist vices29, which is next to impossible, as they are the fruit of the tour itself. It is the circular tour which, in its effect upon the great middle class, is the most virulent30 and contagious31, and which breeds the most offensive habits of thought and speech. The circular tour is a magnificent idea, a praiseworthy business scheme; it has educated the minds of millions and why it should have ruined their manners is a mystery, unless indeed they had none when they were at home. Some of our fellow-travellers with whom we originally started disappear every day or two, to join us again. We lose them temporarily when we take a private conveyance or when they stop at a cheap hotel, but we come altogether again on coach or long car; and although they have torn off many coupons33 in the interval34, their remaining stock seems to assure us of their society for days to come.
We have a Protestant clergyman who is travelling for his health, but beguiling35 his time by observations for a volume to be called The Relation between Priests and Pauperism36. It seems, at first thought, as if the circular coupon32 system were ill fitted to furnish him with corroborative37 detail; but inasmuch as every traveller finds in a country only, so to speak, what he brings to it, he will gather statistics enough. Those persons who start with a certain bias38 of mind in one direction seldom notice any facts that would throw out of joint39 those previously40 amassed41; they instinctively42 collect the ones that 'match,' all others having a tendency to disturb the harmony of the original scheme. The clergyman's travelling companion is a person who possesses not a single opinion, conviction, or trait in common with him; so we conclude that they joined forces for economy's sake. This comrade we call 'the man with the evergreen43 heart,' for we can hardly tell by his appearance whether he is an old young man or a young old one. With his hat on he is juvenile44; when he removes it, he is so distinctly elderly that we do not know whether to regard him as damaged youth or well-preserved old age; but he transfers his solicitous45 attentions to lady after lady, rebuffs not having the slightest effect upon his warm, susceptible46, ardent47 nature. We suppose that he is single, but we know that he can be married at a moment's notice by anybody who is willing to accept the risks of the situation. Then we have a nice schoolmaster, so agreeable that Salemina, Francesca, and I draw lots every evening as to who shall sit beside him next day. He has just had seventy boys down with measles48 at the same time, giving prizes to those who could show the best rash! Salemina is no friend to the competitive system in education, but this appealed to her as being as wise as it was whimsical.
We have also in our company an indiscreet and inflammable Irishman from Wexford and a cutler from Birmingham, who lose no opportunity to have a conversational49 scrimmage. When the car stops to change or water the horses (and as for this last operation, our steeds might always manage it without loss of time by keeping their mouths open), we generally hear something like this; for although the two gentlemen have never met before, they fight as if they had known each other all their lives.
Mr. Shamrock. "Faith, then, if you don't like the hotels and the railroads, go to Paris or London; we've done widout you up to now, and we can kape on doing widout you! We'd have more money to spind in entertainin' you if the government hadn't taken three million of pounds out of us to build fortifications in China."
Mr. Rose. "That's all bosh and nonsense; you wouldn't know how to manage an hotel if you had the money."
Mr. Shamrock. "If we can't make hotel-kapers, it's soldiers we can make; and be the same token you can't manage India or Canada widout our help! Faith, England owes Ireland more than she can pay, and it's not her business to be thravelin' round criticisin' the throubles she's helped to projuce."
Mr. Rose. "William Ewart Gladstone did enough for your island to make up for all the harm that the other statesmen may or may not have done."
Mr. Shamrock, touched in his most vulnerable point, shrieks50 above the rattle51 of the wheels: "The wurrst statesman that iver put his name to paper was William Ewart Gladstone!"
Mr. Rose. "The best, I say!"
Mr. Shamrock. "I say the wurrst!"
Mr. Rose. "The best!!"
Mr. Shamrock. "The wurrst!!"
Mr. Rose (after a pause). "It's your absentee landlords that have done the mischief52. I'd hang every one of them, if I had my way."
Mr. Shamrock. "Faith, they'd be absent thin, sure enough!"
And at this everybody laughs, and the trouble is over for a brief space, much to the relief of Mrs. Shamrock, until her husband finds himself, after a little, sufficiently53 calm to repeat a Cockney anecdote54, which is received by Mr. Rose in resentful silence, it being merely a description of the common bat, an unfortunate animal that, according to Mr. Shamrock, "'as no 'ole to 'ide in, no 'ands to 'old by, no 'orns to 'urt with, though Nature 'as given 'im 'ooks be'ind to 'itch55 'imself up by."
The last two noteworthy personages in our party are a dapper Frenchman, who is in business at Manchester, and a portly Londoner, both of whom are seeing Ireland for the first time. The Frenchman does not grumble56 at the weather, for he says that in Manchester it rains twice a day all the year round, save during the winter, when it commonly rains all day.
Sir James Paget, in an address on recreation, defined its chief element to be surprise. If that is true, the portly Londoner must be exhilarated beyond words. But with him the sensation does not stop with surprise: it speedily becomes amazement57, and then horror; for he is of the comparative type, and therefore sees things done and hears things said, on every hand, that are not said and done at all in the same way in London. He sees people--ay, and policemen--bicycling on footpaths58 and riding without lamps, and is horrified59 to learn that they are seldom, if ever, prosecuted60. He is shocked at the cabins, and the rocks, and the beggar children, and the lack of trees; at the lack of logic11, also, and the lack of shoes; at the prevalence of the brogue; above all, at the presence of the pig in the parlour. He is outraged61 at the weather, and he minds getting wet the more because he hates Irish whisky. He keeps a little notebook, and he can hardly wait for dinner to be over, he is so anxious to send a communication (probably signed 'Veritas') to the London Times.
The multiplicity of rocks and the absence of trees are indeed the two most striking features of the landscape; and yet Boate says, 'In ancient times as long as the land was in full possession of the Irish themselves, all Ireland was very full of woods on every side, as evidently appeareth by the writings of Giraldus Cambrensis.' But this was long ago,--
'Ere the emerald gem62 of the western world
Was set in the brow of a stranger.'
In the long wars with the English these forests were the favourite refuge of the natives, and it was a common saying that the Irish could never be tamed while the leaves were upon the trees. Then passages were cut through the woods, and the policy of felling them, as a military measure, was begun and carried forward on a gigantic scale in Elizabeth's reign63.
At one of the cabins along the road they were making great preparations, which we understood from having seen the same thing in Lisdara. There are wee villages and solitary64 cabins so far from chapel65 that the priests establish 'stations' for confession66. A certain house is selected, and all the old, infirm, and feeble ones come there to confess and hear Mass. The priest afterwards eats breakfast with the family; and there is great pride in this function, and great rivalry67 in the humble68 arrangements. Mrs. Odevaine often lends a linen69 cloth and flowers to one of her neighbours, she tells us; to another a knife and fork, or a silver teapot; and so on. This cabin was at the foot of a long hill, and the driver gave me permission to walk; so Francesca and I slipped down, I with a parcel which chanced to have in it some small purchases made at the last hotel. We asked if we might help a bit, and give a little teapot of Belleek ware70 and a linen doily trimmed with Irish lace. Both the articles were trumpery71 bits of souvenirs, but the old dame72 was inclined to think that the angels and saints had taken her in charge, and nothing could exceed her gratitude73. She offered us a potato from the pot, a cup of tea or goat's milk, and a bunch of wildflowers from a cracked cup; and this last we accepted as we departed in a shower of blessings75, the most interesting of them being, "May the Blessed Virgin76 twine77 your brow with roses when ye sit in the sates of glory!" and "The Lord be good to ye, and sind ye a duke for a husband!" We felt more than repaid for our impulsive78 interest, and as we disappeared from sight a last 'Bannact dea leat!' ('God's blessing74 be on your way!') was wafted79 to our ears.
I seem to have known all these people before, and indeed I have met them between the covers of a book; for Connemara has one prophet, and her name is Jane Barlow. In how many of these wild bog-lands of Connaught have we seen a huddle80 of desolate81 cabins on a rocky hillside, turf stacks looking darkly at the doors, and empty black pots sitting on the thresholds, and fancied we have found Lisconnel! I should recognise Ody Rafferty, the widow M'Gurk, Mad Bell, old Mrs. Kilfoyle, or Stacey Doyne, if I met them face to face, just as I should know other real human creatures of a higher type,--Beatrix Esmond, Becky Sharp, Meg Merrilies, or Di Vernon.
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1
purely
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| adv.纯粹地，完全地 | |
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junction
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| n.连接，接合；交叉点，接合处，枢纽站 | |
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compartment
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| n.卧车包房，隔间；分隔的空间 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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onlookers
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| n.旁观者，观看者( onlooker的名词复数 ) | |
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rumbled
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| 发出隆隆声，发出辘辘声( rumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 轰鸣着缓慢行进； 发现…的真相； 看穿（阴谋） | |
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8
victorious
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| adj.胜利的，得胜的 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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logic
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| n.逻辑(学)；逻辑性 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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conveyance
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| n.(不动产等的)转让，让与；转让证书；传送；运送；表达；（正）运输工具 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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dint
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| n.由于，靠；凹坑 | |
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barometer
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| n.气压表，睛雨表，反应指标 | |
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discretion
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| n.谨慎；随意处理 | |
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18
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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peculiarity
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| n.独特性，特色；特殊的东西；怪癖 | |
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barometers
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| 气压计，晴雨表( barometer的名词复数 ) | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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cork
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| n.软木，软木塞 | |
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uncommon
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| adj.罕见的，非凡的，不平常的 | |
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patriot
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| n.爱国者，爱国主义者 | |
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26
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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27
emulate
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| v.努力赶上或超越，与…竞争；效仿 | |
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28
virtues
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| 美德( virtue的名词复数 )； 德行； 优点； 长处 | |
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vices
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| 缺陷( vice的名词复数 )； 恶习； 不道德行为； 台钳 | |
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virulent
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| adj.有毒的，有恶意的，充满敌意的 | |
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contagious
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| adj.传染性的，有感染力的 | |
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coupon
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| n.息票，配给票，附单 | |
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coupons
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| n.礼券( coupon的名词复数 )；优惠券；订货单；参赛表 | |
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interval
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| n.间隔，间距；幕间休息，中场休息 | |
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beguiling
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| adj.欺骗的，诱人的v.欺骗( beguile的现在分词 )；使陶醉；使高兴；消磨（时间等） | |
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pauperism
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| n.有被救济的资格，贫困 | |
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corroborative
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| adj.确证（性）的，确凿的 | |
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bias
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| n.偏见，偏心，偏袒；vt.使有偏见 | |
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joint
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| adj.联合的，共同的；n.关节，接合处；v.连接，贴合 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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amassed
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| v.积累，积聚( amass的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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instinctively
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| adv.本能地 | |
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evergreen
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| n.常青树；adj.四季常青的 | |
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juvenile
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| n.青少年，少年读物；adj.青少年的，幼稚的 | |
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solicitous
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| adj.热切的，挂念的 | |
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susceptible
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| adj.过敏的，敏感的；易动感情的，易受感动的 | |
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ardent
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| adj.热情的，热烈的，强烈的，烈性的 | |
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measles
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| n.麻疹，风疹，包虫病，痧子 | |
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conversational
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| adj.对话的，会话的 | |
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shrieks
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| n.尖叫声( shriek的名词复数 )v.尖叫( shriek的第三人称单数 ) | |
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rattle
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| v.飞奔，碰响；激怒；n.碰撞声；拨浪鼓 | |
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mischief
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| n.损害，伤害，危害；恶作剧，捣蛋，胡闹 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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anecdote
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| n.轶事，趣闻，短故事 | |
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itch
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| n.痒，渴望，疥癣；vi.发痒，渴望 | |
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grumble
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| vi.抱怨；咕哝；n.抱怨，牢骚；咕哝，隆隆声 | |
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amazement
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| n.惊奇，惊讶 | |
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footpaths
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| 人行小径，人行道( footpath的名词复数 ) | |
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horrified
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| a.(表现出)恐惧的 | |
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prosecuted
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| a.被起诉的 | |
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outraged
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| a.震惊的，义愤填膺的 | |
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gem
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| n.宝石，珠宝；受爱戴的人 [同]jewel | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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confession
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| n.自白，供认，承认 | |
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rivalry
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| n.竞争，竞赛，对抗 | |
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humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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ware
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| n.(常用复数)商品，货物 | |
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trumpery
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| n.无价值的杂物；adj.（物品）中看不中用的 | |
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dame
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| n.女士 | |
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gratitude
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| adj.感激，感谢 | |
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blessing
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| n.祈神赐福；祷告；祝福，祝愿 | |
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blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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twine
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| v.搓，织，编饰；（使）缠绕 | |
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impulsive
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| adj.冲动的，刺激的；有推动力的 | |
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wafted
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| v.吹送，飘送，（使）浮动( waft的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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huddle
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| vi.挤作一团；蜷缩；vt.聚集；n.挤在一起的人 | |
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81
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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