'Mud cabins swarm1 in
This place so charming,
With sailor garments
Hung out to dry;
And each abode2 is
Snug3 and commodious4,
With pigs melodious5
In their straw-built sty.'
Father Prout.
'"Did the Irish elves ever explain themselves to you, Red Rose?"
'"I can't say that they did," said the English Elf. "You can't call it an explanation to say that a thing has always been that way, just: or that a thing would be a heap more bother any other way."'
The west of Ireland is depressing, but it is very beautiful; at least if your taste includes an appreciation6 of what is wild, magnificent, and sombre. Oppressed you must be, even if you are an artist, by its bleakness7 and its dreariness8, its lonely lakes reflecting a dull, grey sky, its desolate9 boglands, its solitary11 chapels12, its wretched cabins perched on hillsides that are very wildernesses14 of rocks. But for cloud effects, for wonderful shadows, for fantastic and unbelievable sunsets, when the mountains are violet, the lakes silver with red flashes, the islets gold and crimson15 and purple, and the whole cloudy west in a flame, it is unsurpassed; only your standard of beauty must not be a velvet16 lawn studded with copper17 beeches18, or a primary-hued landscape bathed in American sunshine. Connemara is austere20 and gloomy under a dull sky, but it has the poetic21 charm that belongs to all mystery, and its bare cliffs and ridges22 are delicately pencilled on a violet background, in a way peculiar23 to itself and enchantingly lovely.
The waste of all God's gifts; the incredible poverty; the miserable24 huts, often without window or chimney; the sad-eyed women, sometimes nothing but 'skins, bones, and grief'; the wild, beautiful children, springing up like startled deer from behind piles of rocks or growths of underbrush; the stony25 little bits of earth which the peasants cling to with such passion, while good grasslands26 lie unused, yet seem for ever out of reach,--all this makes one dream, and wonder, and speculate, and hope against hope that the worst is over and a better day dawning. We passed within sight of a hill village without a single road to connect it with the outer world. The only supply of turf was on the mountain-top, and from thence it had to be brought, basket by basket, even in the snow. The only manure27 for such land is seaweed, and that must be carried from the shore to the tiny plats of sterile28 earth on the hillside. I remember it all, for I refused to buy a pair of stockings of a woman along the road. We had taken so many that my courage failed; but I saw her climbing the slopes patiently, wearily, a shawl over her white hair,--knitting, knitting, knitting, as she walked in the rain to her cabin somewhere behind the high hills. We never give to beggars in any case, but we buy whatever we can as we are able; and why did I draw the line at that particular pair of stockings, only to be haunted by that pathetic figure for the rest of my life? Beggars there are by the score, chiefly in the tourist districts; but it is only fair to add that there are hundreds of huts where it would be a dire29 insult to offer a penny for a glass of water, a sup of milk, or the shelter of a turf fire.
As we drive along the road, we see, if the umbrellas can be closed for a half-hour, flocks of sheep grazing on the tops of the hills, where it is sunnier, where food is better and flies less numerous. Crystal streams and waterfalls are pouring down the hillsides to lose themselves in one of Connemara's many bays, and we have a glimpse of osmunda fern, golden green and beautiful. It was under a branch of this Osmunda regalis that the Irish princess lay hidden, they say, till she had evaded30 her pursuers. The blue turf smoke rises here and there,--now from a cabin with house-leek growing on the crumbling31 thatch32, now from one whose roof is held on by ropes and stones,--and there is always a turf bog10, stacks and stacks of the cut blocks, a woman in a gown of dark-red flannel33 resting for a moment, with the empty creel beside her, and a man cutting in the distance. After climbing the long hill beyond the 'station' we are rewarded by a glimpse of more fertile fields; the clumps34 of ragwort and purple loosestrife are reinforced with kingcups and lilies growing near the wayside, and the rare sight, first of a pot of geraniums in the window, and then of a garden all aglow35 with red fuchsias, torch plants, and huge dahlias, so cheers Veritas that he takes heart again. "This is something like home!" he exclaims breezily; whereupon Mr. Shamrock murmurs36 that if people find nothing to admire in a foreign country save what resembles their own, he wonders that they take the trouble to be travelling.
"It is a darlin' year for the pitaties," the drivers says; and there are plenty of them planted hereabouts, even in stony spots not worth a keenogue for anything else, for "pitaties doesn't require anny inTHRICKet farmin', you see, ma'am."
The clergyman remarks that only three things are required to make Ireland the most attractive country in the world: "Protestantism, cleanliness, and gardens"; and Mr. Shamrock, who is of course a Roman Catholic, answers this tactful speech in a way that surprises the speaker and keeps him silent for hours.
The Birmingham cutler, who has a copy of Ismay's Children in his pocket, triumphantly37 reads aloud, at this moment, a remark put into the mouth of an Irish character: "The low Irish are quite destitute38 of all notion of beauty,--have not the remotest particle of artistic39 sentiment or taste; their cabins are exactly as they were six hundred years ago, for they never want to improve themselves."
Then Mr. Shamrock asserts that any show of prosperity on a tenant's part would only mean an advance of rent on the landlord's; and Mr. Rose retorts that while that might have been true in former times, it is utterly40 false to-day.
Mrs. Shamrock, who is a natural apologist, pleads that the Irish gentry41 have the most beautiful gardens in the world and the greatest natural taste in gardening, and there must be some reason why the lower classes are so different in this respect. May it not be due partly to lack of ground, lack of money to spend on seeds and fertilisers, lack of all refining, civilising and educating influences? Mr. Shamrock adds that the dwellers42 in cabins cannot successfully train creepers against the walls or flowers in the dooryard, because of the goat, pig, donkey, ducks, hens, and chickens; and Veritas asks triumphantly, "Why don't you keep the pig in a sty, then?"
The man with the evergreen43 heart (who has already been told this morning that I am happily married, Francesca engaged, Salemina a determined44 celibate45, but Benella quite at liberty) peeps under Salemina's umbrella at this juncture46, and says tenderly, "And what do you think about these vexed47 questions, dear madam?" Which gives her a chance to reply with some distinctness, "I shall not know what I think for several months to come; and at any rate there are various things more needed on this coach than opinions."
At this the Frenchman murmurs, "Ah, she has right!" and the Birmingham cutler says, "'Ear! 'ear!"
On another day the parson began to tell the man with the evergreen heart some interesting things about America. He had never been there himself, but he had a cousin who had travelled extensively in that country, and had brought back much unusual information. "The Americans are an extraordinary people on the practical side," he remarked; "but having said that, you have said all, for they are sordid48, and absolutely devoid49 of ideality. Take an American at his roller-top desk, a telephone at one side and a typewriter at the other, talk to him of pork and dollars, and you have him at his very best. He always keeps on his Panama hat at business, and sits in a rocking-chair smoking a long cigar. The American woman wears a blue dress with a red lining50, or a black dress with orange trimmings, showing a survival of African taste; while another exhibits the American-Indian type,--sallow, with high cheekbones. The manners of the servant classes are extraordinary. I believe they are called 'the help,' and they commonly sit in the drawing-room after the work is finished."
"You surprise me!" said Mrs. Shamrock.
"It is indeed amazing," he continued; "and there are other extraordinary customs, among them the habit of mixing ices with all beverages51. They plunge52 ices into mugs of ale, beer, porter, lemonade, or Apollinaris, and sip53 the mixture with a long ladle at the chemist's counter, where it is usually served."
"You surprise me!" exclaimed the cutler.
"You surprise me too!" I echoed in my inmost heart. Francesca would not have confined herself to that blameless mode of expression, you may be sure, and I was glad that she was on the back seat of the car. I did not know it at the time, but Veritas, who is a man of intelligence, had identified her as an American, and wishing to inform himself on all possible points, had asked her frankly54 why it was that the people of her nation gave him the impression of never being restful or quiet, but always so excessively and abnormally quick in motion and speech and thought.
"Casual impressions are not worth anything," she replied nonchalantly. "As a nation, you might sometimes give us the impression of being phlegmatic55 and slow-witted. Both ideas may have some basis of fact, yet not be absolutely true. We are not all abnormally quick in America. Look at our messenger boys, for example."
"We! Phlegmatic and slow-witted!" exclaimed Veritas. "You surprise me! And why do you not reward these government messengers for speed, and stimulate56 them in that way?"
"We do," Francesca answered; "that is the only way in which we ever get them to arrive anywhere--by rewarding and stimulating57 them at both ends of the journey, and sometimes, in extreme cases, at a halfway58 station."
"This is most interesting," said Veritas, as he took out his damp notebook; "and perhaps you can tell me why your newspapers are so poorly edited, so cheap, so sensational59?"
"I confess I can't explain it," she sighed, as if sorely puzzled. "Can it be that we have expended60 our strength on magazines, where you are so lamentably61 weak?"
At this moment the rain began as if there had been a long drought and the sky had just determined to make up the deficiency. It fell in sheets, and the wind blew I know not how many Irish miles an hour. The Frenchman put on a silk macintosh with a cape19, and was berated62 by everybody in the same seat because he stood up a moment and let the water in under the lap covers. His umbrella was a dainty en-tout-cas with a mother-of-pearl handle, that had answered well enough in heavy mist or soft drizzle63. His hat of fine straw was tied with a neat cord to his buttonhole; but although that precaution insured its ultimate safety, it did not prevent its soaring from his head and descending65 on Mrs. Shamrock's bonnet66. He conscientiously67 tried holding it on with one hand, but was then reproved by both neighbours because his macintosh dripped over them.
"How are your spirits, Frenchy?" asked the cutler jocosely68.
"I am not too greatly sad," said the poor gentleman, "but I will be glad it should be finished; far more joyfully70 would I be at Manchester, triste as it may be."
Just then a gust71 of wind blew his cape over his head and snapped his parasol.
"It is evidently it has been made in Ireland," he sighed, with a desperate attempt at gaiety. "It should have had a grosser stem, and helas! it must not be easy to have it mended in these barbarous veelages."
We stopped at four o'clock at a wayside hostelry, and I had quietly made up my mind to descend64 from the car, and take rooms for the night, whatever the place might be. Unfortunately, the same idea occurred to three or four of the soaked travellers; and as men could leap down, while ladies must wait for the steps, the chivalrous72 sex, their manners obscured by the circular tour system, secured the rooms, and I was obliged to ascend73 again, wetter than ever, to my perch13 beside the driver.
"Can I get the box seat, do you think, if I pay extra for it?" I had asked one of the stablemen before breakfast.
"You don't need to be payin', miss! Just confront the driver, and you'll get it aisy!" If, by the way, I had confronted him at the end instead of at the beginning of the journey, my charms certainly would not have been all-powerful, for my coat had been leaked upon by red and green umbrellas, my hat was a shapeless jelly, and my face imprinted74 with the spots from a drenched75 blue veil.
After two hours more of this we reached the Shan Van Vocht Hotel, where we had engaged apartments; but we found to our consternation76 that it was full, and that we had been put in lodgings77 a half-mile away.
Salemina, whose patience was quite exhausted78 by the discomforts79 of the day, groaned80 aloud when we were deposited at the door of a village shop, and ushered81 upstairs to our tiny quarters; but she ceased abruptly82 when she really took note of our surroundings. Everything was humble83, but clean and shining--glass, crockery, bedding, floor, on the which we were dripping pools of water, while our landlady's daughter tried to make us more comfortable.
"It's a soft night we're havin'," she said, in a dove's voice, "but we'll do right enough if the win' doesn't rise up on us."
Left to ourselves, we walked about the wee rooms on ever new and more joyful69 voyages of discovery. The curtains rolled up and down easily; the windows were propped84 upon nice clean sticks instead of tennis rackets and hearth85 brushes; there was a well-washed stone to keep the curtain down on the sill; and just outside were tiny window gardens, in each of which grew three marigolds and three asters, in a box fenced about with little green pickets86. There were well-dusted books on the tables, and Francesca wanted to sit down immediately to The Charming Cora, reprinted from The Girl's Own Paper. Salemina meantime had tempted87 fate by looking under the bed, where she found the floor so exquisitely88 neat that she patted it affectionately with her hand.
We had scarcely donned our dry clothing when the hotel proprietor89 sent a jaunting-car for our drive to the seven-o'clock table d'hote dinner. We carefully avoided our travelling companions that night, but learned the next morning that the Frenchman had slept on four chairs, and rejected the hotel coffee with the remark that it was not 'veritable'--a criticism in which he was quite justified90. Our comparative Englishman had occupied a cot in a room where the tin bathtubs were kept. He was writing to The Times at the moment of telling me his woes91, and, without seeing the letter, I could divine his impassioned advice never to travel in the west of Ireland in rainy weather. He remarked (as if quoting from his own communication) that the scenery was magnificent, but that there was an entirely92 insufficient93 supply of hot water; that the waiters had the appearance of being low comedians94, and their service was of the character one might expect from that description; that he had been talking before breakfast with a German gentleman, who had sat on a wall opposite the village of Dugort, in the island of Achill, from six o'clock in the morning until nine, and in that time he had seen coming out of an Irish hut three geese, eight goslings, six hens, fifteen chickens, two pigs, two cows, two barefooted girls, the master of the house leading a horse, three small children carrying cloth bags filled with school-books, and finally a strapping95 mother leading a donkey loaded with peat-baskets; that all this poverty and ignorance and indolence and filth96 was spoiling his holiday; and finally, that if he should be as greatly disappointed in the fishing as he had been in the hotel accommodations--here we almost fainted from suspense--he should be obliged to go home! And not only that, but he should feel it his duty to warn others of what they might expect.
"Perhaps you are justified," said Francesca sympathetically. "People who are used to the dry, sunny climate and the clear atmosphere of London ought not to expose themselves to Irish rain without due consideration."
He agreed with her, glancing over his spectacles to see if she by any possibility could be amusing herself at his expense--good, old, fussy97, fault-finding Veritas; but indeed Francesca's eyes were so soft and lovely and honest that the more he looked at her, the less he could do her the injustice98 of suspecting her sincerity99.
But mind you, although I would never confess it to Veritas, because he sees nothing but flaws on every side, the Irish pig is, to my taste, a trifle too much in the foreground. He pays the rent, no doubt; but this magnificent achievement could be managed from a sty in the rear, ungrateful as it might seem to immure100 so useful a personage behind a door or conceal101 his virtues102 from the public at large.
1 swarm | |
n.(昆虫)等一大群;vi.成群飞舞;蜂拥而入 | |
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2 abode | |
n.住处,住所 | |
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3 snug | |
adj.温暖舒适的,合身的,安全的;v.使整洁干净,舒适地依靠,紧贴;n.(英)酒吧里的私房 | |
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4 commodious | |
adj.宽敞的;使用方便的 | |
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5 melodious | |
adj.旋律美妙的,调子优美的,音乐性的 | |
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6 appreciation | |
n.评价;欣赏;感谢;领会,理解;价格上涨 | |
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7 bleakness | |
adj. 萧瑟的, 严寒的, 阴郁的 | |
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8 dreariness | |
沉寂,可怕,凄凉 | |
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9 desolate | |
adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
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10 bog | |
n.沼泽;室...陷入泥淖 | |
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11 solitary | |
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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12 chapels | |
n.小教堂, (医院、监狱等的)附属礼拜堂( chapel的名词复数 );(在小教堂和附属礼拜堂举行的)礼拜仪式 | |
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13 perch | |
n.栖木,高位,杆;v.栖息,就位,位于 | |
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14 wildernesses | |
荒野( wilderness的名词复数 ); 沙漠; (政治家)在野; 不再当政(或掌权) | |
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15 crimson | |
n./adj.深(绯)红色(的);vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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16 velvet | |
n.丝绒,天鹅绒;adj.丝绒制的,柔软的 | |
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17 copper | |
n.铜;铜币;铜器;adj.铜(制)的;(紫)铜色的 | |
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18 beeches | |
n.山毛榉( beech的名词复数 );山毛榉木材 | |
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19 cape | |
n.海角,岬;披肩,短披风 | |
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20 austere | |
adj.艰苦的;朴素的,朴实无华的;严峻的 | |
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21 poetic | |
adj.富有诗意的,有诗人气质的,善于抒情的 | |
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22 ridges | |
n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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23 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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24 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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25 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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26 grasslands | |
n.草原,牧场( grassland的名词复数 ) | |
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27 manure | |
n.粪,肥,肥粒;vt.施肥 | |
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28 sterile | |
adj.不毛的,不孕的,无菌的,枯燥的,贫瘠的 | |
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29 dire | |
adj.可怕的,悲惨的,阴惨的,极端的 | |
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30 evaded | |
逃避( evade的过去式和过去分词 ); 避开; 回避; 想不出 | |
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31 crumbling | |
adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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32 thatch | |
vt.用茅草覆盖…的顶部;n.茅草(屋) | |
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33 flannel | |
n.法兰绒;法兰绒衣服 | |
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34 clumps | |
n.(树、灌木、植物等的)丛、簇( clump的名词复数 );(土、泥等)团;块;笨重的脚步声v.(树、灌木、植物等的)丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 );(土、泥等)团;块;笨重的脚步声 | |
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35 aglow | |
adj.发亮的;发红的;adv.发亮地 | |
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36 murmurs | |
n.低沉、连续而不清的声音( murmur的名词复数 );低语声;怨言;嘀咕 | |
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37 triumphantly | |
ad.得意洋洋地;得胜地;成功地 | |
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38 destitute | |
adj.缺乏的;穷困的 | |
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39 artistic | |
adj.艺术(家)的,美术(家)的;善于艺术创作的 | |
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40 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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41 gentry | |
n.绅士阶级,上层阶级 | |
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42 dwellers | |
n.居民,居住者( dweller的名词复数 ) | |
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43 evergreen | |
n.常青树;adj.四季常青的 | |
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44 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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45 celibate | |
adj.独身的,独身主义的;n.独身者 | |
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46 juncture | |
n.时刻,关键时刻,紧要关头 | |
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47 vexed | |
adj.争论不休的;(指问题等)棘手的;争论不休的问题;烦恼的v.使烦恼( vex的过去式和过去分词 );使苦恼;使生气;详细讨论 | |
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48 sordid | |
adj.肮脏的,不干净的,卑鄙的,暗淡的 | |
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49 devoid | |
adj.全无的,缺乏的 | |
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50 lining | |
n.衬里,衬料 | |
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51 beverages | |
n.饮料( beverage的名词复数 ) | |
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52 plunge | |
v.跳入,(使)投入,(使)陷入;猛冲 | |
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53 sip | |
v.小口地喝,抿,呷;n.一小口的量 | |
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54 frankly | |
adv.坦白地,直率地;坦率地说 | |
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55 phlegmatic | |
adj.冷静的,冷淡的,冷漠的,无活力的 | |
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56 stimulate | |
vt.刺激,使兴奋;激励,使…振奋 | |
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57 stimulating | |
adj.有启发性的,能激发人思考的 | |
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58 halfway | |
adj.中途的,不彻底的,部分的;adv.半路地,在中途,在半途 | |
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59 sensational | |
adj.使人感动的,非常好的,轰动的,耸人听闻的 | |
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60 expended | |
v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 );使用(钱等)做某事;用光;耗尽 | |
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61 lamentably | |
adv.哀伤地,拙劣地 | |
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62 berated | |
v.严厉责备,痛斥( berate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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63 drizzle | |
v.下毛毛雨;n.毛毛雨,蒙蒙细雨 | |
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64 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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65 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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66 bonnet | |
n.无边女帽;童帽 | |
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67 conscientiously | |
adv.凭良心地;认真地,负责尽职地;老老实实 | |
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68 jocosely | |
adv.说玩笑地,诙谐地 | |
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69 joyful | |
adj.欢乐的,令人欢欣的 | |
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70 joyfully | |
adv. 喜悦地, 高兴地 | |
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71 gust | |
n.阵风,突然一阵(雨、烟等),(感情的)迸发 | |
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72 chivalrous | |
adj.武士精神的;对女人彬彬有礼的 | |
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73 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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74 imprinted | |
v.盖印(imprint的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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75 drenched | |
adj.湿透的;充满的v.使湿透( drench的过去式和过去分词 );在某人(某物)上大量使用(某液体) | |
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76 consternation | |
n.大为吃惊,惊骇 | |
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77 lodgings | |
n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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78 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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79 discomforts | |
n.不舒适( discomfort的名词复数 );不愉快,苦恼 | |
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80 groaned | |
v.呻吟( groan的过去式和过去分词 );发牢骚;抱怨;受苦 | |
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81 ushered | |
v.引,领,陪同( usher的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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82 abruptly | |
adv.突然地,出其不意地 | |
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83 humble | |
adj.谦卑的,恭顺的;地位低下的;v.降低,贬低 | |
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84 propped | |
支撑,支持,维持( prop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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85 hearth | |
n.壁炉炉床,壁炉地面 | |
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86 pickets | |
罢工纠察员( picket的名词复数 ) | |
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87 tempted | |
v.怂恿(某人)干不正当的事;冒…的险(tempt的过去分词) | |
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88 exquisitely | |
adv.精致地;强烈地;剧烈地;异常地 | |
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89 proprietor | |
n.所有人;业主;经营者 | |
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90 justified | |
a.正当的,有理的 | |
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91 woes | |
困境( woe的名词复数 ); 悲伤; 我好苦哇; 某人就要倒霉 | |
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92 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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93 insufficient | |
adj.(for,of)不足的,不够的 | |
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94 comedians | |
n.喜剧演员,丑角( comedian的名词复数 ) | |
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95 strapping | |
adj. 魁伟的, 身材高大健壮的 n. 皮绳或皮带的材料, 裹伤胶带, 皮鞭 动词strap的现在分词形式 | |
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96 filth | |
n.肮脏,污物,污秽;淫猥 | |
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97 fussy | |
adj.为琐事担忧的,过分装饰的,爱挑剔的 | |
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98 injustice | |
n.非正义,不公正,不公平,侵犯(别人的)权利 | |
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99 sincerity | |
n.真诚,诚意;真实 | |
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100 immure | |
v.囚禁,幽禁 | |
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101 conceal | |
v.隐藏,隐瞒,隐蔽 | |
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102 virtues | |
美德( virtue的名词复数 ); 德行; 优点; 长处 | |
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