The weather was bleak1 and disagreeable during the two days we were obliged to remain at Wheeling. I had got heartily2 tired of my gifted friend; we had walked up every side of the rugged3 hill, and I set off on my journey towards the mountains with more pleasure than is generally felt in quitting a pillow before daylight, for a cold corner in a rumbling4 stage-coach.
This was the first time we had got into an American stage, though we had traversed above two thousand miles of the country, and we had all the satisfaction in it, which could be derived5 from the conviction that we were travelling in a foreign land. This vehicle had no step, and we climbed into it by a ladder; when that was removed I remembered, with some dismay, that the females at least were much in the predicament of sailors, who, “in danger have no door to creep out,” but when a misfortune is absolutely inevitable6, we are apt to bear it remarkably7 well; who would utter that constant petition of ladies on rough roads, “let me get out,” when compliance8 would oblige the pleader to make a step of five feet before she could touch the ground?
The coach had three rows of seats, each calculated to hold three persons, and as we were only six, we had, in the phrase of Milton, to “inhabit lax” this exalted9 abode10, and, accordingly, we were for some miles tossed about like a few potatoes in a wheelbarrow. Our knees, elbows, and heads required too much care for their protection to allow us leisure to look out of the windows; but at length the road became smoother, and we became more skilful11 in the art of balancing ourselves, so as to meet the concussion12 with less danger of dislocation.
We then found that we were travelling through a very beautiful country, essentially13 different in its features from what we had been accustomed to round Cincinnati: it is true we had left “la belle14 riviere” behind us, but the many limpid15 and rapid little streams that danced through the landscape to join it, more than atoned16 for its loss.
The country already wore an air of more careful husbandry, and the very circumstance of a wide and costly17 road (though not a very smooth one), which in theory might be supposed to injure picturesque18 effect, was beautiful to us, who, since we had entered the muddy mouth of the Mississippi, had never seen any thing except a steam-boat and the levee professing19 to have so noble an object as public accommodation. Through the whole of the vast region we had passed, excepting at New Orleans itself, every trace of the art of man appeared to be confined to the individual effort of “getting along,” which, in western phrase, means contriving20 to live with as small a portion of the incumbrances of civilized21 society as possible.
This road was made at the expense of the government as far as Cumberland, a town situated22 among the Alleghany mountains, and, from the nature of the ground, must have been a work of great cost. I regretted not having counted the number of bridges between Wheeling and Little Washington, a distance of thirty-four miles; over one stream only there are twenty-five, all passed by the road. They frequently occurred within a hundred yards of each other, so serpentine25 is its course; they are built of stone, and sometimes very neatly26 finished.
Little Washington is in Pennsylvania, across a corner of which the road runs. This is a free state, but we were still waited upon by Negroes, hired from the neighbouring state of Virginia. We arrived at night, and set off again at four in the morning; all, therefore, that we saw of Little Washington was its hotel, which was clean and comfortable. The first part of the next day’s journey was through a country much less interesting: its character was unvaried for nearly thirty miles, consisting of an uninterrupted succession of forest-covered hills. As soon as we had wearily dragged to the top of one of these, we began to rumble27 down the other side as rapidly as our four horses could trot28; and no sooner arrived at the bottom than we began to crawl up again; the trees constantly so thick and so high as to preclude29 the possibility of seeing fifty yards in any direction.
The latter part of the day, however, amply repaid us. At four o’clock we began to ascend30 the Alleghany mountains: the first ridge23 on the western side is called Laurel Hill, and takes its name from the profuse31 quantity of evergreens32 with which it is covered; not any among them, however, being the shrub33 to which we give the name of laurel.
The whole of this mountain region, through ninety miles of which the road passes, is a garden. The almost incredible variety of plants, and the lavish34 profusion35 of their growth, produce an effect perfectly36 enchanting37. I really can hardly conceive a higher enjoyment38 than a botanical tour among the Alleghany mountains, to any one who had science enough to profit by it.
The magnificent rhododendron first caught our eyes; it fringes every cliff, nestles beneath every rock, and blooms around every tree. The azalia, the shumac, and every variety of that beautiful mischief39, the kalmia, are in equal profusion. Cedars41 of every size and form were above, around, and underneath42 us; firs more beautiful and more various than I had ever seen, were in equal abundance, but I know not whether they were really such as I had never seen in Europe, or only in infinitely43 greater splendour and perfection of growth; the species called the hemlock44 is, I think, second to the cedar40 only, in magnificence. Oak and beech45, with innumerable roses and wild vines, hanging in beautiful confusion among their branches, were in many places scattered46 among the evergreens. The earth was carpeted with various mosses47 and creeping plants, and though still in the month of March, not a trace of the nakedness of winter could be seen. Such was the scenery that shewed us we were indeed among the far-famed Alleghany mountains.
As our noble terrace-road, the Semplon of America, rose higher and higher, all that is noblest in nature was joined to all that is sweetest. The blue tops of the higher ridges24 formed the outline; huge masses of rock rose above us on the left, half hid at intervals48 by the bright green shrubs49, while to the right we looked down upon the tops of the pines and cedars which clothed the bottom.
I had no idea of the endless variety of mountain scenery. My notions had been of rocks and precipices50, of torrents51 and of forest trees, but I little expected that the first spot which should recall the garden scenery of our beautiful England would be found among the moutains: yet so it was. From the time I entered America I had never seen the slightest approach to what we call pleasure-grounds; a few very worthless and scentless52 flowers were all the specimens53 of gardening I had seen in Ohio; no attempt at garden scenery was ever dreamed of, and it was with the sort of delight with which one meets an old friend, that we looked on the lovely mixture of trees, shrubs, and flowers, that now continually met our eyes. Often, on descending54 into the narrow vallies, we found a little spot of cultivation55, a garden or a field, hedged round with shumacs, rhododendrons, and azalias, and a cottage covered with roses. These vallies are spots of great beauty; a clear stream is always found running through them, which is generally converted to the use of the miller56, at some point not far from the road; and here, as on the heights, great beauty of colouring is given to the landscape, by the bright hue57 of the vegetation, and the sober grey of the rocks.
The first night we passed among the mountains recalled us painfully from the enjoyment of nature to all the petty miseries59 of personal discomfort60. Arrived at our inn, a forlorn parlour, filled with the blended fumes61 of tobacco and whiskey, received us; and chilled, as we began to feel ourselves with the mountain air, we preferred going to our cold bedrooms rather than sup in such an atmosphere. We found linen62 on the beds which they assured us had only been used a few nights; every kind of refreshment63 we asked for we were answered, “We do not happen to have that article.” We were still in Pennsylvania, and no longer waited upon by slaves; it was, therefore, with great difficulty that we procured64 a fire in our bedrooms from the surly-looking young lady who condescended65 to officiate as chambermaid, and with much more, that we extorted66 clean linen for our beds; that done, we patiently crept into them supperless, while she made her exit muttering about the difficulty of “fixing English folks.”
The next morning cheered our spirits again; we now enjoyed a new kind of alpine67 witchery; the clouds were floating around, and below us, and the distant peaks were indistinctly visible as through a white gauze veil, which was gradually lifted up, till the sun arose, and again let in upon us the full glory of these interminable heights.
We were told before we began the ascent68, that we should find snow four inches deep on the road; but as yet we had seen none, and indeed it was with difficulty we persuaded ourselves that we were not travelling in the midst of summer. As we proceeded, however, we found the northern declivities still covered with it, and at length, towards the summit, the road itself had the promised four inches. The extreme mildness of the air, and the brilliant hue of the evergreens, contrasted strangely with this appearance of winter; it was difficult to understand how the snow could help melting in such an atmosphere.
Again and again we enjoyed all the exhilarating sensations that such scenes must necessarily inspire, but in attempting a continued description of our progress over these beautiful mountains, I could only tell again of rocks, cedars, laurels69, and running streams, of blue heights, and green vallies, yet the continually varying combinations of these objects afforded us unceasing pleasure. From one point, pre-eminently above any neighbouring ridge, we looked back upon the enormous valley of the West. It is a stupendous view; but having gazed upon it for some moments, we turned to pursue our course, and the certainty that we should see it no more, raised no sigh of regret.
We dined, on the second day, at a beautiful spot, which we were told was the highest point on the road, being 2,846 feet above the level of the sea. We were regaled luxuriously70 on wild turkey and mountain venison; which latter is infinitely superior to any furnished by the forests of the Mississippi, or the Ohio. The vegetables also were extremely fine, and we were told by a pretty girl, who superintended the slaves that waited on us, (for we were again in Virginia), that the vegetables of the Alleghany were reckoned the finest in America. She told us also, that wild strawberries were profusely71 abundant, and very fine; that their cows found for themselves, during the summer, plenty of flowery food, which produced a copious72 supply of milk; that their spring gave them the purest water, of icy coldness in the warmest seasons; and that the climate was the most delicious in the world, for though the thermometer sometimes stood at ninety, their cool breeze never failed them. What a spot to turn hermit74 in for a summer! My eloquent75 mountaineer gave me some specimens of ground plants, far unlike any thing I had ever seen. One particularly, which she called the ground pine, is peculiar76 as she told me, to the Alleghany, and in some places runs over whole acres of ground; it is extremely beautiful. The rooms were very prettily77 decorated with this elegant plant, hung round it in festoons.
In many places the clearing has been considerable; the road passes through several fine farms, situated in the sheltered hollows; we were told that the wolves continue to annoy them severely78, but that panthers, the terror of the West, are never seen, and bears very rarely. Of snakes, they confessed they had abundance, but very few that were considered dangerous.
In the afternoon we came in sight of the Monongehala river; and its banks gave us for several miles a beautiful succession of wild and domestic scenery. In some points, the black rock rises perpendicularly79 from its margin80, like those at Chepstow; at others, a mill, with its owner’s cottage, its corn-plat, and its poultry81, present a delightful82 image of industry and comfort.
Brownsville is a busy looking little town built upon the banks of this river; it would be pretty, were it not stained by the hue of coal. I do not remember in England to have seen any spot, however near a coal mine, so dyed in black as Wheeling and Brownsville. At this place we crossed the Monongehala, in a flat ferry-boat, which very commodiously83 received our huge coach and four horses.
On leaving the black little town, we were again cheered by abundance of evergreens, reflected in the stream, with fantastic piles of rock, half visible through the pines and cedars above, giving often the idea of a vast gothic castle. It was a folly84, I confess, but I often lamented85 they were not such; the travelling for thousands of miles, without meeting any nobler trace of the ages that are passed, than a mass of rotten leaves, or a fragment of fallen rock, produces a heavy, earthly matter-of-fact effect upon the imagination, which can hardly be described, and for which the greatest beauty of scenery can furnish only an occasional and transitory remedy.
Our second night in the mountains was past at a solitary86 house of rather forlorn appearance; but we fared much better than the night before, for they gave us clean sheets, a good fire, and no scolding. We again started at four o’clock in the morning, and eagerly watched for the first gleam of light that should show the same lovely spectacle we had seen the day before; nor were we disappointed, though the show was somewhat different. The vapours caught the morning ray, as it first darted87 over the mountain top, and passing it to the scene below, we seemed enveloped88 in a rainbow.
We had now but one ridge left to pass over, and as we reached the top, and looked down on the new world before us, I hardly knew whether most to rejoice that
“All the toil89 of the long-pass’d way”
was over, or to regret that our mountain journey was drawing to a close.
The novelty of my enjoyment had doubtless added much to its keenness. I have never been familiar with mountain scenery. Wales has shewn me all I ever saw, and the region of the Alleghany Alps in no way resembles it. It is a world of mountains rising around you in every direction, and in every form; savage90, vast, and wild; yet almost at every step, some lovely spot meets your eye, green, bright and blooming, as the most cherished nook belonging to some noble Flora91 in our own beautiful land. It is a ride of ninety miles through kalmies, rhododendrons, azalias, vines and roses; sheltered from every blast that blows by vast masses of various coloured rocks, on which
“Tall pines and cedars wave their dark green crests92.”
While in every direction you have a background of blue mountain tops, that play at bo-peep with you in the clouds.
After descending the last ridge we reached Haggerstown, a small neat place, between a town and a village; and here by the piety93 of the Presbyterian coach-masters, we were doomed94 to pass an entire day, and two nights, “as the accommodation line must not run on the sabbath.”
I must, however, mention, that this day of enforced rest was not Sunday. Saturday evening we had taken in at Cumberland a portly passenger, whom we soon discovered to be one of the proprietors96 of the coach. He asked us, with great politeness, if we should wish to travel on the sabbath, or to delay our journey. We answered that we would rather proceed; “The coach, then, shall go on tomorrow,” replied the liberal coach-master, with the greatest courtesy; and accordingly we travelled all Sunday, and arrived at Haggerstown on Sunday night. At the door of the inn our civil proprietor95 left us; but when we enquired97 of the waiter at what hour we were to start on the morrow, he told us that we should be obliged to pass the whole of Monday there, as the coach which was to convey us forward would not arrive from the east, till Tuesday morning.
Thus we discovered that the waiving98 the sabbath-keeping by the proprietor, was for his own convenience, and not for ours, and that we were to be tied by the leg for four-and-twenty hours notwithstanding. This was quite a Yankee trick.
Luckily for us, the inn at Haggerstown was one of the most comfortable I ever entered. It was there that we became fully58 aware that we had left Western America behind us. Instead of being scolded, as we literally99 were at Cincinnati, for asking for a private sitting-room100, we here had two, without asking at all. A waiter, quite comme il faut, summoned us to breakfast, dinner, and tea, which we found prepared with abundance, and even elegance101. The master of the house met us at the door of the eating-room, and, after asking if we wished for any thing not on the table, retired102. The charges were in no respect higher than at Cincinnati.
A considerable creek103, called Conococheque Creek, runs near the town, and the valley through which it passes is said to be the most fertile in America.
On leaving Haggerstown we found, to our mortification104, that we were not to be the sole occupants of the bulky accommodation, two ladies and two gentlemen appearing at the door ready to share it with us. We again started, at four o’clock, by the light of a bright moon, and rumbled105 and nodded through the roads considerably106 worse than those over the mountains.
As the light began to dawn we discovered our ladies to be an old woman and her pretty daughter.
Soon after daylight we found that our pace became much slower than usual, and that from time to time our driver addressed to his companion on the box many and vehement107 exclamations108. The gentlemen put their heads out, to ask what was the matter, but could get no intelligence, till the mail overtook us, when both vehicles stopped, and an animated109 colloquy110 of imprecations took place between the coachmen. At length we learnt that one of our wheels was broken in such a manner as to render it impossible for us to proceed. Upon this the old lady immediately became a principal actor in the scene. She sprung to the window, and addressing the set of gentlemen who completely filled the mail, exclaimed “Gentlemen! can’t you make room for two? only me and my daughter?” The naive111 simplicity112 of this request set both the coaches into an uproar113 of laughter. It was impossible to doubt that she acted upon the same principle as the pious73 Catholic, who addressing heaven with a prayer for himself alone, added “pour ne pas fatiguer ta misericorde.” Our laugh, however, never daunted114 the old woman, or caused her for a moment to cease the reiteration115 of her request, “only for two of us, gentlemen! can’t you find room for two?”
Our situation was really very embarrassing, but not to laugh was impossible. After it was ascertained116 that our own vehicle could not convey us, and that the mail had not even room for two, we decided117 upon walking to the next village, a distance, fortunately, of only two miles, and awaiting there the repair of the wheel. We immediately set off, at the brisk pace that six o’clock and a frosty morning in March were likely to inspire, leaving our old lady and her pretty daughter considerably in the rear; our hearts having been rather hardened by the exclusive nature of her prayer for aid.
When we had again started upon our new wheel, the driver, to recover the time he had lost, drove rapidly over a very rough road, in consequence of which, our self-seeking old lady fell into a perfect agony of terror, and her cries of “we shall be over! oh, Lord! we shall be over! we must over! we shall be over!” lasted to the end of the stage which with laughing, walking, and shaking, was a most fatiguing118 one.
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bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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rumbling
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| n. 隆隆声, 辘辘声 adj. 隆隆响的 动词rumble的现在分词 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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compliance
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| n.顺从；服从；附和；屈从 | |
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exalted
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| adj.(地位等)高的，崇高的；尊贵的，高尚的 | |
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abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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skilful
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| (=skillful)adj.灵巧的，熟练的 | |
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concussion
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| n.脑震荡；震动 | |
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essentially
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| adv.本质上，实质上，基本上 | |
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belle
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| n.靓女 | |
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limpid
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| adj.清澈的，透明的 | |
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atoned
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| v.补偿，赎（罪）( atone的过去式和过去分词 )；补偿，弥补，赎回 | |
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costly
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| adj.昂贵的，价值高的，豪华的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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professing
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| 声称( profess的现在分词 )； 宣称； 公开表明； 信奉 | |
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contriving
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| （不顾困难地）促成某事( contrive的现在分词 )； 巧妙地策划，精巧地制造（如机器）； 设法做到 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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serpentine
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| adj.蜿蜒的，弯曲的 | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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27
rumble
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| n.隆隆声；吵嚷；v.隆隆响；低沉地说 | |
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28
trot
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| n.疾走，慢跑；n.老太婆；现成译本；(复数）trots:腹泻（与the 连用）；v.小跑，快步走，赶紧 | |
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29
preclude
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| vt.阻止，排除，防止；妨碍 | |
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30
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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profuse
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| adj.很多的，大量的，极其丰富的 | |
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evergreens
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| n.常青树，常绿植物，万年青( evergreen的名词复数 ) | |
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shrub
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| n.灌木，灌木丛 | |
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lavish
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| adj.无节制的；浪费的；vt.慷慨地给予，挥霍 | |
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35
profusion
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| n.挥霍；丰富 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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37
enchanting
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| a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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mischief
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| n.损害，伤害，危害；恶作剧，捣蛋，胡闹 | |
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cedar
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| n.雪松，香柏(木) | |
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cedars
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| 雪松，西洋杉( cedar的名词复数 ) | |
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underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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infinitely
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| adv.无限地，无穷地 | |
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hemlock
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| n.毒胡萝卜，铁杉 | |
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beech
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| n.山毛榉；adj.山毛榉的 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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mosses
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| n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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precipices
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| n.悬崖，峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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scentless
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| adj.无气味的，遗臭已消失的 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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miller
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| n.磨坊主 | |
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57
hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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miseries
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| n.痛苦( misery的名词复数 )；痛苦的事；穷困；常发牢骚的人 | |
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discomfort
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| n.不舒服，不安，难过，困难，不方便 | |
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fumes
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| n.(强烈而刺激的)气味，气体 | |
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linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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refreshment
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| n.恢复，精神爽快，提神之事物；（复数）refreshments:点心，茶点 | |
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procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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condescended
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| 屈尊，俯就( condescend的过去式和过去分词 )； 故意表示和蔼可亲 | |
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extorted
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| v.敲诈( extort的过去式和过去分词 )；曲解 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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laurels
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| n.桂冠，荣誉 | |
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luxuriously
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| adv.奢侈地，豪华地 | |
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profusely
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| ad.abundantly | |
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copious
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| adj.丰富的，大量的 | |
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pious
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| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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hermit
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| n.隐士，修道者；隐居 | |
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eloquent
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| adj.雄辩的，口才流利的；明白显示出的 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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prettily
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| adv.优美地；可爱地 | |
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severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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perpendicularly
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| adv. 垂直地, 笔直地, 纵向地 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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poultry
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| n.家禽，禽肉 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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commodiously
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| adv.宽阔地，方便地 | |
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folly
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| n.愚笨，愚蠢，蠢事，蠢行，傻话 | |
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lamented
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| adj.被哀悼的，令人遗憾的v.（为…）哀悼，痛哭，悲伤( lament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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darted
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| v.投掷，投射( dart的过去式和过去分词 )；向前冲，飞奔 | |
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enveloped
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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flora
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| n.(某一地区的)植物群 | |
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crests
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| v.到达山顶（或浪峰）( crest的第三人称单数 )；到达洪峰，达到顶点 | |
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piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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proprietors
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| n.所有人，业主( proprietor的名词复数 ) | |
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enquired
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| 打听( enquire的过去式和过去分词 )； 询问； 问问题； 查问 | |
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waiving
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| v.宣布放弃( waive的现在分词 )；搁置；推迟；放弃（权利、要求等） | |
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literally
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| adv.照字面意义，逐字地；确实 | |
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sitting-room
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| n.（BrE）客厅，起居室 | |
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elegance
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| n.优雅；优美，雅致；精致，巧妙 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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103
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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mortification
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| n.耻辱，屈辱 | |
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105
rumbled
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| 发出隆隆声，发出辘辘声( rumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 轰鸣着缓慢行进； 发现…的真相； 看穿（阴谋） | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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vehement
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| adj.感情强烈的；热烈的；(人)有强烈感情的 | |
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exclamations
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| n.呼喊( exclamation的名词复数 )；感叹；感叹语；感叹词 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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110
colloquy
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| n.谈话，自由讨论 | |
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111
naive
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| adj.幼稚的，轻信的；天真的 | |
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112
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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113
uproar
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| n.骚动，喧嚣，鼎沸 | |
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114
daunted
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| 使（某人）气馁，威吓( daunt的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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115
reiteration
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| n. 重覆, 反覆, 重说 | |
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116
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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117
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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118
fatiguing
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| a.使人劳累的 | |
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