As we advanced towards Baltimore the look of cultivation1 increased, the fences wore an air of greater neatness, the houses began to look like the abodes2 of competence3 and comfort, and we were consoled for the loss of the beautiful mountains by knowing that we were approaching the Atlantic.
From the time of quitting the Ohio river, though, unquestionably, it merits its title of “the beautiful,” especially when compared with the dreary4 Mississippi, I strongly felt the truth of an observation I remembered to have heard in England, that little rivers were more beautiful than great ones. As features in a landscape, this is assuredly the case. Where the stream is so wide that the objects on the opposite shore are indistinct, all the beauty must be derived6 from the water itself; whereas, when the stream is narrow, it becomes only a part of the composition. The Monongahela, which is in size between the Wye and the Thames, is infinitely7 more picturesque8 than the Ohio.
To enjoy the beauty of the vast rivers of this vast country you must be upon the water; and then the power of changing the scenery by now approaching one shore, and now the other, is very pleasing; but travelling as we now did, by land, the wild, rocky, narrow, rapid little rivers we encountered, were a thousand times more beautiful. The Potapsco, near which the road runs, as you approach Baltimore, is at many points very picturesque. The large blocks of grey rock, now close upon its edge, and now retiring to give room for a few acres of bright green herbage, give great interest and variety to its course.
Baltimore is, I think, one of the handsomest cities to approach in the Union. The noble column erected9 to the memory of Washington, and the Catholic Cathedral, with its beautiful dome10, being built on a commanding eminence11, are seen at a great distance. As you draw nearer, many other domes12 and towers become visible, and as you enter Baltimore-street, you feel that you are arrived in a handsome and populous13 city.
We took up our quarters at an excellent hotel, where the coach stopped, and the next day were fortunate enough to find accommodation in the house of a lady, well known to many of my European friends. With her and her amiable14 daughter, we spent a fortnight very agreeably, and felt quite aware that if we had not arrived in London or Paris, we had, at least, left far behind the “half-horse, half-alligator” tribes of the West, as the Kentuckians call themselves.
Baltimore is in many respects a beautiful city; it has several handsome buildings, and even the private dwelling-houses have a look of magnificence, from the abundance of white marble with which many of them are adorned15. The ample flights of steps, and the lofty door frames, are in most of the best houses formed of this beautiful material.
This has been called the city of monuments, from its having the stately column erected to the memory of General Washington, and which bears a colossal16 statue of him at the top; and another pillar of less dimensions, recording17 some victory; I forget which. Both these are of brilliant white marble. There are also several pretty marble fountains in different parts of the city, which greatly add to its beauty. These are not, it is true, quite so splendid as that of the Innocents, or many others at Paris, but they are fountains of clear water, and they are built of white marble. There is one which is sheltered from the sun by a roof supported by light columns; it looks like a temple dedicated18 to the genius of the spring. The water flows into a marble cistern19, to which you descend20 by a flight of steps of delicate whiteness, and return by another. These steps are never without groups of negro girls, some carrying the water on their heads, with that graceful21 steadiness of step, which requires no aid from the hand; some tripping gaily22 with their yet unfilled pitchers23; many of them singing in the soft rich voice, peculiar24 to their race; and all dressed with that strict attention to taste and smartness, which seems the distinguishing characteristic of the Baltimore females of all ranks.
The Catholic Cathedral is considered by all Americans as a magnificent church, but it can hardly be so classed by any one who has seen the churches of Europe; its interior, however, has an air of neatness that amounts to elegance25. The form is a Greek cross, having a dome in the centre; but the proportions are ill-preserved; the dome is too low, and the arches which support it are flattened26, and too wide for their height. On each side of the high altar are chapels27 to the Saviour29 and the Virgin30. The altars in these, as well as the high altar, are of native marble of different colours, and some of the specimens31 are very beautiful. The decorations of the altar are elegant and costly33. The prelate is a cardinal34, and bears, moreover, the title of “Archbishop of Baltimore.”
There are several paintings in different parts of the church, which we heard were considered as very fine. There are two presented by Louis XVIII; one of these is the Descent from the Cross, by Paulin Guirin; the other a copy from Rubens, (as they told us) of a legend of St. Louis in the Holy Land; but the composition of the picture is so abominably35 bad, that I conceive the legend of its being after Rubens, must be as fabulous36 as its subject. The admiration37 in which these pictures are held, is an incontestable indication of the state of art in the country.
We attended mass in this church the Sunday after our arrival, and I was perfectly38 astonished at the beauty and splendid appearance of the ladies who filled it. Excepting on a very brilliant Sunday at the Tuilleries, I never saw so shewy a display of morning costume, and I think I never saw any where so many beautiful women at one glance. They all appeared to be in full dress, and were really all beautiful.
The sermon (I am very attentive39 to sermons) was a most extraordinary one. The priest began by telling us, that he was about to preach upon a vice40 that he would not “mention or name” from the beginning of his sermon to the end.
Having thus excited the curiosity of his hearers, by proposing a riddle41 to them, he began.
Adam, he said, was most assuredly the first who had committed this sin, and Cain the next; then, following the advice given by the listener, in the Plaideurs, “Passons au deluge42, je vous prie;” he went on to mention the particular propriety43 of Noah’s family on this point; and then continued, “Now observe, what did God shew the greatest dislike to? What was it that Jesus was never even accused of? What was it Joseph hated the most? Who was the disciple44 that Jesus chose for his friend?” and thus he went on for nearly an hour, in a strain that was often perfectly unintelligible45 to me, but which, as far as I could comprehend it, appeared to be a sort of expose and commentary upon private anecdotes46 which he had found, or fancied he had found in the Bible. I never saw the attention of a congregation more strongly excited, and I really wished, in Christian47 charity, that something better had rewarded it.
There are a vast number of churches and chapels in the city, in proportion to its extent, and several that are large and well-built; the Unitarian church is the handsomest I have ever seen dedicated to that mode of worship. But the prettiest among them is a little bijou of a thing belonging to the Catholic college. The institution is dedicated to St. Mary, but this little chapel28 looks, though in the midst of a city, as if it should have been sacred to St. John of the wilderness48. There is a sequestered49 little garden behind it, hardly large enough to plant cabbages in, which yet contains a Mount Calvary, bearing a lofty cross. The tiny path which leads up to this sacred spot, is not much wider than a sheep-track, and its cedars50 are but shrubs51, but all is in proportion; and notwithstanding its fairy dimensions, there is something of holiness, and quiet beauty about it, that excites the imagination strangely. The little chapel itself has the same touching52 and impressive character. A solitary53 lamp, whose glare is tempered by delicately painted glass, hangs before the altar. The light of day enters dimly, yet richly, through crimson54 curtains, and the silence with which the well-lined doors opened from time to time, admitting a youth of the establishment, who, with noiseless tread, approached the altar, and kneeling, offered a whispered prayer, and retired55, had something in it more calculated, perhaps, to generate holy thoughts, than even the swelling56 anthem57 heard beneath the resounding58 dome of St. Peter’s.
Baltimore has a handsome museum, superintended by one of the Peale family, well known for their devotion to natural science, and to works of art. It is not their fault if the specimens which they are enabled to display in the latter department are very inferior to their splendid exhibitions in the former.
The theatre was closed when we were in Baltimore, but we were told that it was very far from being a popular or fashionable amusement. We were, indeed, told this every where throughout the country, and the information was generally accompanied by the observation, that the opposition59 of the clergy60 was the cause of it. But I suspect that this is not the principal cause, especially among the men, who, if they were so implicit61 in their obedience62 to the clergy, would certainly be more constant in their attendance at the churches; nor would they, moreover, deem the theatre more righteous because an English actor, or a French dancer, performed there; yet on such occasions the theatres overflow63. The cause, I think, is in the character of the people. I never saw a population so totally divested64 of gaiety; there is no trace of this feeling from one end of the Union to the other. They have no fetes, no fairs, no merry makings, no music in the streets, no Punch, no puppet-shows. If they see a comedy or a farce65, they may laugh at it; but they can do very well without it; and the consciousness of the number of cents that must be paid to enter a theatre, I am very sure turns more steps from its door than any religious feeling. A distinguished66 publisher of Philadelphia told me that no comic publication had ever yet been found to answer in America.
We arrived at Baltimore at the season of the “Conference.” I must be excused from giving any very distinct explanation of this term, as I did not receive any. From what I could learn, it much resembles a Revival67. We entered many churches, and heard much preaching, and not one of the reverend orators68 could utter the reproach,
“Peut-on si bien precher qu’elle ne dorme au sermon?”
for I never even dosed at any. There was one preacher whose manner and matter were so peculiar, that I took the liberty of immediately writing down a part of his discourse69 as a specimen32. I confess I began writing in the middle of a sentence, for I waited in vain for a beginning. It was as follows:-
“Nevertheless, we must not lose sight of the one important, great, and only object; for the Lord is mighty70, his works are great, likewise wonderful, likewise wise, likewise merciful; and, moreover, we must ever keep in mind, and close to our hearts, all his precious blessings71, and unspeakable mercies, and overflowings; and moreover we must never lose sight of, no, never lose sight of, nor ever cease to remember, nor ever let our souls forget, nor ever cease to dwell upon, and to reverence72, and to welcome, and to bless, and to give thanks, and to sing hosanna, and give praise,” — and here my fragment of paper failed, but this strain continued, without a shadow of meaning that I could trace, and in a voice inconceivably loud, for more than an hour. After he had finished his sermon, a scene exactly resembling that at the Cincinnati Revival, took place. Two other priests assisted in calling forward the people, and in whispering comfort to them. One of these men roared out in the coarsest accents, “Do you want to go to hell tonight?” The church was almost entirely73 filled with women, who vied with each other in howlings and contortions74 of the body; many of them tore their clothes nearly off. I was much amused, spite of the indignation and disgust the scene inspired, by the vehemence75 of the negro part of the congregation; they seemed determined76 to bellow77 louder than all the rest, to shew at once their piety78 and their equality.
At this same chapel, a few nights before, a woman had fallen in a fit of ecstasy79 from the gallery, into the arms of the people below, a height of twelve feet. A young slave who waited upon us at table, when this was mentioned, said, that similar accidents had frequently happened, and that once she had seen it herself. Another slave in the house told us, that she “liked religion right well, but that she never took fits in it, ‘cause she was always fixed80 in her best, when she went to chapel, and she did not like to have all her best clothes broke up.”
We visited the infant school, instituted in this city by Mr. Ibbertson, an amiable and intelligent Englishman. It was the first infant school, properly so called, which I had ever seen, and I was greatly pleased with all the arrangements, and the apparent success of them. The children, of whom we saw about a hundred, boys and girls, were between eighteen months and six years. The apartment was filled with all sorts of instructive and amusing objects; a set of Dutch toys, arranged as a cabinet of natural history, was excellent; a numerous collection of large wooden bricks filled one corner of the room; the walls were hung with gay papers of different patterns, each representing some pretty group of figures; large and excellent coloured engravings of birds and beasts were exhibited in succession as the theme of a little lesson; and the sweet flute81 of Mr. Ibbertson gave tune82 and time to the prettiest little concert of chirping83 birds that I ever listened to.
A geographical84 model, large enough to give clear ideas of continent, island, cape5, isthmus85, et cetera, all set in water, is placed before the children, and the pretty creatures point their little rosy86 fingers with a look of intense interest, as they are called upon to shew where each of them is to be found. The dress, both of boys and girls, was elegantly neat, and their manner, when called upon to speak individually, was well-bred, intelligent, and totally free from the rude indifference87, which is so remarkably88 prevalent in the manners of American children. Mr. Ibbertson will be benefactor89 to the Union, if he become the means of spreading the admirable method by which he had polished the manner, and awakened90 the intellect of these beautiful little Republicans. I have conversed91 with many American ladies on the total want of discipline and subjection which I observed universally among children of all ages, and I never found any who did not both acknowledge and deplore92 the truth of the remark. In the state of Ohio they have a law (I know not if it exist elsewhere), that if a father strike his son, he shall pay a fine of ten dollars for every such offence. I was told by a gentleman of Cincinnati, that he had seen this fine inflicted93 there, at the requisition of a boy of twelve years of age, whose father, he proved, had struck him for lying. Such a law, they say, generates a spirit of freedom. What else may it generate?
Mr. Ibbertson, who seems perfectly devoted94, heart and head to the subject, told me that he was employed in organizing successive schools that should receive the pupils as they advanced in age. If he prove himself as capable of completing education, as he appears to be of beginning it, his institution will be a very valuable one. It would, indeed, be valuable any where; but in America, where discipline is not, where, from the shell, they are beings “that cannot rule, nor ever will be ruled,” it is invaluable95.
About two miles from Baltimore is a fort, nobly situated96 on the Patapsco, and commanding the approach from the Chesapeak bay. As our visit was on a Sunday we were not permitted to enter it. The walk to this fort is along a fine terrace of beautiful verdure, which commands a magnificent view of the city, with its columns, towers, domes, and shipping97; and also of the Patapsco river, which is here so wide as to present almost a sea view. This terrace is ornamented98 with abundance of evergreens99, and wild roses innumerable, but, the whole region has the reputation of being unhealthy, and the fort itself most lamentably100 so. Before leaving the city of monuments, I must not omit naming one reared to the growing wealth of the country; Mr. Barham’s hotel is said to be the most splendid in the Union, and it is certainly splendid enough for a people more luxurious101 than the citizens of the republic appear yet to be. I heard different, and, indeed, perfectly contradictory102 accounts of the success of the experiment; but at least every one seemed to agree that the liberal projector103 was fully104 entitled to exclaim,
“’Tis not in mortals to command success;
I have done more, Jonathan, I’ve deserved it.”
After enjoying a very pleasant fortnight, the greater part of which was passed in rambling105 about this pretty city and its environs, we left it, not without regret, and all indulging the hope that we should be able to pay it another visit.
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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abodes
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| 住所( abode的名词复数 )； 公寓； （在某地的）暂住； 逗留 | |
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competence
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| n.能力，胜任，称职 | |
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dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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infinitely
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| adv.无限地，无穷地 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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domes
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| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
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populous
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| adj.人口稠密的，人口众多的 | |
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amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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recording
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| n.录音，记录 | |
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dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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cistern
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| n.贮水池 | |
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descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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pitchers
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| 大水罐( pitcher的名词复数 ) | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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elegance
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| n.优雅；优美，雅致；精致，巧妙 | |
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flattened
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| [医]（水）平扁的，弄平的 | |
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chapels
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| n.小教堂， （医院、监狱等的）附属礼拜堂( chapel的名词复数 )；（在小教堂和附属礼拜堂举行的）礼拜仪式 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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saviour
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| n.拯救者，救星 | |
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virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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costly
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| adj.昂贵的，价值高的，豪华的 | |
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cardinal
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| n.(天主教的)红衣主教；adj.首要的，基本的 | |
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abominably
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| adv. 可恶地，可恨地，恶劣地 | |
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fabulous
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| adj.极好的；极为巨大的；寓言中的，传说中的 | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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attentive
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| adj.注意的，专心的；关心(别人)的，殷勤的 | |
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vice
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| n.坏事；恶习；[pl.]台钳，老虎钳；adj.副的 | |
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riddle
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| n.谜，谜语，粗筛；vt.解谜，给…出谜，筛，检查，鉴定，非难，充满于；vi.出谜 | |
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deluge
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| n./vt.洪水，暴雨，使泛滥 | |
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propriety
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| n.正当行为；正当；适当 | |
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disciple
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| n.信徒，门徒，追随者 | |
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unintelligible
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| adj.无法了解的，难解的，莫明其妙的 | |
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anecdotes
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| n.掌故，趣闻，轶事( anecdote的名词复数 ) | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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sequestered
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| adj.扣押的；隐退的；幽静的；偏僻的v.使隔绝，使隔离( sequester的过去式和过去分词 )；扣押 | |
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cedars
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| 雪松，西洋杉( cedar的名词复数 ) | |
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shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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swelling
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| n.肿胀 | |
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anthem
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| n.圣歌，赞美诗，颂歌 | |
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resounding
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| adj. 响亮的 | |
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opposition
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| n.反对，敌对 | |
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clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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implicit
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| a.暗示的，含蓄的，不明晰的，绝对的 | |
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obedience
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| n.服从，顺从 | |
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overflow
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| v.(使)外溢，(使)溢出；溢出，流出，漫出 | |
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divested
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| v.剥夺( divest的过去式和过去分词 )；脱去（衣服）；2。从…取去…；1。（给某人）脱衣服 | |
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farce
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| n.闹剧，笑剧，滑稽戏；胡闹 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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revival
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| n.复兴，复苏，（精力、活力等的）重振 | |
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orators
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| n.演说者，演讲家( orator的名词复数 ) | |
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discourse
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| n.论文，演说；谈话；话语；vi.讲述，著述 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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reverence
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| n.敬畏，尊敬，尊严；Reverence:对某些基督教神职人员的尊称；v.尊敬，敬畏，崇敬 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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contortions
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| n.扭歪，弯曲；扭曲，弄歪，歪曲( contortion的名词复数 ) | |
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vehemence
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| n.热切；激烈；愤怒 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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bellow
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| v.吼叫，怒吼；大声发出，大声喝道 | |
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piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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ecstasy
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| n.狂喜，心醉神怡，入迷 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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flute
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| n.长笛；v.吹笛 | |
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tune
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| n.调子；和谐，协调；v.调音，调节，调整 | |
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chirping
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| 鸟叫，虫鸣( chirp的现在分词 ) | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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isthmus
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| n.地峡 | |
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rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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benefactor
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| n. 恩人，行善的人，捐助人 | |
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awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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conversed
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| v.交谈，谈话( converse的过去式 ) | |
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deplore
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| vt.哀叹，对...深感遗憾 | |
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inflicted
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| 把…强加给，使承受，遭受( inflict的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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invaluable
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| adj.无价的，非常宝贵的，极为贵重的 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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evergreens
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| n.常青树，常绿植物，万年青( evergreen的名词复数 ) | |
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lamentably
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| adv.哀伤地，拙劣地 | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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102
contradictory
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| adj.反驳的，反对的，抗辩的；n.正反对，矛盾对立 | |
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103
projector
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| n.投影机，放映机，幻灯机 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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rambling
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| adj.[建]凌乱的，杂乱的 | |
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