By far the shortest route to Washington, both as to distance and time, is by land; but I much wished to see the celebrated1 Chesapeak bay, and it was therefore decided2 that we should take our passage in the steam-boat. It is indeed a beautiful little voyage, and well worth the time it costs; but as to the beauty of the bay, it must, I think, be felt only by sailors. It is, I doubt not, a fine shelter for ships, from the storms of the Atlantic, but its very vastness prevents its striking the eye as beautiful: it is, in fact, only a fine sea view. But the entrance from it into the Potomac river is very noble, and is one of the points at which one feels conscious of the gigantic proportions of the country, without having recourse to a graduated pencil-case.
The passage up this river to Washington is interesting, from many objects that it passes, but beyond all else, by the view it affords of Mount Vernon, the seat of General Washington. It is there that this truly great man passed the last years of his virtuous3 life, and it is there that he lies buried: it was easy to distinguish, as we passed, the cypress4 that waves over his grave.
The latter part of the voyage shews some fine river scenery; but I did not discover this till some months afterwards, for we now arrived late at night.
Our first object the next morning was to get a sight of the capitol, and our impatience5 sent us forth6 before breakfast. The mists of morning still hung around this magnificent building when first it broke upon our view, and I am not sure that the effect produced was not the greater for this circumstance. At all events, we were struck with admiration7 and surprise. None of us, I believe, expected to see so imposing8 a structure on that side of the Atlantic. I am ill at describing buildings, but the beauty and majesty9 of the American capitol might defy an abler pen than mine to do it justice. It stands so finely too, high, and alone.
The magnificent western facade10 is approached from the city by terraces and steps of bolder proportions than I ever before saw. The elegant eastern front, to which many persons give the preference, is on a level with a newly-planted but exceedingly handsome inclosure, which, in a few years, will offer the shade of all the most splendid trees which flourish in the Union, to cool the brows and refresh the spirits of the members. The view from the capitol commands the city and many miles around, and it is itself an object of imposing beauty to the whole country adjoining.
We were again fortunate enough to find a very agreeable family to board with; and soon after breakfast left our comfortless hotel near the water, for very pleasant apartments in F. street. [The streets that intersect the great avenues in Washington are distinguished11 by the letters of the alphabet.]
I was delighted with the whole aspect of Washington; light, cheerful, and airy, it reminded me of our fashionable watering places. It has been laughed at by foreigners, and even by natives, because the original plan of the city was upon an enormous scale, and but a very small part of it has been as yet executed. But I confess I see nothing in the least degree ridiculous about it; the original design, which was as beautiful as it was extensive, has been in no way departed from, and all that has been done has been done well. From the base of the hill on which the capitol stands extends a street of most magnificent width, planted on each side with trees, and ornamented12 by many splendid shops. This street, which is called Pennsylvania Avenue, is above a mile in length, and at the end of it is the handsome mansion13 of the President; conveniently near to his residence are the various public offices, all handsome, simple, and commodious14; ample areas are left round each, where grass and shrubs15 refresh the eye. In another of the principal streets is the general post-office, and not far from it a very noble town-hall. Towards the quarter of the President’s house are several handsome dwellings16, which are chiefly occupied by the foreign ministers. The houses in the other parts of the city are scattered17, but without ever losing sight of the regularity18 of the original plan; and to a person who has been travelling much through the country, and marked the immense quantity of new manufactories, new canals, new railroads, new towns, and new cities, which are springing, as it were, from the earth in every part of it, the appearance of the metropolis19 rising gradually into life and splendour, is a spectacle of high historic interest.
Commerce had already produced large and handsome cities in America before she had attained20 to an individual political existence, and Washington may be scorned as a metropolis, where such cities as Philadelphia and New York exist; but I considered it as the growing metropolis of the growing population of the Union, and it already possesses features noble enough to sustain its dignity as such.
The residence of the foreign legations and their families gives a tone to the society of this city which distinguishes it greatly from all others. It is also, for a great part of the year, the residence of the senators and representatives, who must be presumed to be the elite21 of the entire body of citizens, both in respect to talent and education. This cannot fail to make Washington a more agreeable abode22 than any other city in the Union.
The total absence of all sights, sounds, or smells of commerce, adds greatly to the charm. Instead of drays you see handsome carriages; and instead of the busy bustling23 hustle24 of men, shuffling25 on to a sale of “dry goods” or “prime broad stuffs,” you see very well-dressed personages lounging leisurely26 up and down Pennsylvania Avenue.
Mr. Pishey Thompson, the English bookseller, with his pretty collection of all sorts of pretty literature, fresh from London, and Mr. Somebody, the jeweller, with his brilliant shop full of trinkets, are the principal points of attraction and business. What a contrast to all other American cities! The members, who pass several months every year in this lounging easy way, with no labour but a little talking, and with the douceur of eight dollars a day to pay them for it, must feel the change sadly when their term of public service is over.
There is another circumstance which renders the evening parties at Washington extremely unlike those of other places in the Union; this is the great majority of gentlemen. The expense, the trouble, or the necessity of a ruling eye at home, one or all of these reasons, prevents the members’ ladies from accompanying them to Washington; at least, I heard of very few who had their wives with them. The female society is chiefly to be found among the families of the foreign ministers, those of the officers of state, and of the few members, the wealthiest and most aristocratic of the land, who bring their families with them. Some few independent persons reside in or near the city, but this is a class so thinly scattered that they can hardly be accounted a part of the population.
But, strange to say, even here a theatre cannot be supported for more than a few weeks at a time. I was told that gambling27 is the favourite recreation of the gentlemen, and that it is carried to a very considerable extent; but here, as elsewhere within the country, it is kept extremely well out of sight. I do not think I was present with a pack of cards a dozen times during more than three years that I remained in the country. Billiards28 are much played, though in most places the amusement is illegal. It often appeared to me that the old women of a state made the laws, and the young men broke them.
Notwithstanding the diminutive30 size of the city, we found much to see, and to amuse us.
The patent office is a curious record of the fertility of the mind of man when left to its own resources; but it gives ample proof also that it is not under such circumstances it is most usefully employed. This patent office contains models of all the mechanical inventions that have been produced in the Union, and the number is enormous. I asked the man who shewed these, what proportion of them had been brought into use, he said about one in a thousand; he told me also, that they chiefly proceeded from mechanics and agriculturists settled in remote parts of the country, who had began by endeavouring to hit upon some contrivance to enable them to get along without sending some thousand and odd miles for the thing they wanted. If the contrivance succeeded, they generally became so fond of this offspring of their ingenuity31, that they brought it to Washington for a patent.
At the secretary of state’s office we were shewn autographs of all the potentates32 with whom the Union were in alliance; which, I believe, pretty well includes all. To the parchments bearing these royal signs manual were appended, of course, the official seals of each, enclosed in gold or silver boxes of handsome workmanship: I was amused by the manner in which one of their own, just prepared for the court of Russia, was displayed to us, and the superiority of their decorations pointed33 out. They were superior, and in much better taste than the rest; and I only wish that the feeling that induced this display would spread to every corner of the Union, and mix itself with every act and with every sentiment. Let America give a fair portion other attention to the arts and the graces that embellish34 life, and I will make her another visit, and write another book as unlike this as possible.
Among the royal signatures, the only ones which much interested me were two from the hand of Napoleon. The earliest of these, when he was first consul35, was a most illegible36 scrawl37, and, as the tradition went, was written on horseback; but his writing improved greatly after he became an emperor, the subsequent signature being firmly and clearly written. — I longed to steal both.
The purity of the American character, formed and founded on the purity of the American government, was made evident to our senses by the display of all the offerings of esteem38 and regard which had been presented by various sovereigns to the different American ministers who had been sent to their courts. The object of the law which exacted this deposit from every individual so honoured, was, they told us, to prevent the possibility of bribery39 being used to corrupt40 any envoy41 of the Republic. I should think it would be a better way to select for the office such men as they felt could not be seduced42 by a sword or a snuff-box. But they, doubtless, know their own business best.
The bureau for Indian affairs contains a room of great interest: the walls are entirely43 covered with original portraits of all the chiefs who, from time to time, have come to negotiate with their great father, as they call the President.
These portraits are by Mr. King, and, it cannot be doubted, are excellent likenesses, as are all the portraits I have ever seen from the hands of that gentleman. The countenances44 are full of expression, but the expression in most of them is extremely similar; or rather, I should say that they have but two sorts of expression; the one is that of very noble and warlike daring, the other of a gentle and naive46 simplicity47, that has no mixture of folly48 in it, but which is inexpressibly engaging, and the more touching49, perhaps, because at the moment we were looking at them, those very hearts which lent the eyes such meek50 and friendly softness, were wrung51 by a base, cruel, and most oppressive act of their great father.
We were at Washington at the time that the measure for chasing the last of several tribes of Indians from their forest homes, was canvassed52 in congress, and finally decided upon by the FIAT53 of the President. If the American character may be judged by their conduct in this matter, they are most lamentably54 deficient55 in every feeling of honour and integrity. It is among themselves, and from themselves, that I have heard the statements which represent them as treacherous56 and false almost beyond belief in their intercourse57 with the unhappy Indians. Had I, during my residence in the United States, observed any single feature in their national character that could justify58 their eternal boast of liberality and the love of freedom, I might have respected them, however much my taste might have been offended by what was peculiar59 in their manners and customs. But it is impossible for any mind of common honesty not to be revolted by the contradictions in their principles and practice. They inveigh60 against the governments of Europe, because, as they say, they favour the powerful and oppress the weak. You may hear this declaimed upon in Congress, roared out in taverns61, discussed in every drawing-room, satirized62 upon the stage, nay63, even anathematized from the pulpit: listen to it, and then look at them at home; you will see them with one hand hoisting64 the cap of liberty, and with the other flogging their slaves. You will see them one hour lecturing their mob on the indefeasible rights of man, and the next driving from their homes the children of the soil, whom they have bound themselves to protect by the most solemn treaties.
In justice to those who approve not this treacherous policy, I will quote a paragraph from a New York paper, which shews that there are some among them who look with detestation on the bold bad measure decided upon at Washington in the year 1830.
“We know of no subject, at the present moment, of more importance to the character of our country for justice and integrity than that which relates to the Indian tribes in Georgia and Alabama, and particularly the Cherokees in the former state. The Act passed by Congress, just at the end of the session, co-operating with the tyrannical and iniquitous65 statute66 of Georgia, strikes a formidable blow at the reputation of the United States, in respect to their faith, pledged in almost innumerable instances, in the most solemn treaties and compacts.”
There were many objects of much interest shewn us at this Indian bureau; but, from the peculiar circumstances of this most unhappy and ill-used people, it was a very painful interest.
The dresses worn by the chiefs when their portraits were taken, are many of them splendid, from the embroidery67 of beads68 and other ornaments69: and the room contains many specimens70 of their ingenuity, and even of their taste. There is a glass case in the room, wherein are arranged specimens of worked muslin, and other needlework, some very excellent handwriting, and many other little productions of male and female Indians, all proving clearly that they are perfectly71 capable of civilization. Indeed, the circumstance which renders their expulsion from their own, their native lands, so peculiarly lamentable72, is, that they were yielding rapidly to the force of example; their lives were no longer those of wandering hunters, but they were becoming agriculturists, and the tyrannical arm of brutal73 power has not now driven them, as formerly74, only from their hunting grounds, their favourite springs, and the sacred bones of their fathers, but it has chased them from the dwellings their advancing knowledge had taught them to make comfortable; from the newly-ploughed fields of their pride; and from the crops their sweat had watered. And for what? to add some thousand acres of territory to the half-peopled wilderness75 which borders them.
The Potomac, on arriving at Washington, makes a beautiful sweep, which forms a sort of bay, round which the city is built. Just where it makes the turn, a wooden bridge is thrown across, connecting the shores of Maryland and Virginia. This bridge is a mile and a quarter in length, and is ugly enough. [It has since been washed away by the breaking up of the frost of February, 1831.] The navy-yard, and arsenal76, are just above it, on the Maryland side, and make a handsome appearance on the edge of the river, following the sweep above mentioned. Near the arsenal (much too near) is the penitentiary77, which, as it was just finished, and not inhabited, we examined in every part. It is built for the purpose of solitary78 confinement79 for life. A gallows80 is a much less nerve-shaking spectacle than one of these awful cells, and assuredly, when imprisonment81 therein for life is substituted for death, it is no mercy to the criminal; but if it be a greater terror to the citizen, it may answer the purpose better. I do not conceive, that out of a hundred human beings who had been thus confined for a year, one would be found at the end of it who would continue to linger on there, certain it was for ever, if the alternative of being hanged were offered to them. I had written a description of these horrible cells, but Captain Hall’s picture of a similar building is so accurate, and so clear, that it is needless to insert it.
Still following the sweep of the river, at the distance of two miles from Washington, is George Town, formerly a place of considerable commercial importance, and likely, I think, to become so again, when the Ohio and Chesapeake canals, which there mouths into the Potomac, shall be in full action. It is a very pretty town, commanding a lovely view, of which the noble Potomac and the almost nobler capitol, are the great features. The country rises into a beautiful line of hills behind Washington, which form a sort of undulating terrace on to George Town; this terrace is almost entirely occupied by a succession of gentlemen’s seats. At George Town the Potomac suddenly contracts itself, and begins to assume that rapid, rocky and irregular character which marks it afterwards, and renders its course, till it meets the Shenandoah at Harper’s Ferry, a series of the most wild and romantic views that are to be found in America.
Attending the debates in Congress was, of course, one of our great objects; and, as an English woman, I was perhaps the more eager to avail myself of the privilege allowed. It was repeatedly observed to me that, at least in this instance, I must acknowledge the superior gallantry of the Americans, and that they herein give a decided proof of surpassing the English in a wish to honour the ladies, as they have a gallery in the House of Representatives erected83 expressly for them, while in England they are rigorously excluded from every part of the House of Commons.
But the inference I draw from this is precisely84 the reverse of the suggested. It is well known that the reason why the House of Commons was closed against ladies was, that their presence was found too attractive, and that so many members were tempted85 to neglect the business before the House, that they might enjoy the pleasure of conversing86 with the fair critics in the galleries, that it became a matter of national importance to banish87 them — and they were banished88. It will be long ere the American legislature will find it necessary to pass the same law for the same reason. A lady of Washington, however, told me an anecdote89 which went far to shew that a more intellectual turn in the women, would produce a change in the manners of the men. She told me, that when the Miss Wrights were in Washington, with General Lafayette, they very frequently attended the debates, and that the most distinguished members were always crowding round them. For this unwonted gallantry they apologized to their beautiful countrywomen by saying, that if they took equal interest in the debates, the galleries would be always thronged90 by the members.
The privilege of attending these debates would be more valuable could the speakers be better heard from the gallery; but, with the most earnest attention, I could only follow one or two of the orators91, whose voices were peculiarly loud and clear. This made it really a labour to listen; but the extreme beauty of the chamber93 was of itself a reason for going again and again. It was, however, really mortifying94 to see this splendid hall, fitted up in so stately and sumptuous95 a manner, filled with men, sitting in the most unseemly attitudes, a large majority with their hats on, and nearly all, spitting to an excess that decency96 forbids me to describe.
Among the crowd, who must be included in this description, a few were distinguished by not wearing their hats, and by sitting on their chairs like other human beings, without throwing their legs above their heads. Whenever I enquired97 the name of one of these exceptions, I was told that it was Mr. This, or Mr. That, of Virginia.
One day we were fortunate enough to get placed on the sofas between the pillars, on the floor of the House; the galleries being shut up, for the purpose of making some alterations98, which it was hoped might improve the hearing in that part of the House occupied by the members, and which is universally complained of, as being very defective99.5 But in our places on the sofas we found we heard very much better than up stairs, and well enough to be extremely amused by the rude eloquence100 of a thorough horse and alligator101 orator92 from Kentucky, who entreated102 the house repeatedly to “go the whole hog103.”
5 As a proof of this defective hearing in the Hall of Congress, I may quote a passage from a newspaper report of a debate on improvements. It was proposed to suspend a ceiling of glass fifteen feet above the heads of the members. A member, speaking in favour of this proposal, said, “Members would then, at least, be able to understand what was the question before the House, an advantage which most of them did not now possess, respecting more than half the propositions upon which they voted.”
If I mistake not, every debate I listened to in the American Congress was upon one and the same subject, namely, the entire independence of each individual state, with regard to the federal government. The jealousy104 on this point appeared to me to be the very strangest political feeling that ever got possession of the mind of man. I do not pretend to judge the merits of this question. I speak solely105 of the very singular effect of seeing man after man start eagerly to his feet, to declare that the greatest injury, the basest injustice106, the most obnoxious107 tyranny that could be practised against the state of which he was a member, would be a vote of a few million dollars for the purpose of making their roads or canals; or for drainage; or, in short, for any purpose of improvement whatsoever108.
During the month we were at Washington, I heard a great deal of conversation respecting a recent exclusion109 from Congress of a gentleman, who, by every account, was one of the most esteemed110 men in the house, and, I think, the father of it. The crime for which this gentleman was out-voted by his own particular friends and admirers was, that he had given his vote for a grant of public money for the purpose of draining a most lamentable and unhealthy district, called “the dismal111 swamp!”
One great boast of the country is, that they have no national debt, or that they shall have none in two years. This seems not very wonderful, considering their productive tariff112, and that the income paid to their president is L6,000 per annum; other government salaries being in proportion, and all internal improvements, at the expense of the government treasury113, being voted unconstitutional.
The Senate-chamber is, like the Hall of Congress, a semicircle, but of very much smaller dimensions. It is most elegantly fitted up, and what is better still, the senators, generally speaking, look like gentlemen. They do not wear their hats, and the activity of youth being happily past, they do not toss their heels above their heads. I would I could add they do not spit; but, alas114! “I have an oath in heaven,” and may not write an untruth.
A very handsome room, opening on a noble stone balcony is fitted up as a library for the members. The collection, as far as a very cursory115 view could enable me to judge, was very like that of a private English gentleman, but with less Latin, Greek, and Italian. This room also is elegantly furnished; rich Brussels carpet; library tables, with portfolios116 of engravings; abundance of sofas, and so on. The view from it is glorious, and it looks like the abode of luxury and taste.
I can by no means attempt to describe all the apartments of this immense building, but the magnificent rotunda117 in the centre must not be left unnoticed. It is, indeed, a noble hall, a hundred feet in diameter, and of an imposing loftiness, lighted by an ample dome118.
Almost any pictures (excepting the cartoons) would look paltry119 in this room, from the immense height of the walls; but the subjects of the four pictures which are placed there, are of such high historic interest that they should certainly have a place somewhere, as national records. One represents the signing of the declaration of independence; another the resignation of the presidency120 by the great Washington; another the celebrated victory of General Gates at Saratoga; and the fourth. . . . I do not well remember, but I think it is some other martial121 scene, commemorating122 a victory; I rather think that of York Town.
One other object in the capitol must be mentioned, though it occurs in so obscure a part of the building, that one or two members to whom I mentioned it, were not aware of its existence. The lower part of the edifice123, a story below the rotunda, &c., has a variety of committee rooms, courts, and other places of business. In a hall leading to some of these rooms, the ceiling is supported by pillars, the capitals of which struck me as peculiarly beautiful. They are composed of the ears and leaves of the Indian corn, beautifully arranged, and forming as graceful124 an outline as the acanthus itself. This was the only instance I saw, in which America has ventured to attempt national originality125; the success is perfect. A sense of fitness always enhances the effect of beauty. I will not attempt a long essay on the subject, but if America, in her vastness, her immense natural resources, and her remote grandeur126, would be less imitative, she would be infinitely127 more picturesque128 and interesting.
The President has regular evening parties, every other Wednesday, which are called his levees; the last syllable129 is pronounced by every one as long as possible, being exactly the reverse of the French and English manner of pronouncing the same word. The effect of this, from the very frequent repetition of the word in all companies is very droll130, and for a long time I thought people were quizzing these public days. The reception rooms are handsome, particularly the grand saloon, which is elegantly, nay, splendidly furnished; this has been done since the visit of Captain Hall, whose remarks upon the former state of this room may have hastened its decoration; but there are a few anomalies in some parts of the entertainment, which are not very courtly. The company are about as select as that of an Easter-day ball at the Mansion-house.
The churches at Washington are not superb; but the Episcopalian and Catholic were filled with elegantly dressed women. I observed a greater proportion of gentlemen at church at Washington than any where else.
The Presbyterian ladies go to church three times in the day, but the general appearance of Washington on a Sunday is much less puritanical131 than that of most other American towns; the people walk about, and there are no chains in the streets, as at Philadelphia, to prevent their riding or driving, if they like it.
The ladies dress well, but not so splendidly as at Baltimore. I remarked that it was not very unusual at Washington for a lady to take the arm of a gentleman, who was neither her husband, her father, nor her brother. This remarkable132 relaxation133 of American decorum has been probably introduced by the foreign legations.
At about a mile from the town, on the high terrace ground above described, is a very pretty place, to which the proprietor134 has given the name Kaleirama. It is not large, or in any way magnificent, but the view from it is charming; and it has a little wood behind, covering about two hundred acres of broken ground, that slopes down to a dark cold little river, so closely shut in by rocks and evergreens135, that it might serve as a noon-day bath for Diana and her nymphs. The whole of this wood is filled with wild flowers, but such as we cherish fondly in our gardens.
A ferry at George Town crosses the Potomac, and about two miles from it, on the Virginian side, is Arlington, the seat of Mr. Custis, who is the grandson of General Washington’s wife. It is a noble looking place, having a portico136 of stately white columns, which, as the mansion stands high, with a background of dark woods, forms a beautiful object in the landscape. At George Town is a nunnery, where many young ladies are educated, and at a little distance from it, a college of Jesuits for the education of young men, where, as their advertisements state, “the humanities are taught.” We attended mass at the chapel137 of the nunnery, where the female voices that performed the chant were very pleasing. The shadowy form of the veiled abbess in her little sacred parlour, seen through a grating and a black curtain, but rendered clearly visible by the light of a Gothic window behind her, drew a good deal of our attention; every act of genuflection138, even the telling her beads, was discernible, but so mistily139 that it gave her, indeed, the appearance of a being who had already quitted this life, and was hovering140 on the confines of the world of shadows.
The convent has a considerable inclosure attached to it, where I frequently saw from the heights above it, dark figures in awfully141 thick black veils, walking solemnly up and down.
The American lady, who was the subject of one of Prince Hohenlohe’s celebrated miracles, was pointed out to us at Washington. All the world declare that her recovery was marvellous.
There appeared to be a great many foreigners at Washington, particularly French. In Paris I have often observed that it was a sort of fashion to speak of America as a new Utopia, especially among the young liberals, who, before the happy accession of Philip, fancied that a country without a king, was the land of promise; but I sometimes thought that, like many other fine things, it lost part of its brilliance142 when examined too nearly; I overheard the following question and answer pass between two young Frenchmen, who appeared to have met for the first time.
“Eh bien. Monsieur, comment trouvez-vous la liberte et l’egalite mises en action?”
“Mais, Monsieur, je vous avoue que ie beau ideal que nous autres, nous avons concu de tout143 cela a Paris, avait quelque chose de plus poetique que ce que nous trouvons ici!”
On another occasion I was excessively amused by the tone in which one of these young men replied to a question put to him by another Frenchman. A pretty looking woman, but exceedingly deficient in tournure, was standing29 alone at a little distance from them and close at their elbows stood a very awkward looking gentleman. “Qui est cette dame144?” said the enquirer145. “Monsieur,” said my young fat, with an indescribable grimace146, “c’est la femelle de ce male, “ indicating his neighbour by an expressive147 curl of his upper lip.
The theatre was not open while we were in Washington, but we afterwards took advantage of our vicinity to the city, to visit it. The house is very small, and most astonishingly dirty and void of decoration, considering that it is the only place of public amusement that the city affords. I have before mentioned the want of decorum at the Cincinnati theatre, but certainly that of the capital at least rivalled it in the freedom of action and attitude; a freedom which seems to disdain148 the restraints of civilized149 manners. One man in the pit was seized with a violent fit of vomiting150, which appeared not in the least to annoy or surprise his neighbours; and the happy coincidence of a physician being at that moment personated on the stage, was hailed by many of the audience as an excellent joke, of which the actor took advantage, and elicited151 shouts of applause by saying, “I expect my services are wanted elsewhere.”
The spitting was incessant152; and not one in ten of the male part of the illustrious legislative153 audiences sat according to the usual custom of human beings; the legs were thrown sometimes over the front of the box, sometimes over the side of it; here and there a senator stretched his entire length along a bench, and in many instances the front rail was preferred as a seat.
I remarked one young man, whose handsome person, and most elaborate toilet, led me to conclude he was a first-rate personage, and so I doubt not he was; nevertheless, I saw him take from the pocket of his silk waistcoat a lump of tobacco, and daintily deposit it within his cheek.
I am inclined to think this most vile82 and universal habit of chewing tobacco is the cause of a remarkable peculiarity154 in the male physiognomy of Americans; their lips are almost uniformly thin and compressed. At first I accounted for this upon Lavater’s theory, and attributed it to the arid155 temperament156 of the people; but it is too universal to be explained; whereas the habit above mentioned, which pervades157 all classes (excepting the literary) well accounts for it, as the act of expressing the juices of this loathsome158 herb, enforces exactly that position of the lips, which gives this remarkable peculiarity to the American countenance45.
A member of Congress died while we were at Washington, and I was surprised by the ceremony and dignity of his funeral. It seems that whenever a senator or member of Congress dies during the session, he is buried at the expense of the government, (the ceremony not coming under the head of internal improvement), and the arrangements for the funeral are not interfered159 with by his friends, but become matters of State. I transcribed160 the order of the procession as being rather grand and stately.
Chaplains of both Houses.
Physicians who attend the deceased.
Committee of arrangement.
THE BODY,
(Pall borne by six members.)
The Relations of the deceased, with the
Senators and Representatives of the State
to which he belonged, as Mourners.
Sergeant161 at arms of the House of Representatives.
The House of Representatives,
Their Speaker and Clerk preceding.
The Senate of the United States.
The Vice-president and Secretary preceding,
THE PRESIDENT
The procession was of considerable extent, but not on foot, and the majority of the carriages were hired for the occasion. The body was interred162 in an open “grave yard” near the city. I did not see the monument erected on this occasion, but I presume it was in the same style as several others I had remarked in the same burying-ground, inscribed163 to the memory of members who had died at Washington. These were square blocks of masonry164 without any pretension165 to splendour.
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celebrated
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decided
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virtuous
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cypress
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impatience
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forth
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admiration
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imposing
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9
majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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10
facade
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| n.(建筑物的)正面，临街正面；外表 | |
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11
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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12
ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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13
mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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14
commodious
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| adj.宽敞的；使用方便的 | |
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15
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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16
dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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17
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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18
regularity
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| n.规律性，规则性；匀称，整齐 | |
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19
metropolis
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| n.首府；大城市 | |
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20
attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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21
elite
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| n.精英阶层；实力集团；adj.杰出的，卓越的 | |
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22
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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23
bustling
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| adj.喧闹的 | |
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24
hustle
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| v.推搡；竭力兜售或获取；催促；n.奔忙(碌) | |
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25
shuffling
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| adj. 慢慢移动的, 滑移的 动词shuffle的现在分词形式 | |
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26
leisurely
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| adj.悠闲的；从容的，慢慢的 | |
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27
gambling
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| n.赌博；投机 | |
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28
billiards
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| n.台球 | |
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29
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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30
diminutive
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| adj.小巧可爱的，小的 | |
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31
ingenuity
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| n.别出心裁；善于发明创造 | |
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32
potentates
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| n.君主，统治者( potentate的名词复数 )；有权势的人 | |
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33
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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34
embellish
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| v.装饰，布置；给…添加细节，润饰 | |
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35
consul
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| n.领事；执政官 | |
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36
illegible
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| adj.难以辨认的，字迹模糊的 | |
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37
scrawl
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| vt.潦草地书写；n.潦草的笔记，涂写 | |
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38
esteem
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| n.尊敬，尊重；vt.尊重，敬重；把…看作 | |
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39
bribery
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| n.贿络行为，行贿，受贿 | |
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40
corrupt
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| v.贿赂，收买；adj.腐败的，贪污的 | |
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41
envoy
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| n.使节，使者，代表，公使 | |
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42
seduced
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| 诱奸( seduce的过去式和过去分词 )； 勾引； 诱使堕落； 使入迷 | |
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43
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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44
countenances
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| n.面容( countenance的名词复数 )；表情；镇静；道义支持 | |
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45
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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46
naive
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| adj.幼稚的，轻信的；天真的 | |
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47
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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48
folly
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| n.愚笨，愚蠢，蠢事，蠢行，傻话 | |
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49
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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50
meek
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| adj.温顺的，逆来顺受的 | |
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51
wrung
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| 绞( wring的过去式和过去分词 )； 握紧（尤指别人的手）； 把（湿衣服）拧干； 绞掉（水） | |
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52
canvassed
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| v.（在政治方面）游说( canvass的过去式和过去分词 )；调查（如选举前选民的）意见；为讨论而提出（意见等）；详细检查 | |
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53
fiat
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| n.命令，法令，批准；vt.批准，颁布 | |
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54
lamentably
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| adv.哀伤地，拙劣地 | |
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55
deficient
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| adj.不足的，不充份的，有缺陷的 | |
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56
treacherous
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|
| adj.不可靠的，有暗藏的危险的；adj.背叛的，背信弃义的 | |
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57
intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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58
justify
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| vt.证明…正当(或有理)，为…辩护 | |
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59
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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60
inveigh
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| v.痛骂 | |
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61
taverns
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| n.小旅馆，客栈，酒馆( tavern的名词复数 ) | |
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62
satirized
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| v.讽刺，讥讽( satirize的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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63
nay
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| adv.不；n.反对票，投反对票者 | |
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64
hoisting
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| 起重，提升 | |
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65
iniquitous
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| adj.不公正的；邪恶的；高得出奇的 | |
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66
statute
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| n.成文法，法令，法规；章程，规则，条例 | |
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67
embroidery
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| n.绣花，刺绣；绣制品 | |
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68
beads
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| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
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69
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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70
specimens
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|
| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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71
perfectly
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|
| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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72
lamentable
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| adj.令人惋惜的，悔恨的 | |
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73
brutal
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| adj.残忍的，野蛮的，不讲理的 | |
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74
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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75
wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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76
arsenal
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| n.兵工厂，军械库 | |
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77
penitentiary
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| n.感化院；监狱 | |
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78
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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79
confinement
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| n.幽禁，拘留，监禁；分娩；限制，局限 | |
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80
gallows
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| n.绞刑架，绞台 | |
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81
imprisonment
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| n.关押，监禁，坐牢 | |
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82
vile
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|
| adj.卑鄙的，可耻的，邪恶的；坏透的 | |
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83
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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84
precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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85
tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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86
conversing
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| v.交谈，谈话( converse的现在分词 ) | |
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87
banish
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| vt.放逐，驱逐；消除，排除 | |
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88
banished
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| v.放逐，驱逐( banish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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89
anecdote
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|
| n.轶事，趣闻，短故事 | |
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90
thronged
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|
| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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91
orators
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| n.演说者，演讲家( orator的名词复数 ) | |
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92
orator
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| n.演说者，演讲者，雄辩家 | |
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93
chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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94
mortifying
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|
| adj.抑制的，苦修的v.使受辱( mortify的现在分词 )；伤害（人的感情）；克制；抑制（肉体、情感等） | |
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95
sumptuous
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|
| adj.豪华的，奢侈的，华丽的 | |
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96
decency
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|
| n.体面，得体，合宜，正派，庄重 | |
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97
enquired
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| 打听( enquire的过去式和过去分词 )； 询问； 问问题； 查问 | |
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98
alterations
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| n.改动( alteration的名词复数 )；更改；变化；改变 | |
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99
defective
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|
| adj.有毛病的，有问题的，有瑕疵的 | |
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100
eloquence
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| n.雄辩；口才，修辞 | |
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101
alligator
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| n.短吻鳄(一种鳄鱼) | |
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102
entreated
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| 恳求，乞求( entreat的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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103
hog
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| n.猪；馋嘴贪吃的人；vt.把…占为己有，独占 | |
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104
jealousy
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|
| n.妒忌，嫉妒，猜忌 | |
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105
solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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106
injustice
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| n.非正义，不公正，不公平，侵犯（别人的）权利 | |
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107
obnoxious
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| adj.极恼人的，讨人厌的，可憎的 | |
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108
whatsoever
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| adv.（用于否定句中以加强语气）任何；pron.无论什么 | |
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109
exclusion
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| n.拒绝，排除，排斥，远足，远途旅行 | |
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110
esteemed
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| adj.受人尊敬的v.尊敬( esteem的过去式和过去分词 )；敬重；认为；以为 | |
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111
dismal
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| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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112
tariff
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| n.关税，税率；(旅馆、饭店等)价目表，收费表 | |
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113
treasury
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| n.宝库；国库，金库；文库 | |
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114
alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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115
cursory
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| adj.粗略的；草率的；匆促的 | |
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116
portfolios
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| n.投资组合( portfolio的名词复数 )；（保险）业务量；（公司或机构提供的）系列产品；纸夹 | |
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117
rotunda
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| n.圆形建筑物；圆厅 | |
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118
dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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119
paltry
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| adj.无价值的，微不足道的 | |
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120
presidency
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| n.总统(校长，总经理)的职位(任期) | |
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121
martial
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| adj.战争的，军事的，尚武的，威武的 | |
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122
commemorating
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| v.纪念，庆祝( commemorate的现在分词 ) | |
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123
edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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124
graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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125
originality
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| n.创造力，独创性；新颖 | |
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126
grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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127
infinitely
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| adv.无限地，无穷地 | |
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128
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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129
syllable
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| n.音节；vt.分音节 | |
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130
droll
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| adj.古怪的，好笑的 | |
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131
puritanical
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| adj.极端拘谨的；道德严格的 | |
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132
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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133
relaxation
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| n.松弛，放松；休息；消遣；娱乐 | |
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134
proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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135
evergreens
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| n.常青树，常绿植物，万年青( evergreen的名词复数 ) | |
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136
portico
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| n.柱廊，门廊 | |
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137
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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138
genuflection
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| n. 曲膝, 屈服 | |
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139
mistily
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| adv.有雾地，朦胧地，不清楚地 | |
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140
hovering
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| 鸟( hover的现在分词 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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141
awfully
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| adv.可怕地，非常地，极端地 | |
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142
brilliance
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| n.光辉，辉煌，壮丽，（卓越的）才华，才智 | |
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143
tout
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| v.推销，招徕；兜售；吹捧，劝诱 | |
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144
dame
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| n.女士 | |
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145
enquirer
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| 寻问者，追究者 | |
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146
grimace
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| v.做鬼脸，面部歪扭 | |
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147
expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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148
disdain
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| n.鄙视，轻视；v.轻视，鄙视，不屑 | |
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149
civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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150
vomiting
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| 吐 | |
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151
elicited
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| 引出，探出( elicit的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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152
incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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153
legislative
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| n.立法机构，立法权；adj.立法的，有立法权的 | |
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154
peculiarity
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| n.独特性，特色；特殊的东西；怪癖 | |
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155
arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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156
temperament
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| n.气质，性格，性情 | |
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157
pervades
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的第三人称单数 ) | |
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158
loathsome
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| adj.讨厌的，令人厌恶的 | |
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159
interfered
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| v.干预( interfere的过去式和过去分词 )；调停；妨碍；干涉 | |
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160
transcribed
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| （用不同的录音手段）转录( transcribe的过去式和过去分词 )； 改编（乐曲）（以适应他种乐器或声部）； 抄写； 用音标标出（声音） | |
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161
sergeant
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| n.警官，中士 | |
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162
interred
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| v.埋，葬( inter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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163
inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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164
masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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165
pretension
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| n.要求；自命，自称；自负 | |
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