The greatest pleasure I had promised myself in visiting Washington was the seeing a very old friend, who had left England many years ago, and married in America; she was now a widow, and, as I believed, settled in Washington. I soon had the mortification1 of finding that she was not in the city; but ere long I learnt that her residence was not more than ten miles from it. We speedily met, and it was settled that we should pass the summer with her in Maryland, and after a month devoted2 to Washington, we left it for Stonington.
We arrived there the beginning of May, and the kindness of our reception, the interest we felt in becoming acquainted with the family of my friend, the extreme beauty of the surrounding country, and the lovely season, altogether, made our stay there a period of great enjoyment3.
I wonder not that the first settlers in Virginia, with the bold Captain Smith of chivalrous4 memory at their head, should have fought so stoutly5 to dispossess the valiant6 father of Pocohantas of his fair domain7, for I certainly never saw a more tempting8 territory. Stonington is about two miles from the most romantic point of the Potomac River, and Virginia spreads her wild, but beautiful, and most fertile Paradise, on the opposite shore. The Maryland side partakes of the same character, and perfectly9 astonished us by the profusion10 of her wild fruits and flowers.
We had not been long within reach of the great falls of the Potomac before a party was made for us to visit them; the walk from Stonington to these falls is through scenery that can hardly be called forest, park, or garden; but which partakes of all three. A little English girl accompanied us, who had but lately left her home; she exclaimed, “Oh! how many English ladies would glory in such a garden as this!” and in truth they might; cedars11, tulip-trees, planes, shumacs, junipers, and oaks of various kinds, most of them new to us, shaded our path. Wild vines, with their rich expansive leaves, and their sweet blossom, rivalling the mignionette in fragrance12, clustered round their branches. Strawberries in full bloom, violets, anemonies, heart’s-ease, and wild pinks, with many other, and still lovelier flowers, which my ignorance forbids me to name, literally13 covered the ground. The arbor14 judae, the dog-wood, in its fullest glory of star-like flowers, azalias, and wild roses, dazzled our eyes whichever way we turned them. It was the most flowery two miles I ever walked.
The sound of the falls is heard at Stonington, and the gradual increase of this sound is one of the agreeable features of this delicious walk. I know not why the rush of waters is so delightful15 to the ear; all other monotonous16 sounds are wearying, and harass17 the spirits, but I never met any one who did not love to listen to a waterfall. A rapid stream, called the “Branch Creek18,” was to be crossed ere we reached the spot where the falls are first visible. This rumbling19, turbid20, angry little rivulet21, flows through evergreens22 and flowering underwood, and is crossed a plusieures reprises, by logs thrown from rock to rock. The thundering noise of the still unseen falls suggests an idea of danger while crossing these rude bridges, which hardly belongs to them; having reached the other side of the creek, we continued under the shelter of the evergreens for another quarter of a mile, and then emerged upon a sight that drew a shout of wonder and delight from us all. The rocky depths of an enormous river were opened before our eyes and so huge are the black crags that inclose it, that the thundering torrents23 of water rushing through, over, and among the rocks of this awful chasm24, appear lost and swallowed up in it.
The river, or rather the bed of it, is here of great width, and most frightful25 depth, lined on all sides with huge masses of black rock of every imaginable form. The flood that roars through them is seen only at intervals26; here in a full heavy sheet of green transparent27 water, falling straight and unbroken; there dashing along a narrow channel, with a violence that makes one dizzy to see and hear. In one place an unfathomed pool shows a mirror of inky blackness, and as still as night; in another the tortured twisted cataract28 tumbles headlong in a dozen different torrents, half hid by the cloud of spray they send high into the air. Despite this uproar29, the slenderest, loveliest shrubs30, peep forth31 from among these hideous32 rocks, like children smiling in the midst of danger. As we stood looking at this tremendous scene, one of our friends made us remark, that the poison alder33, and the poison vine, threw their graceful34, but perfidious35 branches, over every rock, and assured us also that innumerable tribes of snakes found their dark dwellings36 among them.
To call this scene beautiful would be a strange abuse of terms, for it is altogether composed of sights and sounds of terror. The falls of the Potomac are awfully37 sublime38: the dark deep gulf39 which yawns before you, the foaming40, roaring cataract, the eddying41 whirlpool, and the giddy precipice42, all seem to threaten life, and to appal43 the senses. Yet it was a great delight to sit upon a high and jutting44 crag, and look and listen.
I heard with pleasure that it was to the Virginian side of the Potomac that the “felicity hunters” of Washington resorted to see this fearful wonder, for I never saw a spot where I should less have liked the annoying “how d’ye,” of a casual rencontre. One could not even give or receive the exciting “is it not charming,” which Rousseau talks of, for if it were uttered, it could not be heard, or, if heard, would fall most earthly dull on the spirit, when rapt by the magic of such a scene. A look, or the silent pressure of the arm, is all the interchange of feeling that such a scene allows, and in the midst of my terror and my pleasure, I wished for the arm and the eye of some few from the other side of the Atlantic.
The return from such a scene is more soberly silent than the approach to it; but the cool and quiet hour, the mellowed45 tints46 of some gay blossoms, and the closed bells of others, the drowsy47 hum of the insects that survive the day, and the moist freshness that forbids the foot to weary in its homeward path, have all enjoyment in them, and seem to harmonize with the half wearied, half excited state of spirits, that such an excursion is sure to produce: and then the entering the cool and moonlit portico48, the well-iced sangaree, or still more refreshing49 coffee, that waits you, is all delightful; and if to this be added the happiness of an easy sofa, and a friend like my charming Mrs. S—, to soothe50 you with an hour of Mozart the most fastidious European might allow that such a day was worth waking for.
1 mortification | |
n.耻辱,屈辱 | |
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2 devoted | |
adj.忠诚的,忠实的,热心的,献身于...的 | |
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3 enjoyment | |
n.乐趣;享有;享用 | |
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4 chivalrous | |
adj.武士精神的;对女人彬彬有礼的 | |
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5 stoutly | |
adv.牢固地,粗壮的 | |
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6 valiant | |
adj.勇敢的,英勇的;n.勇士,勇敢的人 | |
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7 domain | |
n.(活动等)领域,范围;领地,势力范围 | |
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8 tempting | |
a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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9 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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10 profusion | |
n.挥霍;丰富 | |
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11 cedars | |
雪松,西洋杉( cedar的名词复数 ) | |
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12 fragrance | |
n.芬芳,香味,香气 | |
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13 literally | |
adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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14 arbor | |
n.凉亭;树木 | |
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15 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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16 monotonous | |
adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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17 harass | |
vt.使烦恼,折磨,骚扰 | |
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18 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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19 rumbling | |
n. 隆隆声, 辘辘声 adj. 隆隆响的 动词rumble的现在分词 | |
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20 turbid | |
adj.混浊的,泥水的,浓的 | |
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21 rivulet | |
n.小溪,小河 | |
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22 evergreens | |
n.常青树,常绿植物,万年青( evergreen的名词复数 ) | |
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23 torrents | |
n.倾注;奔流( torrent的名词复数 );急流;爆发;连续不断 | |
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24 chasm | |
n.深坑,断层,裂口,大分岐,利害冲突 | |
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25 frightful | |
adj.可怕的;讨厌的 | |
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26 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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27 transparent | |
adj.明显的,无疑的;透明的 | |
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28 cataract | |
n.大瀑布,奔流,洪水,白内障 | |
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29 uproar | |
n.骚动,喧嚣,鼎沸 | |
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30 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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31 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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32 hideous | |
adj.丑陋的,可憎的,可怕的,恐怖的 | |
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33 alder | |
n.赤杨树 | |
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34 graceful | |
adj.优美的,优雅的;得体的 | |
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35 perfidious | |
adj.不忠的,背信弃义的 | |
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36 dwellings | |
n.住处,处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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37 awfully | |
adv.可怕地,非常地,极端地 | |
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38 sublime | |
adj.崇高的,伟大的;极度的,不顾后果的 | |
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39 gulf | |
n.海湾;深渊,鸿沟;分歧,隔阂 | |
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40 foaming | |
adj.布满泡沫的;发泡 | |
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41 eddying | |
涡流,涡流的形成 | |
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42 precipice | |
n.悬崖,危急的处境 | |
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43 appal | |
vt.使胆寒,使惊骇 | |
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44 jutting | |
v.(使)突出( jut的现在分词 );伸出;(从…)突出;高出 | |
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45 mellowed | |
(使)成熟( mellow的过去式和过去分词 ); 使色彩更加柔和,使酒更加醇香 | |
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46 tints | |
色彩( tint的名词复数 ); 带白的颜色; (淡色)染发剂; 痕迹 | |
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47 drowsy | |
adj.昏昏欲睡的,令人发困的 | |
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48 portico | |
n.柱廊,门廊 | |
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49 refreshing | |
adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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50 soothe | |
v.安慰;使平静;使减轻;缓和;奉承 | |
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