It was the 21st of September. The sun was then passing through the autumnal equinox, that is to say, the day and night were of equal length all over the world. These successive alternations of light and darkness were hailed with delight by the inhabitants of the fort. It is easier to sleep in the absence of the sun, and darkness refreshes and strengthens the eyes, weary with the unchanging brightness of several months of daylight.
We know that during the equinox the tides are generally at their greatest height; we have high water or flood, for the sun and moon being in conjunction, their double influence is brought to bear upon the waters. It was, therefore, necessary to note carefully the approaching tide at Cape1 Bathurst. Jaspar Hobson had made bench marks some days before, so as to estimate exactly the amount of vertical2 displacement3 of the waters between high and low tide; he found, however, that in spite of all the reports of previous observers, the combined solar and lunar influence was hardly felt in this part of the Arctic Ocean. There was scarcely any tide at all, and the statements of navigators on the subject were contradicted.
“There is certainly something unnatural4 here!” said Lieutenant5 Hobson to himself.
He did not in fact know what to think, but other cares soon occupied his mind, and he did not long endeavour to get to the rights of this singular peculiarity7.
On the 29th September the state of the atmosphere changed considerably8. The thermometer fell to 41° Fahrenheit9, and the sky became covered with clouds which were soon converted into heavy rain. The bad season was approaching.
Before the ground should be covered with snow, Mrs Joliffe was busy sowing the seeds of Cochlearia (scurvy grass) and sorrel, in the hope that as they were very hardy10, and would be well protected from the rigour of the winter by the snow itself, they would come up in the spring. Her garden, consisting of several acres hidden behind the cliff of the cape, had been prepared beforehand, and it was sown during the last days of September.
Hobson made his companions assume their winter garments before the great cold set in, and all were soon suitably clothed in the linen11 under vests, deerskin cloaks, sealskin pantaloons, fur bonnets12, and waterproof13 boots with which they were provided. We may also say that the rooms were suitably dressed; the wooden walls were hung with skins, in order to prevent the formation upon them of coats of ice in sudden falls of temperature. About this time, Rae set up his condensers14 for collecting the vapour suspended in the air, which were to be emptied twice a week. The heat of the stove was regulated according to the variations of the external temperature, so as to keep the thermometer of the rooms at 50° Fahrenheit. The house would soon be covered with thick snow, which would prevent any waste of the internal warmth, and by this combination of natural and artificial protections they hoped to be able successfully to contend with their two most formidable enemies, cold and damp.
On the 2nd October the thermometer fell still lower, and the first snow storm came on; there was but little wind, and there were therefore none of those violent whirlpools of snow called drifts, but a vast white carpet of uniform thickness soon clothed the cape, the enceinte of fort, and the coast. The waters of the lake and sea, not yet petrified15 by the icy hand of winter, were of a dull, gloomy, greyish hue16, and on the northern horizon the first icebergs17 stood out against the misty18 sky. The blockade had not yet commenced, but nature was collecting her materials, soon to be cemented by the cold into an impenetrable barrier.
The “ young ice “ was rapidly forming on the liquid surfaces of sea and lake. The lagoon19 was the first to freeze over; large whitish-grey patches appeared here and there, signs of a hard frost setting in, favoured by the calmness of the atmosphere. and after a night during which the thermometer had remained at 15° Fahrenheit, the surface of the lake was smooth and firm enough to satisfy the most fastidious skaters of the Serpentine20. On the verge21 of the horizon, the sky assumed that peculiar6 appearance which whalers call ice-blink, and which is the result of the glare of light reflected obliquely22 from the surface of the ice against the opposite atmosphere. Vast tracts23 of the ocean became gradually solidified24, the ice-fields, formed by the accumulation of icicles, became welded to the coast, presenting a surface broken and distorted by the action of the waves, and contrasting strongly with the smooth mirror of the lake. Here and there floated these long pieces, scarcely cemented together at the edges, known as “ drift ice,” and the “ hummocks25,” or protuberances caused by the squeezing of one piece against another, were also of frequent occurrence.
In a few days the aspect of Cape Bathurst and the surrounding districts was completely changed. Mrs Barnett’s delight and enthusiasm knew no bounds; everything was new to her, and she would have thought no fatigue26 or suffering too great to be endured for the sake of witnessing such a spectacle. She could imagine nothing more sublime27 than this invasion of winter with all its mighty28 forces, this conquest of the northern regions by the cold. All trace of the distinctive29 features of the country had disappeared; the land was metamorphosed, a new country was springing into being before her admiring eyes, a country gifted with a grand and touching30 beauty. Details were lost, only the large outlines were given, scarcely marked out against the misty sky. One transformation31 scene followed another with magic rapidity. The ocean, which but lately lifted up its mighty waves, was hushed and still; the verdant32 soil of various hues33 was replaced by a carpet of dazzling whiteness; the woods of trees of different kinds were converted into groups of gaunt skeletons draped in hoar-frost; the radiant orb34 of day had become a pale disc, languidly running its allotted35 course in the thick fog, and visible but for a few hours a day, whilst the sea horizon, no longer clearly cut against the sky, was hidden by an endless chain of ice-bergs, broken into countless36 rugged37 forms, and building up that impenetrable ice-wall, which Nature has set up between the Pole and the bold explorers who endeavour to reach it.
We can well understand to how many discussions and conversations the altered appearance of the country gave rise. Thomas Black was the only one who remained indifferent to the sublime beauty of the scene. But what could one expect of an astronomer38 so wrapped up in his one idea, that he might be said to be present in the little colony in the body, but absent in spirit? He lived in the contemplation of the heavenly bodies, passing from the examination of one constellation39 to that of another, roving in imagination through the vast realms of space, peopled by countless radiant orbs40, and fuming41 with rage when fogs or clouds hid the objects of his devotion from his sight. Hobson consoled him by promising42 him fine cold nights admirably suited to astronomical43 observations, when he could watch the beautiful Aurora44 Borealis, the lunar halos, and other phenomena45 of Polar countries worthy46 even of his admiration47.
The cold was not at this time too intense; there was no wind, and it is the wind which makes the cold so sharp and biting. Hunting was vigorously carried on for some days. The magazines became stocked with new furs, and fresh stores of provisions were laid up. Partridges and ptarmigans on their way to the south passed over the fort in great numbers, and supplied fresh and wholesome49 meat. Polar or Arctic hares were plentiful50, and had already assumed their white winter robes. About a hundred of these rodents51 formed a valuable addition to the reserves of the colony.
There were also large flocks of the whistling swan or hooper, one of the finest species of North America. The hunters killed several couples of them, handsome birds, four or five feet in entire length, with white plumage, touched with copper52 colour on the head and upper part of neck. They were on their way to a more hospitable53 zone, where they could find the aquatic54 plants and insects they required for food, and they sped through the air at a rapid pace, for it is as much their native element as water. Trumpeter swans, with a cry like the shrill55 tone of a clarion56, which are about the same size as the hoopers, but have black feet and beaks57, also passed in great numbers, but neither Marbre nor Sabine were fortunate enough to bring down any of them. However, they shouted out “au revoir” in significant tones, for they knew that they would return with the first breezes of spring and that they could then be easily caught. Their skin, plumage, and down, are all of great value, and they are therefore eagerly hunted. In some favourable58 years tens of thousands of them have been exported, fetching half a guinea a piece.
During these excursions, which only lasted for a few hours, and were often interrupted by bad weather, packs of wolves were often met with. There was no need to go far to find them, for, rendered bold by hunger, they already ventured close to the factory. Their scent59 is very keen, and they were attracted by the smell from the kitchen. During the night they could be heard howling in a threatening manner. Although not dangerous individually, these carnivorous beasts are formidable in packs, and the hunters therefore took care to be well armed when they went beyond the enceinte of the fort.
The bears were still more aggressive. Not a day passed without several of these animals being seen. At night they would come close up to the enclosure, and sane60 were even wounded with shot, but got off, staining the snow with their blood, so that up to October 10th not one had left its warm and valuable fur in the hands of the hunters. Hobson would not have them molested61, rightly judging that with such formidable creatures it was best to remain on the defensive62, and it was not improbable that, urged on by hunger, they might attack Fort Hope before very long. Then the little colony could defend itself, and provision its stores at the same time.
For a few days the weather continued dry and cold, the surface of the snow was firm and suitable for walking, so that a few excursions were made without difficulty along the coast on the south of the fort. The Lieutenant was anxious to ascertain63 if the agents of the St Louis Fur Company had left the country. No traces were, however, found of their return march, and it was therefore concluded that they had gone down to some southern fort to pass the winter by another route.
The few fine days were soon over, and in the first week of November the wind veered64 round to the south, making the temperature warmer, it is true, but also bringing heavy snow-storms. The ground was soon covered with a soft Cushion several feet thick, which had to be cleared away round the house every day, whilst a lane was made through it to the postern, the shed, and the stable of the dogs and rein-deer. Excursions became more and more rare, and it was impossible to walk without snow-shoes.
When the snow has become hardened by frost, it easily sustains the weight of a man; but when it is soft and yielding, and the unfortunate pedestrian sinks into it up to his knees, the snow-shoes used by Indians are invaluable65.
Lieutenant Hobson and his companions were quite accustomed to walk in them, and could glide66 about over the snow as rapidly as skaters on ice; Mrs Barnett had early practised wearing them, and was quite as expert in their use as the rest of the party. The frozen lake as well as the coast was scoured67 by these indefatigable68 explorers, who were even able to advance several miles from the shore on the solid surface of the ocean now covered with ice several feet thick. It was, however, very tiring work, for the ice-fields were rugged and uneven69, strewn with piled-up ridges48 of ice and hummocks which had to be turned. Further out a chain of icebergs, some five hundred feet high, barred their progress. These mighty icebergs, broken into fantastic and picturesque70 forms, were a truly magnificent spectacle. Here they looked like the whitened ruins of a town with curtains battered71 in, and monuments and columns overthrown72; there like some volcanic73 land torn and convulsed by earthquakes and eruptions74; a confusion of glaciers75 and glittering ice-peaks with snowy ramparts and buttresses76, valleys, and crevasses77, mountains and hillocks, tossed and distorted like the famous Alps of Switzerland. A few scattered78 birds, petrels, guillemots, and puffins, lingering behind their fellows, still enlivened the vast solitude79 with their piercing cries; huge white bears roamed about amongst the hummocks, their dazzling coats scarcely distinguishable from the shining ice-truly there was enough to interest and excite our adventurous80 lady traveller, and even Madge, the faithful Madge, shared the enthusiasm of her mistress. How far, how very far, were both from the tropic zones of India or Australia!
The frozen ocean was firm enough to have allowed of the passage of a park of artillery81, or the erection of a monument, and many were the excursions on its surface until the sudden lowering of the temperature rendered all exertion82 so exhausting that they had to be discontinued. The pedestrians83 were out of breath after taking a few steps, and the dazzling whiteness of the glittering snow could not be endured by the naked eye; indeed, the reverberation84 or flickering85 glare of the undulatory reflection of the light from the surface of the snow, has been known to cause several cases of blindness amongst the Esquimaux.
A singular phenomenon due to the refraction of rays of light was now observed: distances, depths, and heights lost their true proportions, five or six yards of ice looked like two, and many were the falls and ludicrous results of this optical illusion.
On October 14th the thermometer marked 3° Fahrenheit below zero, a severe temperature to endure, especially when the north wind blows strongly. The air seemed to be made of needles, and those who ventured out of the house were in great danger of being frost-bitten, when death or mortification86 would ensue if the suspended circulation of the blood were not restored by immediate87 friction88 with snow. Garry, Belcher, Hope, and other members of the little community were attacked by frost-bite, but the parts affected89 being rubbed in time they escaped without serious injury.
It will readily be understood that all manual labour had now become impossible. The days were extremely short, the sun was only above the horizon for a few hours and the actual winter, implying entire confinement90 within doors, was about to commence. The last Arctic birds forsook91 the gloomy shores of the Polar Sea, only a few pairs of those speckled quails92 remained which the Indians appropriately call “ winter birds,” because they wait in the Arctic regions until the commencement of the Polar night, but they too were soon to take their departure.
Lieutenant Hobson, therefore, urged on the setting of the traps and snares93 which were to remain in different parts of Cape Bathurst throughout the winter.
These traps consisted merely of rough joists supported on a square, formed of three pieces of wood so balanced as to fall on the least touch-in fact, the same sort of trap as that used for snaring94 birds in fields on a large scale. The end of the horizontal piece of wood was baited with venison, and every animal of a moderate height, a fox or a marten, for instance, which touched it with its paw, could not fail to be crushed. Such were the traps set in the winter over a space of several miles by the famous hunters whose adventurous life has been so poetically95 described by Cooper. Some thirty of these snares were set round Fort Hope, and were to be visited at pretty frequent intervals96.
On the 12th November a new member was born to the little colony. Mrs Mac-Nab was safely confined of a fine healthy boy, of whom the head carpenter was extremely proud. Mrs Barnett stood god-mother to the child, which received the name of Michael Hope. The ceremony of baptism was performed with considerable solemnity, and a kind of fête was held in honour of the little creature which had just come into the world beyond the 70th degree N. Lat.
A few days afterwards, on November .20th, the sun sunk below the horizon not to appear again for two months. The Polar night had commenced!
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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vertical
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| adj.垂直的，顶点的，纵向的；n.垂直物，垂直的位置 | |
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displacement
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| n.移置，取代，位移，排水量 | |
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unnatural
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| adj.不自然的；反常的 | |
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lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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peculiarity
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| n.独特性，特色；特殊的东西；怪癖 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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Fahrenheit
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| n./adj.华氏温度；华氏温度计(的) | |
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hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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bonnets
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| n.童帽( bonnet的名词复数 )；（烟囱等的）覆盖物；（苏格兰男子的）无边呢帽；（女子戴的）任何一种帽子 | |
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waterproof
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| n.防水材料；adj.防水的；v.使...能防水 | |
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condensers
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| n.冷凝器( condenser的名词复数 )；（尤指汽车发动机内的）电容器 | |
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petrified
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| adj.惊呆的；目瞪口呆的v.使吓呆，使惊呆；变僵硬；使石化(petrify的过去式和过去分词) | |
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hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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icebergs
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| n.冰山，流冰( iceberg的名词复数 ) | |
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misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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serpentine
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| adj.蜿蜒的，弯曲的 | |
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verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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obliquely
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| adv.斜； 倾斜； 间接； 不光明正大 | |
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tracts
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| 大片土地( tract的名词复数 )； 地带； （体内的）道； （尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的）短文 | |
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solidified
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| （使）成为固体，（使）变硬，（使）变得坚固( solidify的过去式和过去分词 )； 使团结一致； 充实，巩固； 具体化 | |
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hummocks
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| n.小丘，岗( hummock的名词复数 ) | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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distinctive
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| adj.特别的，有特色的，与众不同的 | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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transformation
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| n.变化；改造；转变 | |
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verdant
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| adj.翠绿的，青翠的，生疏的，不老练的 | |
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hues
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| 色彩( hue的名词复数 )； 色调； 信仰； 观点 | |
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orb
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| n.太阳；星球；v.弄圆；成球形 | |
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allotted
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| 分配，拨给，摊派( allot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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astronomer
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| n.天文学家 | |
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constellation
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| n.星座n.灿烂的一群 | |
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orbs
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| abbr.off-reservation boarding school 在校寄宿学校n.球，天体，圆形物( orb的名词复数 ) | |
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fuming
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| 愤怒( fume的现在分词 )； 大怒； 发怒； 冒烟 | |
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promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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astronomical
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| adj.天文学的，（数字）极大的 | |
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aurora
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| n.极光 | |
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phenomena
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| n.现象 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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plentiful
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| adj.富裕的，丰富的 | |
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rodents
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| n.啮齿目动物( rodent的名词复数 ) | |
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copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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aquatic
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| adj.水生的，水栖的 | |
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shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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clarion
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| n.尖音小号声；尖音小号 | |
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beaks
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| n.鸟嘴( beak的名词复数 )；鹰钩嘴；尖鼻子；掌权者 | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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scent
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| n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉 | |
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sane
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| adj.心智健全的，神志清醒的，明智的，稳健的 | |
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molested
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| v.骚扰( molest的过去式和过去分词 )；干扰；调戏；猥亵 | |
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defensive
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| adj.防御的；防卫的；防守的 | |
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ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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veered
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| v.（尤指交通工具）改变方向或路线( veer的过去式和过去分词 )；（指谈话内容、人的行为或观点）突然改变；（指风） （在北半球按顺时针方向、在南半球按逆时针方向）逐渐转向；风向顺时针转 | |
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invaluable
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| adj.无价的，非常宝贵的，极为贵重的 | |
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glide
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| n./v.溜，滑行；(时间)消逝 | |
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scoured
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| 走遍（某地）搜寻（人或物）( scour的过去式和过去分词 )； （用力）刷； 擦净； 擦亮 | |
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indefatigable
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| adj.不知疲倦的，不屈不挠的 | |
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uneven
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| adj.不平坦的，不规则的，不均匀的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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battered
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| adj.磨损的；v.连续猛击；磨损 | |
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overthrown
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| adj. 打翻的，推倒的，倾覆的 动词overthrow的过去分词 | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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eruptions
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| n.喷发，爆发( eruption的名词复数 ) | |
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glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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buttresses
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| n.扶壁，扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑，加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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crevasses
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| n.破口，崩溃处，裂缝( crevasse的名词复数 ) | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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artillery
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| n.(军)火炮，大炮；炮兵(部队) | |
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exertion
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| n.尽力，努力 | |
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pedestrians
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| n.步行者( pedestrian的名词复数 ) | |
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reverberation
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| 反响； 回响； 反射； 反射物 | |
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flickering
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| adj.闪烁的，摇曳的，一闪一闪的 | |
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mortification
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| n.耻辱，屈辱 | |
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immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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friction
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| n.摩擦，摩擦力 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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confinement
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| n.幽禁，拘留，监禁；分娩；限制，局限 | |
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forsook
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| forsake的过去式 | |
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quails
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| 鹌鹑( quail的名词复数 )； 鹌鹑肉 | |
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snares
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| n.陷阱( snare的名词复数 )；圈套；诱人遭受失败（丢脸、损失等）的东西；诱惑物v.用罗网捕捉，诱陷，陷害( snare的第三人称单数 ) | |
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snaring
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| v.用罗网捕捉，诱陷，陷害( snare的现在分词 ) | |
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poetically
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| adv.有诗意地，用韵文 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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