A House to Let in a Low Island
NEVER populous1, it was yet by a chapter of accidents that I found the island so deserted3 that no sound of human life diversified4 the hours; that we walked in that trim public garden of a town, among closed houses, without even a lodging-bill in a window to prove some tenancy in the back quarters; and, when we visited the Government bungalow5, that Mr. Donat, acting6 Vice-Resident, greeted us alone, and entertained us with cocoa-nut punches in the Sessions Hall and seat of judgment7 of that widespread archipelago, our glasses standing8 arrayed with summonses and census9 returns. The unpopularity of a late Vice-Resident had begun the movement of exodus10, his native employes resigning court appointments and retiring each to his own coco-patch in the remoter districts of the isle11. Upon the back of that, the Governor in Papeete issued a decree: All land in the Paumotus must be defined and registered by a certain date. Now, the folk of the archipelago are half nomadic12; a man can scarce be said to belong to a particular atoll; he belongs to several, perhaps holds a stake and counts cousinship in half a score; and the inhabitants of Rotoava in particular, man, woman, and child, and from the gendarme13 to the Mormon prophet and the schoolmaster, owned — I was going to say land — owned at least coral blocks and growing coco-palms in some adjacent isle. Thither14 — from the gendarme to the babe in arms, the pastor15 followed by his flock, the schoolmaster carrying along with him his scholars, and the scholars with their books and slates16 — they had taken ship some two days previous to our arrival, and were all now engaged disputing boundaries. Fancy overhears the shrillness17 of their disputation mingle18 with the surf and scatter19 sea-fowl. It was admirable to observe the completeness of their flight, like that of hibernating20 birds; nothing left but empty houses, like old nests to be reoccupied in spring; and even the harmless necessary dominie borne with them in their transmigration. Fifty odd set out, and only seven, I was informed, remained. But when I made a feast on board the CASCO, more than seven, and nearer seven times seven, appeared to be my guests. Whence they appeared, how they were summoned, whither they vanished when the feast was eaten, I have no guess. In view of Low Island tales, and that awful frequentation which makes men avoid the seaward beaches of an atoll, some two score of those that ate with us may have returned, for the occasion, from the kingdom of the dead.
It was this solitude21 that put it in our minds to hire a house, and become, for the time being, indwellers of the isle — a practice I have ever since, when it was possible, adhered to. Mr. Donat placed us, with that intent, under the convoy22 of one Taniera Mahinui, who combined the incongruous characters of catechist and convict. The reader may smile, but I affirm he was well qualified23 for either part. For that of convict, first of all, by a good substantial felony, such as in all lands casts the perpetrator in chains and dungeons24. Taniera was a man of birth — the chief a while ago, as he loved to tell, of a district in Anaa of 800 souls. In an evil hour it occurred to the authorities in Papeete to charge the chiefs with the collection of the taxes. It is a question if much were collected; it is certain that nothing was handed on; and Taniera, who had distinguished26 himself by a visit to Papeete and some high living in restaurants, was chosen for the scapegoat27. The reader must understand that not Taniera but the authorities in Papeete were first in fault. The charge imposed was disproportioned. I have not yet heard of any Polynesian capable of such a burden; honest and upright Hawaiians — one in particular, who was admired even by the whites as an inflexible28 magistrate29 — have stumbled in the narrow path of the trustee. And Taniera, when the pinch came, scorned to denounce accomplices30; others had shared the spoil, he bore the penalty alone. He was condemned31 in five years. The period, when I had the pleasure of his friendship, was not yet expired; he still drew prison rations32, the sole and not unwelcome reminder33 of his chains, and, I believe, looked forward to the date of his enfranchisement34 with mere35 alarm. For he had no sense of shame in the position; complained of nothing but the defective36 table of his place of exile; regretted nothing but the fowls37 and eggs and fish of his own more favoured island. And as for his parishioners, they did not think one hair the less of him. A schoolboy, mulcted in ten thousand lines of Greek and dwelling38 sequestered39 in the dormitories, enjoys unabated consideration from his fellows. So with Taniera: a marked man, not a dishonoured41; having fallen under the lash42 of the unthinkable gods; a Job, perhaps, or say a Taniera in the den2 of lions. Songs are likely made and sung about this saintly Robin43 Hood44. On the other hand, he was even highly qualified for his office in the Church; being by nature a grave, considerate, and kindly45 man; his face rugged46 and serious, his smile bright; the master of several trades, a builder both of boats and houses; endowed with a fine pulpit voice; endowed besides with such a gift of eloquence47 that at the grave of the late chief of Fakarava he set all the assistants weeping. I never met a man of a mind more ecclesiastical; he loved to dispute and to inform himself of doctrine48 and the history of sects49; and when I showed him the cuts in a volume of Chambers50’s ENCYCLOPAEDIA— except for one of an ape — reserved his whole enthusiasm for cardinals’ hats, censers, candlesticks, and cathedrals. Methought when he looked upon the cardinal’s hat a voice said low in his ear: ‘Your foot is on the ladder.’
Under the guidance of Taniera we were soon installed in what I believe to have been the best-appointed private house in Fakarava. It stood just beyond the church in an oblong patch of cultivation52. More than three hundred sacks of soil were imported from Tahiti for the Residency garden; and this must shortly be renewed, for the earth blows away, sinks in crevices53 of the coral, and is sought for at last in vain. I know not how much earth had gone to the garden of my villa54; some at least, for an alley55 of prosperous bananas ran to the gate, and over the rest of the enclosure, which was covered with the usual clinker-like fragments of smashed coral, not only coco-palms and mikis but also fig-trees flourished, all of a delicious greenness. Of course there was no blade of grass. In front a picket56 fence divided us from the white road, the palm — fringed margin57 of the lagoon58, and the lagoon itself, reflecting clouds by day and stars by night. At the back, a bulwark59 of uncemented coral enclosed us from the narrow belt of bush and the nigh ocean beach where the seas thundered, the roar and wash of them still humming in the chambers of the house.
This itself was of one story, verandahed front and back. It contained three rooms, three sewing-machines, three sea-chests, chairs, tables, a pair of beds, a cradle, a double-barrelled gun, a pair of enlarged coloured photographs, a pair of coloured prints after Wilkie and Mulready, and a French lithograph60 with the legend: ‘LE BRIGADE DU GENERAL LEPASSET BRULANT SON DRAPEAU DEVANT METZ.’ Under the stilts61 of the house a stove was rusting62, till we drew it forth63 and put it in commission. Not far off was the burrow64 in the coral whence we supplied ourselves with brackish65 water. There was live stock, besides, on the estate — cocks and hens and a brace66 of ill-regulated cats, whom Taniera came every morning with the sun to feed on grated cocoa-nut. His voice was our regular reveille, ringing pleasantly about the garden: ‘Pooty — pooty — poo — poo — poo!’
Far as we were from the public offices, the nearness of the chapel67 made our situation what is called eligible68 in advertisements, and gave us a side look on some native life. Every morning, as soon as he had fed the fowls, Taniera set the bell agoing in the small belfry; and the faithful, who were not very numerous, gathered to prayers. I was once present: it was the Lord’s day, and seven females and eight males composed the congregation. A woman played precentor, starting with a longish note; the catechist joined in upon the second bar; and then the faithful in a body. Some had printed hymn69-books which they followed; some of the rest filled up with ‘eh — eh — eh,’ the Paumotuan tol-de-rol. After the hymn, we had an antiphonal prayer or two; and then Taniera rose from the front bench, where he had been sitting in his catechist’s robes, passed within the altar-rails, opened his Tahitian Bible, and began to preach from notes. I understood one word — the name of God; but the preacher managed his voice with taste, used rare and expressive70 gestures, and made a strong impression of sincerity71. The plain service, the vernacular72 Bible, the hymn-tunes mostly on an English pattern — ‘God save the Queen,’ I was informed, a special favourite, — all, save some paper flowers upon the altar, seemed not merely but austerely73 Protestant. It is thus the Catholics have met their low island proselytes half-way.
Taniera had the keys of our house; it was with him I made my bargain, if that could be called a bargain in which all was remitted74 to my generosity75; it was he who fed the cats and poultry76, he who came to call and pick a meal with us like an acknowledged friend; and we long fondly supposed he was our landlord. This belief was not to bear the test of experience; and, as my chapter has to relate, no certainty succeeded it.
We passed some days of airless quiet and great heat; shell — gatherers were warned from the ocean beach, where sunstroke waited them from ten till four; the highest palm hung motionless, there was no voice audible but that of the sea on the far side. At last, about four of a certain afternoon, long cat’s-paws flawed the face of the lagoon; and presently in the tree-tops there awoke the grateful bustle77 of the trades, and all the houses and alleys78 of the island were fanned out. To more than one enchanted79 ship, that had lain long becalmed in view of the green shore, the wind brought deliverance; and by daylight on the morrow a schooner80 and two cutters lay moored81 in the port of Rotoava. Not only in the outer sea, but in the lagoon itself, a certain traffic woke with the reviving breeze; and among the rest one Francois, a half-blood, set sail with the first light in his own half-decked cutter. He had held before a court appointment; being, I believe, the Residency sweeper-out. Trouble arising with the unpopular Vice-Resident, he had thrown his honours down, and fled to the far parts of the atoll to plant cabbages — or at least coco-palms. Thence he was now driven by such need as even a Cincinnatus must acknowledge, and fared for the capital city, the seat of his late functions, to exchange half a ton of copra for necessary flour. And here, for a while, the story leaves to tell of his voyaging.
It must tell, instead, of our house, where, toward seven at night, the catechist came suddenly in with his pleased air of being welcome; armed besides with a considerable bunch of keys. These he proceeded to try on the sea-chests, drawing each in turn from its place against the wall. Heads of strangers appeared in the doorway82 and volunteered suggestions. All in vain. Either they were the wrong keys or the wrong boxes, or the wrong man was trying them. For a little Taniera fumed83 and fretted84; then had recourse to the more summary method of the hatchet85; one of the chests was broken open, and an armful of clothing, male and female, baled out and handed to the strangers on the verandah.
These were Francois, his wife, and their child. About eight a.m., in the midst of the lagoon, their cutter had capsized in jibbing. They got her righted, and though she was still full of water put the child on board. The mainsail had been carried away, but the jib still drew her sluggishly86 along, and Francois and the woman swam astern and worked the rudder with their hands. The cold was cruel; the fatigue87, as time went on, became excessive; and in that preserve of sharks, fear hunted them. Again and again, Francois, the half-breed, would have desisted and gone down; but the woman, whole blood of an amphibious race, still supported him with cheerful words. I am reminded of a woman of Hawaii who swam with her husband, I dare not say how many miles, in a high sea, and came ashore88 at last with his dead body in her arms. It was about five in the evening, after nine hours’ swimming, that Francois and his wife reached land at Rotoava. The gallant89 fight was won, and instantly the more childish side of native character appears. They had supped, and told and retold their story, dripping as they came; the flesh of the woman, whom Mrs. Stevenson helped to shift, was cold as stone; and Francois, having changed to a dry cotton shirt and trousers, passed the remainder of the evening on my floor and between open doorways90, in a thorough draught91. Yet Francois, the son of a French father, speaks excellent French himself and seems intelligent.
It was our first idea that the catechist, true to his evangelical vocation92, was clothing the naked from his superfluity. Then it came out that Francois was but dealing93 with his own. The clothes were his, so was the chest, so was the house. Francois was in fact the landlord. Yet you observe he had hung back on the verandah while Taniera tried his ‘prentice hand upon the locks: and even now, when his true character appeared, the only use he made of the estate was to leave the clothes of his family drying on the fence. Taniera was still the friend of the house, still fed the poultry, still came about us on his daily visits, Francois, during the remainder of his stay, holding bashfully aloof95. And there was stranger matter. Since Francois had lost the whole load of his cutter, the half ton of copra, an axe25, bowls, knives, and clothes — since he had in a manner to begin the world again, and his necessary flour was not yet bought or paid for — I proposed to advance him what he needed on the rent. To my enduring amazement96 he refused, and the reason he gave — if that can be called a reason which but darkens counsel — was that Taniera was his friend. His friend, you observe; not his creditor97. I inquired into that, and was assured that Taniera, an exile in a strange isle, might possibly be in debt himself, but certainly was no man’s creditor.
Very early one morning we were awakened98 by a bustling99 presence in the yard, and found our camp had been surprised by a tall, lean old native lady, dressed in what were obviously widow’s weeds. You could see at a glance she was a notable woman, a housewife, sternly practical, alive with energy, and with fine possibilities of temper. Indeed, there was nothing native about her but the skin; and the type abounds100, and is everywhere respected, nearer home. It did us good to see her scour101 the grounds, examining the plants and chickens; watering, feeding, trimming them; taking angry, purpose — like possession. When she neared the house our sympathy abated40; when she came to the broken chest I wished I were elsewhere. We had scarce a word in common; but her whole lean body spoke102 for her with indignant eloquence. ‘My chest!’ it cried, with a stress on the possessive. ‘My chest — broken open! This is a fine state of things!’ I hastened to lay the blame where it belonged — on Francois and his wife — and found I had made things worse instead of better. She repeated the names at first with incredulity, then with despair. A while she seemed stunned103, next fell to disembowelling the box, piling the goods on the floor, and visibly computing104 the extent of Francois’s ravages105; and presently after she was observed in high speech with Taniera, who seemed to hang an ear like one reproved.
Here, then, by all known marks, should be my land-lady at last; here was every character of the proprietor106 fully94 developed. Should I not approach her on the still depending question of my rent? I carried the point to an adviser107. ‘Nonsense!’ he cried. ‘That’s the old woman, the mother. It doesn’t belong to her. I believe that’s the man the house belongs to,’ and he pointed51 to one of the coloured photographs on the wall. On this I gave up all desire of understanding; and when the time came for me to leave, in the judgment-hall of the archipelago, and with the awful countenance108 of the acting Governor, I duly paid my rent to Taniera. He was satisfied, and so was I. But what had he to do with it? Mr. Donat, acting magistrate and a man of kindred blood, could throw no light upon the mystery; a plain private person, with a taste for letters, cannot be expected to do more.
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populous
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| adj.人口稠密的，人口众多的 | |
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den
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| n.兽穴；秘密地方；安静的小房间，私室 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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diversified
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| adj.多样化的，多种经营的v.使多样化，多样化( diversify的过去式和过去分词 )；进入新的商业领域 | |
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bungalow
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| n.平房，周围有阳台的木造小平房 | |
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acting
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| n.演戏，行为，假装；adj.代理的，临时的，演出用的 | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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census
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| n.(官方的)人口调查，人口普查 | |
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exodus
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| v.大批离去，成群外出 | |
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isle
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| n.小岛，岛 | |
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nomadic
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| adj.流浪的；游牧的 | |
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gendarme
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| n.宪兵 | |
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thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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pastor
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| n.牧师，牧人 | |
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slates
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| （旧时学生用以写字的）石板( slate的名词复数 )； 板岩； 石板瓦； 石板色 | |
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shrillness
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| 尖锐刺耳 | |
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mingle
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| vt.使混合，使相混；vi.混合起来；相交往 | |
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scatter
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| vt.撒，驱散，散开；散布/播；vi.分散，消散 | |
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hibernating
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| （某些动物）冬眠，蛰伏( hibernate的现在分词 ) | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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convoy
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| vt.护送，护卫，护航；n.护送；护送队 | |
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qualified
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| adj.合格的，有资格的，胜任的，有限制的 | |
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dungeons
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| n.地牢( dungeon的名词复数 ) | |
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axe
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| n.斧子；v.用斧头砍，削减 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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scapegoat
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| n.替罪的羔羊，替人顶罪者；v.使…成为替罪羊 | |
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inflexible
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| adj.不可改变的，不受影响的，不屈服的 | |
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magistrate
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| n.地方行政官，地方法官，治安官 | |
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accomplices
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| 从犯，帮凶，同谋( accomplice的名词复数 ) | |
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condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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rations
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| 定量( ration的名词复数 )； 配给量； 正常量； 合理的量 | |
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reminder
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| n.提醒物，纪念品；暗示，提示 | |
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enfranchisement
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| 选举权 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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defective
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| adj.有毛病的，有问题的，有瑕疵的 | |
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fowls
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| 鸟( fowl的名词复数 )； 禽肉； 既不是这； 非驴非马 | |
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dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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sequestered
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| adj.扣押的；隐退的；幽静的；偏僻的v.使隔绝，使隔离( sequester的过去式和过去分词 )；扣押 | |
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abated
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| 减少( abate的过去式和过去分词 )； 减去； 降价； 撤消（诉讼） | |
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dishonoured
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| a.不光彩的，不名誉的 | |
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lash
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| v.系牢；鞭打；猛烈抨击；n.鞭打；眼睫毛 | |
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robin
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| n.知更鸟，红襟鸟 | |
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hood
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| n.头巾，兜帽，覆盖；v.罩上，以头巾覆盖 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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eloquence
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| n.雄辩；口才，修辞 | |
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doctrine
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| n.教义；主义；学说 | |
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sects
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| n.宗派，教派( sect的名词复数 ) | |
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chambers
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| n.房间( chamber的名词复数 )；（议会的）议院；卧室；会议厅 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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crevices
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| n.（尤指岩石的）裂缝，缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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villa
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| n.别墅，城郊小屋 | |
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alley
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| n.小巷，胡同；小径，小路 | |
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picket
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| n.纠察队；警戒哨；v.设置纠察线；布置警卫 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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bulwark
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| n.堡垒，保障，防御 | |
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lithograph
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| n.平板印刷，平板画；v.用平版印刷 | |
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stilts
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| n.（支撑建筑物高出地面或水面的）桩子，支柱( stilt的名词复数 )；高跷 | |
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rusting
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| n.生锈v.（使）生锈( rust的现在分词 ) | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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burrow
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| vt.挖掘(洞穴)；钻进；vi.挖洞；翻寻；n.地洞 | |
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brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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66
brace
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| n. 支柱,曲柄,大括号; v. 绷紧,顶住,(为困难或坏事)做准备 | |
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67
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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68
eligible
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| adj.有条件被选中的；(尤指婚姻等)合适(意)的 | |
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69
hymn
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| n.赞美诗，圣歌，颂歌 | |
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70
expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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71
sincerity
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| n.真诚，诚意；真实 | |
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72
vernacular
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| adj.地方的，用地方语写成的；n.白话；行话；本国语；动植物的俗名 | |
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73
austerely
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| adv.严格地，朴质地 | |
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74
remitted
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| v.免除（债务），宽恕( remit的过去式和过去分词 )；使某事缓和；寄回，传送 | |
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75
generosity
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| n.大度，慷慨，慷慨的行为 | |
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76
poultry
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| n.家禽，禽肉 | |
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77
bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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78
alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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79
enchanted
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| adj. 被施魔法的，陶醉的，入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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80
schooner
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| n.纵帆船 | |
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81
moored
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| adj. 系泊的 动词moor的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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82
doorway
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| n.门口，(喻)入门；门路，途径 | |
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83
fumed
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| 愤怒( fume的过去式和过去分词 )； 大怒； 发怒； 冒烟 | |
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84
fretted
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| 焦躁的，附有弦马的，腐蚀的 | |
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85
hatchet
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| n.短柄小斧；v.扼杀 | |
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86
sluggishly
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| adv.懒惰地；缓慢地 | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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88
ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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89
gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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doorways
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| n.门口，门道( doorway的名词复数 ) | |
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91
draught
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| n.拉，牵引，拖；一网（饮，吸，阵)；顿服药量，通风；v.起草，设计 | |
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92
vocation
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| n.职业，行业 | |
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93
dealing
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| n.经商方法，待人态度 | |
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94
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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aloof
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| adj.远离的；冷淡的，漠不关心的 | |
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96
amazement
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| n.惊奇，惊讶 | |
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97
creditor
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| n.债仅人，债主，贷方 | |
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98
awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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99
bustling
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| adj.喧闹的 | |
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100
abounds
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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101
scour
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| v.搜索；擦，洗，腹泻，冲刷 | |
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102
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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103
stunned
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| adj. 震惊的，惊讶的 动词stun的过去式和过去分词 | |
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104
computing
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| n.计算 | |
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105
ravages
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| 劫掠后的残迹，破坏的结果，毁坏后的残迹 | |
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106
proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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107
adviser
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| n.劝告者，顾问 | |
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108
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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