It was indeed a remarkable2 town. The streets were alleys3, wood roofed in the main bazaar4, but elsewhere open to the sky in the little gap between the tops of the lofty white-walled houses. These were built four or five stories high, of coral rag tied with square beams and decorated by wide bow-windows running from ground to roof in grey wooden panels. There was no glass in Jidda, but a profusion5 of good lattices, and some very delicate shallow chiselling6 on the panels of window casings. The doors were heavy two-leaved slabs7 of teak-wood, deeply carved, often with wickets in them; and they had rich hinges and ring-knockers of hammered iron. There was much moulded or cut plastering, and on the older houses fine stone heads and jambs to the windows looking on the inner courts.
The style of architecture was like crazy Elizabethan half-timber work, in the elaborate Cheshire fashion, but gone gimcrack to an incredible degree. House-fronts were fretted8, pierced and pargetted till they looked as though cut out of cardboard for a romantic stage-setting. Every storey jutted9, every window leaned one way or other; often the very walls sloped. It was like a dead city, so clean underfoot, and so quiet. Its winding10, even streets were floored with damp sand solidified11 by time and as silent to the tread as any carpet. The lattices and wall-returns deadened all reverberation12 of voice. There were no carts, nor any streets wide enough for carts, no shod animals, no bustle13 anywhere. Everything was hushed, strained, even furtive14. The doors of houses shut softly as we passed. There were no loud dogs, no crying children: indeed, except in the bazaar, still half asleep, there were few wayfarers15 of any kind; and the rare people we did meet, all thin, and as it were wasted by disease, with scarred, hairless faces and screwed-up eyes, slipped past us quickly and cautiously, not looking at us. Their skimp16, white robes, shaven polls with little skull-caps, red cotton shoulder-shawls, and bare feet were so same as to be almost a uniform.
The atmosphere was oppressive, deadly. There seemed no life in it. It was not burning hot, but held a moisture and sense of great age and exhaustion17 such as seemed to belong to no other place: not a passion of smells like Smyrna, Naples or Marseilles, but a feeling of long use, of the exhalations of many people, of continued bath-heat and sweat. One would say that for years Jidda had not been swept through by a firm breeze: that its streets kept their air from year’s end to year’s end, from the day they were built for so long as the houses should endure. There was nothing in the bazaars18 to buy.
In the evening the telephone rang; and the Sherif called Storrs to the instrument. He asked if we would not like to listen to his band. Storrs, in astonishment19, asked What band? and congratulated his holiness on having advanced so far towards urbanity. The Sherif explained that the headquarters of the Hejaz Command under the Turks had had a brass20 band, which played each night to the Governor General; and when the Governor General was captured by Abdulla at Taif his band was captured with him. The other prisoners were sent to Egypt for internment21; but the band was excepted. It was held in Mecca to give music to the victors. Sherif Hussein laid his receiver on the table of his reception hall, and we, called solemnly one by one to the telephone, heard the band in the Palace at Mecca forty-five miles away. Storrs expressed the general gratification; and the Sherif, increasing his bounty22 replied that the band should be sent down by forced march to Jidda, to play in our courtyard also, ‘And,’ said he, ‘you may then do me the pleasure of ringing me up from your end, that I may share your satisfaction.’
Next day Storrs visited Abdulla in his tent out by Eve’s Tomb; and together they inspected the hospital, the barracks, the town offices, and partook of the hospitality of the Mayor and the Governor. In the intervals23 of duty they talked about money, and the Sherif s tide, and his relations with the other Princes of Arabia, and the general course of the war: all the commonplaces that should pass between envoys24 of two Governments. It was tedious, and for the most part I held myself excused, as after a conversation in the morning I had made up my mind that Abdulla was not the necessary leader. We had asked him to sketch25 the genesis of the Arab movement: and his reply illuminated26 his character. He had begun by a long description of Talaat, the first Turk to speak to him with concern of the restlessness of Hejaz. He wanted it properly subdued27, and military service, as elsewhere in the Empire, introduced.
Abdulla, to forestall28 him, had made a plan of peaceful insurrection for Hejaz, and, after sounding Kitchener without profit, had dated it provisionally for 1915. He had meant to call out the tribes during the feast, and lay hold of the pilgrims. They would have included many of the chief men of Turkey besides leading Moslems of Egypt, India, Java, Eritrea, and Algiers. With these thousands of hostages in his hands he had expected to win the notice of the Great Powers concerned. He thought they would bring pressure on the Porte to secure the release of their nationals. The Porte, powerless to deal with Hejaz militarily, would either have made concessions29 to the Sherif or have confessed its powerlessness to the foreign States. In the latter event, Abdulla would have approached them direct, ready to meet their demands in return for a guarantee of immunity30 from Turkey. I did not like his scheme, and was glad when he said with almost a sneer31 that Feisal in fear had begged his father not to follow it. This sounded good for Feisal, towards whom my hopes of a great leader were now slowly turning.
In the evening Abdulla came to dine with Colonel Wilson. We received him in the courtyard on the house steps. Behind him were his brilliant household servants and slaves, and behind them a pale crew of bearded, emaciated32 men with woe-begone faces, wearing tatters of military uniform, and carrying tarnished33 brass instruments of music. Abdulla waved his hand towards them and crowed with delight, ‘My Band’. We sat them on benches in the forecourt, and Wilson sent them cigarettes, while we went up to the dining room, where the shuttered balcony was opened right out, hungrily, for a sea breeze. As we sat down, the band, under the guns and swords of Abdulla’s retainers, began, each instrument apart, to play heartbroken Turkish airs. Our ears ached with noise; but Abdulla beamed.
Curious the party was. Abdulla himself, Vice-President in partibus of the Turkish Chamber34 and now Foreign Minister of the rebel Arab State; Wilson, Governor of the Red Sea Province of the Sudan, and His Majesty’s Minister with the Sherif of Mecca; Storrs, Oriental Secretary successively to Gorst, Kitchener and McMahon in Cairo; Young, Cochrane, and myself, hangers-on of the staff; Sayed Ali, a general in the Egyptian Army, commander of the detachment sent over by the Sirdar to help the first efforts of the Arabs; Aziz el Masri, now Chief of Staff of the Arab regular army, but in old days Enver’s rival, leader of the Turkish and Senussi forces against the Italians, chief conspirator35 of the Arab officers in the Turkish army against the Committee of union and Progress, a man condemned36 to death by the Turks for obeying the Treaty of Lausanne, and saved by The Times and Lord Kitchener.
We got tired of Turkish music, and asked for German. Aziz stepped out on the balcony and called down to the bandsmen in Turkish to play us something foreign. They struck shakily into ‘Deutschland uber Alles’ just as the Sherif came to his telephone in Mecca to listen to the music of our feast. We asked for more German music; and they played ‘Eine feste Burg’. Then in the midst they died away into flabby discords37 of drums. The parchment had stretched in the damp air of Jidda. They cried for fire; and Wilson’s servants and Abdulla’s bodyguard38 brought them piles of straw and packing cases. They warmed the drums, turning them round and round before the blaze, and then broke into what they said was the Hymn39 of Hate, though no one could recognize a European progression in it all. Sayed Ali turned to Abdulla and said, ‘It is a death march’. Abdulla’s eyes widened; but Storrs who spoke40 in quickly to the rescue turned the moment to laughter; and we sent out rewards with the leavings of the feast to the sorrowful musicians, who could take no pleasure in our praises, but begged to be sent home. Next morning I left Jidda by ship for Rabegh.
点击收听单词发音
1 consulate | |
n.领事馆 | |
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2 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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3 alleys | |
胡同,小巷( alley的名词复数 ); 小径 | |
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4 bazaar | |
n.集市,商店集中区 | |
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5 profusion | |
n.挥霍;丰富 | |
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6 chiselling | |
n.錾v.凿,雕,镌( chisel的现在分词 ) | |
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7 slabs | |
n.厚板,平板,厚片( slab的名词复数 );厚胶片 | |
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8 fretted | |
焦躁的,附有弦马的,腐蚀的 | |
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9 jutted | |
v.(使)突出( jut的过去式和过去分词 );伸出;(从…)突出;高出 | |
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10 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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11 solidified | |
(使)成为固体,(使)变硬,(使)变得坚固( solidify的过去式和过去分词 ); 使团结一致; 充实,巩固; 具体化 | |
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12 reverberation | |
反响; 回响; 反射; 反射物 | |
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13 bustle | |
v.喧扰地忙乱,匆忙,奔忙;n.忙碌;喧闹 | |
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14 furtive | |
adj.鬼鬼崇崇的,偷偷摸摸的 | |
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15 wayfarers | |
n.旅人,(尤指)徒步旅行者( wayfarer的名词复数 ) | |
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16 skimp | |
v.节省花费,吝啬 | |
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17 exhaustion | |
n.耗尽枯竭,疲惫,筋疲力尽,竭尽,详尽无遗的论述 | |
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18 bazaars | |
(东方国家的)市场( bazaar的名词复数 ); 义卖; 义卖市场; (出售花哨商品等的)小商品市场 | |
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19 astonishment | |
n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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20 brass | |
n.黄铜;黄铜器,铜管乐器 | |
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21 internment | |
n.拘留 | |
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22 bounty | |
n.慷慨的赠予物,奖金;慷慨,大方;施与 | |
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23 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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24 envoys | |
使节( envoy的名词复数 ); 公使; 谈判代表; 使节身份 | |
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25 sketch | |
n.草图;梗概;素描;v.素描;概述 | |
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26 illuminated | |
adj.被照明的;受启迪的 | |
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27 subdued | |
adj. 屈服的,柔和的,减弱的 动词subdue的过去式和过去分词 | |
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28 forestall | |
vt.抢在…之前采取行动;预先阻止 | |
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29 concessions | |
n.(尤指由政府或雇主给予的)特许权( concession的名词复数 );承认;减价;(在某地的)特许经营权 | |
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30 immunity | |
n.优惠;免除;豁免,豁免权 | |
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31 sneer | |
v.轻蔑;嘲笑;n.嘲笑,讥讽的言语 | |
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32 emaciated | |
adj.衰弱的,消瘦的 | |
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33 tarnished | |
(通常指金属)(使)失去光泽,(使)变灰暗( tarnish的过去式和过去分词 ); 玷污,败坏 | |
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34 chamber | |
n.房间,寝室;会议厅;议院;会所 | |
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35 conspirator | |
n.阴谋者,谋叛者 | |
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36 condemned | |
adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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37 discords | |
不和(discord的复数形式) | |
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38 bodyguard | |
n.护卫,保镖 | |
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39 hymn | |
n.赞美诗,圣歌,颂歌 | |
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40 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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