Inland from Poole the country is pleasantly varied6 by hills and heaths, through which, on the west side of the harbour, the verge7 of Bournemouth is reached, and an hour's walk will take the pilgrim over the Hampshire boundary.
Poole Quay8, where we smell the smell of tar9, piled-up teak and reeking10 pine, is an interesting place for lovers of the picturesque11. Here we find an old postern gate of Richard III.'s day, and the Town Cellar or Wool House. The last recalls the days when Poole was part of the manor12 of Canford. The lords of Canford sometimes received toll13 in kind, and the goods handed over were stored in this "Town Cellar." It is particularly interesting for the way its walls are formed, of flint and large, squared pieces of stone.
The smuggling14 for which Poole was long notorious is handed down to posterity15 by the following doggerel:—
"If Poole was a fish-pool, and the men of Poole fish,
There'd be a pool for the devil, and fish for his dish."
One of the most daring and successful of English buccaneers was Harry16 Page of Poole, or, as he was more commonly called, Arripay. His enterprises were principally directed against the coasts of France and Spain, where he committed such havoc17 that a formidable expedition was fitted out in those countries to destroy him. It sailed along our southern shores, destroying as opportunity offered, until it reached Poole. Here it landed, and a battle ensued, in which the inhabitants were driven from the town and the brother of Arripay killed.
The island of Brownsea or Branksea (it has a score of other variations) is the most prominent feature in Poole Harbour. It is ovoid in shape, about one and a half miles long by one mile broad, and lies just within the narrow harbour entrance, the main channel sweeping18 round its eastern side. This made the island of considerable importance in the defence of the port, and led to the erection of Brownsea Castle towards the end of the reign19 of Henry VIII. Prior to this Brownsea had been part of the possessions of the Abbey of Cerne. The castle was almost wholly destroyed by fire in 1896, and in the following year rebuilt.
From Poole the pilgrim can cross by the toll-bridge to Hamworth and visit Lytchett Minster, which is two miles north-west of the lonely railway junction20. Part of the action of The Hand of Ethelberta takes place in this neighbourhood. The sign of one of the village inns, "St Peter's Finger," is one of the most interesting features of Lytchett Minster. The sign shows St Peter holding up a hand with two extended fingers, and is a curious instance of the way in which old terms and traditions are exposed to corruption21. Sir B. Windle explains the matter tersely22 and clearly: "August the 1st, Lammas Day, known in the calendar of the Catholic Church as St Peter ad Vincula, was one of the days on which prædial service had to be done for the lord of certain manors23, as a condition of tenure24 by the occupants. Such lands were called St Peter-ad-Vincula lands, a term which easily got corrupted25 into St Peter's finger."
A brief description of Poole—under the Wessex name of "Havenpool"—is given in Hardy26's "To please his Wife," one of the short stories of Life's Little Ironies27. It is the story of Captain Shadrack Jolliff, who gave up the sea and settled down in his native town as a grocer, marrying Joanna Phippard. They had two sons, but the captain did not make much progress in business and his wife persuaded him to go to sea again, as they were in need of money. He bought a small vessel28 and went into the Newfoundland trade, returning home with his makings, which were deemed insufficient29 by his wife. Accordingly he resolved to make another voyage, and take his sons with him so that his profits might be more considerable. From this voyage they never returned, and Joanna was left penniless. She spent the rest of her life expecting the return of her husband and sons.
It is evident that Hardy chose the name of Jolliff from his counterpart in real life, an honest, deep-hearted son of Poole, Peter Jolliff by name, master of the Sea Adventurer. Off Swanage, in 1694, with only the aid of a small boy, he captured a French privateer and made its crew prisoners of war. He secured royal recognition for this bold act and received a gold chain and medal from the hands of the King.
To the pilgrim who seeks things of antique beauty and interest on foot, with staff and wallet, in the old way, I cannot recommend a more enjoyable route than along the coast from Poole to Lyme, which may be covered in a week. But to do the thing comfortably ten days would be more advisable. Here is the itinerary30 if a week is taken. First day, borders of Poole Harbour by Studland to Swanage; second day, Swanage to West Lulworth; the third, Lulworth by Osmington to Weymouth; the fourth, Weymouth and Portland; the fifth, Weymouth by Abbotsbury to Bridport; and the sixth, Bridport to Lyme. Should the walker allow himself a few extra days he might give an extra day to Purbeck, to visit Corfe Castle, pay a visit to Dorchester, and to give himself two days between Weymouth and Bridport, halting midway at Abbotsbury.
点击收听单词发音
1 ebb | |
vi.衰退,减退;n.处于低潮,处于衰退状态 | |
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2 mar | |
vt.破坏,毁坏,弄糟 | |
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3 prospect | |
n.前景,前途;景色,视野 | |
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4 marine | |
adj.海的;海生的;航海的;海事的;n.水兵 | |
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5 haven | |
n.安全的地方,避难所,庇护所 | |
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6 varied | |
adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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7 verge | |
n.边,边缘;v.接近,濒临 | |
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8 quay | |
n.码头,靠岸处 | |
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9 tar | |
n.柏油,焦油;vt.涂或浇柏油/焦油于 | |
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10 reeking | |
v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的现在分词 );散发臭气;发出难闻的气味 (of sth);明显带有(令人不快或生疑的跡象) | |
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11 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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12 manor | |
n.庄园,领地 | |
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13 toll | |
n.过路(桥)费;损失,伤亡人数;v.敲(钟) | |
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14 smuggling | |
n.走私 | |
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15 posterity | |
n.后裔,子孙,后代 | |
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16 harry | |
vt.掠夺,蹂躏,使苦恼 | |
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17 havoc | |
n.大破坏,浩劫,大混乱,大杂乱 | |
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18 sweeping | |
adj.范围广大的,一扫无遗的 | |
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19 reign | |
n.统治时期,统治,支配,盛行;v.占优势 | |
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20 junction | |
n.连接,接合;交叉点,接合处,枢纽站 | |
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21 corruption | |
n.腐败,堕落,贪污 | |
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22 tersely | |
adv. 简捷地, 简要地 | |
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23 manors | |
n.庄园(manor的复数形式) | |
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24 tenure | |
n.终身职位;任期;(土地)保有权,保有期 | |
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25 corrupted | |
(使)败坏( corrupt的过去式和过去分词 ); (使)腐化; 引起(计算机文件等的)错误; 破坏 | |
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26 hardy | |
adj.勇敢的,果断的,吃苦的;耐寒的 | |
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27 ironies | |
n.反语( irony的名词复数 );冷嘲;具有讽刺意味的事;嘲弄 | |
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28 vessel | |
n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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29 insufficient | |
adj.(for,of)不足的,不够的 | |
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30 itinerary | |
n.行程表,旅行路线;旅行计划 | |
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