May 12th — landed to-day at Norfolk Island, and have been introduced to my new abode1, situated2 some eleven hundred miles from Sydney. A solitary3 rock in the tropical ocean, the island seems, indeed, a fit place of banishment4. It is about seven miles long and four broad. The most remarkable5 natural object is, of course, the Norfolk Island pine, which rears its stately head a hundred feet above the surrounding forest. The appearance of the place is very wild and beautiful, bringing to my mind the description of the romantic islands of the Pacific, which old geographers6 dwell upon so fondly. Lemon, lime, and guava trees abound7, also oranges, grapes, figs8, bananas, peaches, pomegranates, and pine-apples. The climate just now is hot and muggy9. The approach to Kingstown — as the barracks and huts are called — is properly difficult. A long low reef — probably originally a portion of the barren rocks of Nepean and Philip Islands, which rise east and west of the settlement — fronts the bay and obstructs10 the entrance of vessels12. We were landed in boats through an opening in this reef, and our vessel11 stands on and off within signalling distance. The surf washes almost against the walls of the military roadway that leads to the barracks. The social aspect of the place fills me with horror. There seems neither discipline nor order. On our way to the Commandant’s house we passed a low dilapidated building where men were grinding maize13, and at the sight of us they commenced whistling, hooting14, and shouting, using the most disgusting language. Three warders were near, but no attempt was made to check this unseemly exhibition. May 14th.— I sit down to write with as much reluctance16 as though I were about to relate my experience of a journey through a sewer17. First to the prisoners’ barracks, which stand on an area of about three acres, surrounded by a lofty wall. A road runs between this wall and the sea. The barracks are three storeys high, and hold seven hundred and ninety men (let me remark here that there are more than two thousand men on the island). There are twenty-two wards18 in this place. Each ward15 runs the depth of the building, viz., eighteen feet, and in consequence is simply a funnel19 for hot or cold air to blow through. When the ward is filled, the men’s heads lie under the windows. The largest ward contains a hundred men, the smallest fifteen. They sleep in hammocks, slung20 close to each other as on board ship, in two lines, with a passage down the centre. There is a wardsman to each ward. He is selected by the prisoners, and is generally a man of the worst character. He is supposed to keep order, but of course he never attempts to do so; indeed, as he is locked up in the ward every night from six o’clock in the evening until sunrise, without light, it is possible that he might get maltreated did he make himself obnoxious21.
The barracks look upon the Barrack Square, which is filled with lounging prisoners. The windows of the hospital-ward also look upon Barrack Square, and the prisoners are in constant communication with the patients. The hospital is a low stone building, capable of containing about twenty men, and faces the beach. I placed my hands on the wall, and found it damp. An ulcerous22 prisoner said the dampness was owing to the heavy surf constantly rolling so close beneath the building. There are two gaols23, the old and the new. The old gaol24 stands near the sea, close to the landing-place. Outside it, at the door, is the Gallows25. I touched it as I passed in. This engine is the first thing which greets the eyes of a newly-arrived prisoner. The new gaol is barely completed, is of pentagonal shape, and has eighteen radiating cells of a pattern approved by some wiseacre in England, who thinks that to prevent a man from seeing his fellowmen is not the way to drive him mad. In the old gaol are twenty-four prisoners, all heavily ironed, awaiting trial by the visiting Commission, from Hobart Town. Some of these poor ruffians, having committed their offences just after the last sitting of the Commission, have already been in gaol upwards26 of eleven months!
At six o’clock we saw the men mustered28. I read prayers before the muster27, and was surprised to find that some of the prisoners attended, while some strolled about the yard, whistling, singing, and joking. The muster is a farce29. The prisoners are not mustered outside and then marched to their wards, but they rush into the barracks indiscriminately, and place themselves dressed or undressed in their hammocks. A convict sub-overseer then calls out the names, and somebody replies. If an answer is returned to each name, all is considered right. The lights are taken away, and save for a few minutes at eight o’clock, when the good-conduct men are let in, the ruffians are left to their own devices until morning. Knowing what I know of the customs of the convicts, my heart sickens when I in imagination put myself in the place of a newly-transported man, plunged30 from six at night until daybreak into that foetid den31 of worse than wild beasts.
May 15th.— There is a place enclosed between high walls adjoining the convict barracks, called the Lumber32 Yard. This is where the prisoners mess. It is roofed on two sides, and contains tables and benches. Six hundred men can mess here perhaps, but as seven hundred are always driven into it, it follows that the weakest men are compelled to sit on the ground. A more disorderly sight than this yard at meal times I never beheld33. The cook-houses are adjoining it, and the men bake their meal-bread there. Outside the cook-house door the firewood is piled, and fires are made in all directions on the ground, round which sit the prisoners, frying their rations34 of fresh pork, baking their hominy cakes, chatting, and even smoking.
The Lumber Yard is a sort of Alsatia, to which the hunted prisoner retires. I don’t think the boldest constable35 on the island would venture into that place to pick out a man from the seven hundred. If he did go in I don’t think he would come out again alive.
May 16th.— A sub-overseer, a man named Hankey, has been talking to me. He says that there are some forty of the oldest and worst prisoners who form what he calls the “Ring”, and that the members of this “Ring” are bound by oath to support each other, and to avenge36 the punishment of any of their number. In proof of his assertions he instanced two cases of English prisoners who had refused to join in some crime, and had informed the Commandant of the proceedings37 of the Ring. They were found in the morning strangled in their hammocks. An inquiry38 was held, but not a man out of the ninety in the ward would speak a word. I dread39 the task that is before me. How can I attempt to preach piety40 and morality to these men? How can I attempt even to save the less villainous?
May 17th.— Visited the wards to-day, and returned in despair. The condition of things is worse than I expected. It is not to be written. The newly-arrived English prisoners — and some of their histories are most touching41 — are insulted by the language and demeanour of the hardened miscreants42 who are the refuse of Port Arthur and Cockatoo Island. The vilest44 crimes are perpetrated as jests. These are creatures who openly defy authority, whose language and conduct is such as was never before seen or heard out of Bedlam45. There are men who are known to have murdered their companions, and who boast of it. With these the English farm labourer, the riotous46 and ignorant mechanic, the victim of perjury47 or mistake, are indiscriminately herded48. With them are mixed Chinamen from Hong Kong, the Aborigines of New Holland, West Indian blacks, Greeks, Caffres, and Malays, soldiers for desertion, idiots, madmen, pig-stealers, and pick-pockets. The dreadful place seems set apart for all that is hideous49 and vile43 in our common nature. In its recklessness, its insubordination, its filth50, and its despair, it realizes to my mind the popular notion of Hell.
May 21st.— Entered to-day officially upon my duties as Religious Instructor51 at the Settlement.
An occurrence took place this morning which shows the dangerous condition of the Ring. I accompanied Mr. Pounce52 to the Lumber Yard, and, on our entry, we observed a man in the crowd round the cook-house deliberately53 smoking. The Chief Constable of the Island — my old friend Troke, of Port Arthur — seeing that this exhibition attracted Pounce’s notice, pointed54 out the man to an assistant. The assistant, Jacob Gimblett, advanced and desired the prisoner to surrender the pipe. The man plunged his hands into his pockets, and, with a gesture of the most profound contempt, walked away to that part of the mess-shed where the “Ring” congregate55.
“Take the scoundrel to gaol!” cried Troke.
No one moved, but the man at the gate that leads through the carpenter’s shop into the barracks, called to us to come out, saying that the prisoners would never suffer the man to be taken. Pounce, however, with more determination than I gave him credit for, kept his ground, and insisted that so flagrant a breach56 of discipline should not be suffered to pass unnoticed. Thus urged, Mr. Troke pushed through the crowd, and made for the spot whither the man had withdrawn57 himself.
The yard was buzzing like a disturbed hive, and I momentarily expected that a rush would be made upon us. In a few moments the prisoner appeared, attended by, rather than in the custody58 of, the Chief Constable of the island. He advanced to the unlucky assistant constable, who was standing59 close to me, and asked, “What have you ordered me to gaol for?” The man made some reply, advising him to go quietly, when the convict raised his fist and deliberately felled the man to the ground. “You had better retire, gentlemen,” said Troke. “I see them getting out their knives.”
We made for the gate, and the crowd closed in like a sea upon the two constables60. I fully61 expected murder, but in a few moments Troke and Gimblett appeared, borne along by a mass of men, dusty, but unharmed, and having the convict between them. He sulkily raised a hand as he passed me, either to rectify62 the position of his straw hat, or to offer a tardy63 apology. A more wanton, unprovoked, and flagrant outrage64 than that of which this man was guilty I never witnessed. It is customary for “the old dogs”, as the experienced convicts are called, to use the most opprobrious65 language to their officers, and to this a deaf ear is usually turned, but I never before saw a man wantonly strike a constable. I fancy that the act was done out of bravado66. Troke informed me that the man’s name is Rufus Dawes, and that he is the leader of the Ring, and considered the worst man on the island; that to secure him he (Troke) was obliged to use the language of expostulation; and that, but for the presence of an officer accredited67 by his Excellency, he dared not have acted as he had done.
This is the same man, then, whom I injured at Port Arthur. Seven years of “discipline” don’t seem to have done him much good. His sentence is “life”— a lifetime in this place! Troke says that he was the terror of Port Arthur, and that they sent him here when a “weeding” of the prisoners was made. He has been here four years. Poor wretch68!
May 24th.— After prayers, I saw Dawes. He was confined in the Old Gaol, and seven others were in the cell with him. He came out at my request, and stood leaning against the door-post. He was much changed from the man I remember. Seven years ago he was a stalwart, upright, handsome man. He has become a beetle-browed, sullen69, slouching ruffian. His hair is grey, though he cannot be more than forty years of age, and his frame has lost that just proportion of parts which once made him almost graceful70. His face has also grown like other convict faces — how hideously71 alike they all are!— and, save for his black eyes and a peculiar72 trick he had of compressing his lips, I should not have recognized him. How habitual73 sin and misery74 suffice to brutalize “the human face divine”! I said but little, for the other prisoners were listening, eager, as it appeared to me, to witness my discomfiture75. It is evident that Rufus Dawes had been accustomed to meet the ministrations of my predecessors76 with insolence77. I spoke78 to him for a few minutes, only saying how foolish it was to rebel against an authority superior in strength to himself. He did not answer, and the only emotion he evinced during the interview was when I reminded him that we had met before. He shrugged79 one shoulder, as if in pain or anger, and seemed about to speak, but, casting his eyes upon the group in the cell, relapsed into silence again. I must get speech with him alone. One can do nothing with a man if seven other devils worse than himself are locked up with him.
I sent for Hankey, and asked him about cells. He says that the gaol is crowded to suffocation80. “Solitary confinement81” is a mere82 name. There are six men, each sentenced to solitary confinement, in a cell together. The cell is called the “nunnery”. It is small, and the six men were naked to the waist when I entered, the perspiration83 pouring in streams off their naked bodies! It is disgusting to write of such things.
June 26th.— Pounce has departed in the Lady Franklin for Hobart Town, and it is rumoured84 that we are to have a new Commandant. The Lady Franklin is commanded by an old man named Blunt, a protegé of Frere’s, and a fellow to whom I have taken one of my inexplicable85 and unreasoning dislikes.
Saw Rufus Dawes this morning. He continues sullen and morose86. His papers are very bad. He is perpetually up for punishment. I am informed that he and a man named Eastwood, nicknamed “Jacky Jacky”, glory in being the leaders of the Ring, and that they openly avow87 themselves weary of life. Can it be that the unmerited flogging which the poor creature got at Port Arthur has aided, with other sufferings, to bring him to this horrible state of mind? It is quite possible. Oh, James North, remember your own crime, and pray Heaven to let you redeem88 one soul at least, to plead for your own at the Judgment89 Seat.
June 30th.— I took a holiday this afternoon, and walked in the direction of Mount Pitt. The island lay at my feet like — as sings Mrs. Frere’s favourite poet —“a summer isle90 of Eden lying in dark purple sphere of sea”. Sophocles has the same idea in the Philoctetes, but I can’t quote it. Note: I measured a pine twenty-three feet in circumference91. I followed a little brook92 that runs from the hills, and winds through thick undergrowths of creeper and blossom, until it reaches a lovely valley surrounded by lofty trees, whose branches, linked together by the luxurious93 grape-vine, form an arching bower94 of verdure. Here stands the ruin of an old hut, formerly95 inhabited by the early settlers; lemons, figs, and guavas are thick; while amid the shrub96 and cane97 a large convolvulus is entwined, and stars the green with its purple and crimson98 flowers. I sat down here, and had a smoke. It seems that the former occupant of my rooms at the settlement read French; for in searching for a book to bring with me — I never walk without a book — I found and pocketed a volume of Balzac. It proved to be a portion of the Vie Priveé series, and I stumbled upon a story called La Fausse Maitresse. With calm belief in the Paris of his imagination — where Marcas was a politician, Nucingen a banker, Gobseck a money-lender, and Vautrin a candidate for some such place as this — Balzac introduces me to a Pole by name Paz, who, loving the wife of his friend, devotes himself to watch over her happiness and her husband’s interest. The husband gambles and is profligate99. Paz informs the wife that the leanness which hazard and debauchery have caused to the domestic exchequer100 is due to his extravagance, the husband having lent him money. She does not believe, and Paz feigns101 an intrigue102 with a circus-rider in order to lull103 all suspicions. She says to her adored spouse104, “Get rid of this extravagant105 friend! Away with him! He is a profligate, a gambler! A drunkard!” Paz finally departs, and when he has gone, the lady finds out the poor Pole’s worth. The story does not end satisfactorily. Balzac was too great a master of his art for that. In real life the curtain never falls on a comfortably-finished drama. The play goes on eternally.
I have been thinking of the story all evening. A man who loves his friend’s wife, and devotes his energies to increase her happiness by concealing106 from her her husband’s follies107! Surely none but Balzac would have hit upon such a notion. “A man who loves his friend’s wife."— Asmodeus, I write no more! I have ceased to converse108 with thee for so long that I blush to confess all that I have in my heart.— I will not confess it, so that shall suffice.
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1
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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banishment
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| n.放逐，驱逐 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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geographers
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| 地理学家( geographer的名词复数 ) | |
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abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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figs
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| figures 数字，图形，外形 | |
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muggy
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| adj.闷热的；adv.（天气）闷热而潮湿地；n.（天气）闷热而潮湿 | |
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obstructs
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| 阻塞( obstruct的第三人称单数 )； 堵塞； 阻碍； 阻止 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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maize
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| n.玉米 | |
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hooting
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| （使）作汽笛声响，作汽车喇叭声( hoot的现在分词 )； 倒好儿； 倒彩 | |
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ward
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| n.守卫，监护，病房，行政区，由监护人或法院保护的人（尤指儿童）；vt.守护，躲开 | |
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reluctance
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| n.厌恶，讨厌，勉强，不情愿 | |
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sewer
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| n.排水沟，下水道 | |
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wards
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| 区( ward的名词复数 )； 病房； 受监护的未成年者； 被人照顾或控制的状态 | |
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funnel
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| n.漏斗；烟囱；v.汇集 | |
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slung
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| 抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往 | |
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obnoxious
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| adj.极恼人的，讨人厌的，可憎的 | |
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ulcerous
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| adj.溃疡性的，患溃疡的 | |
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gaols
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| 监狱，拘留所( gaol的名词复数 ) | |
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gaol
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| n.(jail)监狱；(不加冠词)监禁；vt.使…坐牢 | |
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gallows
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| n.绞刑架，绞台 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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muster
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| v.集合，收集，鼓起，激起；n.集合，检阅，集合人员，点名册 | |
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mustered
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| v.集合，召集，集结（尤指部队）( muster的过去式和过去分词 )；（自他人处）搜集某事物；聚集；激发 | |
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farce
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| n.闹剧，笑剧，滑稽戏；胡闹 | |
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plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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den
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| n.兽穴；秘密地方；安静的小房间，私室 | |
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lumber
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| n.木材，木料；v.以破旧东西堆满；伐木；笨重移动 | |
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beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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rations
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| 定量( ration的名词复数 )； 配给量； 正常量； 合理的量 | |
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constable
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| n.(英国)警察，警官 | |
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avenge
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| v.为...复仇，为...报仇 | |
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proceedings
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| n.进程，过程，议程；诉讼(程序)；公报 | |
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inquiry
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| n.打听，询问，调查，查问 | |
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dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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miscreants
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| n.恶棍，歹徒( miscreant的名词复数 ) | |
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vile
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| adj.卑鄙的，可耻的，邪恶的；坏透的 | |
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vilest
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| adj.卑鄙的( vile的最高级 )；可耻的；极坏的；非常讨厌的 | |
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bedlam
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| n.混乱，骚乱；疯人院 | |
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riotous
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| adj.骚乱的；狂欢的 | |
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perjury
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| n.伪证；伪证罪 | |
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herded
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| 群集，纠结( herd的过去式和过去分词 )； 放牧； （使）向…移动 | |
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hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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filth
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| n.肮脏，污物，污秽；淫猥 | |
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instructor
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| n.指导者，教员，教练 | |
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pounce
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| n.猛扑；v.猛扑，突然袭击，欣然同意 | |
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deliberately
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| adv.审慎地；蓄意地；故意地 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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congregate
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| v.(使)集合，聚集 | |
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breach
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| n.违反，不履行；破裂；vt.冲破，攻破 | |
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withdrawn
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| vt.收回；使退出；vi.撤退，退出 | |
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custody
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| n.监护，照看，羁押，拘留 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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constables
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| n.警察( constable的名词复数 ) | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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rectify
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| v.订正，矫正，改正 | |
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tardy
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| adj.缓慢的，迟缓的 | |
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outrage
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| n.暴行，侮辱，愤怒；vt.凌辱，激怒 | |
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opprobrious
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| adj.可耻的，辱骂的 | |
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66
bravado
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| n.虚张声势，故作勇敢，逞能 | |
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67
accredited
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| adj.可接受的；可信任的；公认的；质量合格的v.相信( accredit的过去式和过去分词 )；委托；委任；把…归结于 | |
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68
wretch
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| n.可怜的人，不幸的人；卑鄙的人 | |
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69
sullen
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| adj.愠怒的，闷闷不乐的，(天气等)阴沉的 | |
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graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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71
hideously
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| adv.可怕地，非常讨厌地 | |
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72
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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73
habitual
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| adj.习惯性的；通常的，惯常的 | |
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misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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discomfiture
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| n.崩溃；大败；挫败；困惑 | |
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predecessors
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| n.前任( predecessor的名词复数 )；前辈；（被取代的）原有事物；前身 | |
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77
insolence
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| n.傲慢；无礼；厚颜；傲慢的态度 | |
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78
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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79
shrugged
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| vt.耸肩（shrug的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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suffocation
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| n.窒息 | |
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81
confinement
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| n.幽禁，拘留，监禁；分娩；限制，局限 | |
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82
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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83
perspiration
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| n.汗水；出汗 | |
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84
rumoured
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| adj.谣传的；传说的；风 | |
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85
inexplicable
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| adj.无法解释的，难理解的 | |
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86
morose
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| adj.脾气坏的，不高兴的 | |
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87
avow
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| v.承认，公开宣称 | |
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88
redeem
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| v.买回，赎回，挽回，恢复，履行（诺言等） | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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isle
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| n.小岛，岛 | |
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circumference
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| n.圆周，周长，圆周线 | |
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brook
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| n.小河，溪；v.忍受，容让 | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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bower
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| n.凉亭，树荫下凉快之处；闺房；v.荫蔽 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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shrub
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| n.灌木，灌木丛 | |
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97
cane
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| n.手杖，细长的茎，藤条；v.以杖击，以藤编制的 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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99
profligate
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| adj.行为不检的；n.放荡的人，浪子，肆意挥霍者 | |
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100
exchequer
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| n.财政部；国库 | |
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101
feigns
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| 假装，伪装( feign的第三人称单数 )； 捏造（借口、理由等） | |
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102
intrigue
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| vt.激起兴趣，迷住；vi.耍阴谋；n.阴谋，密谋 | |
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103
lull
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| v.使安静，使入睡，缓和，哄骗；n.暂停，间歇 | |
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104
spouse
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| n.配偶(指夫或妻) | |
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105
extravagant
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| adj.奢侈的；过分的；(言行等)放肆的 | |
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106
concealing
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的现在分词 ) | |
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107
follies
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| 罪恶，时事讽刺剧； 愚蠢，蠢笨，愚蠢的行为、思想或做法( folly的名词复数 ) | |
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108
converse
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| vi.谈话，谈天，闲聊；adv.相反的，相反 | |
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