As much poetry has been written in praise of John Bar-ley-corn as in praise of wine, woman, battles, heroes, Cupid’s darts6, and patent med-i-cines. And one dear old song, which seems to ring in my ears as I write, proclaimed that in the opinion of the author the nectar which the gods imbibed7 from golden goblets8 on the top of Mount Olympus was in reality cool, re-fresh-ing pale ale, quaffed9 out of pewter tankards. Whether this was so matters not, but as to the antiquity10 of beer as a beverage11 there can be no question; and however much the demand for other liquors may have slackened during the rolling on of time, John Barleycorn is still growing in public estimation. Breweries13 keep on {49} springing up all over the country, and those who purchase shares in them receive, for the most part, sub-stan-tial div-i-dends. “Beer and the Bible” have won more elections than any other combination; the organ-i-za-tion of the brewers has hitherto proved powerful enough to withstand all the slings15 and arrows of the Prohibition16 party, whilst there has been an enormous increase in the value of houses licensed17 to sell fermented19 refreshment20; and the name of Bass will “live on,” like Claudian, “through the centuries.”
There be more than one description of beer put before the public. I forget at this moment who was responsible for the “swipes” of my school days, which tasted like red ink—and I have sampled both—but I have always believed that the man-u-fac-turer—I do not believe him to have been a brewer14 at all—had a special spite against the rising generation, which he wished to die a lingering death. The “ninepenny” quaffed beneath the holy shade of Henry was good, sound, wholesome21 tipple22; but I fancy an inferior brand was poured forth23 to us at “half time” in the football field. Since those days I have tasted pretty nearly all sorts and conditions of beer, from the “Number One” Bass drawn24 from the wood in pewter pots, in a little hostelry just off the Waterloo Road—the very best according to my taste—to the awful stuff tasted, and only tasted, one Sunday in a charmingly rural-looking little inn, with a thatched roof—a licensed house which apparently26 laid itself out to entrap27 the daring and enterprising “bona fide traveller,” and whose malt liquor was apparently composed for {50} the most part of vinegar and dirty water, in which had been soaked quassia chips, salt, bloater-heads, and some of the thatch25 from the roof.
Beer was the current name in England for every description of malt liquor before the introduction of “the wicked weed called hops” from the Netherlands in 1524. According to the Alvismal, a didactic Scandinavian poem of the tenth century, this malt liquor was called ale amongst men, and beer by the gods; and it was probably from this Scandinavian poem that the author of the anything-but-didactic poem quoted above got his ideas as to the real nature of the beverage partaken of on Olympus. In the Eastern counties of England, and over the greater part of the kingdom, ale signifies strong, and beer small, malt liquor, but in the West these names mean exactly the reverse—which must be confusing in the extreme to the intelligent foreigner on his travels in search of facts and—refreshment. As now used, ale is distinguished29 from beer—I am alluding30 to the more civilized31 parts of our country—chiefly by its strength, and by the quantity of sugar remaining in it undecomposed. Strong ale is made from the best pale malt, and the fermentation is allowed to proceed slowly, and the ferment18 to be exhausted32 and separated. This, together with the large quantity of sugar still left undecomposed, enables the liquor to keep long, without requiring a large amount of hops.
The last few lines may give the reader the impression that the writer served his time in Burton-on-Trent; but this is not the case. I {51} have conveyed the bulk of my technical knowledge of brewing from standard works on the subject.
It will be gathered from some previous remarks that all is not beer that’s bitter; and although it would seem impossible to find a cleaner, healthier, or more strengthening drink than the “pure beer” of commerce, brewed33 from good English or Scotch34 barley12, Kentish hops, and fair spring-water, how about the wash sold in some licensed houses which is “fetched up” with foot-sugar, bittered with quassia, and mixed with salt and any nasty flavourer which is handy?
The old stories about the carcass of a horse placed in the London stout35, to give it “body,” and the mysterious disappearance36 of an Italian organ-grinder, together with his monkey and infernal machine, just outside a high-class brewery37, are probably apocryphal38. And although the ancients undoubtedly39 put a red cock—the older the better—into ale, on occasion, the nineteenth century Briton, for the most part, if the rooster be too tough to serve as a boiled bonne bouche with parsley-and-butter, usually makes Cock-a-Leekie of him. And thereby40 hangs a tale.
When my firm was running a small chicken-ranche we once reared an unfortunate fowl41, who had curvature of the spine42, almost from the fracture of his shell. He was a weakling, and his brethren and sistren, after the manner of birds, beasts, and fishes, who “go for” the an?mic and infirm, persecuted43 him exceedingly, and peeked44 most of his feathers off. Being a {52} merciful, and withal a thrifty45, poultry-farmer, I looked out an old parrot’s cage from the tool-shed, and in this cage installed the weakly cockerel. He was forthwith christened “Poor Richard,” and given little Benjamin’s share of the corn and wine, and cayenne pepper and—other things. And although his head was still slewed46 round to starboard, he thrived under his liberal nourishment47 and freedom from the assaults of his relatives.
Time flew on. I had been the “Northern Circuit,” in the pursuit of my then profession of reporter of the sport of kings. I returned home late on a Saturday night, and next day we had friends to dinner. So much North Country language, and so much travelling about had quite put our feathered and afflicted48 pensioner49 out of my head; and even the fact of our having the favourite broth50 of His Majesty51 King James the First for dinner did not suggest anything to my busy brain. But afterwards, when we were alone—she ought not to have done it—my life-partner confided52 to me that I had helped to eat “Poor Richard”! And I felt like a very cannibal; and mourned the bird as a brother.
But to return. In Queen Elizabeth’s reign28 it was, I used to believe, a capital offence to put hops into beer. But these are the directions for
Brewing of Strong Ale,
issued by one Gervase Markham, an authority on the subject, and a contemporary of Shakespeare; and in these directions “hops” are distinctly mentioned as one of the component53 parts of the brew4. {53}
Now for the brewing of strong Ale, because it is drinke of no such long lasting54 as Beere is, therefore you shall brew lesse quantity at a time thereof, as two bushels of Northerne measure (which is foure bushels or halfe a quarter in the South) at a brewing, and not above, which will make foureteene gallons of the best Ale. Now for the mashing56 and ordering of it in the mash55-fat, it will not differ any thing from that of Beere; as for hops, although some use not to put in any, yet the best Brewers thereof will allow to foureteene gallons of Ale a good espen full of hops, and no more, yet before you put in your hops, as soone as you take it from the graines, you shall put it into a vessell, and change it, or blinke it in this manner: Put into the Wort a handfull of Oke-bowes and a pewter dish, and let them lye therein till the Wort looke a little paler than it did at the first, and then presently take out the dish and the leafe, and then boile it a full houre with the hops, as aforesayd, and then clense it, and set it in vessels58 to cook; when it is milk-warme, having set your Barme to rise with some sweete Wort; then put all into the guilfat, and as soone as it riseth, with a dishe or bowle beate it in, and so keepe it with continuall beating a day and a night, and after run it. From this Ale you may also draw halfe so much very good middle Ale, and a third part very good small Ale.
Another way
To make Strong Beer
was published at a later date than the above, and to my thinking is not a better way.
To a barrel of beer take two bushels of malt and half a bushel of wheat just crackt in the mill, and some of the flour lifted out of it; when your {54} water is scalding hot, put it in your mashing-fat; there let it stand till you can see your face in it; then put your malt upon it, then put your wheat upon that, and do not stir it; let it stand two hours and a half; then let it run into a tub that has two pounds of hops in it, and a handful of rosemary flowers, and when ’tis all run put it in your copper59 and boil it two hours; then strain it off, setting it a-cooling very thin, and set it a-working very cool; clear it very well before you put it a-working, put a little yeast60 to it; when the yeast begins to fall, put it into your vessel57, and when it has done working in the vessel, put in a pint61 of whole wheat and six eggs; then stop it up, let it stand a year, and then bottle it. Then mash again, stir the malt very well in, and let it stand two hours, and let that run, and mash again, and stir it as before; be sure you cover your mashing-fat well up, mix the first and second running together; it will make good household beer.
I rather fancy the blend-ing of a lot of eggs (pre-sum-ably new-laid) with the mash, would “break” some of the smal-ler brewers. It could hardly be done at the price.
The Germans make
Beer Soup.
Whether this is made from British or lager beer is not stated in the recipe before me, which hardly reads suited to the ordinary English palate.
I will now give a few modern recipes for tasty beer-compounds. {55}
Ale Cup (Cold).
Squeeze the juice of a lemon into a round of hot toast; lay on it a thin piece of the rind, a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a little grated nutmeg or powdered all-spice, and a sprig of balm. Pour over these one wine-glass of brandy, two of sherry, and three pints62 of mild ale. Do not allow the balm to remain in many minutes.
Ale Flip63 (Hot).
Put into a saucepan three pints of ale, a tablespoonful of sugar, a blade of mace64, a clove65, and a small piece of butter, and bring the liquor to a boil. Beat the white of one egg and the yolks of two thoroughly67, mixing with them a tablespoonful of cold ale. Mix all together, and then pour the whole rapidly from one large jug68 to another, from a good height—mind your fingers and the furniture—for some minutes, to froth it thoroughly. Do not allow it to get cool.
Ale Posset (Hot).
Boil a pint of new milk, and pour it over a slice of toasted bread. Stir in the beaten yolk66 of an egg and a small piece of butter, and sugar ad lib. Mix these with a pint of hot ale, and boil for a few minutes. When the scum rises the mixture is ready for use.
Mulled Ale (Very Hot).
Put half a pint of ale, a clove, a little whole ginger69, a piece of butter the size of a marble, and a teaspoonful70 of sugar into a saucepan, and bring {56} it to boiling-point. Beat two eggs with a tablespoonful of cold ale, and pour the boiling ale into them, and then into a large jug. Pass the whole from one jug to another, as in the case of Ale Flip, return to saucepan, and heat it again till almost, not quite, at boiling-point.
With regard to
Wassail, or Swig (Cold),
which used to be a very popular beverage at the uni-vers-i-ties—at one time it was peculiar71 to Jesus College, Oxford72—is of very ancient date indeed.
“Sir quod he,” is part of a conversation culled73 from an old MS., “Watsayll, for never days of your lyf ne dronk ye of such a cuppe,” which sounds as if the Watsayll was of a seductive and harmful nature. Nev-er-the-less here is the recipe, taken from “Oxford Nightcaps.”
Put into a bowl half a pound of Lisbon sugar (if you do not possess that brand, I have no doubt “best lump,” pulverized74, will do as well), and pour on it one pint of warm beer; grate a nutmeg and some ginger into it; add four glasses of sherry and five additional pints of beer; stir it well and sweeten to taste; let it stand covered up two or three hours, then put three or four slices of bread cut thin and toasted brown into it, and it is fit for use. Sometimes two or three slices of lemon are introduced, together with a few lumps of sugar rubbed on the peel of a lemon. Bottle this mixture, and in a few days it may be drunk in a state of effervescence.
On the festival of St. David, an immense silver-gilt bowl, the gift of Sir Watkin W. Wynne to {57} the college in 1732 is filled with this “swig,” and passed round, at Jesus College. And I should prefer to call the beverage “swig” instead of “wassail,” which should properly be a hot drink, if we are to believe the illustrated75 papers at Christmas-time. And there is no toast in the orthodox Wassail, but, instead, roasted apples. What does Puck say in A Midsummer Night’s Dream?
Sometime lurk76 I in a gossip’s bowl,
In very likeness77 of a roasted crab78,
And when she drinks against her lips I bob,
And on her wither’d dewlaps pour the ale.
Brown Betty
Here is another old recipe:—
Dissolve a quarter of a pound of brown sugar in one pint of water, slice a lemon into it, let it stand a quarter of an hour, then add a small quantity of pulverised cloves79 and cinnamon, half a pint of brandy, and one quart of good strong ale; stir it well together, put a couple of slices of toasted bread in it, grate some nutmeg and ginger over the toast, and it is fit for use. Ice it well, and it will prove a good summer, warm it and it will become a pleasant winter, beverage. It is drunk chiefly at dinner.
Rather heavily loaded for a dinner drink, I should say.
Another recipe for
Ale Flip
will serve, here. {58}
Beat well together in a jug, four eggs with a quarter of a pound of sifted80 sugar; then add by degrees, stirring all the time, two quarts of old Burton ale, and half a pint of gin; pour backwards81 and forwards from one jug to another, and when well frothed serve in tumblers. Grate a little nutmeg atop of each portion. This is one of the best “nightcaps” I know—especially after you may have been badger-hunting, or burgling, or serenading anybody on Christmas Eve.
Rumfustian.
Beat up in a jug, the yolks of two eggs with a tablespoonful of sifted sugar; then take half a pint of old Burton ale, one wine-glass of gin, one wine-glass of sherry, a little spice and lemon rind. Let the ale, wine, and gin, mixed together come to the boil, then pour in the egg mixture, whisking rapidly; serve hot, with a little nutmeg grated atop.
Such compound drinks, into which ale enters, as Shandy-gaff require no mention here. Suffice it to mention that this gaff has for many years been the favourite beverage of those who go up the river—there is but one river in England—in boats, whether schoolboys, or of riper years. In Stock Exchange circles champagne82 is occasionally substituted for ginger-beer, but this is a combination in which I have no implicit83 belief; although champagne and Guinness’s stout make an excellent mixture. Stout and bitter, otherwise known as
Mother-in-law,
and old-and-mild, for which the pet name is {59}
Uncle,
are also in much request amongst the groundlings; whilst during the warm weather I know of no more popular swallow, for moderate drinkers, who do not require their throats to be scratched, than a small bottle of lemonade to which is added just one “pull” of pale-ale. This is called, for the sake of brevity, a
Small Lem and a Dash,
or the Poor Man’s Champagne; and is a refreshing84 and innocuous drink which might commend itself to total abstainers.
In the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge there is probably as much malt liquor drunk per head as in any other part of the world.
Brasenose Ale
has obtained a reputation which the beverage doubtless fully85 merits. Since the foundation of this college a custom has prevailed of introducing into the refectory on Shrove Tuesday, immediately after dinner, what is denominated Brasenose Ale, but what is known in many other parts of England as Lamb’s Wool. Verses in praise of the Ale are—or at all events were—annually written by one of the undergraduates, and a copy of them is sent to every resident member of the College.
The following stanzas87 are taken from one of these contributions:— {60}
Shall all our singing now be o’er,
Since Christmas carols fail?
No?! Let us shout one stanza86 more
In praise of Brasenose Ale?!
A fig88 for Horace and his juice,
Falernian and Massic;
Far better drink can we produce,
Though ’tis not quite so classic.
Not all the liquors Rome e’er had
Can beat our matchless Beer;
Apicius’ self had gone stark89 mad
To taste such noble cheer.
After all, the potion is simplicity90 itself:—
Three quarts of ale, sweetened with sifted sugar, and served up in a bowl with six roasted apples floating in it.
点击收听单词发音
1 bass | |
n.男低音(歌手);低音乐器;低音大提琴 | |
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2 hops | |
跳上[下]( hop的第三人称单数 ); 单足蹦跳; 齐足(或双足)跳行; 摘葎草花 | |
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3 brewing | |
n. 酿造, 一次酿造的量 动词brew的现在分词形式 | |
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4 brew | |
v.酿造,调制 | |
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5 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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6 darts | |
n.掷飞镖游戏;飞镖( dart的名词复数 );急驰,飞奔v.投掷,投射( dart的第三人称单数 );向前冲,飞奔 | |
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7 imbibed | |
v.吸收( imbibe的过去式和过去分词 );喝;吸取;吸气 | |
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8 goblets | |
n.高脚酒杯( goblet的名词复数 ) | |
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9 quaffed | |
v.痛饮( quaff的过去式和过去分词 );畅饮;大口大口将…喝干;一饮而尽 | |
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10 antiquity | |
n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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11 beverage | |
n.(水,酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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12 barley | |
n.大麦,大麦粒 | |
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13 breweries | |
酿造厂,啤酒厂( brewery的名词复数 ) | |
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14 brewer | |
n. 啤酒制造者 | |
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15 slings | |
抛( sling的第三人称单数 ); 吊挂; 遣送; 押往 | |
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16 prohibition | |
n.禁止;禁令,禁律 | |
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17 licensed | |
adj.得到许可的v.许可,颁发执照(license的过去式和过去分词) | |
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18 ferment | |
vt.使发酵;n./vt.(使)激动,(使)动乱 | |
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19 fermented | |
v.(使)发酵( ferment的过去式和过去分词 );(使)激动;骚动;骚扰 | |
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20 refreshment | |
n.恢复,精神爽快,提神之事物;(复数)refreshments:点心,茶点 | |
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21 wholesome | |
adj.适合;卫生的;有益健康的;显示身心健康的 | |
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22 tipple | |
n.常喝的酒;v.不断喝,饮烈酒 | |
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23 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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24 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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25 thatch | |
vt.用茅草覆盖…的顶部;n.茅草(屋) | |
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26 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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27 entrap | |
v.以网或陷阱捕捉,使陷入圈套 | |
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28 reign | |
n.统治时期,统治,支配,盛行;v.占优势 | |
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29 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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30 alluding | |
提及,暗指( allude的现在分词 ) | |
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31 civilized | |
a.有教养的,文雅的 | |
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32 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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33 brewed | |
调制( brew的过去式和过去分词 ); 酝酿; 沏(茶); 煮(咖啡) | |
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34 scotch | |
n.伤口,刻痕;苏格兰威士忌酒;v.粉碎,消灭,阻止;adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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36 disappearance | |
n.消失,消散,失踪 | |
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37 brewery | |
n.啤酒厂 | |
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38 apocryphal | |
adj.假冒的,虚假的 | |
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39 undoubtedly | |
adv.确实地,无疑地 | |
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40 thereby | |
adv.因此,从而 | |
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41 fowl | |
n.家禽,鸡,禽肉 | |
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42 spine | |
n.脊柱,脊椎;(动植物的)刺;书脊 | |
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43 persecuted | |
(尤指宗教或政治信仰的)迫害(~sb. for sth.)( persecute的过去式和过去分词 ); 烦扰,困扰或骚扰某人 | |
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44 peeked | |
v.很快地看( peek的过去式和过去分词 );偷看;窥视;微露出 | |
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45 thrifty | |
adj.节俭的;兴旺的;健壮的 | |
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46 slewed | |
adj.喝醉的v.杀死,宰杀,杀戮( slay的过去式 )( slew的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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47 nourishment | |
n.食物,营养品;营养情况 | |
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48 afflicted | |
使受痛苦,折磨( afflict的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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49 pensioner | |
n.领养老金的人 | |
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50 broth | |
n.原(汁)汤(鱼汤、肉汤、菜汤等) | |
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51 majesty | |
n.雄伟,壮丽,庄严,威严;最高权威,王权 | |
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52 confided | |
v.吐露(秘密,心事等)( confide的过去式和过去分词 );(向某人)吐露(隐私、秘密等) | |
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53 component | |
n.组成部分,成分,元件;adj.组成的,合成的 | |
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54 lasting | |
adj.永久的,永恒的;vbl.持续,维持 | |
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55 mash | |
n.麦芽浆,糊状物,土豆泥;v.把…捣成糊状,挑逗,调情 | |
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56 mashing | |
捣碎 | |
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57 vessel | |
n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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58 vessels | |
n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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59 copper | |
n.铜;铜币;铜器;adj.铜(制)的;(紫)铜色的 | |
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60 yeast | |
n.酵母;酵母片;泡沫;v.发酵;起泡沫 | |
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61 pint | |
n.品脱 | |
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62 pints | |
n.品脱( pint的名词复数 );一品脱啤酒 | |
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63 flip | |
vt.快速翻动;轻抛;轻拍;n.轻抛;adj.轻浮的 | |
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64 mace | |
n.狼牙棒,豆蔻干皮 | |
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65 clove | |
n.丁香味 | |
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66 yolk | |
n.蛋黄,卵黄 | |
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67 thoroughly | |
adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地 | |
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68 jug | |
n.(有柄,小口,可盛水等的)大壶,罐,盂 | |
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69 ginger | |
n.姜,精力,淡赤黄色;adj.淡赤黄色的;vt.使活泼,使有生气 | |
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70 teaspoonful | |
n.一茶匙的量;一茶匙容量 | |
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71 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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72 Oxford | |
n.牛津(英国城市) | |
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73 culled | |
v.挑选,剔除( cull的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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74 pulverized | |
adj.[医]雾化的,粉末状的v.将…弄碎( pulverize的过去式和过去分词 );将…弄成粉末或尘埃;摧毁;粉碎 | |
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75 illustrated | |
adj. 有插图的,列举的 动词illustrate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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76 lurk | |
n.潜伏,潜行;v.潜藏,潜伏,埋伏 | |
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77 likeness | |
n.相像,相似(之处) | |
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78 crab | |
n.螃蟹,偏航,脾气乖戾的人,酸苹果;vi.捕蟹,偏航,发牢骚;vt.使偏航,发脾气 | |
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79 cloves | |
n.丁香(热带树木的干花,形似小钉子,用作调味品,尤用作甜食的香料)( clove的名词复数 );蒜瓣(a garlic ~|a ~of garlic) | |
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80 sifted | |
v.筛( sift的过去式和过去分词 );筛滤;细查;详审 | |
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81 backwards | |
adv.往回地,向原处,倒,相反,前后倒置地 | |
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82 champagne | |
n.香槟酒;微黄色 | |
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83 implicit | |
a.暗示的,含蓄的,不明晰的,绝对的 | |
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84 refreshing | |
adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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85 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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86 stanza | |
n.(诗)节,段 | |
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87 stanzas | |
节,段( stanza的名词复数 ) | |
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88 fig | |
n.无花果(树) | |
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89 stark | |
adj.荒凉的;严酷的;完全的;adv.完全地 | |
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90 simplicity | |
n.简单,简易;朴素;直率,单纯 | |
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