After the departure of the Jackson, we began to look forward with eager anticipation1 to the arrival of our own vessels3 and the termination of our long imprisonment4 at Gizhiga. Eight months of nomadic5 camp life had given us a taste for adventure and excitement which nothing but constant travel could gratify, and as soon as the first novelty of idleness wore off we began to tire of our compulsory6 inactivity, and became impatient for work. We had exhausted7 all the amusements of Gizhiga, read all the newspapers which had been brought by the Jackson, discussed their contents to the minutest details, explored every foot of ground in the vicinity of the settlement, and tried everything which our ingenuity8 could devise to pass away the time, but all to no avail. The days seemed interminable, the long-expected ships did not come, and the mosquitoes and gnats9 made our life a burden. About the tenth of July, the mosquito—that curse of the northern summer—rises out of the damp moss10 of the lower plains, and winds his shrill11 horn to apprise12 all animated13 nature of his triumphant14 resurrection and his willingness to furnish musical entertainment to man and beast upon extremely reasonable terms. In three or four days, if the weather be still and warm, the whole atmosphere will be literally15 filled with clouds of mosquitoes and from that time until the 10th of August they persecute16 every living thing with a bloodthirsty eagerness which knows no rest and feels no pity. Escape is impossible and defence useless; they follow their unhappy victims everywhere, and their untiring perseverance17 overcomes every obstacle which human ingenuity can throw in their way. Smoke of any ordinary density18 they treat with contemptuous indifference19; mosquito-bars they either evade20 or carry by assault, and only by burying himself alive can man hope to finally escape their relentless21 persecution22. In vain we wore gauze veils over our heads and concealed23 ourselves under calico pologs. The multitude of our tiny assailants was so great that some of them sooner or later were sure to find an unguarded opening, and just when we thought ourselves most secure we were suddenly surprised and driven out of our shelter by a fresh and unexpected attack. Mosquitoes, I know, do not enter into the popular conception of Siberia; but never in any tropical country have I seen them in such immense numbers as in north-eastern Siberia during the month of July. They make the great moss tundras24 in some places utterly25 uninhabitable, and force even the reindeer26 to seek the shelter and the cooler atmosphere of the mountains. In the Russian settlements they torment27 dogs and cattle until the latter run furiously about in a perfect frenzy28 of pain, and fight desperately29 for a place to stand in the smoke of a fire. As far north as the settlement of Kolyma, on the coast of the Arctic Ocean, the natives are compelled, in still, warm weather, to surround their houses with a circle of smudges, to protect themselves and their domestic animals from the ceaseless persecution of mosquitoes.
Early in July all the inhabitants of Gizhiga, with the exception of the governor and a few Russian merchants, closed their winter-houses, and removed to their "letovies" or summer fishing-stations along the banks of the river, to await the arrival of the salmon30. Finding the deserted31 village rather dull, Dodd, Robinson, Arnold, and I removed to the mouth of the river, and took up our quarters once more in the empty government storehouse which we had occupied during the stay of the Hallie Jackson.
I shall not dwell long upon the monotonous32 discomfort33 of the life which we led for the next month. It may all be comprised in four words—inactivity, disappointment, mosquitoes, and misery34. Looking for vessels was our only duty, fighting mosquitoes our only diversion; and as the former never appeared and the latter never disappeared, both occupations were equally unprofitable and unsatisfactory. Twenty times a day we put on our gauze veils, tied our clothing down at the wrists and ankles, and climbed laboriously35 to the summit of a high bluff36 to look for vessels; but twenty times a day we returned disappointed to our bare, cheerless rooms, and vented37 our indignation indiscriminately upon the country, the Company, the ships, and the mosquitoes. We could not help feeling as if we had dropped out of the great current of human affairs, as if our places in the distant busy world had been filled and our very existence forgotten.
The chief engineer of our enterprise had promised faithfully that ships with men, material, and supplies for the immediate39 prosecution40 of the work, should be at Gizhiga and at the mouth of the Anadyr River as early in the season as ice would permit them to enter; but it was now August, and they had not yet made their appearance. Whether they had been lost, or whether the whole enterprise had been abandoned, we could only conjecture41; but as week after week passed away without bringing any news, we gradually lost all hope and began to discuss the advisability of sending some one to the Siberian capital to inform the Company by telegraph of our situation.
It is but justice to Major Abaza to say that during all these long weary months of waiting he never entirely42 gave up to discouragement, or allowed himself to doubt the perseverance of the Company in the work which it had undertaken. The ships might have been belated or have met with some misfortune, but he did not think it possible that the work had been abandoned, and he continued throughout the summer to make such preparations as he could for another winter's campaign.
Early in August, Dodd and I, tired of looking for vessels which never came, and which we firmly believed never would come, returned on foot to the settlement, leaving Arnold and Robinson to maintain the watch at the mouth of the river.
Late in the afternoon of the 14th, while I was busily engaged in drawing maps to illustrate43 the explorations of the previous winter, our Cossack servant came rushing furiously into the house, breathless with haste and excitement, crying out: "Pooshka! soodna!"—"A cannon44! a ship!" Knowing that three cannon-shots were the signals which Arnold and Robinson had been directed to make in case a vessel2 was seen entering the gulf45, we ran hurriedly out of doors and listened eagerly for a second report. We had not long to wait. Another faint, dull explosion was heard in the direction of the lighthouse, followed at an interval46 of a moment by a third, leaving no room for a doubt that the long-expected ships had arrived. Amid great excitement a canoe was hastily prepared and launched, and taking our seats upon bearskins in the bottom, we ordered our Cossack rowers to push off. At every letoie or fishing-station which we passed in our rapid descent of the river, we were hailed with shouts of: "Soodnat soodna"—"Aship! aship!" and at the last one—Volinkina (vo-lin'-kin-ah)—where we stopped for a moment to rest our men, we were told that the vessel was now in plain sight from the hills, and that she had anchored near an island known as the Matuga (mat'-oo-gah), about twelve miles distant from the mouth of the river. Assured that it was no false alarm, we pushed on with redoubled speed, and in fifteen minutes more landed at the head of the gulf. Arnold and Robinson, with the Russian pilot, Kerrillof, had already gone off to the vessel in the government whale-boat, so that there remained nothing for us to do but climb to the summit of lighthouse bluff and watch impatiently for their return.
It was late in the afternoon when the signal of a vessel in sight had been given, and by the time we reached the mouth of the river, it was nearly sunset. The ship, which was a good-sized bark, lay quietly at anchor near the middle of the gulf, about twelve miles distant, with a small American flag flying at her peak. We could see the government whale-boat towing astern, and knew that Arnold and Robinson must be on board; but the ship's boats still hung at the davits, and no preparations were apparently47 being made to come ashore48. The Russian governor had made us promise, when we left the settlement, that if the reported vessel turned out a reality and not a delusion49, we would fire three more guns. Frequent disappointment had taught him the fallibility of human testimony50 touching51 the arrival of ships at that particular port, and he did not propose to make a journey to the lighthouse in a leaky canoe, unless further intelligence should fully38 justify52 it. As there could no longer be any doubt about the fact, we loaded up the old rusty53 cannon once more, stuffed it full of wet grass to strengthen its voice, and gave the desired signals, which echoed in successive crashes from every rocky promontory54 along the coast, and died away to a faint mutter far out at sea.
In the course of an hour the governor made his appearance, and as it was beginning to grow dark, we all climbed once more to the summit of the bluff to take a last look at the ship before she should be hidden from sight. There was no appearance of activity on board, and the lateness of the hour made it improbable that Arnold and Robinson would return before morning. We went back therefore to the empty government house, or "kazarm," and spent half the night in fruitless conjectures55 as to the cause of the vessel's late arrival and the nature of the news which she would bring.
With the earliest morning twilight56, Dodd and I clambered again to the crest57 of the bluff, to assure ourselves by actual observation that the ship had not vanished like the Flying Dutchman under cover of darkness, and left us to mourn another disappointment. There was little ground for fear. Not only was the bark still in the position which she had previously58 occupied, but there had been another arrival during the night. A large three-masted steamer, of apparently 2000 tons, was lying in the offing, and three small boats could be seen a few miles distant pulling swiftly toward the mouth of the river. Great was the excitement which this discovery produced. Dodd rushed furiously down the hill to the kazarm, shouting to the Major that there was a steamer in the gulf, and that boats were within five miles of the lighthouse. In a few moments we were all gathered in a group on the highest point of the bluff, speculating upon the character of the mysterious steamer which had thus taken us by surprise, and watching the approach of the boats. The largest of these was now within three miles, and our glasses enabled us to distinguish in the long, regular sweep of its oars59, the practised stroke of a man-of-war's crew, and in its stem-sheets the peculiar60 shoulder-straps of Russian officers. The steamer was evidently a large war-ship, but what had, brought her to that remote, unfrequented part of the world we could not conjecture.
In half an hour more, two of the boats were abreast61 of lighthouse bluff, and we descended62 to the landing-place to meet them in a state of excitement not easily imagined. Fourteen months had elapsed since we had heard from home, and the prospect63 of receiving letters and of getting once more to work was a sufficient excuse for unusual excitement. The smallest boat was the first to reach the shore, and as it grated on the sandy beach an officer in blue naval64 uniform sprang out and introduced himself as Captain Sutton, of the Russian-American Telegraph Company's bark Clara Bell, two months from San Francisco, with men and material for the construction of the line. "Where have you been all summer?" demanded the Major as he shook hands with the captain; "we have been looking for you ever since June, and had about come to the conclusion that the work was abandoned." Captain Sutton replied that all of the Company's vessels had been late in leaving San Francisco, and that he had also been detained some time in Petropavlovsk by circumstances explained in his letters. "What steamer is that lying at anchor beyond the Clara Bell?" inquired the Major. "That is the Russian corvette Varag, from Japan."—"But what is she doing up here?" "Why," said the captain with a quizzical smile, "you ought to know, sir; I understand that she reports to you for orders. I believe she has been detailed65 by the Russian Government to assist in the construction of the line; at least that was what I was told when we met her at Petropavlovsk. She has a Russian Commissioner66 on board, and a correspondent of the New York Herald67." This was unexpected news. We had heard that the Navy Departments of Russia and the United States had been instructed to send ships to Bering Sea to assist the Company in making soundings and laying down the cable between the American and Siberian coasts, but we had never expected to see either of these vessels at Gizhiga. The simultaneous arrival of a loaded bark, a steam corvette, a Russian Commissioner, and a correspondent of the New York Herald certainly looked like business, and we congratulated ourselves and each other upon the improving prospects68 of the Siberian Division.
The corvette's boat by this time had reached the shore, and after making the acquaintance of Mr. Anóssof, Colonel Knox, the Herald correspondent, and half a dozen Russian officers who spoke69 English with the greatest fluency70, we proceeded to open and read our long-delayed mail.
The news, as far as it related to the affairs of the Company and the prospects of the enterprise, was very satisfactory. Colonel Bulkley, the engineer-in-chief, had touched at Petropavlovsk on his way north, and had written us from there, by the Varag and the Clara Bell, full particulars as to his movements and dispositions71. Three vessels—the Clara Bell, Palmetto, and Onward72—had been sent from San Francisco to Gizhiga with a force of about sixty men, and large assorted73 cargoes74 to the value of sixty thousand dollars. One of these, the Clara Bell, loaded with brackets and insulators76, had already arrived; and the other two, with commissary stores, wire, instruments, and men, were en route. A fourth vessel with thirty officers and workmen, a small river-steamer, and a full supply of tools and provisions, had also been sent to the mouth of the Anadyr River, where it would be received by Lieutenant77 Bush. The corvette Varag had been detailed by the Russian Navy Department to assist in laying the cable across Bering Strait; but as the cable, which was ordered in England, had not arrived, there was nothing in particular for the Varag to do, and Colonel Bulkley had sent her with the Russian Commissioner to Gizhiga. Owing to her great draught78 of water—twenty-two feet—she could not safely come within less than fifteen or twenty miles of the Okhotsk Sea coast, and could not, of course, give us much assistance; but her very presence, with a special Russian Commissioner on board, invested our enterprise with a sort of governmental authority and sanction, which enabled us to deal more successfully with the local authorities and people than would otherwise have been possible.
It had been Major Abaza's intention, as soon as one of the Company's vessels should arrive, to go to the Russian city and province of Yakutsk, on the Lena River, engage there five or six hundred native labourers, purchase three hundred horses, and make arrangements for their distribution along the whole route of the line. The peculiar state of affairs, however, at the time the Varag and the Clara Bell reached Gizhiga, made it almost impossible for him to leave. Two vessels—the Onward and the Palmetto—were yet to arrive with large and valuable cargoes, whose distribution along the coast of the Okhotsk Sea he wished to superintend in person. He decided79, therefore, to postpone80 his trip to Yakutsk until later in the fall, and to do what he could in the meantime with the two vessels already at his disposal. The Clara Bell, in addition to her cargo75 of brackets and insulators, brought a foreman and three or four men as passengers, and these Major Abaza determined81 to send under command of Lieutenant Arnold to Yamsk, with orders to hire as many native labourers as possible and begin at once the work of cutting poles and preparing station-houses. The Varag he proposed to send with stores and despatches to Mahood, who had been living alone at Okhotsk almost five months without news, money, or provisions, and who it was presumed must be nearly discouraged.
On the day previous to the Varag's departure, we were all invited by her social and warm-hearted officers to a last complimentary82 dinner; and although we had not been and should not be able with our scanty83 means to reciprocate84 such attentions, we felt no hesitation85 in accepting the invitation and tasting once more the pleasures of civilised life. Nearly all the officers of the Varag, some thirty in number, spoke English; the ship itself was luxuriously86 fitted up; a fine military band welcomed us with "Hail, Columbia!" when we came on board, and played selections from Martha, Traviata, and Der Freischütz while we dined, and all things contributed to make our visit to the Varag a bright spot in our Siberian experience.
On the following morning at ten o'clock, we returned to the Clara Bell in one of the latter's small-boats, and the corvette steamed slowly out to sea, her officers waving their hats from the quarter-deck in mute farewell, and her band playing the Pirate's Chorus—"Ever be happy and blest as thou art"—as if in mockery of our lonely, cheerless exile! It was a gloomy party of men which returned that afternoon to a supper of reindeer-meat and cabbage in the bare deserted rooms of the government storehouse at Gizhiga! We realised then, if never before, the difference between life in "God's country" and existence in north-eastern Asia.
As soon as possible after the departure of the Varag, the Clara Bell was brought into the mouth of the river, her cargo of brackets and insulators discharged, Lieutenant Arnold and party sent on board, and with the next high tide, August 26th, she sailed for Yamsk and San Francisco, leaving no one at Gizhiga but the original Kamchatkan party, Dodd, the Major, and myself.
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1
anticipation
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| n.预期，预料，期望 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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imprisonment
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| n.关押，监禁，坐牢 | |
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nomadic
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| adj.流浪的；游牧的 | |
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compulsory
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| n.强制的，必修的；规定的，义务的 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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ingenuity
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| n.别出心裁；善于发明创造 | |
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gnats
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| n.叮人小虫( gnat的名词复数 ) | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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apprise
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| vt.通知，告知 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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triumphant
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| adj.胜利的，成功的；狂欢的，喜悦的 | |
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literally
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| adv.照字面意义，逐字地；确实 | |
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persecute
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| vt.迫害，虐待；纠缠，骚扰 | |
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perseverance
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| n.坚持不懈，不屈不挠 | |
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density
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| n.密集，密度，浓度 | |
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indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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evade
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| vt.逃避，回避；避开，躲避 | |
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relentless
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| adj.残酷的，不留情的，无怜悯心的 | |
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persecution
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| n. 迫害,烦扰 | |
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concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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tundras
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| n.（多数位于北极圈的）冻土带( tundra的名词复数 )；苔原；冻原；寒漠 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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reindeer
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| n.驯鹿 | |
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torment
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| n.折磨；令人痛苦的东西(人)；vt.折磨；纠缠 | |
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frenzy
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| n.疯狂，狂热，极度的激动 | |
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desperately
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| adv.极度渴望地，绝望地，孤注一掷地 | |
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salmon
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| n.鲑，大马哈鱼，橙红色的 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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discomfort
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| n.不舒服，不安，难过，困难，不方便 | |
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misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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laboriously
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| adv.艰苦地；费力地；辛勤地；（文体等）佶屈聱牙地 | |
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bluff
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| v.虚张声势，用假象骗人；n.虚张声势，欺骗 | |
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vented
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| 表达，发泄（感情，尤指愤怒）( vent的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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prosecution
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| n.起诉，告发，检举，执行，经营 | |
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conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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illustrate
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| v.举例说明，阐明；图解，加插图 | |
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cannon
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| n.大炮，火炮；飞机上的机关炮 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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interval
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| n.间隔，间距；幕间休息，中场休息 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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delusion
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| n.谬见，欺骗，幻觉，迷惑 | |
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testimony
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| n.证词；见证，证明 | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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justify
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| vt.证明…正当(或有理)，为…辩护 | |
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rusty
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| adj.生锈的；锈色的；荒废了的 | |
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promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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conjectures
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| 推测，猜想( conjecture的名词复数 ) | |
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56
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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oars
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| n.桨，橹( oar的名词复数 )；划手v.划（行）( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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abreast
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| adv.并排地；跟上(时代)的步伐，与…并进地 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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detailed
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| adj.详细的，详尽的，极注意细节的，完全的 | |
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commissioner
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| n.（政府厅、局、处等部门）专员，长官，委员 | |
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herald
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| vt.预示...的来临，预告，宣布，欢迎 | |
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prospects
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| n.希望，前途(恒为复数) | |
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69
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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70
fluency
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| n.流畅，雄辩，善辩 | |
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71
dispositions
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| 安排( disposition的名词复数 )； 倾向； （财产、金钱的）处置； 气质 | |
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72
onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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73
assorted
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| adj.各种各样的，各色俱备的 | |
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74
cargoes
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| n.（船或飞机装载的）货物( cargo的名词复数 )；大量，重负 | |
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cargo
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| n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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76
insulators
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| 绝缘、隔热或隔音等的物质或装置( insulator的名词复数 ) | |
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77
lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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78
draught
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| n.拉，牵引，拖；一网（饮，吸，阵)；顿服药量，通风；v.起草，设计 | |
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79
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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80
postpone
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| v.延期，推迟 | |
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81
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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82
complimentary
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| adj.赠送的，免费的，赞美的，恭维的 | |
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83
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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84
reciprocate
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| v.往复运动；互换；回报，酬答 | |
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85
hesitation
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| n.犹豫，踌躇 | |
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86
luxuriously
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| adv.奢侈地，豪华地 | |
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