Reigns4 Rubezahl, the Gnome5;
Here reigned6 he, long before man had his birth,
Beneath the rocky dome7.
Fires glowed around him, and the great hall shone
With fitful glare that from their flames was thrown.
[186]
Diminutive8 and swart his subject slaves
Grim-visaged stood around,
Collected in all haste from central caves,
Where, delving9 underground,
Ever these baneful10 sprites are doomed11 to toil12,
And win from rocky beds their iron spoil.
Met thus within the murky13 council cave,
The Gnomes14 and their great King
Agree to stay the course of the pure wave Which now is hastening
From her far mountain source with joyous15 tide,
To meet her husband Rhine, a fairy bride.
The scheme agreed upon was, by the fire
Enchainèd underground,
To raise within the earth commotion16 dire17;
And thus with rocks surround
The pure stream, which hitherward was flowing
With beauty crowned and with heaven’s light glowing.
So with his flame-sceptre King Rubezahl
Causes the earth to shake;
Back flow the streams, the neighb’ring mountains all
With fear and terror quake;
The lurid18 fires burst forth19 with horrid20 glare,
Defacing earth, defiling21 the glad air.
Thus were the Eifel mountains upwards22 thrown
From out the deep abyss;
Thus sought the Evil King to reign3 alone,
Driving from earth that Bliss23
Which rapidly was gliding24 here to dwell
In the sweet person of the bright Moselle.
Joyously25 onward26, from the Vosges hills speeding,
Dances the fairy stream;
Attendant rivulets27 her course are feeding,
Whose shining torrents29 gleam[187]
Forth from the valleys, where they timid hide,
To join their life with hers and swell30 her tide.
Thus flowed she on, until her course was stayed
By the uplifted hills;—
Grim smiled the Fire-king at the fairy maid
And her attendant rills.
The Gnomes peeped forth from many a cavern1 hole,
And forged fresh fetters31 to enchain the soul.
Oh, short-lived triumph! never yet was sin
Allowed to conquer long;
Never was bounteous32 love thus hemmèd in
By evil spirits strong,
But it would win its way through hearts or stone,
Causing their power to yield before her own.
So wins her way around, with graceful33 bend,
The fairy stream Moselle;
And the Gnome King, and all his will attend,
Are forced their wrath34 to quell35;
While she and her enleaguèd fairies throw
Over these Eifel hills, thus raised, a glow
Of more than earthly beauty, which exceeds
All else around her course;
Each Fairy gives her gift—the streamlet leads,
Above the hidden force
Of demons37 toiling38 in eternal night,
Its silv’ry thread, for ever glad and bright.
The Wood-Nymphs give their shadiest coverts39 green,
Spread out fresh turf and flowers,
And clothe the banks which the brooks41 glide42 between
With everlasting43 bowers44.
Thus were the rocks thrown upward by the Gnome
Made pleasant spots for future man to roam.
[188]
In the most exquisite45 of these sweet vales
Gushes46 a healing fount,
A bounteous spring, whose water never fails
To flow from forth the mount.
Love so has banished47 Hate, and Beauty shines
Above the darksome toil of demon36 mines.
From Alf to Bad Bertrich an excellent road runs winding48 through a succession of green valleys, shut closely in by the mountains, which are covered with foliage49. The Alf-bach, or brook40, runs by the side of the road; its waters turn the wheels employed in the iron-works, which are embosomed in trees near the entrance of these secluded50 valleys. So, after all, we find the fire-fiend is not extinguished, but by the assistance of his friend Man is, as of old, still defacing nature and enslaving a beautiful stream.
Six English miles of beauty bring us to Bad Bertrich itself. In all probability, the tourist in Germany will here exclaim, “I never heard of Bad Bertrich.” Even so, we reply; and that constitutes one of its greatest charms. While the English, and Russians, and French are all swarming51 to Baden, to Ems, Schwalbach, Wildbad, and the legion of baths with which all Germany teems52, there is left neglected one of the most beautiful places in Europe. There is plenty of shade, and plenty of sun, and plenty of air, and yet “the Bad” is quite sheltered.
The village is very small and clean. There are several small inns, and one good hotel, called Werling’s. [189]This hotel is kept by an unmarried woman, who is one of the oddest, best-hearted old bodies possible. She, however, is not the leading person in the establishment, as everything is left to the waiter, a remarkable53 character.
This waiter is an exceedingly jolly old fellow, who, as the day advances, becomes more and more deeply in liquor; his eyes close up gradually, and his senses seem to be wandering. Now these symptoms are not unusual to men in his state; but it is most unusual for a man when so overcome to be able to wait on some twenty or thirty guests, to bring what is wanted for each, and to (without any notes) keep account in his head of what wine and food each has partaken. Yet all this he does, and does it right well.
In the winter this hotel is shut up, and our old friend the waiter goes hunting with two apoplectic54 dogs, that snore on chairs all the summer.
While we were there, his waiting, and drinking, and hunting were nearly all brought to a sudden termination; for one night, while sitting at supper, a tremendous smell of sulphur began to pervade55 the apartment, and following our noses, we found that it came from a small room to which the old waiter retired56 between courses to indulge in a sip57. By this time the smell was so strong, and on opening the door the air became so dense58, that it was all we could do to drag the old fellow out. It then appeared that some visitors had given him a parcel of fire-works to put safely [190]aside, and he had for safety placed them among matches and candle-ends, and somehow the whole had exploded.
Adjoining the inn is the bath-house, and around it a garden and promenade59. Close by is a fountain, where the public drink the waters for nothing. The baths cost one shilling each, and are most delicious. The water flows through all the time you are in, and bubbles and seethes60 round your body: the after-effect is to freshen and strengthen the frame, while the nerves are all soothed61.
The Herr Director is an old officer of engineers or artillery62, and speaks excellent English. He is a man of great taste, and has laid out (at the expense of the Government) the walks and extensive grounds of the place.
All over the woods and the valleys these walks wind through the shade; and at all the best points of view are seats of wood or stone, covered with bark. Often, too, summer-houses, with roofs that will keep the showers from wetting the visitors, are met on the hills.
Bad Bertrich was well known to the Romans, who, in the fourth century, erected63 a bath-house and other fine buildings. Remnants of these are often turned up, and some are preserved.
In the fifteenth century these baths again became noted64, but fell again into disuse; but in 1769 the last Elector of Trèves had the springs properly managed, and built the Kurhaus, which now stands. [191]
The bathing establishment, hotel and village, are clustered together at one end of a circular valley. Precipitous cliffs shut in this beautiful valley, round which a brooklet65 runs singing. The cliffs are covered with forests of oak, beech66, and other fine trees. The little paths that wind round them are bordered with mountain-ash, through whose red clusters of berries the green carpet which lies in the valley, with the water splashing around it, is seen.
Two eminences67 in the green valley are surmounted68 by the two churches: one is Protestant, and the other (the old one) is for Roman Catholic worship.
A pleasant little society of Germans collect at this place, and music enlivens the air; but the season is considered quite over in September, and the music then goes away.
Water to drink and water to bathe in, and plenty of fresh air and exercise, will render a stay at Bad Bertrich most pleasant; added to which there are plenty of excursions to make, plenty of pleasant walks, and objects to sketch69; and wild flowers and rocks to examine; or shooting for those so inclined.
One of the shortest and most beautiful walks about Bertrich is to the K?segrotte, or cheese grotto70: this is a cave supported by basaltic pillars which look as if made of cheeses placed one on the top of the other. By the side of the cave tumbles a rill of water, which flows from a most beautiful little pool above; [192]over the ravine is a rustic71 bridge, exceedingly well-constructed: the banks are covered with trees.
K?segrotte.
K?segrotte.
LINES ON THE K?SEGROTTE.
Pure and beautiful the streamlet flows,
Fresh from the earth it springs;
Like heavenly light that o’er earth glows,
And fans the angels’ wings.
Within the grot a Spirit dwells,
Lovely, and pure, and sweet;
Hard by the streamlet gently wells,
Cooling the fair retreat.
[193]
So, hidden in the heart of man,
Is love for nature pure;
So, ever since the world began,
Has welled God’s mercy sure.
Close to this grotto is a seat commanding an exquisite view of the Alf-bach; its course is blocked with masses of stone washed down by its torrent28: these stones form the brook into a succession of little pools, in which the setting sun reflects his brightness. Paths along the brook lead through groves72 in which seats, beautifully placed, are dedicated73 to different German poets.
Another little spring, called the Peter’s Brunnen, on the side of the hill opposite the village, is famous for the extreme clearness and coldness of its waters; the water is collected into a cistern74, and sitting in the shade under the rock which holds these cold waters, the air is cool even on the hottest day. A lion’s head allows the imprisoned75 spring to send forth its waters, which trickle76 and splash into a bason underneath77.
LINES ON THE PETER’S BRUNNEN.
Trickling78 gently, lightly falling,
The Water-Nymph to us is calling
From her hidden cool retreat,
Where the hill-drops fresh do meet;
And to us she seems to say,
“My commands on you I lay,
“That, while thus you near me stay,
“You shall drive all care away,
“And with my waters’ murmur79 sweet
“Refresh your minds at my retreat.”
[194]
The meadow that fills the valley of Bertrich is intersected with walks, and gardens are being formed at the end farthest from the village. Above these new gardens the Alf falls in a cascade80 over the rocks; a part of the water is conducted into fish-ponds, that are to be well stocked.
The Falkenlei is well worth visiting; it is a bare mass of rock, that rears its head over the tree-tops on the summit of a mountain: it is 160 feet high and 600 feet long; it is formed of basalt, and is inhabited by foxes and falcons81. It is supposed to be an extinct volcano.
One of the best rambles82 is down the valley nearly to the village of Alf, and then up the hills to Burg Arras; afterwards, explore the Uesbach valley. But in all directions the walks are nearly equally beautiful, and as only a visit can convey a proper idea of Bad Bertrich, we will not endeavour to bring into mere83 words such beautiful scenery: go and explore!
The first Knight84 of Arras was a brave man, who, at the time of the Hunnish invasion, was a poor collier; he had twelve sons equally brave, and they all fought so stoutly85 and well, that after the defeat of the Huns the Pfalz-graf selected this collier as the bravest and best warrior86 there, and causing him then to kneel down conferred on him the order of knighthood and gave him this castle.
The Alf-bach, of which we here give a peep, falls into the Moselle at the village of Alf, which is [195]a cheerful old town; as usual, beautifully placed between the river and brook: it contains very good little inns, and is a good point to rest at.
Alf-bach.
Alf-bach.
EVENING SHADOWS.
The sun retires—the shades draw near—
Their lengthened87 forms now close appear;
With noiseless step they onwards speed,
Like Time, whose passage swift we heed88
As little as the close of day,
Which vanishing from us away
Leads surely to eternity89.
[196]
Oh, let the waning90 daylight teach
This lesson; whilst yet Time can reach,
Ere from our eyes is passed for ever
That day which life from death doth sever,—
“From earthly shadows let us fly,
“Let upwards soar our thoughts on high,
“To where Love reigns eternally.”
点击收听单词发音
1 cavern | |
n.洞穴,大山洞 | |
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2 caverns | |
大山洞,大洞穴( cavern的名词复数 ) | |
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3 reign | |
n.统治时期,统治,支配,盛行;v.占优势 | |
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4 reigns | |
n.君主的统治( reign的名词复数 );君主统治时期;任期;当政期 | |
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5 gnome | |
n.土地神;侏儒,地精 | |
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6 reigned | |
vi.当政,统治(reign的过去式形式) | |
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7 dome | |
n.圆屋顶,拱顶 | |
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8 diminutive | |
adj.小巧可爱的,小的 | |
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9 delving | |
v.深入探究,钻研( delve的现在分词 ) | |
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10 baneful | |
adj.有害的 | |
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11 doomed | |
命定的 | |
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12 toil | |
vi.辛劳工作,艰难地行动;n.苦工,难事 | |
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13 murky | |
adj.黑暗的,朦胧的;adv.阴暗地,混浊地;n.阴暗;昏暗 | |
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14 gnomes | |
n.矮子( gnome的名词复数 );侏儒;(尤指金融市场上搞投机的)银行家;守护神 | |
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15 joyous | |
adj.充满快乐的;令人高兴的 | |
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16 commotion | |
n.骚动,动乱 | |
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17 dire | |
adj.可怕的,悲惨的,阴惨的,极端的 | |
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18 lurid | |
adj.可怕的;血红的;苍白的 | |
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19 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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20 horrid | |
adj.可怕的;令人惊恐的;恐怖的;极讨厌的 | |
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21 defiling | |
v.玷污( defile的现在分词 );污染;弄脏;纵列行进 | |
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22 upwards | |
adv.向上,在更高处...以上 | |
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23 bliss | |
n.狂喜,福佑,天赐的福 | |
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24 gliding | |
v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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25 joyously | |
ad.快乐地, 高兴地 | |
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26 onward | |
adj.向前的,前进的;adv.向前,前进,在先 | |
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27 rivulets | |
n.小河,小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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28 torrent | |
n.激流,洪流;爆发,(话语等的)连发 | |
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29 torrents | |
n.倾注;奔流( torrent的名词复数 );急流;爆发;连续不断 | |
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30 swell | |
vi.膨胀,肿胀;增长,增强 | |
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31 fetters | |
n.脚镣( fetter的名词复数 );束缚v.给…上脚镣,束缚( fetter的第三人称单数 ) | |
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32 bounteous | |
adj.丰富的 | |
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33 graceful | |
adj.优美的,优雅的;得体的 | |
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34 wrath | |
n.愤怒,愤慨,暴怒 | |
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35 quell | |
v.压制,平息,减轻 | |
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36 demon | |
n.魔鬼,恶魔 | |
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37 demons | |
n.恶人( demon的名词复数 );恶魔;精力过人的人;邪念 | |
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38 toiling | |
长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的现在分词 ); 艰难缓慢地移动,跋涉 | |
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39 coverts | |
n.隐蔽的,不公开的,秘密的( covert的名词复数 );复羽 | |
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40 brook | |
n.小河,溪;v.忍受,容让 | |
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41 brooks | |
n.小溪( brook的名词复数 ) | |
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42 glide | |
n./v.溜,滑行;(时间)消逝 | |
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43 everlasting | |
adj.永恒的,持久的,无止境的 | |
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44 bowers | |
n.(女子的)卧室( bower的名词复数 );船首锚;阴凉处;鞠躬的人 | |
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45 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
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46 gushes | |
n.涌出,迸发( gush的名词复数 )v.喷,涌( gush的第三人称单数 );滔滔不绝地说话 | |
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47 banished | |
v.放逐,驱逐( banish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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48 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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49 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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50 secluded | |
adj.与世隔绝的;隐退的;偏僻的v.使隔开,使隐退( seclude的过去式和过去分词) | |
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51 swarming | |
密集( swarm的现在分词 ); 云集; 成群地移动; 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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52 teems | |
v.充满( teem的第三人称单数 );到处都是;(指水、雨等)暴降;倾注 | |
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53 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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54 apoplectic | |
adj.中风的;愤怒的;n.中风患者 | |
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55 pervade | |
v.弥漫,遍及,充满,渗透,漫延 | |
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56 retired | |
adj.隐退的,退休的,退役的 | |
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57 sip | |
v.小口地喝,抿,呷;n.一小口的量 | |
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58 dense | |
a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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59 promenade | |
n./v.散步 | |
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60 seethes | |
(液体)沸腾( seethe的第三人称单数 ); 激动,大怒; 强压怒火; 生闷气(~with sth|~ at sth) | |
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61 soothed | |
v.安慰( soothe的过去式和过去分词 );抚慰;使舒服;减轻痛苦 | |
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62 artillery | |
n.(军)火炮,大炮;炮兵(部队) | |
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63 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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64 noted | |
adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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65 brooklet | |
n. 细流, 小河 | |
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66 beech | |
n.山毛榉;adj.山毛榉的 | |
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67 eminences | |
卓越( eminence的名词复数 ); 著名; 高地; 山丘 | |
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68 surmounted | |
战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 ); 克服(困难); 居于…之上; 在…顶上 | |
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69 sketch | |
n.草图;梗概;素描;v.素描;概述 | |
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70 grotto | |
n.洞穴 | |
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71 rustic | |
adj.乡村的,有乡村特色的;n.乡下人,乡巴佬 | |
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72 groves | |
树丛,小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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73 dedicated | |
adj.一心一意的;献身的;热诚的 | |
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74 cistern | |
n.贮水池 | |
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75 imprisoned | |
下狱,监禁( imprison的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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76 trickle | |
vi.淌,滴,流出,慢慢移动,逐渐消散 | |
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77 underneath | |
adj.在...下面,在...底下;adv.在下面 | |
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78 trickling | |
n.油画底色含油太多而成泡沫状突起v.滴( trickle的现在分词 );淌;使)慢慢走;缓慢移动 | |
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79 murmur | |
n.低语,低声的怨言;v.低语,低声而言 | |
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80 cascade | |
n.小瀑布,喷流;层叠;vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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81 falcons | |
n.猎鹰( falcon的名词复数 ) | |
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82 rambles | |
(无目的地)漫游( ramble的第三人称单数 ); (喻)漫谈; 扯淡; 长篇大论 | |
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83 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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84 knight | |
n.骑士,武士;爵士 | |
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85 stoutly | |
adv.牢固地,粗壮的 | |
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86 warrior | |
n.勇士,武士,斗士 | |
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87 lengthened | |
(时间或空间)延长,伸长( lengthen的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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88 heed | |
v.注意,留意;n.注意,留心 | |
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89 eternity | |
n.不朽,来世;永恒,无穷 | |
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90 waning | |
adj.(月亮)渐亏的,逐渐减弱或变小的n.月亏v.衰落( wane的现在分词 );(月)亏;变小;变暗淡 | |
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