About the beginning of March, 1896, whilst the Inter-Regimental Polo Tournament was being held at Umballa, an occasion when representatives of regiments1 from all parts of India are gathered together, Lieutenant2 Malcolm, of the 93rd Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders, and I, agreed to join forces in an expedition through Tibet. Our resolve was to traverse the northern portions of this little-known country from west to east, to find out, if possible, what mysteries lay beneath the word UNEXPLORED with which alone our latest maps were enlightened; furthermore to discover and locate the source of the Chu Ma river, which was supposed to be a source of the Yangtse Kiang; finally to cross the Tsaidam and end up our wanderings at the celestial3 capital of China. During the few weeks that remained before we should be able to take our leave, we were unfortunately quartered at different places many miles apart, consequently all our arrangements had to be carried out by post and wire. It was towards the end of March when we left our respective stations of Nowshera and Umballa. I remember well the mail train to Rawal Pindi one bright morning gliding4 from the latter station past the 2 well-known grassy5 maidan, then worn to a dirty dusty brown by reason of the morning tramp of small mixed armies, and by the equally keen and destructive work of numerous polo players during the latter half of the day.
On occasions like this, the thought quite naturally arises in one's mind, "Is everything here? Has my faithful bearer left anything behind?" Let us see what was with me in the carriage. In one corner lay my rifles; these consisted of a ·308 with Martini-Henry action, and 300 rounds of ammunition6 with Jeffery's split bullets, a sporting carbine with 200 rounds, a shot-gun with 300, and a couple of government cavalry7 carbines with 100. These latter we brought not in the hope of using, but rather to lessen8 the chance of a skirmish with any natives showing hostile intentions, by merely making a display of them. The knowledge of a caravan9 being well armed and equipped, however small it may be, is very often a battle half won amongst unsophisticated inhabitants of little-known countries. The other rifles, for game, we selected chiefly for their handiness and the lightness of the ammunition, although a double-barrelled express may be equally or more destructive. All the ammunition was placed in government tin-lined wooden boxes, with rope handles.
Here, too, were our scientific instruments: A three-inch theodolite and stand, a six-inch sextant, three aneroid barometers10, a hypsometer, maximum and minimum thermometers, plane table and stand, prismatic compass, and field glasses. Besides this we had a drying press for flowers, skinning knives, with alum and arsenical soap, a butterfly net, and a kodak; also the best map of the country we could lay our hands on, and a few stiff books, such as the "History of the Indian Empire," where the dullest mind and imagination can find unlimited11 food, for there are times on trips of this description when bad weather or illness may prevent outdoor progress, and the brain will at once cry out for an 3 innings. Close by lay a despatch12 box and medicine chest, containing, for man's ailments14, quinine, Cockle's pills, chlorodyne, auberge for colds, antipyrine, antiseptic wool, vaseline, and kola nut, the last named being particularly useful, for a small piece the size of a pea has been known to sustain strength and energy at the most urgent times; there were also mustard plasters, which are always effective for sticking on natives of any uncivilized country, Tibetans themselves being especially partial to this kind of medicinal adornment15. For the mules17 and ponies18, whose chief and probably only ailment13 would be the suffering from sore backs, we carried sugar-of-lead ointment19 and cyona. There lay, too, a small chair, a bundle of warm blankets and waterproof20 sheets, and a box containing twenty chain hobbles with bolt screw. We had learnt from Bower21, who had crossed Tibet some five years previously22, that one of the greatest delays was caused by the straying of the animals at night-time, and against this annoyance23 we were resolved to protect ourselves. These were very simply made. By way of a portable kitchen we had laid in a box of cooking utensils25, consisting of some steel degchies and a frying pan. The stores were placed in six boxes, each weighing about thirty pounds, and made up principally of tea, cocoa, Lazenby's soup squares, Brand's essences, candles, matches, some sardines26 and bully27 beef, with three bottles of good brandy. In the luggage van were also two government cavalry saddles, with carbine bucket, wallets, and wooden stirrups, for we had been led to believe that the cold would be intense, and that metal stirrups would probably produce a frost-bite. Lastly, though more precious, was my little fox terrier, Ruby28, so full of life and spirits at starting, yet in happy ignorance of the undeserved fate that overtook her some seven or eight months later.
Unlike many Indian trains, where, too, the fashion would have suited me far better, this particular train landed me 4 punctually at Rawal Pindi at 2 a.m. Despite this unearthly hour and the drizzling29 rain, I was a little surprised to find my special tonga awaiting me, though it proved insufficient30 for carrying all the luggage. Leaving my little terrier to take charge of this, I embarked31 on to a wooden springless box, pulled by a mule16, and steered32 for the nearest serai, in hopes of being quickly able to find an ecka. Here I squeezed through some bars of the large wooden gates which were supposed to keep out night intruders, and any sleeping inmate33 who lay in the various rooms I prodded34 with my stick, and demanded an ecka. None of these, however, at such an hour, would accede35 with any kind of willingness to my proposals. Some absolutely refused to awake, while others who did, strongly objected to being roused and to helping36 me. The only arrangement that would suit any of these men at all was, that twenty-five rupees should be paid instead of the proper fare of eighteen. In that case, and providing that my luggage was brought to the serai, and that there were not too many things, they agreed to start for Baramula when they felt inclined. Bribes37, threats, and even blows were of no avail, and finally, being opposed by superior numbers, I retreated, and sad to say not gracefully38, for I had to squeeze through those bars again. Another ride in the box brought me to a second serai, where I luckily fell in with a choudrie, who produced an ecka with so stout39 a pony40 that he reached the station before I could in my mule box. Here the ecka was loaded and sent on in advance, shortly to be overtaken by my tonga, for a tonga will cover the journey of 160 miles to Baramula in two days, while an ecka takes about five. The only difficulty that arose this morning was the constant jibbing of the horses, and had they not the providential dodge41 of repeatedly collapsing42 and lying down, I should undoubtedly43 have rattled44 down some open precipice45. Despite this delay, I reached the well-known 7 hill station of Murree for 10 o'clock breakfast. From here the road was heavy, and had not some gangs of long-suffering coolies, who were working on the road, come to our assistance, the tonga would be there now. That evening we reached Domel, where a tumbledown shanty46 had supplanted47, for the time being, a well-built bungalow48 which had recently been washed away by heavy rains and snow. In one respect this was an ill-chosen spot to spend the night at, as the horses had to be taken away for shelter some three miles off, I was told, and to induce natives to bring the tonga ready to start by daybreak was as difficult as to squeeze blood out of a stone.
CLUB OF NORTHERN INDIA, MURREE, IN SNOW.
By 7 o'clock, however, we were once more rolling along in dripping rain, with the everlasting49 but somewhat monotonous50 roar of the river Jhelum below us, so that it was a decided51 relief to stop for breakfast, even at an inn like that at Chagoti, where I could hardly mount the slippery steps that lead up to the entrance, benumbed as I was by wet and cold, and cramped52 from several hours of the same position, for the constant downpour prevented any stretching of legs when changing horses at the various stages. In somewhat heavier rain we journeyed on through slush and mud, and arrived at Baramula about sunset. It was my intention to have embarked here at once on to one of the river boats and reach Srinagar as quickly as possible. But darkness and rain, and an inviting53 light from the adjacent dak bungalow dissolved these plans, and I was soon ushered54 inside by a Kashmiri, by name Mahomed Malik. This man was to be our cook on the expedition; he was armed with several letters of recommendation, amongst others from Curzon and Littledale, and had doubtless travelled over a great portion of Asia, and we vainly congratulated ourselves on having managed to pick up a servant with so much experience. I was struck, too, by his pleasant appearance, his quiet yet quick and business-like way of doing things, 8 little knowing at the time that he had at heart no real intention of accompanying us, but merely of buying the articles required for our expedition, and persuading us to buy a great many unnecessary ones, in order to reap a small fortune from the transaction.
VIEW TOWARDS FIFTH BRIDGE, SRINAGAR.
From experience gained on this trip and on others, I prefer servants of all descriptions, with the exception of guides pure and simple, to be men who have made no previous journeys. Although the possession of letters explaining what good men they have been on previous journeys is a useful recommendation, still it can never guarantee what they will be like. Many of them, after receiving liberal and well-deserved pay for their services, become inflated56 with their own importance and vainly think that no expedition can manage without them. Besides, men of this description are far more expensive articles 9 than the fresh and keener man, anxious to make his first essay. It is hardly worth while, too, to quote the proverb about the fish and the sea. The following morning, I found myself being towed up the river towards Srinagar, fairly sheltered from the incessant57 rain by the matting that forms a roof to these boats, or doongas, as they are locally called. The water was thick and brown, no view of the famous snow-capped peaks or pine-clad mountains could be seen, all was obscured in damp dreariness58, and my thoughts fled back to those I had left to enjoy the sunny plains below. Nor was there any more inducement on the morrow to slip out from between the blankets and admire the wonderful scenery of these parts. I continued to prolong the night until my boat was suddenly boarded by one of the chief agents of Srinagar, a member of the 10 Sumud Shah family, so renowned59 for their Jewish appearance and ways, and for their partiality in buying and selling all kinds of goods, and for lending or borrowing money to any amount in any shape or form. There was a second invader60, a moment afterwards, by name Ramzana, who was a chapliwalla, or seller of chaplies, which are shoes made of leather and straps61, and are worn by most sportsmen who shoot in Kashmir; besides these he sold everything that man's imagination could conceive as being made of leather, but, it should be added, of an inferior kind. They brought with them some large brass62 plates loaded with white almonds, sweets, and dried currants, and placing them beside my bed as a friendly initiative to business, began to ramble63 on, with beaming faces, about the superiority yet cheapness of their own goods, and of their eternal willingness to provide me and my friends who might come to Kashmir with them, at all places and at all times.
A MERCHANT'S HOUSE IN SRINAGAR.
About midday the clouds began to lift, and having lightened my cargo64 of these persevering65 Jews, I decided to take a muddy walk and finish the last eight or nine miles on foot. Part of the way lay along the Baramula and Srinagar road, along which tongas should certainly be able to ply24 the following year, and if the many heaps of flints that were lying alongside were beaten down into the road itself, there is every chance of its being able to withstand the traffic. On either side, too, was a row of dwarf66 poplars, or "pruss" as they are called by the Kashmiris, beautifully planted in line at about a yard interval67, doubtless helping to make the drive pleasant and shady enough.
MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUE68, SRINAGAR.
By the river side were men breaking up between two stones black, spikey nuts called tinkara; these are gathered from the bottom of the river, and the outside appearance belies69 what lays hidden beneath, for they are rather good eating. About dusk, Sumud Shah's shop came 11 in sight, and having climbed up the steep stairs into his showroom, which overlooked the river with its many opened windows, I was surrounded and made much of by numerous Sumuds, each of them inquiring amongst other things whether I carried any banknotes, and if so, whether they might take care of them for me. Soon afterwards they produced dinner, composed of about a dozen plates holding different coloured messes. Fortunately Malik came to my assistance and brought a mutton bone, and certainly saved me from an illness. I was glad to escape from so much civility and hospitality and descend70 the stairs again and wend my way to my bedroom, which was airy enough, for three sides could only be described as windows of 12 perforated wood, whilst the fourth held two doors and no wall.
HINDU TEMPLE, SRINAGAR.
The first thing I learnt here was that, if I wanted breakfast at 8.30, it must be ordered for 6 o'clock, which lesson saved me a vast amount of trouble and impatience71 in doing all other business in Srinagar. My second lesson learnt was to believe nobody, however sincere they might appear to be, for these vendors72 are for ever plotting and scheming against one another for the sake of gaining the merest trifle, and many of them, who are seemingly bosom73 friends, are in reality the most unscrupulous enemies, and vice55 versa. My time was spent in bargaining and purchasing goods from men of this description.
It was our intention here to have collected, if possible, some good mules and ponies for transport, and send them up to Leh, which would be our starting-point. But the 13 route was at this time of the year impassable by reason of heavy falls of snow. All our transport, therefore, had to be bought in Leh itself. There was plenty to do at Srinagar, nevertheless, in fitting out the expedition in other ways, and in endeavouring to pick up some muleteers, as it is not always easy to pick up good men at Leh to accompany one on a trip of this description.
One day I visited the Tibetan serai which lies a little lower down the river, to see whether I could get some Yarkandi saddles for our mules, although it seemed rather ridiculous to purchase these before the animals. I was under the wrong impression that they were not obtainable in Leh. They are made of coarse grass or reeds, covered with sacking, with soft munnah over the part that rests on the animal's neck and shoulder, costing from eight to ten rupees each when complete. They have the advantage over the wooden saddle, as mules can roll with these on their backs, and they are, besides, easily repaired, and can have holes cut into them, or otherwise shaped, so as to relieve any pressure on the tender part of a sore back.
Whilst engaged in getting these saddles mended up, I fell in with a man called Tokhta, who was clever at shoeing, and as he seemed willing to come with me I at once engaged him. He was a Yarkandi man, and had travelled in Turkistan.
ON THE RIVER, SRINAGAR.
It is a great saving of time and trouble on the march to have loads so arranged that they can be easily loaded and unloaded. Most of the things were therefore placed into yakdans, which are light boxes about 2 ft. × 1 ft. 3 in. × 1 ft., but can be made to order in other sizes. They are covered with leather, and fitted on the outside with a pair of buckles74 and stout leather straps. Our beds, too, were composed of yakdans, with two iron sockets75 in each, to hold two iron rings. Into these were placed the two bamboo poles that held the bed. These yakdans can be bought cheaper, stronger, and lighter76 at Peshawar. I 14 also bought 120 sets of shoes with 1,000 spare nails, and shoeing tools for the mules and ponies, and for our followers77 four maunds of rice (a maund equals about eighty pounds), a maund of dal, thirty pounds of tea, salt, pepper, curry78 powder, and hot spices. In the shape of presents we bought watches, pistols, knives, rings, and some saffron which is made from the dried stigmas79 of the Crocus sativus, and is highly esteemed80 as a dye by the Tibetans, especially by the Lamas. A few days later, Malcolm joined me, bringing his share of stores, etc., and together we bought the warmest clothing we could find, underclothing of lambs' wool, thick woollen socks, double soled and heeled, thick puttoo suits, fur-lined caps and cloaks, and fur-lined sleeping bags. We wore the regulation infantry81 ammunition boots. For shelter we bought five tents, all double twill 17 lined. Two of these were for ourselves, one for our cook and servant, one for our sub-surveyor, and one for the muleteers. These were small and light, and the whole of them would not have equalled more than a mule load. I have seen some tents lined with warm cloth such as puttoo, but this is not so effective in keeping out a keen wind as the closer-woven twill. We found iron pegs82 answered our purpose, excepting when the ground was too sandy; on these occasions we used to tie the ropes to one of the handles of an ammunition box or yakdan.
DUFFADAR SHAHZAD MIR, 11TH BENGAL LANCERS.
One morning, in the midst of making these preparations, there was a sudden rush and hullaballoo, for a fire had broken out in some adjacent buildings, and I was invited by many excited vendors to go and visit the scene. The police station was in flames, and thousands of natives were engaged in passing up from hand to hand chatties or small earthenware83 pots from the rivers edge, whilst the bhisties or water carriers were running madly about in every direction with their skins full of water. The police, who had lost their wits, were idle onlookers84, but standing85 on a brick wall forty feet high was a fine muscular man wielding86 a massive beam, with which he was beating the roof of the burning building, with what object it was impossible to say. I was nevertheless struck by his courage, and inquired who this hero might be, and felt somewhat anxious for his safety; but when they told me he was my dhobie, or laundress, my fear for him was lost in the greater anxiety for my clothes which he had only that very morning received, and I at once took steps to get him to a safer footing, and left the fire to burn out as it pleased. With Malcolm came one Shahzad Mir, Duffadar, 11th Bengal Lancers, a man who had travelled before with Captain Younghusband, and who had done work on the Pamir Commission. He was a great addition to our party, chiefly as a sub-surveyor, and was keen on the job. Through him I was enabled to pick up 18 another man called Shukr Ali, who had also been with Captain Younghusband. He was a tall, dark fellow of cheery countenance87, and was anxious to make a little money to support his family living somewhere in Ladakh.
SHUKR ALI.
During all this time we received every kind of assistance from the Resident, Captain Trench88, who presented us with a huge watch-dog called Tippoo. Tippoo unfortunately had to be chained up day and night, for when allowed to go loose he invariably seized on the first native who came in his way. In consequence of this imprisonment89 he quickly 19 became footsore when compelled to march, and took up a new home with the first Nomads90 we came across.
On April 5th Malcolm left me at Srinagar to complete the arrangements and to wait for the passport, about which there had been so serious a hitch91 that it seemed doubtful whether we should be able to start on our journey at all. He left with a small flotilla of three boats to carry some fifty coolie loads of luggage, together with Shahzad Mir and Tokhta, who bade many farewells, mingled92 with callings to their god, to the large crowd of friends gathered on the shore to see the start. It was calculated that on the following day they would reach the village of Gunderbul, lower down the river, and from thence collect coolies and ponies and make their way to Leh, the capital of Ladakh, and the starting-point of our expedition.
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1
regiments
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| （军队的）团( regiment的名词复数 )； 大量的人或物 | |
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lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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celestial
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| adj.天体的；天上的 | |
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gliding
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| v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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ammunition
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| n.军火，弹药 | |
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cavalry
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| n.骑兵；轻装甲部队 | |
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lessen
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| vt.减少，减轻；缩小 | |
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caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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barometers
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| 气压计，晴雨表( barometer的名词复数 ) | |
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unlimited
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| adj.无限的，不受控制的，无条件的 | |
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despatch
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| n./v.(dispatch)派遣；发送；n.急件；新闻报道 | |
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ailment
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| n.疾病，小病 | |
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ailments
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| 疾病（尤指慢性病），不适( ailment的名词复数 ) | |
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adornment
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| n.装饰；装饰品 | |
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mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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ponies
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| 矮种马，小型马( pony的名词复数 )； ￡25 25 英镑 | |
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ointment
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| n.药膏，油膏，软膏 | |
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waterproof
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| n.防水材料；adj.防水的；v.使...能防水 | |
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bower
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| n.凉亭，树荫下凉快之处；闺房；v.荫蔽 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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annoyance
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| n.恼怒，生气，烦恼 | |
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ply
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| v.(搬运工等)等候顾客，弯曲 | |
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utensils
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| 器具，用具，器皿( utensil的名词复数 )； 器物 | |
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sardines
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bully
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| n.恃强欺弱者，小流氓；vt.威胁，欺侮 | |
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ruby
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| n.红宝石，红宝石色 | |
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drizzling
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| 下蒙蒙细雨，下毛毛雨( drizzle的现在分词 ) | |
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insufficient
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| adj.(for，of)不足的，不够的 | |
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embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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steered
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| v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 )；操纵；控制；引导 | |
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inmate
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| n.被收容者；(房屋等的)居住人；住院人 | |
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prodded
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| v.刺，戳( prod的过去式和过去分词 )；刺激；促使；（用手指或尖物）戳 | |
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accede
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| v.应允，同意 | |
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helping
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| n.食物的一份&adj.帮助人的，辅助的 | |
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bribes
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| n.贿赂( bribe的名词复数 )；向（某人）行贿，贿赂v.贿赂( bribe的第三人称单数 )；向（某人）行贿，贿赂 | |
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gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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dodge
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| v.闪开，躲开，避开；n.妙计，诡计 | |
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collapsing
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| 压扁[平]，毁坏，断裂 | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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rattled
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| 慌乱的，恼火的 | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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shanty
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| n.小屋，棚屋；船工号子 | |
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supplanted
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| 把…排挤掉，取代( supplant的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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bungalow
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| n.平房，周围有阳台的木造小平房 | |
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everlasting
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| adj.永恒的，持久的，无止境的 | |
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monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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cramped
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| a.狭窄的 | |
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inviting
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| adj.诱人的，引人注目的 | |
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ushered
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| v.引，领，陪同( usher的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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vice
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| n.坏事；恶习；[pl.]台钳，老虎钳；adj.副的 | |
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inflated
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| adj.（价格）飞涨的；（通货）膨胀的；言过其实的；充了气的v.使充气（于轮胎、气球等）( inflate的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）膨胀；（使）通货膨胀；物价上涨 | |
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incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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dreariness
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| 沉寂，可怕，凄凉 | |
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renowned
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| adj.著名的，有名望的，声誉鹊起的 | |
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invader
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| n.侵略者，侵犯者，入侵者 | |
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61
straps
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| n.带子( strap的名词复数 )；挎带；肩带；背带v.用皮带捆扎( strap的第三人称单数 )；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带 | |
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brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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63
ramble
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| v.漫步，漫谈，漫游；n.漫步，闲谈，蔓延 | |
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cargo
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| n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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65
persevering
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| a.坚忍不拔的 | |
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dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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interval
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| n.间隔，间距；幕间休息，中场休息 | |
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mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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belies
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| v.掩饰( belie的第三人称单数 )；证明（或显示）…为虚假；辜负；就…扯谎 | |
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70
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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impatience
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| n.不耐烦，急躁 | |
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72
vendors
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| n.摊贩( vendor的名词复数 )；小贩；（房屋等的）卖主；卖方 | |
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bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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74
buckles
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| 搭扣，扣环( buckle的名词复数 ) | |
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sockets
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| n.套接字，使应用程序能够读写与收发通讯协定(protocol)与资料的程序( Socket的名词复数 )；孔( socket的名词复数 )；（电器上的）插口；托座；凹穴 | |
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76
lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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curry
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| n.咖哩粉，咖哩饭菜；v.用咖哩粉调味，用马栉梳，制革 | |
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79
stigmas
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| n.耻辱的标记，瑕疵( stigma的名词复数 ) | |
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esteemed
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| adj.受人尊敬的v.尊敬( esteem的过去式和过去分词 )；敬重；认为；以为 | |
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81
infantry
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| n.[总称]步兵(部队) | |
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82
pegs
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| n.衣夹( peg的名词复数 )；挂钉；系帐篷的桩；弦钮v.用夹子或钉子固定( peg的第三人称单数 )；使固定在某水平 | |
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earthenware
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| n.土器，陶器 | |
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84
onlookers
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| n.旁观者，观看者( onlooker的名词复数 ) | |
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85
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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wielding
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| 手持着使用（武器、工具等）( wield的现在分词 )； 具有； 运用（权力）； 施加（影响） | |
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87
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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88
trench
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| n./v.(挖)沟，(挖)战壕 | |
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imprisonment
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| n.关押，监禁，坐牢 | |
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90
nomads
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| n.游牧部落的一员( nomad的名词复数 )；流浪者；游牧生活；流浪生活 | |
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hitch
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| v.免费搭(车旅行)；系住；急提；n.故障；急拉 | |
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mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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