I've seen several kings and kaisers, but I've never seen one that looked "every inch a king." The German Kaiser outwardly is a well-groomed Englishman; Franz Josef of Austria—I've not met him since 1903, when our carriage wheels locked and he, a lovable old man, gallantly4 saluted5 [Pg 169] my companion—he is everything but kingly; the late King Edward when at Marienbad was very much the portly type of middle-aged6 man you meet in Wall Street at three o'clock in the afternoon; while William II of Würtemberg is a pleasant gentleman, with "merchant" written over him. It is true he is an excellent man of affairs, harder working than any of his countrymen. He is also more democratic, and with his beloved Queen daily promenades7 the streets, lifting his hat half the time in response to the bowings and scrapings of patriotic8 Swabians.
The train arrived. The crowd grew denser9. Zealous10 policemen intercepted11 passers-by from coming too close to the royal equipage; an old peasant woman carrying a market-basket was nearly guillotined by the harsh reproaches of the officers. She stumbled, but was shunted into the background just as the King reappeared in company with Prince August, greeted with wild cheering. The crowd, its appetite increasing by what it had fed on, remained. What next? Ah! The personal servants and valets of the youthful aristocrat12 from Berlin emerged from the station and entered a break. No baggage as yet. "Drat the folk!" I exclaimed, "why don't they clear out and leave the way for pedestrians13." But it was not to be. A murmur14 arose when finally a baggage-wagon decked by the royal colours appeared. Trunks were piled on it, and only when it disappeared [Pg 170] did the crowd melt. I thought of Gessler's cap on the pole and William Tell. Curiosity is perhaps the prime root of patriotism15.
Finally, as too much Strauss palls16, also too much Stuttgart. I first visited the pretty city in 1896 en route to Bayreuth, and on my return to New York I remember chiding17 Victor Herbert for leaving the place where he had completed his musical education. He merely smiled. He knew. So do I. A Residenzstadt finally ends in a half-mad desire to escape; anywhere, anywhere, only let it be a big town where the inhabitants don't stare at you as if you were a wild animal. Stuttgart is full of stare-cats (as is Berlin for that matter). And those hills that at first are so attractive—they hem18 in the entire city, which is bowl-shaped, in a valley—become monotonous19. They stifle20 you. To live up there on the heights is another thing; then the sky is an accomplice21 in your optical pleasures, but below—especially when the days are rainy and the nights doleful, as they are in November—oh, then you cry: Let me see once more summer-sunlit Holland and its wide plains punctuated22 only by church spires23 and windmills!
Otherwise Stuttgart is an easy-going spot. It's cheaper than Dresden or Munich (though it was expensive during the Strauss week); the eating at the restaurants is about one-half the price of first-rate establishments in New York (and not as good by a long shot); lodgings24 are also [Pg 171] cheap, and often nasty—Germany is not altogether hygienic, notwithstanding her superiority over America in matters musical; but the motor-cars are simply miraculous25 to the New Yorker accustomed to the bullies26, bandits, and swindlers who pretend to be chauffeurs27 in our metropolis28. For twenty-five cents you can ride nearly a half-hour in Stuttgart in cars faultlessly conducted. A two and a half hours' trip round the town—literally—in the hills, through the park cost seven marks (one dollar and seventy-five cents)—and even then the driver was distinctly apologetic when he showed his register.
Stuttgart, oddly enough, is a centre for all the engraving29, etching, and mezzotint sales. I say, oddly, because the art museum contains the worst collection of alleged30 "old masters" I ever encountered off Fifth Avenue. Hardly an original in the whole lot, and then a third-rate specimen31 at that. But the engraving cabinets and the Rembrandt original drawings are justly celebrated32. And now with the two new theatres, or opera-houses, Stuttgart ought soon to forge to the front as an art centre in Germany. Thanks to its energetic King and cultivated Queen.
The question with which I began this little talk—is Richard Strauss retrograding in his art?—may be answered by a curt33 negative. One broadside doesn't destroy such a record as Richard's. Like that sublime34 bourgeois35 Rubens, like that other sublime bourgeois Victor Hugo, like Bernini, to whose rococo36 marbles the music of [Pg 172] Richard II is akin3, he has essayed every department of his art. So expressive37 is he that he could set a mince-pie to music. (Why not, after that omelette in Ariadne?) So powerful is his imagination that he can paint the hatred38 of his epical39 Elektra or the half-mad dreams of Don Quixote. He is easily the foremost of living composers, and after he is dead the whirligig of fortune which has so favoured him may pronounce him dead for ever. But I doubt it.
点击收听单词发音
1 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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2 inauguration | |
n.开幕、就职典礼 | |
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3 akin | |
adj.同族的,类似的 | |
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4 gallantly | |
adv. 漂亮地,勇敢地,献殷勤地 | |
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5 saluted | |
v.欢迎,致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 );赞扬,赞颂 | |
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6 middle-aged | |
adj.中年的 | |
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7 promenades | |
n.人行道( promenade的名词复数 );散步场所;闲逛v.兜风( promenade的第三人称单数 ) | |
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8 patriotic | |
adj.爱国的,有爱国心的 | |
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9 denser | |
adj. 不易看透的, 密集的, 浓厚的, 愚钝的 | |
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10 zealous | |
adj.狂热的,热心的 | |
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11 intercepted | |
拦截( intercept的过去式和过去分词 ); 截住; 截击; 拦阻 | |
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12 aristocrat | |
n.贵族,有贵族气派的人,上层人物 | |
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13 pedestrians | |
n.步行者( pedestrian的名词复数 ) | |
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14 murmur | |
n.低语,低声的怨言;v.低语,低声而言 | |
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15 patriotism | |
n.爱国精神,爱国心,爱国主义 | |
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16 palls | |
n.柩衣( pall的名词复数 );墓衣;棺罩;深色或厚重的覆盖物v.(因过多或过久而)生厌,感到乏味,厌烦( pall的第三人称单数 ) | |
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17 chiding | |
v.责骂,责备( chide的现在分词 ) | |
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18 hem | |
n.贴边,镶边;vt.缝贴边;(in)包围,限制 | |
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19 monotonous | |
adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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20 stifle | |
vt.使窒息;闷死;扼杀;抑止,阻止 | |
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21 accomplice | |
n.从犯,帮凶,同谋 | |
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22 punctuated | |
v.(在文字中)加标点符号,加标点( punctuate的过去式和过去分词 );不时打断某事物 | |
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23 spires | |
n.(教堂的) 塔尖,尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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24 lodgings | |
n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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25 miraculous | |
adj.像奇迹一样的,不可思议的 | |
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26 bullies | |
n.欺凌弱小者, 开球 vt.恐吓, 威胁, 欺负 | |
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27 chauffeurs | |
n.受雇于人的汽车司机( chauffeur的名词复数 ) | |
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28 metropolis | |
n.首府;大城市 | |
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29 engraving | |
n.版画;雕刻(作品);雕刻艺术;镌版术v.在(硬物)上雕刻(字,画等)( engrave的现在分词 );将某事物深深印在(记忆或头脑中) | |
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30 alleged | |
a.被指控的,嫌疑的 | |
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31 specimen | |
n.样本,标本 | |
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32 celebrated | |
adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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33 curt | |
adj.简短的,草率的 | |
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34 sublime | |
adj.崇高的,伟大的;极度的,不顾后果的 | |
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35 bourgeois | |
adj./n.追求物质享受的(人);中产阶级分子 | |
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36 rococo | |
n.洛可可;adj.过分修饰的 | |
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37 expressive | |
adj.表现的,表达…的,富于表情的 | |
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38 hatred | |
n.憎恶,憎恨,仇恨 | |
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39 epical | |
adj.叙事诗的,英勇的 | |
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