Assisi, in addition, was a delightful3 place. From the hills among which the little town with its famous monastery4 nestled, there was a glorious view over an immense plain, dotted with houses, churches, gardens, and villages.[130] In the distance rose the peaks of the Apennines.
The impression of this view was rendered all the more enchanting5 by that wonderful colouring, so well known to all who have visited Umbria or Tuscany in the spring. The mountains were nearly always wreathed in an azure6 mist; the shadows were deep blue, little white cloudlets floated in the turquoise7 sky; the valley was green under its carpet of velvet8 grass, powdered already with daisies; the fruit-trees in the orchards9 were covered with a wealth of pink and white blossom. Such landscapes can be seen only in the pictures of the Italian old masters, for they alone, of all painters, have possessed10 the gift of reproducing all the softness and harmony of their native colouring.
Assisi has, to this day, preserved its character of a medi?val Borgo, and has probably changed but little since the days of St. Francis. An old ruined fortress11 crowns the higher of a group of hills, and from this point run in all directions narrow, ill-paved little streets, illuminated12 at night, as in old times, by feeble[131] lanterns hanging on wires stretched across the roadway. Nobody seems to live in the monotonous13, grey stone houses with eternally closed shutters14; nobody ever seems to walk in the deserted15 streets and dark alleys16. Only an occasional donkey tied to a wall stands meditatively17 in the middle of the road, and from time to time moves his long ears as a sign of life. Now and then there float across the air from some cellar the beat of a carpenter’s hammer, and the subdued18 tones of his voice, singing about the “faithless Fiametta.” Life seems to have stopped at the twelfth century, since when everything has lain still in an enchanted19 sleep. Even the numerous tourists do not succeed in awakening20 the slumbering21 town. The inhabitants are mostly monks22 and nuns24, with a scattering26 of Polish Catholics, and English old maids, who come to kneel at the shrine27 of St. Francis.
Irene set herself zealously28 to visit all the holy places. First, she descended29 into the valley, to the Church of Santa Maria dei Angeli. It had once stood in the heart of[132] a dreaming forest, where, in the fourth century, some monks had built a tiny chapel30, round which, partly in cells, partly in caves, the brotherhood31 had settled. In this primitive32 little settlement, St. Francis lived and prayed and died. Later on his remains33 were removed and buried in the new and magnificent fortress-like Franciscan Monastery, whose white walls and towers now shine dazzlingly in the sun. The old forest has long since disappeared, and the touching34 little chapel is almost lost in the centre of the magnificent temple built around it. Monks show visitors round the monastery, pointing out the cell in which St. Francis died, the grotto35 in which he slept, and the little garden where grew the roses without thorns, that God had sent him as a special grace.
Irene went also to do homage36 to the body of St. Clara, who, influenced by the teaching of St. Francis, left the world, her family and friends, retired37 into a convent, and founded the Order of the Clarissians. St. Clara, too, passed her life in the modest little convent of St. Damian, and it was only after her death[133] that her body was transferred to the gorgeous Church of the New Convent, where, in a niche38, enclosed in a glass coffin39, it rests in nun25’s attire40, and with a capuchin drawn41 over the blackened features.
Most of all, however, Irene enjoyed her excursion to Carceri, the distant hermitage in a mountain cave, where St. Francis had often prayed and fasted. She ordered a carriage a day in advance, and, at the appointed hour, Giuseppe, a handsome young Umbrian, drove up to the door of the hotel, raised his hat, and smiled caressingly43 to the waiting Irene. They traversed the entire town at a walking pace, on account of the steep, narrow streets, and this slow drive was a sort of triumphal progress for young Giuseppe. He seemed to be on a friendly footing with the whole place; every man they met on their way turned and walked for a while beside the carriage, his hand on the shaft44, and conversing45 animatedly46 with Giuseppe. They all emphatically persuaded him to come, at some particular time and for some particular reason, to the Piazza[134] Nuova, and he repeatedly swore by all the saints to keep the appointment.
At last they passed through the old fortress gates, and Giuseppe drove up to a small house, from the window of which peeped a pretty, sunburnt, smiling little face. Giuseppe jumped from his box, and leaving Irene at the mercy of the scorching47 Italian sun, disappeared into the house. Time passed; the young horse, peacefully regaling itself on fresh grass, was certainly in no hurry to proceed, and Giuseppe stayed away so long that Irene grew seriously angry. At last he appeared wreathed in smiles, and announced that the bullocks would be brought round in a moment.
“The bullocks!” exclaimed Irene; “but why do we want bullocks?”
“How should we do without them?” he retorted. “We are going into the mountains. A horse cannot make that journey alone. We must have two bullocks.”
Irene waited with some curiosity. In about ten minutes a middle-aged48 woman, probably the mother of the pretty sunburnt[135] girl, appeared, leading by a rope two enormous, splendid, grey bullocks, with immense horns. They were evidently perfectly49 tame, and the woman, placing them in front of the horse, tied them to the carriage. Giuseppe helped solely50 with advice, exchanging playful glances the while with the pretty daughter, who was hopping51 about near him on one foot, the other foot, evidently wounded, being tied up with a white rag.
After much delay the procession started. The road was indeed appalling52! A narrow, steep, stony53 mountain path, over which no man in his senses would ever dream of driving a carriage. But what will not an Italian do when there is a chance of earning a few lire?
In front, leading the bullocks, walked the woman with a shawl pushed well down over her forehead. She looked sufficiently54 modest and respectful, and was also sufficiently careless and untidy, to remind one of a Russian peasant woman. The thin useless little ropes she had brought broke every minute, the ends falling and getting entangled55 in the animals’ feet. Giuseppe was furious,[136] constantly jumped off the box, and bitterly reproached the poor woman.
At last the bullocks were unharnessed, the relieved horse trotted56 gaily57 along a wider and much smoother road, and Irene thought that her troubles were over. Alas58, however! At a turn of the way appeared a peasant waiting with two other bullocks (white ones this time), and the same story began all over again. The road grew always worse and more dangerous, and Irene hardly knew whether to be more frightened or delighted with the wonderful view that greeted her gaze. Assisi, with its stone walls and towers, lay spread out before her like a fairy-fortress, with a background of blue hills, and surrounded by a frame of grey-green olive-trees and dark cypresses59. In the foreground, like carpets flung down at random60, gleamed brilliant patches of emerald grass—the whole picture, indeed, was so fresh, so lovely, so poetical61, that it might have been torn from a masterpiece by Botticelli.
At last the bullocks turned into a cavern-like opening among the rocks, from which[137] issued a whiff of cold air. They had reached the entrance to the monastery, and Irene alighted and followed the path between two stone walls. A deathlike silence surrounded her. The sun caressed63 the as yet leafless old trees, birds sang, the path grew always narrower, and at last the old gates barred the way. Irene rang the bell. A decrepit64 old door-keeper, walking with difficulty, led her into a tiny courtyard with a stone well in its centre, and passed her on to a young Franciscan, just on the point of acting65 as guide to an Englishwoman who had come from Assisi on foot.
The tiny retreat was arranged partly in natural grottos66 and partly in little cave-cells, hewn out of the rocks. The little staircases and doors were so narrow and low that one could nowhere stand upright. Here, in the twelfth century, lived, at times, St. Francis, and la sua compagnia; then, later on, St. Bernard of Siena, and many other saints. The poetic62 stillness of the place, and its sacred associations, had attracted them, and they had jealously guarded the few small[138] relics67 of St. Francis that had been left there—a tiny narrow pillow, a little box for the Holy Sacrament, and a cross.
The young Franciscan explained to the two visitors the arrangement and disposition68 of the settlement. He showed them the sort of things that are always shown in all monasteries69; an old, faded sacred image, that was superstitiously70 supposed to have on one occasion spoken to some nun, and a miraculous71 crucifix, carved from some specially72 sacred wood. Lowering his voice, the monk23 added that an influential73 cardinal74 had once taken this crucifix away to his splendid chapel in Rome, but that during the very first night after its arrival there it had disappeared, and returned miraculously75 to its old place. He showed them also the precipice76 into which St. Francis had flung the devil who had come to tempt77 him (the latter had been smashed to pieces on the stones below, and had never again returned to the settlement), and the mountain-stream, whose noisy rush had disturbed the saint’s meditations78, and whose voice he had silenced for ever.
[139]
Irene was specially touched by the little platform in the heart of the forest, from which, according to tradition, St. Francis had preached sermons to the birds. How beautiful, how poetic was this legend! Having withdrawn79 himself from human companionship, far away from men who in their pride imagine themselves to be superior beings, specially created, made of special clay, St. Francis had humbled80 himself before God’s greatness, and had understood that birds were his dear, innocent brothers. He longed to share with them the rapture81 that filled his soul, and the birds, understanding this rapture, joyfully82 sang and twittered in answer. Man was not made for solitude—and the hermit42, having isolated83 himself in the desert, found the way to salvation84 in the friendship of tame birds and beasts.…
Having once seen all the sights of Assisi, Irene seldom ventured out of doors. She spent most of her time on the little terrace of the hotel, admiring the view that was spread out before her, and growing, day by day, more attached to it. What a wealth,[140] indeed, of variety and beauty was to be found there! At seven o’clock each morning she opened her window and let in the fresh, fragrant85 air. The whole valley then seemed to be asleep, wrapped in a dewy mist. At mid-day, however, all was smiling and basking86 in floods of brilliant sunlight, and towards five in the afternoon the sun, like a great ball of fire, disappeared in the West, the sky grew pale, and light-blue shadows gradually began to draw their veils across the plain. Even lovelier still was the night, when bright stars trembled like diamonds in the dark sky, and the young moon shone as far away, as coldly, and as indifferently as she shines in the North and in the mountains. The whole great valley was dotted with little lights; the neighbouring town of Perugia made a sudden splash of brightness, and the white roads wound about mysteriously among the dark fields. The silence was indescribable; not a sound was to be heard, except, from time to time, the distant barking of a dog, or the throb87 of a far-off, passing train.
Irene began to feel the vague weariness of[141] springtime. She had experienced so much of late, and had received so many new impressions, that her mind needed rest. She did not want to think about anything. Her thoughts moved lazily; she was placidly88 happy on the little terrace, with its palms and its flowers; she had no wish to go anywhere, she wanted only to repose89 in her comfortable wicker sofa-chair, and delight in nature.
She often thought of Gzhatski, but always unwillingly90, even with displeasure.
“Why did I ever meet that man?” she thought resentfully. “Until he came, everything went well!” But for him, she would already have taken the veil, and would probably have found happiness. Why had she ever paid attention to the words of a mere91 passer-by, who had occupied himself with her affairs simply because he had nothing else to do? Very soon he would return to his Russia, where he had so many interests and so many friends, and would never even remember Irene. Perhaps it would be better to stay at Assisi until after he had left Rome.
[142]
Having arrived at this decision, Irene wrote to Père Etienne, telling him that the mountain air was agreeing with her splendidly, and that she would not return to Rome till Easter. She posted her letter, and feeling pleased and relieved, went for a stroll in the balmy evening air. What was her astonishment92 and annoyance93 when, on her return, she found Gzhatski in the entrance-hall of the hotel, eagerly questioning the proprietor94 about something. Her face expressed such frank displeasure, that Gzhatski felt provoked.
“What an unexpected meeting!” he said as naturally as possible, pretending, somewhat unsuccessfully, to be much astonished. “I was told you had taken the veil in one of the Roman convents.”
“Not yet,” smiled Irene, “but it is as a preparation for that event that I am recuperating95 here in the mountain air.”
“Yes, the air is lovely,” agreed Gzhatski, hurriedly. “And the views are beautiful. I hardly expected to find all this in the Apennines.”
Irene took it upon herself to show Gzhatski[143] all the sights of Assisi. Sergei Grigorievitch praised everything, was delighted with all he saw, was respectful to the monks who acted as guides in the churches and monasteries, and bought a whole collection of various Catholic souvenirs.
“Can you guess what I have found to amuse me in Rome?” he asked Irene one day at dinner. “I go to the churches and listen to the Catechism lessons. I assure you it is most interesting. On one side of the church sits a nun, surrounded by little girls, and on the other, a monk, with a class of little boys, to whom he addresses questions, in turn. If you could only see what lovely little faces they have! These same Italians, that are so horrid96 when they grow up, are, at the age of eight or ten, exactly like Raphael’s cherubs97. Of course, they don’t understand anything yet about the Catechism. What is the use of a catechism when the little legs of the pupils run all by themselves, so that there is no stopping them? The greater part of the lesson consists, for the ‘Pater,’ in persuading his listeners to sit still, not to swing on their[144] chairs, not to jump up, not to run about the church, and not to fight.
“It is amusing, too, to listen to their conversations with their teacher. I remember once, for instance, he asked one such little Cupid the number of the Sacraments, or something like that. The answer had to be five. The young rascal98 thought for a moment, then smiled roguishly, spread out all the five fingers of his right hand, and, silently, with a triumphant99 air, held them to the Pater’s nose. Do you imagine the priest was offended at this lack of respect? Not in the least! He is an Italian himself, and teaches his Catechism more by means of gestures than words. Oh! what amusing people! When I look at those children, I feel a great heartache because I have not a little sonlet like that of my own!”
“But why do you not get married, if you so much want to have children?”
“Get married? That is not so easy. I will tell you a conversation I once had on the subject with my small nephew Seryozha. He is my godson, and will probably be my heir.[145] We are enormous friends. When I go to stay in the country with his mother, my cousin, Seryozha never leaves me for a moment, and if only you could hear our conversations! He has the straightforward100, logical, fearless intelligence of most small boys of his age. And so, on one occasion, he announced to me that as soon as ever he grows up, he will get married, just because he wants to have little children, whom he likes. ‘There is only one trouble,’ he added, very seriously, ‘I shall have to live all the time with my wife; there is no escape.’ He said it so well, that I gave him a hearty101 kiss. You see, although I am forty, and Seryozha is only eight, he explained to me quite clearly why I do not marry.”
“The poor wife!” laughed Irene.
On the following day, Gzhatski left Assisi. Just as he was getting into the cab to go to the station, he suddenly turned to Irene, who was there to say good-bye, and exclaimed:
“By the way, I had quite forgotten. I brought you a present from Rome. Please accept it,” and he took a book from his pocket, and handed it to her.
“What is it?” stammered102 Irene vaguely103.
“It is a Life of St. Amulfia. Like you, she found that her vocation104 was to enter a convent. I thought that, as a future nun, it might be interesting and useful to you to know something of her convent life.”
Irene accepted this gift somewhat mistrustfully. It seemed suspicious, especially as Gzhatski obstinately105 avoided meeting her glance, while an ill-concealed smile trembled on his lips.
Irene went back to her favourite terrace, and for a long time watched the cab going down the hill, raising a cloud of dust. A suspicion arose in her heart, that Gzhatski had come to Assisi exclusively with the purpose of giving her this book, and she began to read it with great interest.
点击收听单词发音
1 depressed | |
adj.沮丧的,抑郁的,不景气的,萧条的 | |
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2 scent | |
n.气味,香味,香水,线索,嗅觉;v.嗅,发觉 | |
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3 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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4 monastery | |
n.修道院,僧院,寺院 | |
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5 enchanting | |
a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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6 azure | |
adj.天蓝色的,蔚蓝色的 | |
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7 turquoise | |
n.绿宝石;adj.蓝绿色的 | |
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8 velvet | |
n.丝绒,天鹅绒;adj.丝绒制的,柔软的 | |
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9 orchards | |
(通常指围起来的)果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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10 possessed | |
adj.疯狂的;拥有的,占有的 | |
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11 fortress | |
n.堡垒,防御工事 | |
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12 illuminated | |
adj.被照明的;受启迪的 | |
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13 monotonous | |
adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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14 shutters | |
百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 ); (照相机的)快门 | |
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15 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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16 alleys | |
胡同,小巷( alley的名词复数 ); 小径 | |
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17 meditatively | |
adv.冥想地 | |
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18 subdued | |
adj. 屈服的,柔和的,减弱的 动词subdue的过去式和过去分词 | |
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19 enchanted | |
adj. 被施魔法的,陶醉的,入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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20 awakening | |
n.觉醒,醒悟 adj.觉醒中的;唤醒的 | |
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21 slumbering | |
微睡,睡眠(slumber的现在分词形式) | |
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22 monks | |
n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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23 monk | |
n.和尚,僧侣,修道士 | |
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24 nuns | |
n.(通常指基督教的)修女, (佛教的)尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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25 nun | |
n.修女,尼姑 | |
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26 scattering | |
n.[物]散射;散乱,分散;在媒介质中的散播adj.散乱的;分散在不同范围的;广泛扩散的;(选票)数量分散的v.散射(scatter的ing形式);散布;驱散 | |
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27 shrine | |
n.圣地,神龛,庙;v.将...置于神龛内,把...奉为神圣 | |
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28 zealously | |
adv.热心地;热情地;积极地;狂热地 | |
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29 descended | |
a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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30 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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31 brotherhood | |
n.兄弟般的关系,手中情谊 | |
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32 primitive | |
adj.原始的;简单的;n.原(始)人,原始事物 | |
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33 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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34 touching | |
adj.动人的,使人感伤的 | |
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35 grotto | |
n.洞穴 | |
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36 homage | |
n.尊敬,敬意,崇敬 | |
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37 retired | |
adj.隐退的,退休的,退役的 | |
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38 niche | |
n.壁龛;合适的职务(环境、位置等) | |
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39 coffin | |
n.棺材,灵柩 | |
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40 attire | |
v.穿衣,装扮[同]array;n.衣着;盛装 | |
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41 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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42 hermit | |
n.隐士,修道者;隐居 | |
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43 caressingly | |
爱抚地,亲切地 | |
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44 shaft | |
n.(工具的)柄,杆状物 | |
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45 conversing | |
v.交谈,谈话( converse的现在分词 ) | |
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46 animatedly | |
adv.栩栩如生地,活跃地 | |
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47 scorching | |
adj. 灼热的 | |
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48 middle-aged | |
adj.中年的 | |
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49 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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50 solely | |
adv.仅仅,唯一地 | |
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51 hopping | |
n. 跳跃 动词hop的现在分词形式 | |
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52 appalling | |
adj.骇人听闻的,令人震惊的,可怕的 | |
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53 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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54 sufficiently | |
adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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55 entangled | |
adj.卷入的;陷入的;被缠住的;缠在一起的v.使某人(某物/自己)缠绕,纠缠于(某物中),使某人(自己)陷入(困难或复杂的环境中)( entangle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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56 trotted | |
小跑,急走( trot的过去分词 ); 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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57 gaily | |
adv.欢乐地,高兴地 | |
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58 alas | |
int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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59 cypresses | |
n.柏属植物,柏树( cypress的名词复数 ) | |
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60 random | |
adj.随机的;任意的;n.偶然的(或随便的)行动 | |
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61 poetical | |
adj.似诗人的;诗一般的;韵文的;富有诗意的 | |
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62 poetic | |
adj.富有诗意的,有诗人气质的,善于抒情的 | |
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63 caressed | |
爱抚或抚摸…( caress的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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64 decrepit | |
adj.衰老的,破旧的 | |
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65 acting | |
n.演戏,行为,假装;adj.代理的,临时的,演出用的 | |
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66 grottos | |
n.(吸引人的)岩洞,洞穴,(人挖的)洞室( grotto的名词复数 ) | |
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67 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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68 disposition | |
n.性情,性格;意向,倾向;排列,部署 | |
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69 monasteries | |
修道院( monastery的名词复数 ) | |
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70 superstitiously | |
被邪教所支配 | |
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71 miraculous | |
adj.像奇迹一样的,不可思议的 | |
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72 specially | |
adv.特定地;特殊地;明确地 | |
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73 influential | |
adj.有影响的,有权势的 | |
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74 cardinal | |
n.(天主教的)红衣主教;adj.首要的,基本的 | |
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75 miraculously | |
ad.奇迹般地 | |
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76 precipice | |
n.悬崖,危急的处境 | |
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77 tempt | |
vt.引诱,勾引,吸引,引起…的兴趣 | |
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78 meditations | |
默想( meditation的名词复数 ); 默念; 沉思; 冥想 | |
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79 withdrawn | |
vt.收回;使退出;vi.撤退,退出 | |
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80 humbled | |
adj. 卑下的,谦逊的,粗陋的 vt. 使 ... 卑下,贬低 | |
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81 rapture | |
n.狂喜;全神贯注;着迷;v.使狂喜 | |
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82 joyfully | |
adv. 喜悦地, 高兴地 | |
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83 isolated | |
adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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84 salvation | |
n.(尤指基督)救世,超度,拯救,解困 | |
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85 fragrant | |
adj.芬香的,馥郁的,愉快的 | |
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86 basking | |
v.晒太阳,取暖( bask的现在分词 );对…感到乐趣;因他人的功绩而出名;仰仗…的余泽 | |
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87 throb | |
v.震颤,颤动;(急速强烈地)跳动,搏动 | |
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88 placidly | |
adv.平稳地,平静地 | |
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89 repose | |
v.(使)休息;n.安息 | |
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90 unwillingly | |
adv.不情愿地 | |
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91 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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92 astonishment | |
n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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93 annoyance | |
n.恼怒,生气,烦恼 | |
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94 proprietor | |
n.所有人;业主;经营者 | |
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95 recuperating | |
v.恢复(健康、体力等),复原( recuperate的现在分词 ) | |
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96 horrid | |
adj.可怕的;令人惊恐的;恐怖的;极讨厌的 | |
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97 cherubs | |
小天使,胖娃娃( cherub的名词复数 ) | |
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98 rascal | |
n.流氓;不诚实的人 | |
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99 triumphant | |
adj.胜利的,成功的;狂欢的,喜悦的 | |
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100 straightforward | |
adj.正直的,坦率的;易懂的,简单的 | |
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101 hearty | |
adj.热情友好的;衷心的;尽情的,纵情的 | |
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102 stammered | |
v.结巴地说出( stammer的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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103 vaguely | |
adv.含糊地,暖昧地 | |
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104 vocation | |
n.职业,行业 | |
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105 obstinately | |
ad.固执地,顽固地 | |
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