He is followed by a young representative of modern ideas, a North Italian poetess, on a visit to Rome. She is dressed in decadent12 green draperies (that suit her perfectly13, by[196] the way!), and to the accompaniment of angular, decadent gestures, she begins to recite her lines, simply, and in a natural voice. The simplicity14 is studied, to the point of becoming almost a mannerism15. The young people, however, are delighted, especially the men, who gaze with undisguised pleasure at the beautiful poetess.
But suddenly there steps into the centre of the room a young girl amateur, the daughter of a Roman prefect. She recites some verses by d’Annunzio. This is neither the old nor the new school, but simply a burning young Italian soul, and the charming, unaffected sincerity16 of her art is rewarded by storms of applause.
To singing or piano-playing Italians listen with even still greater attention. No one talks, but each listener seems lost in rapture17. No one who can perform hesitates or affectedly18 waits to be asked half a dozen times; on the contrary, everyone is burning to show off his talent. They enjoy their own performances, and, inspired by the almost religious attention of their hearers, sing more gloriously[197] than would ever be possible in the chilly19 North.
Art, indeed, and the worship of beauty, is the only religion of the Romans. “Art for art’s sake,” they declare, as they laugh at modern realistic literature.
“Every time we attempt to represent some inward struggle,” complained a famous Italian lady novelist to Irene, “the critics hold us up to ridicule20, and say we are imitating Russian writers!”
To tell a Roman writer that his work is pervaded21 by a Christian22 spirit is to offend him deeply. He has only one ideal: his verses or his prose must as nearly as possible resemble antique art. The true Roman has a profound contempt for Christianity, a religion, in his eyes, suited only to slaves and low menials, and not to nobler natures. The Roman is a pagan, and is proud of the fact. Nineteen centuries have passed unnoticeably for him. The Eternal City, with its antique ruins, and its ancient associations, holds him enchained. In Northern Italy new ideas, new tendencies, may be possible—but[198] Rome will remain pagan for ever. Perhaps, indeed, this may explain the strong impression Rome produces on many foreigners. There are, in the world, many pagans, on whom life in Christian lands weighs heavily. They have to take part in conversations about love, about unselfishness, about kindness to one’s neighbours, etc., and, being honourable23 characters, this enforced hypocrisy24 causes them much mental torment25. In Rome, where everyone is frankly26 pagan, and not in the least ashamed of the fact, they feel like fishes in water, and often settle there for the rest of their lives.
Most humorous of all is the fact that all this pagan world lives in the shadow of the Papal throne. In the eyes of Romans, however, the Pope has never been the High-Priest of Christ on earth. He is simply the Pontifex Maximus, and does not even wish anyone to regard him in any other light. Romans, indeed, make a point of disillusioning27 every religiously inclined foreigner they come across by laughing at him and holding his pious28 ideas up to ridicule. If he returns[199] in a reverent29 mood from a visit to the tomb of St. Peter, they hasten to inform him that, according to historical evidence, the Apostle Peter had never been in Rome, and that his place of burial is unknown. As to the Apostle Paul and other Christian martyrs30, their bones were exhumed31 and their ashes thrown to the winds at the time of the Barbarian32 invasion.
Romans make jokes about their miraculous33 images, laugh at miracles, relate indecent stories about cardinals34, priests, and monks35, and present caricatures of them on the stage. No wonder, indeed, that many pious pilgrims have lost their faith in Rome.
Among the many completely pagan superstitions37 that are still extant in Roman society, the most notoriously absurd is that in connection with so-called Jetatori. Irene had heard of this superstition36 while yet in Russia, but had thought that it was in vogue38 solely39 among the ignorant lower classes of Naples. What then was her astonishment40 on coming across it in the most enlightened circles of Roman society! If a Roman passes an acquaintance in the street without[200] noticing him and bowing, or if he fails to invite him to one of his parties, the offended one revenges himself by announcing the other to be a Jetator. Thereupon, society, immediately, as one man, turns its back on the latter! If by some chance, and in the face of public opinion, some specially9 fearless soul invites a Jetator to a reception, no one dreams of speaking to him, it is considered dangerous even to look at him, and heaven forbid, indeed, that one should be obliged to sit next to him! No one even mentions him, as the very sound of his name is supposed to bring misfortune. Only great wealth and high rank can save any Roman from falling under this ban. Saddest of all, however, is the fact that the wife and children and all the relations of the Jetator share his evil influence, and, therefore, his hard fate. Irene once happened to meet, at a luncheon41 party, the accidentally invited wife of a Jetator. Two ladies, who had been obliged to sit next to the evil one, were taken seriously ill on the same day, one with her customary liver complaint, and the other with[201] a severe cold, having gone out too soon after an attack of influenza42! Both cases were, of course, attributed to the unfortunate woman, to whom, after this occurrence, every door in Rome was closed with redoubled vigilance.
Irene was astonished to find that this superstition was shared also by the majority of the foreigners in Rome, who seemed to become infected by it on their arrival, and were cured only on their departure from the Eternal City. Such a peculiarity43 can only be explained by the almost unbearable44 force of the impression that Rome makes on most strangers. In all the rest of our contemporary great cities, we live in the twentieth century. On arriving in Rome, we are suddenly plunged45 into the very heart of antiquity46, then rushed, without a moment’s warning, into the Middle Ages, with their Vatican, their churches, their convents, and their palaces, or flung into the whirlpool of the most brilliant and fashionable modernity. All these elements are bound up together, and one passes from one to the other in a day. The human mind is incapable47 of such an immense effort, becomes[202] unbalanced, and is ready to accept and believe the wildest nonsense.
Another pagan feature in the Roman character is the extraordinary attachment48 of all Romans to their native city. The first question that is put to every stranger on his arrival is: “Do you like Rome?” and woe49 to the simple-minded foreigner who answers in the negative! The dark eyes of the incredulous Roman sparkle with indignation and astonishment, which gradually give place to a pitying contempt for the ignorant simpleton! In vain the latter tries to atone50 for his mistake by remarking that he does not dislike Venice or Florence. This does not touch or interest the Romans at all. In spite of a superficial union, Italy consists, as much as ever, of a number of separate states. Admiration51 of Venice or Naples can only offend a Roman. The stranger tries hard to explain that it is impossible to admire a town that is entirely52 lacking in harmony, and in which the modern buildings erected53 by the government nearly give one convulsions, such an eyesore is their dazzling whiteness on the background of the[203] yellow, ancient city. He repeats in vain that being accustomed, at home, to broad, well-lighted avenues, he cannot but regard with disgust the narrow, dark alleys55 of the ancient quarters of Rome, while, being used to clear air and constantly watered streets, he is still more profoundly disgusted at the clouds of that particularly objectionable yellow dust that rise with every gust54 of wind blowing over Rome.
The Roman listens gloomily to the stranger, but is not convinced. He is not consoled by the admission that his city is very original, and that every educated man ought to see it. He requires and expects love and admiration for his “Cara Roma,” the adored fair one, for whom he would willingly die. Irene envied the Romans this fervour and the love of home which forced all inhabitants, before temporarily leaving the city, to drink of the water of the famous Fontana Trevi, and throw a coin into the fountain—superstitiously assuring themselves by this means that they would safely return. No other nation in the world has invented such a poetic56 superstition as this.
[204]
Being a pagan, it follows that the Roman is the most loving of fathers and the most dutiful of sons. As he knows nothing about Christianity or love and charity towards his neighbour in the broad sense, he laughs at such ideas as absurdities57, and gives all the love of his heart to his own family. On public holidays, fathers are everywhere to be seen leading by the hand tiny children in their Sunday frocks, treating them to chocolate and cakes at the fashionable confectioners, and talking caressingly58 with them. Or else one meets young married couples, accompanied by nurses who, with airs of vast importance, carry on cushions three-weeks-old infants, concealed59 under clouds of lace. Babies are not hidden away in back rooms, as in other countries. From the moment of their birth, children have their rights and privileges, and, in the arms of their nurses, receive visitors!
But although Romans love and respect their little ones, they never become the slaves of the children. On the contrary, it is the parents who are adored and deeply respected, the children seeing in them the principal[205] representatives of their race. There are in Rome countless60 aged61 fathers and mothers who live in palaces and drive about in magnificent motor-cars, while their children struggle to make both ends meet, going about on foot and living in small flats. No one would ever dream of depriving his parents of anything for his own benefit, or for the sake of his children, as, alas62! so often happens in Russia. This love of one’s race and one’s family is the foundation stone of Latin civilization. In the northern countries that have received their civilization through Christianity this love is not nearly so pronounced. Christianity does not encourage family interests, but, on the contrary, demands that all men should be brothers. Romans have succeeded in remaining deaf to these demands, and have kept their ancient Latin character. This is most noticeable in the Roman museums, where the types represented by the antique statues bear the most striking resemblance to modern Romans.
The Roman has remained true to the pagan passion for luxury and magnificence.[206] Nowhere in the world can one see so many private carriages as in Rome. No self-respecting Roman goes about on foot. He must have a carriage to drive through the Corso, and, at the fashionable hour, on the Pincio. He does not care about the elegance63 of his horses or their harness, but his carriage must have red and yellow wheels, and his grooms64 must have smart liveries. In their deep-seated victorias fashionable Roman beauties lean back lazily under their enormous ostrich-plumed hats, their knees covered, not, as elsewhere, by a common traditional plaid travelling rug, but by a magnificent bear-skin or tiger-skin, the paws hanging down over the wheels.
The prices at the Costanzi Theatre are colossal65. A box costs as much as ￡6; yet the opera is always crowded, and not only this, but the men appear in evening dress, and the ladies in low neck and diamonds! This southern cult66 of elegance and luxury, indeed, is in evidence everywhere. Roman women never wear everyday clothes. They always seem to be in fancy dress, appearing[207] in fantastic bright scarlet67, yellow, or green costumes, with golden caps and golden serpents. They all wear numerous necklaces, combs, buckles68, brooches, mostly imitations of the antique, for which Roman jewellers are famous. This style of dress would be absurd in the North, but it suits the Roman beauties to perfection.
In spite of its paganism, however, Roman society nevertheless belongs to and is closely linked with the great family of social Europe from which Russia is hopelessly separated by centuries of culture. Irene was charmed to notice, for instance, how much universal sympathy and attention were lavished69, in Roman social circles, on a foreign authoress, who was studying Roman life with a view to making it the subject of her next work. Everyone tried to help her; closed doors were opened for her, and meetings with interesting people were willingly arranged. Nobody troubled to find out whether she was talented or not, or whether her work would be translated into Italian. She had expressed a desire to work, and that was quite enough.
[208]
In the same way they helped an American, known in Europe as the Book King, to form his library. This American was a very representative example of a curious modern type produced, so far, only by the New World. Nobody knew where he had lived and what he had done in his youth. He had been born, so to say, at forty years of age, when, having made a fortune, he crossed the ocean, appeared in Paris, and announced his desire to form a library composed entirely of the works of contemporary writers, each volume to be autographed by the author, who must add a few words to explain what special idea he had intended to express in the work in question. The enterprising Yankee was profoundly ignorant, had never read anything at all, and had never heard of names known to all the world. Also he was as tactless as the majority of his compatriots; but, with true American insistence70, he applied71 to everybody, pestered72 people pitilessly, and really ended by getting together a very interesting collection of books. It was his express desire that this collection should be sent to America, and[209] should never again leave American soil; and yet, so great is Italian generosity73, on the collector’s arrival in Rome everyone helped him by making out lists of Italian writers and by introducing him to literary people.
Involuntarily, while observing all these facts, Irene’s thoughts strayed back to her own country, where, alas! things were arranged very differently. With the exception of a very limited circle of people educated in the European fashion, all the rest of Russian society is nothing but a crowd of ignorant, lazy, uncivilized bears, who spend all their lives lying half-asleep in their dens74, and sucking their paws. Woe, indeed, to him who may occasionally attempt to wish for something better than this beloved, national, loutish75 existence, or who may perhaps by chance not only have an idea, but also a vague desire to work at it! What a howl of displeasure and derision makes itself heard in all the dens! “What!” wail76 the bears, “renounce our idleness, and our laziness, and our true Russian eternal nagging77 and[210] grumbling78? How dares he! Murder! Treason! Cry him down! Kill him!”
All the rest of Europe has long been intelligent enough to understand that even the most microscopic79 effort, when added to other efforts, produces a total of labour that must be of use to all the world. Alas! It will be a very long time before the dull, stupid Russian bears are brought to understand even something so simple as this!
Irene was particularly attracted by Italian women. These charming creatures have neither nerves nor caprices. They are kind and amiable80, they make friends easily, and they are ready to be of assistance to every foreigner they come across. Never once did Irene see, at Roman gatherings81, anything resembling the anxious, world-worn expressions of the young girls who fill Petrograd drawing-rooms.
“Shall I ever meet my fate? Shall I have many children? Shall I be happy?” say their pale, sad, restless faces. Italian girls are bright and gay and happy. They delight in the sunshine, the flowers, and the[211] springtime of their own lives. They have no need to fear the future, for they know that to Italian men love is as necessary as air. They will never, indeed, have to deal with miserable82 Petrograd worldlings, who may try as they will to squeeze a drop of tenderness out of their icy hearts, but will always die without having succeeded!
Irene was quite astonished at herself for finding Italian society so attractive. She, a stranger, speaking another language, holding another faith, felt quite at home in its circles. She looked back with a shudder83 at the old days in Petrograd, and at the bitter sense of resentment84 and irritation85 with which she had invariably returned home from all social gatherings. Here, Irene delighted in those exquisite86 sensual entertainments, with their music, their singing, their recitations. On leaving them, she loved to take deep breaths of the balmy night air, feeling that soft sense of luxury that a tired wanderer experiences on getting into a warm, fragrant87 bath. “How am I to explain all this?” wondered Irene.
Alas! Like most of us, Irene did not know herself. It never occurred to her that since her earliest childhood she had never been anything but a pagan. Whereas, however, Roman paganism was hereditary88 and the result of centuries of voluntary enslavement to antique culture and its ideals, Irene’s paganism was simply a morbid89 disease. Like sufferers from progressive paralysis90, who gradually sink into a state of primitive91 bestiality, so a diseased soul not only cannot develop, but cannot even maintain itself on a level with its contemporaries, and invariably slips back to the ideals of a past civilization.
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1
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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witty
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| adj.机智的，风趣的 | |
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refreshments
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| n.点心,便餐;(会议后的)简单茶点招 待 | |
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forum
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| n.论坛，讨论会 | |
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flirtation
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| n.调情，调戏，挑逗 | |
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gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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specially
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| adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地 | |
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theatrical
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| adj.剧场的，演戏的；做戏似的，做作的 | |
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intensity
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| n.强烈，剧烈；强度；烈度 | |
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decadent
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| adj.颓废的，衰落的，堕落的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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mannerism
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| n.特殊习惯，怪癖 | |
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sincerity
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| n.真诚，诚意；真实 | |
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rapture
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| n.狂喜；全神贯注；着迷；v.使狂喜 | |
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affectedly
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chilly
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| adj.凉快的，寒冷的 | |
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ridicule
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| v.讥讽，挖苦；n.嘲弄 | |
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pervaded
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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honourable
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| adj.可敬的；荣誉的，光荣的 | |
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hypocrisy
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| n.伪善，虚伪 | |
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torment
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| n.折磨；令人痛苦的东西(人)；vt.折磨；纠缠 | |
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frankly
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| adv.坦白地，直率地；坦率地说 | |
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disillusioning
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| 使不再抱幻想，使理想破灭( disillusion的现在分词 ) | |
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pious
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| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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reverent
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| adj.恭敬的，虔诚的 | |
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martyrs
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| n.martyr的复数形式；烈士( martyr的名词复数 )；殉道者；殉教者；乞怜者（向人诉苦以博取同情） | |
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exhumed
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| v.挖出，发掘出( exhume的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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barbarian
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| n.野蛮人；adj.野蛮(人)的；未开化的 | |
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miraculous
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| adj.像奇迹一样的，不可思议的 | |
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cardinals
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| 红衣主教( cardinal的名词复数 )； 红衣凤头鸟（见于北美，雄鸟为鲜红色）； 基数 | |
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monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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superstition
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| n.迷信，迷信行为 | |
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superstitions
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| 迷信，迷信行为( superstition的名词复数 ) | |
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Vogue
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| n.时髦，时尚；adj.流行的 | |
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solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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influenza
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| n.流行性感冒，流感 | |
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peculiarity
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| n.独特性，特色；特殊的东西；怪癖 | |
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unbearable
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| adj.不能容忍的；忍受不住的 | |
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plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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incapable
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| adj.无能力的，不能做某事的 | |
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attachment
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| n.附属物，附件；依恋；依附 | |
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woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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50
atone
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| v.赎罪，补偿 | |
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51
admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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52
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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53
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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54
gust
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| n.阵风，突然一阵（雨、烟等），（感情的）迸发 | |
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55
alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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56
poetic
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| adj.富有诗意的，有诗人气质的，善于抒情的 | |
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absurdities
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| n.极端无理性( absurdity的名词复数 )；荒谬；谬论；荒谬的行为 | |
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58
caressingly
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| 爱抚地，亲切地 | |
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59
concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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62
alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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63
elegance
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| n.优雅；优美，雅致；精致，巧妙 | |
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64
grooms
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| n.新郎( groom的名词复数 )；马夫v.照料或梳洗（马等）( groom的第三人称单数 )；使做好准备；训练；（给动物）擦洗 | |
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colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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cult
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| n.异教，邪教；时尚，狂热的崇拜 | |
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67
scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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68
buckles
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| 搭扣，扣环( buckle的名词复数 ) | |
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lavished
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| v.过分给予，滥施( lavish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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insistence
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| n.坚持；强调；坚决主张 | |
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applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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pestered
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| 使烦恼，纠缠( pester的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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generosity
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| n.大度，慷慨，慷慨的行为 | |
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dens
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| n.牙齿，齿状部分；兽窝( den的名词复数 )；窝点；休息室；书斋 | |
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loutish
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| adj.粗鲁的 | |
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wail
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| vt./vi.大声哀号，恸哭；呼啸，尖啸 | |
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nagging
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| adj.唠叨的，挑剔的；使人不得安宁的v.不断地挑剔或批评（某人）( nag的现在分词 )；不断地烦扰或伤害（某人）；无休止地抱怨；不断指责 | |
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grumbling
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| adj. 喃喃鸣不平的, 出怨言的 | |
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microscopic
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| adj.微小的，细微的，极小的，显微的 | |
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amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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gatherings
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| 聚集( gathering的名词复数 )； 收集； 采集； 搜集 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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shudder
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| v.战粟，震动，剧烈地摇晃；n.战粟，抖动 | |
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resentment
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| n.怨愤，忿恨 | |
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irritation
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| n.激怒，恼怒，生气 | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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hereditary
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| adj.遗传的，遗传性的，可继承的，世袭的 | |
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morbid
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| adj.病的；致病的；病态的；可怕的 | |
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paralysis
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| n.麻痹(症)；瘫痪(症) | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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