Department of la Libertad.
Cities.—Santa Tecla, Opico (2).
Towns.—-La Libertad, Teotepeque, Quezaltepeque (3).
This Department, ranks second in importance to San Salvador, although its population is less than that of either the Departments, of Santa Ana, of Cuscatlán, or of San Miguel. It is joined by excellently-made cart-roads to both the Capital and to San Vicente. As far back as 1896, Mr. J. Imbrie Miller1, an American engineer, formerly2 a member of the Intercontinental Railway Commission, was engaged in surveying a light line of railway from La Libertad to Santa Tecla. Some years later another American, Lieutenant3 Kennon, proceeded there to take observations for connecting the triangulation with the astronomical4 monument established there by the United States Hydrographic Office.
The boundaries of this Department are as follows: On the north, the Department of Chalatenango; on the east, San Salvador and La Paz; on the south, the Pacific Ocean; on the west, the Departments of[288] Sonsonate and Santa Ana. The physical features of this part of the Republic are remarkable5. The central portion of the Department is very mountainous, being crossed from east to west by the coastal6 range of mountains and the system of the volcano of Quezaltepeque. The surface of the ground is considerably7 broken up by a great number of well-defined spurs, which extend from the mountain range to the very borders of the ocean itself. To the west of the volcano is situated8 an immense basin known as Sapotitau. The northern portion is traversed by lofty ridges9 between which are found a number of beautifully fertile plains.
Fortunately for the good people of La Libertad, the giant volcano Quezaltepeque has long ceased to trouble them, and, indeed, it is said to be extinct; it is, however, never safe to speak too confidently upon this matter, since Nature has a rude manner of disillusioning11 us at times. This particular volcano, it may be said, has been quiescent12 so long that for many years it has been regarded as quite harmless. It stands nearly 7,400 feet high above sea-level, the upper part forming a cone13 occupied by a crater14 which is between seven and eight miles in circumference15, and 1,100 feet deep; at the bottom lies a small lake.
It is in this Department that is located the famous Balsam Coast, and as I speak very fully10 elsewhere (see Chapter XVII.) of the valuable tree which grows there, with its usefulness to the country as a means of substantial revenue, it is unnecessary to do more than mention that the valleys where the trees are found are extremely fertile; and besides yielding the particular spice in question, they produce rich harvests of coffee, sugar, indigo16, corn, rice, and timber. Here are to be[289] found additionally several successful sugar refineries17 and distilleries, as well as some sawmills and many prosperous coffee estates with their rather antiquated18 machinery19 installations. In fact, the commerce of La Libertad is of prime importance, and is increasing in volume and value year by year.
The capital of the Department is Santa Tecla (New San Salvador), a town which is most agreeably situated at the foot of the volcano of San Salvador, where it nestles snugly20, absolutely indifferent to the violent reputation of its gigantic guardian21. The height above sea-level of this charming little place is 2,643 feet, and it is only ten miles distant from the Capital City. It really owes its existence to the misfortunes which overtook the former some half a century ago, and to-day it is one of the most favourite places of residence in the Republic. Wide and handsome streets and many fine residences are the principal features of Santa Tecla, which likewise boasts of a large and well-laid-out parque, several handsome drives, and its own pleasant little suburbs. Notable among its buildings are the Hospital, the Town Hall, the Government Offices, the Hospicio Guirola, built at his own expense by the late Don Angel Guirola, one of Salvador's most esteemed22 and wealthiest citizens, and two fine churches. The population amounts to between 11,000 and 11,500, and easy connection is made with San Salvador by regular trains, which have now taken the place of an old horse-railroad. The street lighting23 in the town of Santa Tecla is carried out by private enterprise, and it is very well done. In the month of March, 1907, an agreement was entered into between the Government and La Compa?ia de Alumbrado Eléctrico, of San Salvador, for the installation in the[290] city of Nueva San Salvador for the street lighting by thirty-seven arc lamps of 1,200 candle-power and ninety-three incandescent24 lamps of 16 candle-power. This agreement is for ten years, and so far it has afforded general satisfaction.
The Department of Sonsonate.
Cities.—Sonsonate, Izalco (2).
Towns.—Nahuizalco, El Progreso, Armenia (3).
This Department gains importance from two circumstances: Firstly, it contains the principal port of the Republic—Acajutla—of which a full description will be found under Chapter XVI., "Ports and Harbours"; and, secondly25, because its main city, bearing the same name, has already attained26 great commercial significance, and is rapidly rivalling the Capital itself in the volume of its trade. The boundaries of the Department are as follows: On the north, by the Department of Santa Ana; on the east, by La Libertad; on the south, by the Pacific Ocean; and on the west, by the Department of Ahuachapán. The northern portion of the ground surface is a mass of mountains, of many varied27 heights and shapes; on the coast, however, it is very level for a certain distance, from which point it rises gradually in a series of gentle slopes and rolling hills, until these lose themselves in the spurs of the surrounding mountain ranges. It is a truly enchanting28 country, as fair and as fertile as the eye could wish to dwell upon; and away from the seacoast, where it is marshy29 and damp, the climate is found to be delightful30 for the greater part of the year.
Here also some stretches of the famous Balsam Coast are to be met with, the trees being more numerous[291] and even higher, than those in the La Libertad Department.
Acajutla must always serve to bring prosperity to Sonsonate, which, as a department, was created in 1855. Its principal agricultural productions comprise coffee, cocoanuts, sugar, cacao, balsam, tobacco, cereals of almost all kinds, fruits of endless variety, and an immense number of different cabinet woods and fibres. There are a considerable number of factories erected31 in this same Department, employing many hundreds of hands, and turning out refined sugar, cigars, cotton, cloth, pottery32, mats, baskets, distilled33 liqueurs, and salt. The principal city, Sonsonate, is situated some fifty miles from San Salvador, and stands picturesquely34 upon the banks of the River Sensunapán. Comparatively speaking, this is but a small stream; nevertheless, from a scenic35 point of view, it is decidedly worthy36 of mention. It is crossed by a handsome bridge, and its banks are often used as a pleasant promenade37 and bathing-place by the inhabitants of this agreeable town.
At Sonsonate, which, with Santa Ana, is one of the several towns in Salvador on the route of the itinerant38 theatrical39 companies, there is a small wooden-built room, which forms part of the Hotel Blanco y Negro, kept by a very courteous40 and obliging Spaniard, one Se?or Arturo de Soto, who, with the profits derived41 from the cantina adjoining, finds in this undertaking42 the investment of his capital to be fairly profitable. The stage of the unambitious little playhouse is exactly 18 feet wide by 9 feet deep, so that the precise limit of the mounting of dramatic representations presented thereon may be fairly accurately43 gauged44.
The climate of Sonsonate is decidedly warm for the[292] greater part of the year, and not at all unpleasant in the dry season, except for the fearful wind-storms to which it is at times subjected. Upon these occasions the whole town is temporarily hidden in the clouds of gritty dust, which, moreover, penetrate45 every crack and crevice46 of the tightly-closed house shutters47, cover the merchants' goods exposed for sale in the shops with a thick layer of dirt, and render life generally, for the time being, something of a burden. So strong is the wind that it whirls around in a sort of wild ma?lstrom every stray piece of paper, stick, or any loose rubbish which it can gather, and then deposits them impartially48 in the patios49 and upon the roofs of the houses, at the same time making complete havoc50 of gardens and parks.
The market at Sonsonate, an important weekly function, is held on Sundays. The building, completely roofed over, as are all similar constructions in Latin-America, is crowded to excess with sellers, the numbers of buyers, however, being considerably fewer. Every kind of article is exposed for sale, from stuffed and roasted monkeys to the cheapest kind of Manchester cotton goods and cheaper German imitations. The stalls are separated into sections, and practically all of them are presided over by women. It cannot be said that the majority of the edibles52 look very tempting53 from a European point of view, being for the most part covered with grease or floating in a thick and sticky compound of fat of a bilious-yellow colour. To the local taste these articles of diet no doubt appeal strongly, since a brisk trade is a carried on in them. Cheap and tawdry fancy goods, highly-coloured and cheaply-framed religious pictures, toys, flimsy dress material, tinselly embroideries54, parrots, pencils,[293] pastry55, and other curiously56 diverse articles, are to be found displayed in immediate57 proximity58 to dried fish—emitting a powerful and pungent59 odour—live iguanas60 (a large species of edible51 lizard), squawking fowls61, and repulsive-looking chunks62 of bleeding, freshly-killed beef. Altogether an active, if not exactly an attractive, market-place, and one which offers a continually shifting scene of life and colour, enduring from sunrise to sunset.
In regard to hotel accommodation, Sonsonate is decidedly better off than many towns outside the Capital. There are at least three houses from among which the traveller may make his choice.
The Grand Hotel is situated immediately facing the railway-station, and although far from attractive externally, it is quite comfortable and clean within. The rooms, if small, are fairly well-furnished; the dining-room is kept scrupulously63 clean, and the domestic service generally is prompt and willing. The baths which are found here are not at all bad, and are likewise kept very clean. A good business is carried on, apparently64, by the proprietors65, Messrs. Brando y Emeldi, since every train on the Salvador Railway stops at Sonsonate, whether proceeding66 north or south, or, more strictly67 speaking, east or west. Before its journey from the port of Acajutla to the capital of San Salvador, the train remains68 for one hour, and the down-train remains for two hours. Inasmuch as the hotel maintains quite a respectable cellar, and there is plenty of time for the passengers to test its contents, the proprietors find this part of the hotel business a remarkably69 profitable one.
The hotel in this town of second importance is El Blanco y Negro (Black and White). The situation[294] is decidedly preferable to that of the Grand, being in a side but wide street, out of hearing range of the inevitable70 noise proceeding at the railway-station, but in other respects it is less attractive to the many.
Department of Ahuachapán.
Cities.—Ahauchapán, Atiquizaya (2).
Being the immediate neighbour of the sister Republic of Guatemala, this Department was once destined71 to become the route for the railway which was to—and may yet—connect up the two States by an iron link. It is bounded on the north and the west by this Republic, and on the east by the Departments of Sonsonate and Santa Ana. Very rugged72 and very wild is the northern part of the country, but there are several level plains north of the coastal range of mountains which crosses the country from east to west. Here are also several active volcanoes; the number of hot springs and sulphur baths should one day draw considerable visitors, more especially since the waters, medicinally speaking, are said to rank among the most wonderfully curative in the world. If these springs and baths were located anywhere but in little-known Salvador, they would probably be thronged73 with patients from all over the globe, seeking their beneficent and speedy aid against the ravages74 of blood complaints, rheumatism75, and skin diseases.
Municipal
Municipal Palace at Sonsonate, Department of Sonsonate.
As a Department, Ahuachapán was "created" in 1869, having formerly been considered as parts of the Departments of Santa Ana and Sonsonate. It possesses the unmatched Valley of Chalchuapa, which for extreme fertility and magnificent climate will compare[295] with any similar country in Latin-America. Agriculture in all of its different aspects is carried on, and prosperity uninterrupted dwells in this small earthly paradise. Coffee, sugar, tobacco, cotton, cereals, fine fruits and vegetables, grow here practically without any attention; while an active commerce is carried on, through the port of Acajutla, with other ports of the Republic, to which it sends large consignments76 of cereals and sugar. It likewise imports woollen goods and mercury from Guatemala, and cattle and mules77 from Honduras. Altogether, a thriving trade and a valuable natural production are carried on during all the year in this prosperous Department.
Ahuachapán Town has always possessed78, and must always retain, some value as a commercial centre, since it is the starting-place for the export of coffee to the coast, the route having formerly been over very precipitous and wretched trails, which, however, have latterly been much improved. One of the fords over the Rio Paz, known as Los Organos, on the trail from the aldea of Cofradias, in Guatemala, leads by a very beautiful route to the town of Ahuachapán. It has a population of between 11,000 and 12,000 inhabitants, the Department which bears the same name having a complement79 of some 37,000 people. There is a good cart-road leading to Sonsonate via Otaco and Apaneca, which are two mountain towns.
Being situated at an agreeable altitude above sea-level—2,620 feet, which is some 500 feet higher than Santa Ana—the town is more open to the winds, so that the air is generally fresh and cool, especially at nights. Ahuachapán overlooks the valleys of the Rivers Paz and Chalchuapa, while beyond them are seen the many peaks of the Guatemalian mountains,[296] as well as the outstanding volcano of San Salvador. There are but few foreigners in this town, but the courtesy and friendliness80 of the people render a stay there more than usually pleasant. The people as a whole seemed to me to be very well-to-do, and evidences of refinement81 and solid comfort were to be met with upon all sides. This prosperity emanated82, I was informed, from the many rich and productive fincas in the neighbourhood, which are engaged in growing coffee. The majority of these fincas seem to belong to quite small and humble83 proprietors. I was also impressed with the absence of the usual number of estancos, or public drinking shops, of which I counted scarcely more than six in the whole town.
There is a good social club here, which is "teetotal," and there are the usual number of churches, one of them being an extremely handsome edifice84. The Government buildings and the residence of the Governor are sufficiently85 imposing86; the streets are both well paved and well drained. The majority of the houses are built of adobe87, but some are of brick, and one or two are of stone, or at least they are stone-faced. Most of the better-class residences, however, are stuccoed with either brown, white, or coloured plaster on the side which faces the street. There seemed to be an abundant supply of good water available, free baths being provided and also apparently well patronized. I had noticed the same thing in Cojutepeque and other Salvadorean towns, proving that the inhabitants pay strict regard to cleanliness. The Ahuachapán public baths have a continuous supply of warm water, which is received from the neighbouring hot springs.
An efficient police force keeps the town in perfect[297] order; but there are still lacking a good hotel, a livery stable, and a theatre. The latter is not essential, but it is a luxury which is usually found in Central and South American towns which cannot even boast of a single drainpipe. The same thing was noticeable in Johannesburg, South Africa, some twenty years after the town had the electric light and the telephone. The town of Ahuachapán is a quiet, sleepy, and eminently88 peaceful place of residence, where one might dream away one's life contentedly89 enough if one were prepared to do without driving, without amusements, and without either dentists, doctors, or daily papers.
There was once some talk of bringing the railway line through Ahuachapán from Montufar (Guatemala) to Sonsonate; but the construction, although perfectly90 practicable, would be so heavy and so costly91 that I am doubtful whether the peaceful solitude92 of this district—for some time at least—will be broken by the shrill93 scream of the locomotive whistle.
Department of Santa Ana.
Cities.—Santa Ana, Chalchuapa, Metapán (3).
Towns.—Texistepeque, Coatepeque (2).
The boundaries of this Department bring it into immediate contact with Honduras and Guatemala on the north, while on the east are the Departments of La Libertad and Chalatenango. Sonsonate is on the south, and Guatemala and the Department of Ahuachapán are on the west.
Two extensive ranges of mountains cover this territory, one on the north, and the other from east to west, two imposing mountains, Santa Ana and Mala Cara, both of which are active, rearing their shapely[298] heads in this Department. In addition there are three extinct volcanoes—Masatepeque, San Diego, and La Isla. Where there are no mountains, magnificent valleys—fertile from end to end—stretch away for many leagues, watered by two rivers, one of which is the Malino, and the other the Lempa, which latter, with its many affluents94, curves through this favoured country. As a Department, Santa Ana came into existence in February, 1855, having previously95 formed first a part of the ancient province of Sonsonate, and after that comprising the two districts of Ahuachapán and Atiquizaya.
The chief city, which bears the same name, is the largest—outside San Salvador—in the Republic, and, indeed, is ranked as one of the most important in Central America. The location is a pleasant one, being on the west side of the valley of the Malino. The elevation96 is about 2,100 feet above sea-level, and softly undulating green hills almost entirely97 surround it. The city is well laid out and solidly built, with many notable structures, while the streets are lighted by electricity and are well paved. Owing, however, to the steepness of some of the thoroughfares, this city being also constructed upon the sloping side of the valley, torrents98 of water come tumbling down in rainy weather, converting the crossings for the time being into miniature cataracts99. On the other hand, the natural drainage is excellent, and as a consequence Santa Ana ranks as one of the cleanest and most healthful towns in the country. This is all the more notable because the Municipality at the time that I visited the place had not completed the drainage system, which I understood was then about to be introduced, while the public water-supply was not yet[299] perfect. I noticed several public bathing-places which were completely open to the air; these were not, however, provided with hot water.
The number of prosperous-looking business houses and handsome private residences in Santa Ana at once arrest the attention of a visitor, as does the general air of prosperity which reigns100 throughout the place. The commercial and financial houses do about as much business in this town in a day as they carry through in all the other parts of the Republic—the capital excepted—in a week. The market-house, a building of considerable magnitude, is usually very well attended, and almost any kind of fruit and vegetable can be purchased there.
Santa Ana contains, perhaps, a greater proportion of resident foreigners than any other town or city in Salvador. It is partly due to this that so much commerce is carried on. The town is but fifty miles distant from the Capital, and it is easily reached by the Salvador Railway, which naturally carries considerable traffic both to and from the town. From Santa Ana there is a first-rate cart-road conducting north to Metapán, and another leading south to Sonsonate and to the port of Acajutla.
The temperature, as a rule, in this city renders life very pleasant. During the rainy months of August, September, and October it varies between 67° and 69° F., the maximum being between 72° and 78° F.
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1
miller
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| n.磨坊主 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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astronomical
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| adj.天文学的，（数字）极大的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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coastal
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| adj.海岸的，沿海的，沿岸的 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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disillusioning
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| 使不再抱幻想，使理想破灭( disillusion的现在分词 ) | |
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quiescent
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| adj.静止的，不活动的，寂静的 | |
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cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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circumference
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| n.圆周，周长，圆周线 | |
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indigo
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| n.靛青，靛蓝 | |
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refineries
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| 精炼厂( refinery的名词复数 ) | |
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antiquated
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| adj.陈旧的，过时的 | |
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machinery
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| n.(总称)机械，机器；机构 | |
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snugly
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| adv.紧贴地；贴身地；暖和舒适地；安适地 | |
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guardian
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| n.监护人；守卫者，保护者 | |
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esteemed
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| adj.受人尊敬的v.尊敬( esteem的过去式和过去分词 )；敬重；认为；以为 | |
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lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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incandescent
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| adj.遇热发光的， 白炽的，感情强烈的 | |
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secondly
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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varied
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enchanting
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| a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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marshy
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| adj.沼泽的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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pottery
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| n.陶器，陶器场 | |
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distilled
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| adj.由蒸馏得来的v.蒸馏( distil的过去式和过去分词 )；从…提取精华 | |
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picturesquely
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scenic
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| adj.自然景色的，景色优美的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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promenade
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itinerant
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| adj.巡回的；流动的 | |
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theatrical
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| adj.剧场的，演戏的；做戏似的，做作的 | |
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courteous
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| adj.彬彬有礼的，客气的 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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accurately
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| adv.准确地，精确地 | |
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gauged
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| adj.校准的；标准的；量规的；量计的v.（用仪器）测量( gauge的过去式和过去分词 )；估计；计量；划分 | |
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penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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crevice
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| n.(岩石、墙等)裂缝；缺口 | |
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shutters
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| 百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 )； （照相机的）快门 | |
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impartially
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| adv.公平地，无私地 | |
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patios
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| n.露台，平台( patio的名词复数 ) | |
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havoc
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| n.大破坏，浩劫，大混乱，大杂乱 | |
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edible
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| n.食品，食物；adj.可食用的 | |
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edibles
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| 可以吃的，可食用的( edible的名词复数 )； 食物 | |
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tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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embroideries
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| 刺绣( embroidery的名词复数 )； 刺绣品； 刺绣法 | |
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pastry
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| n.油酥面团，酥皮糕点 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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proximity
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| n.接近，邻近 | |
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pungent
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| adj.（气味、味道）刺激性的，辛辣的；尖锐的 | |
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iguanas
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| n. 美洲蜥蜴 名词iguana的复数形式 | |
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fowls
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| 鸟( fowl的名词复数 )； 禽肉； 既不是这； 非驴非马 | |
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chunks
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| 厚厚的一块( chunk的名词复数 )； （某物）相当大的数量或部分 | |
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scrupulously
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| adv.一丝不苟地；小心翼翼地，多顾虑地 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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proprietors
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| n.所有人，业主( proprietor的名词复数 ) | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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thronged
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| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ravages
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| 劫掠后的残迹，破坏的结果，毁坏后的残迹 | |
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rheumatism
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| n.风湿病 | |
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consignments
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| n.托付货物( consignment的名词复数 )；托卖货物；寄售；托运 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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complement
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| n.补足物，船上的定员；补语；vt.补充，补足 | |
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friendliness
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| n.友谊，亲切，亲密 | |
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refinement
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| n.文雅；高尚；精美；精制；精炼 | |
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emanated
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| v.从…处传出，传出( emanate的过去式和过去分词 )；产生，表现，显示 | |
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humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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adobe
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| n.泥砖，土坯，美国Adobe公司 | |
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eminently
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| adv.突出地；显著地；不寻常地 | |
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contentedly
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| adv.心满意足地 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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costly
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| adj.昂贵的，价值高的，豪华的 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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affluents
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| n.富裕的，富足的( affluent的名词复数 ) | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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cataracts
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| n.大瀑布( cataract的名词复数 )；白内障 | |
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reigns
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| n.君主的统治( reign的名词复数 )；君主统治时期；任期；当政期 | |
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