MY friend explained to the Sheykh my desire to set up an easel in some parts of his house. A suspicious fear added to his wish to please gave me an uncomfortable feeling of having presumed on the good man’s hospitality. It took some time to clear his mind of any prejudicial effects which might ensue on my working here. Picture painting is so foreign to the Moslem’s education, and strictly1 speaking is a breach2 of Koranic law, that a slight hesitation3 in giving me permission is understandable. The likeness4 of nothing, which is in heaven above or in the earth beneath, hung on his walls to assist us in explaining the nature of my work; and that veil which is ever in a degree between the western and the oriental mind seemed thickened for a while. The wish to please, however, predominated over the suspicious fears, and he bade us farewell with the assurance that his house was at my disposal.
It was days before I returned, as I wished to complete a street scene I was then engaged on. I had lost my guide, philosopher, and friend, Mohammed, whom I did not wish to do out of a lucrative5 job up the Nile, and I had in his stead one with a plausible6 exterior7, but58 possessing none of the virtues8 and all the vices9 which go to make up a dragoman. To work in the streets and bazaars10 in Cairo without a man to keep off the small boys is almost an impossibility, and much of one’s comfort depends on the tact12 and willingness of the man one employs.
Mansoor (to give him an alias) spoke13 and read English remarkably14 well, and having learnt like a parrot some sentences concerning the Pyramids and some of the chief monuments of Cairo, he was in hopes of soon obtaining a dragoman’s licence. Without this licence, happily, none may guide the tourist, and as an examination of sorts is now required, and also a character from some previous employer as to the good behaviour of the applicant15, the tourist may run less risk in future of being hopelessly swindled than he did in earlier days. But acting16 merely as my servant, such licence was not a necessity. He had an irritating way of giving me uncalled-for information. The parrot-like sentences he had stored in his memory were repeated each time we passed a monument the tourist is taken to see. These might have been amusing had I not heard them ad nauseam before. I did not check him at first, and I even tried to supplement some facts absent from the little book which he had learnt by heart. His usual answer, ‘This is all the dragomans say,’ discouraged me from trying to teach him anything.
The Khan Khalil was the school in which the true tricks of his trade were to be studied. While I worked there, Mansoor would crawl about listening to the prices paid for the various purchases, and probably59 passed sleepless17 nights till he had found out about the commission the guides had obtained for bringing a customer. His smart clothes and his fluent English must have imposed on many a stall-holder that he was either a licensed18 dragoman or was shortly to become one. Coffee and cigarettes were pressed on him at whatever mastaba he deigned19 to sit.
While I worked in a mosque20 not far from this bazaar11 he would sit at the window and watch for tourists. Several times he had an uncle to bury. He would explain that there was only just time for him to pay his last respects to his deceased relative, and if I would let him go he would be sure to be back by the time I was prepared to leave. I would tell him to go and bury his relative, and had he asked to bury himself, I was prepared by this time to give him my full permission.
The last time he left me on his sorrowful errand, I mounted on to the window-sill where he was wont21 to watch for the prey22 as yet withheld23 from him. I saw a party of tourists just disappearing into an alley24 leading into the Khan Khalil, while Mansoor was questioning the driver of one of the cabs which they had left, and then he also was lost in the shadow of the selfsame alley. He returned some time after I was ready to start for my hotel, and I told him that as he had taken so long in burying his uncle, he should attend no more funerals while he was in my service. To be told a lie is seldom pleasant; but a very stupid lie reflects on the intelligence of the hearer, and this may partly have accounted for my growing dislike of this man.
I had unfortunately not found another to take his60 place when I went to the house of the Sheykh Saheime to start a drawing. I was most courteously25 received, and was told to ask for anything which I might require. I began a drawing from the anteroom of the mandara looking into the court and through the passage, which also led to the stairs of the former hareem. I did not wish to begin a too elaborate subject till I felt more sure that repeated visits were not inconvenient26 to my host. Mansoor joined the doorkeeper and the eunuch on their bench at the front entrance, where he doubtless enhanced his own importance by lying about my riches and relationship to the various high English officials in Cairo. The inconvenience of such lies is that a tip proportionate to such imagined wealth is looked forward to. He came presently as the bearer of a message from the Sheykh, that had the latter known I was coming that day, he would have prepared a dinner for me; but that he hoped I would return on the following morning and would honour him with my presence at the midday meal. I was grateful for his kind intentions, and yet sorry that I might be putting him to some trouble and inconvenience. I wished to come here often, and would only feel comfortable about doing so if I felt sure that I was not disturbing him.
Not feeling sure as to my intentions, he came himself, and was not satisfied till I had promised to dine with him the next day. Mansoor was later cross-questioned as to whether I liked such and such a dish. Did I always eat with a knife and fork? He supposed I sat on a chair while I fed, and could Christians27 get through a meal without strong drink? Such questions were61 duly repeated to me, so I sent my man back to the Sheykh with a message that the more the dinner was as he was accustomed to have it, the more I should appreciate his hospitality.
I was there early on the following morning, as I wished to complete my drawing before the meal took place. I had a good long paint with no other company but a weasel, which is often seen in Egyptian houses to keep off the mice and rats, or whatever one chooses to call that creature which is too large for the former and too small for the latter. I know of but one name for either of these pests, and firán does duty for both. Cats are also household pets, but are less adaptable29 for spying out the secret places where the firán are wont to nest their young.
A message came from the Sheykh to know if I wanted my dinner at twelve or at one o’clock. I sent Mansoor to find out what his usual hour was, and being told that it was just after the midday prayer, I sent word that no other time would suit me better.
About half-past twelve the Sheykh appeared, followed by a gentleman in European clothes and a ‘tarbouch.’ I was introduced, and informed that this was a cousin and a judge of a native tribunal. I was relieved to find that the judge spoke French fluently, for my Arabic is liable to fail me if put to too severe a test. They seemed interested in my drawing, and held it close to their eyes to enable them to decipher the text engraved30 on the lintel of the door. It is a never-failing surprise to Easterns if they can read any lettering which one may have introduced in a drawing. ‘The ghawaga62 says he can’t write Arabic; then how is it that we can read what he has here written?’ My explanation that I had merely copied the strokes and dots which I saw before my nose seldom satisfied these inquiries31, and generally left a suspicion of something uncanny. Needless to say here that the lady now shown in the illustration was non-existent at that time, and not being of the beau sexe myself, the privilege of seeing one at any time in this house was not to be expected. There are still some things left which the painter may do and which are still beyond the power of the camera.
Now, a word of warning to any one who may be about to dine for the first time with one of the Near East. To put it crudely: Come with an empty stomach and eat as sparingly of the first dishes as you can. They may be very good; but our powers of absorption may fail us, and we might have to pass several subsequent courses untouched, which might be taken as a slight to the quality of the fare. I was prepared for this, and had made a very light breakfast. The grace, repeated in a low voice by the master, is always impressive: ‘Bi-smi-lláhi-r-ra?mani-r-ra?eem’ (In the name of God, the Compassionate32, the Merciful), and the smell of the savoury dish which had been placed before us made the ‘Tafaddal’ or invitation to sit down doubly welcome. Chairs had been borrowed, as a concession33 doubtless to the requirements of the Ferangi, and a plate, knife, and fork were also placed before me. I dismissed the latter articles as only being necessary to cut up the tougher food of Europeans, and as quite useless with the tenderer dishes of the63 Muslemeen. The Sheykh seemed pleased at this and, as is the custom, first tasted of the dish.
When I tore a piece off the thin flat loaf placed before me and, doubling it, I hooked a piece of meat out of the dish, he exclaimed that I had eaten in Arab fashion before. The judge agreed with me that with Arab dishes he did not see where a knife and fork came in. Not partaking so freely of the yachnee as to satisfy our host, he took a delicate morsel34 out of the stew35 and handed it to me.
The manner of eating with the fingers seems strange at first; but it is astonishing how soon one gets accustomed to it, and also how much more delicate it seems than when described to those who may never have witnessed it. The right hand should always be used if possible, and should a fowl36 be served, it is polite to catch hold of one leg, so as to enable the master to dismember the bird without having to use his left hand. It may take as long to learn the etiquette37 pertaining38 to the Arab mode of eating as for an Arab to acquire all the niceties observed at an English table. Should a stranger, however, from want of experience do something contrary to the usages of the country, an oriental will pretend not to notice it, as a well-bred Englishman would do if the cases were reversed.
Dish followed on dish; when some sweetstuffs were placed on the table my hopes revived, till they were replaced by yet another stew. My powers of absorption had about reached their limit. I appealed to my host to consider the limited dimensions of my lower waist, and that that only prevented me from doing full64 justice to his generous fare. This had some effect, and I was let off with a tit-bit which he politely handed to me in his fingers. ‘El-?amdu li-lláh!’ (Praise be to God) from the judge, who rose up and continued the conversation while washing his hands, was the abrupt39 sign that our feast was at an end.
A servant held a brass40 basin while a second poured the water from a ewer41 over my hands, and, our ablutions at an end, we were conducted to the takhtabosh to sip42 our coffee and smoke. I was asked where I had dined before in Arab fashion, and my host was interested to hear about some dishes peculiar43 to Morocco, also how I had fared with the Druses in the Lebanon. An Arab meal, in fact, was not in itself a novelty to me; but, as I explained to the Sheykh, I had never dined in such beautiful surroundings. We got on to the subject of Japan, where the mode of eating is much more difficult to acquire than that of the Near East. My hearers showed a much greater interest in things Japanese than I expected, for as a rule a Moslem’s sympathies rarely extend to countries beyond the sway of Islam. How I had got on without meat, bread, milk or butter surprised them, and settled any possible doubts as to whether they might wish to go there themselves. I am told that during the Russo-Japanese war events were followed with keen interest in Egypt. Every victory of the Japanese was construed44 into a victory of a non-Christian28 people over a Christian power—of the Asiatic over the European. When a book I had written on my experiences in Japan appeared at the Cairo booksellers’, I was interviewed by the editor of an Arabic paper to give him as many particulars as I could concerning Japan.
Page 64
THE TAKHTABOSH
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65 I avoided all talk as to the present régime in Egypt. Though one of my hearers had a safe billet, and the Sheykh probably felt a greater security for the property he holds than he would if our occupation of Egypt ceased, nevertheless the sting of being governed by the unbelievers is always there, let the unbeliever’s yoke45 be ever so light a one.
A suspicion that I might be hindering the afternoon nap induced me to bid farewell to my host and the judge.
Mansoor had been having a good time feasting with the servants, and when he joined me I asked him to divide a riyal between those who had served me. I watched him present the money to one of them and in the presence of the others, for I had reason to suspect his honesty. I could not hear the talk which followed, but saw the money passed on to a boy, who was told to go to a shop and change it. I saw no object in waiting any longer, so left the house. Mansoor wished to stay behind, and as I did not see why he should get any of the tip, I made him come with me. In the main street I hailed a passing cab. Mansoor now seemed rather disturbed and asked if he could go back. ‘The boy will not know where to bring the change of the riyal.’ ‘Did you not tell the boy to give the changed money to be divided among the servants?’ I asked. ‘No, I did not say it was for the servants,’ he answered, with the look of a detected thief; ‘I told him to bring the change back to you, sir. Please66 allow me to return to the house and I will tell them what your intentions were.’ I could not return myself to see the matter through, as I remembered an appointment I had to keep, and I let the man go. It dawned on me as I drove to my hotel that Mansoor’s object in hanging behind was to intercept46 the boy returning with the change and to pocket the lot himself.
Explaining the circumstances to one who had had a long experience of native servants, I was assured that my suspicions were not unfounded. This villain47, who had been well entertained by the servants of the house, had conceived this ingenious manner of robbing them of their gratuity48.
When he turned up the next morning I told him I should want him no longer. Seeming to question the reason of his sudden dismissal, I suggested a police inquiry49 as to the disposal of the riyal. He wished to hear no more, and vanished like the ghost who was asked for a subscription50.
Now this is a type of man who, but for the salutary regulation as to granting licences, would have become a dragoman, and have reaped a good harvest, during the short season, by robbing the tourist by day, and conducting others by night to witness every kind of abomination.
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1
strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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breach
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| n.违反，不履行；破裂；vt.冲破，攻破 | |
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hesitation
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| n.犹豫，踌躇 | |
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likeness
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| n.相像，相似（之处） | |
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lucrative
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| adj.赚钱的，可获利的 | |
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6
plausible
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| adj.似真实的，似乎有理的，似乎可信的 | |
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7
exterior
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| adj.外部的，外在的；表面的 | |
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8
virtues
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| 美德( virtue的名词复数 )； 德行； 优点； 长处 | |
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vices
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| 缺陷( vice的名词复数 )； 恶习； 不道德行为； 台钳 | |
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10
bazaars
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| （东方国家的）市场( bazaar的名词复数 )； 义卖； 义卖市场； （出售花哨商品等的）小商品市场 | |
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bazaar
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| n.集市，商店集中区 | |
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12
tact
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| n.机敏，圆滑，得体 | |
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13
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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applicant
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| n.申请人，求职者，请求者 | |
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acting
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| n.演戏，行为，假装；adj.代理的，临时的，演出用的 | |
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sleepless
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| adj.不睡眠的，睡不著的，不休息的 | |
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licensed
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| adj.得到许可的v.许可，颁发执照(license的过去式和过去分词) | |
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deigned
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| v.屈尊，俯就( deign的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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wont
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| adj.习惯于；v.习惯；n.习惯 | |
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prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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23
withheld
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| withhold过去式及过去分词 | |
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alley
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| n.小巷，胡同；小径，小路 | |
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courteously
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| adv.有礼貌地，亲切地 | |
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inconvenient
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| adj.不方便的，令人感到麻烦的 | |
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Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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adaptable
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| adj.能适应的，适应性强的，可改编的 | |
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30
engraved
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| v.在（硬物）上雕刻（字，画等）( engrave的过去式和过去分词 )；将某事物深深印在（记忆或头脑中） | |
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inquiries
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| n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 )；疑问；探究；打听 | |
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32
compassionate
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| adj.有同情心的，表示同情的 | |
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concession
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| n.让步，妥协；特许(权) | |
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morsel
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| n.一口，一点点 | |
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stew
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| n.炖汤，焖，烦恼；v.炖汤，焖，忧虑 | |
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fowl
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| n.家禽，鸡，禽肉 | |
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etiquette
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| n.礼仪，礼节；规矩 | |
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pertaining
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| 与…有关系的，附属…的，为…固有的(to) | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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40
brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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41
ewer
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| n.大口水罐 | |
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42
sip
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| v.小口地喝，抿，呷；n.一小口的量 | |
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43
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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44
construed
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| v.解释（陈述、行为等）( construe的过去式和过去分词 )；翻译，作句法分析 | |
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45
yoke
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| n.轭；支配；v.给...上轭，连接，使成配偶 | |
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46
intercept
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| vt.拦截，截住，截击 | |
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47
villain
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| n.反派演员，反面人物；恶棍；问题的起因 | |
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48
gratuity
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| n.赏钱，小费 | |
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49
inquiry
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| n.打听，询问，调查，查问 | |
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50
subscription
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| n.预订，预订费，亲笔签名，调配法，下标（处方） | |
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