Streets where an L runs have a fascination5 of their own. They have a shadowy gloom, speckled and striped with the sunlight that slips through the trestles. West Broadway, which along most of its length is straddled by the L, is a channel of odd humours. Its real name, you know, is South Fifth Avenue; but the Avenue got so snobbish7 it insisted on its humbler brother changing its name. Let us take it from Spring Street southward.
[101]Ribbons, purple, red, and green, were the first thing to catch our eye. Not the ribbons of the milliner, however, but the carbon tapes of the typewriter, big cans of them being loaded on a junk wagon8. "Purple Ribbons" we have often thought, would be a neat title for a volume of verses written on a typewriter. What happens to the used ribbons of modern poets? Mr. Hilaire Belloc, or Mr. Chesterton, for instance. Give me but what these ribbons type and all the rest is merely tripe6, as Edmund Waller might have said. Near the ribbons we saw a paper-box factory, where a number of high-spirited young women were busy at their machines. A broad strip of thick green paint was laid across the lower half of the windows so that these immured9 damsels might not waste their employers' time in watching goings on along the pavement.
Broome and Watts10 streets diverge11 from West Broadway in a V. At the corner of Watts is one of West Broadway's many saloons, which by courageous12 readjustments still manage to play their useful part. What used to be called the "Business Men's Lunch" now has a tendency to name itself "Luncheonette" or "Milk Bar." But the old decorations remain. In this one you will see the electric fixtures13 wrapped in heavy lead foil, the kind of sheeting that is used in packages of tea. At the corner of Grand Street is the Sapphire14 Café, and what could be a more appealing name than that? "Delicious Chocolate with Whipped Cream," says a sign outside the Sapphire. And some way farther down (at the corner of White Street) is a jolly old tavern15 which looked so antique and inviting16 that we [102]went inside. Little tables piled high with hunks of bread betokened17 the approaching lunch hour. A shimmering18 black cat winked19 a drowsy20 topaz eye from her lounge in the corner. We asked for cider. There was none, but our gaze fell upon a bottle marked "Irish Moss21." We asked for some, and the barkeep pushed the bottle forward with a tiny glass. Irish Moss, it seems, is the kind of drink which the customer pours out for himself, so we decanted22 a generous slug. It proved to be a kind of essence of horehound, of notable tartness23 and pungency24, very like a powerful cough syrup25. We wrote it off on our ledger26 as experience. Beside us stood a sturdy citizen with a freight hook round his neck, deducing a foaming27 crock of the legitimate28 percentage.
The chief landmark29 of that stretch of West Broadway is the tall spire30 of St. Alphonsus' Church, near Canal Street. Up the steps and through plain brown doors we went into the church, which was cool, quiet, and empty, save for a busy charwoman with humorous Irish face. Under the altar canopy31 wavered a small candle spark, and high overhead, in the dimness, were orange and scarlet32 gleams from a stained window. A crystal chandelier hanging in the aisle33 caught pale yellow tinctures of light. No Catholic church, wherever you find it, is long empty; a man and a girl entered just as we went out. At each side of the front steps the words Copiosa apud eum redemtio are carved in the stone. The mason must have forgotten the p in the last word. A silver plate on the brick house next door says Redemptorist Fathers.
[103]York Street, running off to the west, gives a glimpse of the old Hudson River Railroad freight depot34. St. John's Lane, running across York Street, skirts the ruins of old St. John's Church, demolished35 when the Seventh Avenue subway was built. On the old brown house at the corner some urchin36 has chalked the word crazy. Perhaps this is an indictment37 of adult civilization as a whole. If one strolls thoughtfully about some of these streets—say Thompson Street—on a hot day, and sees the children struggling to grow up, he feels like going back to that word crazy and italicizing it. The tiny triangle of park at Beach Street is carefully locked up, you will notice—the only plot of grass in that neighbourhood—so that bare feet cannot get at it. Superb irony38 of circumstance: on the near corner stands the Castoria factory, Castoria being (if we remember the ads) what Mr. Fletcher gave baby when she was sick.
Where Varick Street runs in there is a wide triangular39 spread, and this, gentle friends, is Finn Park, named for a New York boy who was killed in France. The name reminded us also of Elfin Finn, the somewhat complacent40 stage child who poses for chic41 costumes in Vogue42. We were wondering which was a more hazardous43 bringing up for a small girl, living on Thompson Street or posing for a fashion magazine. From Finn Square there is a stirring view of the Woolworth Tower. Also of Claflin's packing cases on their way off to Selma, Ala., and Kalamazoo, Mich., and to Nathan Povich, Bath, Me. That conjunction of Finn and Bath, Me., suggested to us that the empty space [104]there would be a good place to put in a municipal swimming pool for the urchins44 of the district.
Drawn45 from the wood, which legend still stands on the pub at the corner of Duane Street, sounds a bit ominous46 these wood alcohol days. John Barleycorn may be down, but he's never out, as someone has remarked. For near Murray Street you will find one of those malt-and-hops places which are getting numerous. They contain all the necessary equipment for—well, as the signs suggest, for making malt bread and coffee cake—bottle-capping apparatus47 and rubber tubing and densimeters, and all such things used in breadmaking. As the signs say: "Malt syrup for making malt bread, coffee, cake, and medicinal purposes."
To conclude the scenic pleasures of the Sixth Avenue L route, we walk through the cool, dark, low-roofed tunnel of Church Street in those interesting blocks just north of Vesey. We hark to the merry crowing of the roosters in the Barclay Street poultry48 stores; and we look past the tall gray pillars of St. Peter's Church at the flicker49 of scarlet and gold lights near the altar. The black-robed nuns50 one often sees along Church Street, with their pale, austere51, hooded52 faces, bring a curious touch of medievalism into the roaring tide that flows under the Hudson Terminal Building. They always walk in twos, which seems to indicate an even greater apprehension53 of the World. And we always notice, as we go by the pipe shop at the corner of Barclay Street, that this worthy54 merchant has painted some inducements on one side of his shop; which reminds us [105]of the same device used by the famous tobacconist Bacon, in Cambridge, England. Why, we wonder, doesn't our friend fill the remaining blank panel on his side wall by painting there some stanzas55 from Calverley's "Ode to Tobacco?" We will gladly give him the text to copy if he wants it.
点击收听单词发音
1 inflict | |
vt.(on)把…强加给,使遭受,使承担 | |
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2 scenic | |
adj.自然景色的,景色优美的 | |
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3 itinerary | |
n.行程表,旅行路线;旅行计划 | |
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4 frugal | |
adj.节俭的,节约的,少量的,微量的 | |
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5 fascination | |
n.令人着迷的事物,魅力,迷恋 | |
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6 tripe | |
n.废话,肚子, 内脏 | |
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7 snobbish | |
adj.势利的,谄上欺下的 | |
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8 wagon | |
n.四轮马车,手推车,面包车;无盖运货列车 | |
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9 immured | |
v.禁闭,监禁( immure的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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10 watts | |
(电力计量单位)瓦,瓦特( watt的名词复数 ) | |
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11 diverge | |
v.分叉,分歧,离题,使...岔开,使转向 | |
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12 courageous | |
adj.勇敢的,有胆量的 | |
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13 fixtures | |
(房屋等的)固定装置( fixture的名词复数 ); 如(浴盆、抽水马桶); 固定在某位置的人或物; (定期定点举行的)体育活动 | |
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14 sapphire | |
n.青玉,蓝宝石;adj.天蓝色的 | |
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15 tavern | |
n.小旅馆,客栈;小酒店 | |
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16 inviting | |
adj.诱人的,引人注目的 | |
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17 betokened | |
v.预示,表示( betoken的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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18 shimmering | |
v.闪闪发光,发微光( shimmer的现在分词 ) | |
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19 winked | |
v.使眼色( wink的过去式和过去分词 );递眼色(表示友好或高兴等);(指光)闪烁;闪亮 | |
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20 drowsy | |
adj.昏昏欲睡的,令人发困的 | |
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21 moss | |
n.苔,藓,地衣 | |
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22 decanted | |
v.将(酒等)自瓶中倒入另一容器( decant的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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23 tartness | |
n.酸,锋利 | |
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24 pungency | |
n.(气味等的)刺激性;辣;(言语等的)辛辣;尖刻 | |
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25 syrup | |
n.糖浆,糖水 | |
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26 ledger | |
n.总帐,分类帐;帐簿 | |
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27 foaming | |
adj.布满泡沫的;发泡 | |
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28 legitimate | |
adj.合法的,合理的,合乎逻辑的;v.使合法 | |
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29 landmark | |
n.陆标,划时代的事,地界标 | |
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30 spire | |
n.(教堂)尖顶,尖塔,高点 | |
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31 canopy | |
n.天篷,遮篷 | |
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32 scarlet | |
n.深红色,绯红色,红衣;adj.绯红色的 | |
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33 aisle | |
n.(教堂、教室、戏院等里的)过道,通道 | |
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34 depot | |
n.仓库,储藏处;公共汽车站;火车站 | |
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35 demolished | |
v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 );推翻;拆毁(尤指大建筑物);吃光 | |
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36 urchin | |
n.顽童;海胆 | |
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37 indictment | |
n.起诉;诉状 | |
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38 irony | |
n.反语,冷嘲;具有讽刺意味的事,嘲弄 | |
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39 triangular | |
adj.三角(形)的,三者间的 | |
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40 complacent | |
adj.自满的;自鸣得意的 | |
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41 chic | |
n./adj.别致(的),时髦(的),讲究的 | |
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42 Vogue | |
n.时髦,时尚;adj.流行的 | |
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43 hazardous | |
adj.(有)危险的,冒险的;碰运气的 | |
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44 urchins | |
n.顽童( urchin的名词复数 );淘气鬼;猬;海胆 | |
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45 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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46 ominous | |
adj.不祥的,不吉的,预兆的,预示的 | |
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47 apparatus | |
n.装置,器械;器具,设备 | |
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48 poultry | |
n.家禽,禽肉 | |
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49 flicker | |
vi./n.闪烁,摇曳,闪现 | |
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50 nuns | |
n.(通常指基督教的)修女, (佛教的)尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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51 austere | |
adj.艰苦的;朴素的,朴实无华的;严峻的 | |
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52 hooded | |
adj.戴头巾的;有罩盖的;颈部因肋骨运动而膨胀的 | |
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53 apprehension | |
n.理解,领悟;逮捕,拘捕;忧虑 | |
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54 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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55 stanzas | |
节,段( stanza的名词复数 ) | |
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