Early the next morning we were aroused by the trampling1 of horses and tinkling2 of stirrups close to our resting places, apprising3 us that the hour of departure was near at hand. To travel with comfort in those hot regions, it is necessary to make the most of the absence of the sun, before its rays descend4 to the earth in glowing streams, parching5 the body and spirits of the traveller. Our people, therefore, commenced to saddle and load as early as three o’clock A.M. The operation usually occupied considerable time, as each animal had to be hunted in the dark, as well as its accoutrements. The baggage mules6, especially, required more than ordinary skill in replacing and adjusting the loads upon their backs by means of a hundred turns of the lazos, or raw-hide halters. And even after the greatest precautions, the vicious creatures endeavored to displace their loads by running against each other or rolling on the ground, to the inconceivable disgust of the drivers, who were often compelled to alight from their sumpters to put things to rights.
Our road lay this day across a wild and desolate8 valley, presenting the appearance of having once been{17} the scene of violent convulsions of nature, judging from the distorted masses of granite9 and gneiss piled along the route. The morning, though moonless, was bright with stars, which in those latitudes10 sparkle like diamonds in a setting of azure11. The air was balmy; and the solitude12 of the spot, only broken by the occasional shriek13 of a night owl14, or the refreshing15 murmur16 of a mountain stream, was truly sublime17.
Slowly winding18 our course down the rugged19 sides of a deep ravine, we came suddenly in view of a most glorious spectacle. The delicate tints20 of dawn were already gilding21 the rugged crest22 of the distant mountains; above these rose in silent grandeur23 what appeared at first a heavy cloud of an intense blue, the irregular outlines of which set in bold relief against the transparent24 sky, forming the background to the picture. I eagerly spurred my mule7 forward to gain an eminence25 from whence I could contemplate26 more advantageously that magnificent spectacle, when, to my great astonishment27, I discovered that, what I had supposed a cloud, was in fact the famous promontory28 known as the Morros de San Juan, the singular conformation of which has given rise to many speculations29 and legendary30 dissertations31 on the part of savants and others less versed32 in scientific researches. When the sun rose above the horizon, a more extraordinary scene was never unfolded to the eye of the spectator. The huge and rugged mountain, some thousand feet high, stood in the midst of a desolate gulf33, apparently34 of volcanic35 origin; while the vegetation, stunted36 and scrubby for want of adequate nourishment37, contrasted singularly with the granite{18} masses scattered38 all over the valley. The meandering39 rivulet40 of La Puerta, twice the scene of sanguinary conflicts between patriots41 and Spaniards, threaded its sparkling way through that Valley of Death, to mix its waters with those of the beautiful Guárico in the distance. In both of those engagements the arms of Spain were victorious42; but, as often happened in those days of guerra á muerte, the victors steeped their laurels43 in the blood of the vanquished44 with unsparing hand. These triumphs were shared alternately by the monster Boves and the sanguinary Morillo. It would be difficult to find two more bloody45 wretches46 than these myrmidons of despotism, whose very names are to this day the avenging47 cry against the race from which they both sprang. The forces opposed to them in these engagements hardly amounted to one-half their own numbers; but the patriots under Bolívar accepted the battle with the despair of men who have no alternative between death and an ignominious48 yoke49. It is asserted that the rivulet became, on both occasions, completely glutted50 with the gore51 and dead bodies of the vanquished. Morillo had a very narrow escape from the lance of the famous Juan Pablo Farfan, who deliberately52 attacked the Spanish chieftain in the midst of his staff. Although the bold Llanero succeeded in piercing the groin of the Spaniard with his lance, the wound was not sufficiently53 deep to cause his death.
The rugged crest of the mountain surrounded by an atmosphere resplendently clear, the wild and{19} shattered rocks, piled like the giant skeletons of an extinct race, together with the painful associations connected with the spot, made an impression upon my mind not easily forgotten.
Although I had often experienced a keen desire to see this natural wonder of my country, I could not repress a feeling of regret at the recollection of the sanguinary scenes enacted54 on this spot, and that my first impressions of astonishment should be replaced by others of a less pleasing character.
On awakening55 from the reverie into which the scene had plunged56 me, I perceived for the first time that I was alone, my less contemplative companions having proceeded on their journey while I was absorbed in wonder. I felt glad of my solitude, for the very silence seemed to breathe a prayer to the Almighty57 for the martyred children of Liberty before one of his most glorious temples.
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{20}
We reached the village of San Juan in time to breakfast at the house of our excellent friend Don José Pulido, a gentleman of most amiable58 and hospitable59 disposition60. While they prepared our morning meal, I repaired to the outskirts61 of the village to sketch62 the Morros, which from the distance appeared two huge castles in ruins. The continued action of the waters has furrowed63 the sides of the mountain—composed principally of a peculiar64 limestone—into many fantastic forms. The same wearing action has in like manner perforated the calcareous rock into a thousand subterranean65 passages or chasms66 of fathomless67 depth, it being asserted by persons who have approached sufficiently near the entrance of these caves, that a bowlder rolled down the abyss, is never heard to strike the bottom. I regretted exceedingly that our short stay at this place would not permit me to visit the interior of the main entrance to these subterranean passages, no person ever having ventured within the dark abode—as it is currently believed—of demons68 and the like. As a proof of this assertion, the villagers point out to the inquisitive69 traveller a spring issuing from that Tartarus highly charged with sulphurated hydrogen gas, the fumes70 of which are in themselves sufficiently powerful to convey the idea that something diabolical71 must be brewing72 in the bowels73 of the stupendous mountain. The spring, however, possesses highly medicinal virtues74; on this account it is often visited by invalids75 from various parts of the country, especially those affected76 with rheumatic or scrofulous complaints.
During a heavy freshet, the bones of an antediluvian{21} animal, supposed to be those of a mastodon, were disinterred by the torrent77 in the bed of a ravine. A portion of these bones were sent to us by our zealous78 friend Don José, as a great curiosity; as such they were transferred to the British Minister at Caracas, and finally consigned79 by him to the great Museum in London.
The village of San Juan is likewise noted80 for its fine climate and the total absence of epidemics81. Invalids affected with pulmonary complaints find there also an air and temperature most congenial. Beyond these advantages, San Juan offers no other attractions to the stranger capable of inducing a longer sojourn82 than is absolutely necessary, as not even a ranch83 has been raised there for the convenience of those seeking its beneficent waters.
After partaking of a substantial breakfast, composed of the most popular dishes of the country, such as carne frita, sancocho, and some delicious fish from the river Guárico, we bade adieu to our estimable host, Don José, and continued our journey down the stony84 bottom of a narrow quebrada or ravine, noted for its many windings85, and the quantities of sharp stones that pave the way; these are evidently the detached fragments of the basaltic formation constituting the base of the Morros. At Flores, a miserable86 country inn like all the rest along this route, we stopped a few moments to refresh ourselves with guarapo, a kind of cider made from the juice of sugar cane87, or by dissolving papelon in water and allowing it to ferment88 for a few days. The guarapo of Flores is celebrated89 throughout the country, and no person{22} passing through this place ever omits to call for it. When mixed with aguardiente, it forms what is termed carabina, (carbine;) the effects rarely fail to knock down those who rashly brave its fire.
Our next stopping place was the village of Ortiz, a little beyond that of Parapara. Taken together, they might be considered as the Pillars of Hercules to the grassy90 Mediterranean91 of the Llanos, and the terminus of civilized92 pursuits in that quarter, as there you find the last vestiges93 of agriculture and the useful arts. In addition to small patches of sugar cane and Indian corn raised by the inhabitants for their own consumption, they excel in the manufacture of leather, saddles, and their appurtenances, which they sell to all parts of the country. Beyond this, nothing is to be met with but wild herds94 of cattle grazing on prairies or steppes of vast extent, with the exception of the narrow belt of park-like scenery intervening between these and a ridge95 of low, rocky hills—galeras—which skirts the ancient shore of the great basin of those pampas. The galeras were doubtless the natural rampart of that extraordinary body of waters which, at some remote epoch96, must have filled the space now forming the grazing grounds of Venezuela, as attested97 by the nature of the soil and the organic remains98 found imbedded in the clay.
I noticed at Ortiz the same trap formation of the Morros, with extensive beds of basaltic slate99 protruding100 through the sides of the hills. Entire columns of this slate, varying from four to five feet in length by six inches diameter, are used in the village for{23} paving the thresholds of houses, their quadrangular form adapting them perfectly101 for this purpose without any additional labor102 after being detached from the rock. The action of the waters during the untold103 lapse104 of ages, or perhaps the irruptions of the sea itself when it beat against the sides of the hills, has caused the partial disintegration105 of the rock in many places, and scattered the debris106 far and wide over the surrounding country. Nevertheless, vegetation seemed nowhere affected in the least by this vast accumulation of loose stones; on the contrary, wherever it was favored by the depressions of the ground, trees of large dimensions, noted for hardness and durability107, sprang up, forming dense108 forests on either side of the road. Foremost in the long catalogue of splendid timber trees of Venezuela, we found there growing in great perfection the Vera, or Lignum Vit?—Zigophylum arboreum—the wood of which is so hard that it turns the edge of the best-tempered tools; breaking or splitting it seems equally impossible, on account of the interweaving of its fibres, which cross each other in diagonal layers. This tree has a wide range over the country, especially near the sea-coast, which circumstance renders it extremely useful in the construction of wharves109, as well as for the keels of ships; the attacks of the teredo or seaworm are futile110 upon the iron network of its fibres, on which account it can remain under water for an indefinite period and eventually become petrified111. The useful Guayacan or guaiacum of the arts, a nearly allied112 species of this tree, is also found here in the greatest abundance; unfortunately it is too short to be{24} employed for the same purposes as the former; it finds, however, numerous applications in naval113 construction, especially for blocks and pulleys for the rigging of vessels114. Turners employ it likewise for various articles requiring extreme hardness and a close grain.
The Alcornoque, a most beautiful tree, somewhat resembling the American elm, and scarcely inferior to the foregoing, raises here its graceful115 head above the rest, affording the cattle a permanent shade even during the driest seasons. It must not be confounded, however, with the well-known Spanish oak—Quercus suber—which yields the cork116 of commerce. It is largely employed in the Llanos in the construction of houses and fences. Braziletto wood—Cesalpinia braziletto—so celebrated for its beautiful dye, is so abundant here also, that all the fences at Ortiz and Parapara are made of this valuable dyewood.
The list of useful trees peculiar to this region could be extended beyond the limits of this chapter, were it not for the fear of taxing the patience of my reader with an abstract nomenclature. I cannot pass unnoticed, however, two other trees of no less importance to the natives, on account of their timber and medicinal properties; these are the Tacamahaca—Elaphrium tomentosum—and the tree that yields the precious balsam of copaiva—Copaifera officinalis. By making incisions117 in the trunk and branches of both these trees, a resinous119 fluid, possessing great healing powers when applied120 to wounds and other ailments121 of the flesh, is obtained in great abundance and collected in tin cans placed under the incisions. The{25} former is particularly abundant in the province of Guayana, where it attains122 to great dimensions. Its resin118, an opaque123, lemon-colored substance resembling wax, is very fragrant124, and when mixed with that of Cara?a or Algarroba, forms excellent torches which burn with great brilliancy, and emit a delicious odor. The bark is also remarkable125 as affording a material similar to that employed by the North American Indians in the construction of their canoes, and used similarly by their brethren of the Orinoco for their light pirogues. With this object the Indian separates the bark without breaking, and cutting it of the required dimensions, proceeds to join the extremities126 by means of bejucos or slender vines, filling the interstices with a little moist clay to throw off the water; the whole is then well bound with stronger vines, and a couple or more sticks are affixed127 between the borders of the pirogue to prevent its collapsing128 when launched into the broad stream.
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1
trampling
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| 踩( trample的现在分词 )； 践踏； 无视； 侵犯 | |
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tinkling
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| n.丁当作响声 | |
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apprising
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| v.告知，通知( apprise的现在分词 )；评价 | |
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descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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parching
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| adj.烘烤似的，焦干似的v.（使）焦干， （使）干透( parch的现在分词 )；使（某人）极口渴 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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latitudes
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| 纬度 | |
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azure
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| adj.天蓝色的，蔚蓝色的 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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shriek
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| v./n.尖叫，叫喊 | |
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owl
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| n.猫头鹰，枭 | |
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refreshing
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| adj.使精神振作的，使人清爽的，使人喜欢的 | |
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murmur
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| n.低语，低声的怨言；v.低语，低声而言 | |
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17
sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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18
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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19
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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tints
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| 色彩( tint的名词复数 )； 带白的颜色； （淡色）染发剂； 痕迹 | |
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gilding
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| n.贴金箔，镀金 | |
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crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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transparent
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| adj.明显的，无疑的；透明的 | |
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eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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contemplate
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| vt.盘算，计议；周密考虑；注视，凝视 | |
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astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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speculations
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| n.投机买卖( speculation的名词复数 )；思考；投机活动；推断 | |
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legendary
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| adj.传奇（中）的，闻名遐迩的；n.传奇（文学） | |
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dissertations
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| 专题论文，学位论文( dissertation的名词复数 ) | |
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32
versed
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| adj. 精通，熟练 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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stunted
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| adj.矮小的；发育迟缓的 | |
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nourishment
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| n.食物，营养品；营养情况 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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meandering
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| 蜿蜒的河流，漫步，聊天 | |
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rivulet
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| n.小溪，小河 | |
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patriots
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| 爱国者，爱国主义者( patriot的名词复数 ) | |
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42
victorious
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| adj.胜利的，得胜的 | |
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43
laurels
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| n.桂冠，荣誉 | |
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44
vanquished
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| v.征服( vanquish的过去式和过去分词 )；战胜；克服；抑制 | |
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45
bloody
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| adj.非常的的；流血的；残忍的；adv.很；vt.血染 | |
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46
wretches
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| n.不幸的人( wretch的名词复数 )；可怜的人；恶棍；坏蛋 | |
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47
avenging
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| adj.报仇的，复仇的v.为…复仇，报…之仇( avenge的现在分词 )；为…报复 | |
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48
ignominious
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| adj.可鄙的，不光彩的，耻辱的 | |
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49
yoke
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| n.轭；支配；v.给...上轭，连接，使成配偶 | |
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50
glutted
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| v.吃得过多( glut的过去式和过去分词 )；（对胃口、欲望等）纵情满足；使厌腻；塞满 | |
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51
gore
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| n.凝血，血污；v.（动物）用角撞伤，用牙刺破；缝以补裆；顶 | |
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52
deliberately
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| adv.审慎地；蓄意地；故意地 | |
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53
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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54
enacted
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| 制定（法律），通过（法案）( enact的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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55
awakening
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| n.觉醒，醒悟 adj.觉醒中的；唤醒的 | |
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56
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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57
almighty
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| adj.全能的，万能的；很大的，很强的 | |
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amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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60
disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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outskirts
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| n.郊外，郊区 | |
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sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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furrowed
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| v.犁田，开沟( furrow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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subterranean
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| adj.地下的，地表下的 | |
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chasms
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| 裂缝( chasm的名词复数 )； 裂口； 分歧； 差别 | |
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fathomless
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| a.深不可测的 | |
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demons
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| n.恶人( demon的名词复数 )；恶魔；精力过人的人；邪念 | |
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inquisitive
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| adj.求知欲强的，好奇的，好寻根究底的 | |
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70
fumes
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| n.(强烈而刺激的)气味，气体 | |
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diabolical
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| adj.恶魔似的，凶暴的 | |
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72
brewing
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| n. 酿造, 一次酿造的量 动词brew的现在分词形式 | |
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bowels
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| n.肠，内脏，内部；肠( bowel的名词复数 )；内部，最深处 | |
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virtues
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| 美德( virtue的名词复数 )； 德行； 优点； 长处 | |
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invalids
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| 病人，残疾者( invalid的名词复数 ) | |
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76
affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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77
torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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zealous
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| adj.狂热的，热心的 | |
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consigned
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| v.把…置于（令人不快的境地）( consign的过去式和过去分词 )；把…托付给；把…托人代售；丟弃 | |
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80
noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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81
epidemics
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| n．流行病 | |
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82
sojourn
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| v./n.旅居，寄居；逗留 | |
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83
ranch
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| n.大牧场，大农场 | |
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84
stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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windings
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| （道路、河流等）蜿蜒的，弯曲的( winding的名词复数 )； 缠绕( wind的现在分词 )； 卷绕； 转动（把手） | |
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86
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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87
cane
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| n.手杖，细长的茎，藤条；v.以杖击，以藤编制的 | |
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88
ferment
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| vt.使发酵；n./vt.（使）激动，（使）动乱 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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90
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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Mediterranean
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| adj.地中海的；地中海沿岸的 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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vestiges
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| 残余部分( vestige的名词复数 )； 遗迹； 痕迹； 毫不 | |
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herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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95
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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epoch
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| n.(新)时代；历元 | |
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97
attested
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| adj.经检验证明无病的，经检验证明无菌的v.证明( attest的过去式和过去分词 )；证实；声称…属实；使宣誓 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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slate
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| n.板岩，石板，石片，石板色，候选人名单；adj.暗蓝灰色的，含板岩的；vt.用石板覆盖，痛打，提名，预订 | |
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protruding
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| v.（使某物）伸出，（使某物）突出( protrude的现在分词 )；凸 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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102
labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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103
untold
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| adj.数不清的，无数的 | |
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104
lapse
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| n.过失，流逝，失效，抛弃信仰，间隔；vi.堕落，停止，失效，流逝；vt.使失效 | |
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disintegration
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| n.分散，解体 | |
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106
debris
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| n.瓦砾堆，废墟，碎片 | |
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107
durability
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| n.经久性，耐用性 | |
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108
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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109
wharves
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| n.码头，停泊处( wharf的名词复数 ) | |
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110
futile
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| adj.无效的，无用的，无希望的 | |
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111
petrified
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| adj.惊呆的；目瞪口呆的v.使吓呆，使惊呆；变僵硬；使石化(petrify的过去式和过去分词) | |
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allied
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| adj.协约国的；同盟国的 | |
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113
naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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114
vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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115
graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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116
cork
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| n.软木，软木塞 | |
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117
incisions
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| n.切开，切口( incision的名词复数 ) | |
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118
resin
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| n.树脂，松香，树脂制品；vt.涂树脂 | |
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119
resinous
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| adj.树脂的，树脂质的，树脂制的 | |
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120
applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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121
ailments
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| 疾病（尤指慢性病），不适( ailment的名词复数 ) | |
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122
attains
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的第三人称单数 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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123
opaque
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| adj.不透光的；不反光的，不传导的；晦涩的 | |
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124
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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125
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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126
extremities
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| n.端点( extremity的名词复数 )；尽头；手和足；极窘迫的境地 | |
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affixed
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| adj.[医]附着的，附着的v.附加( affix的过去式和过去分词 )；粘贴；加以；盖（印章） | |
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128
collapsing
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| 压扁[平]，毁坏，断裂 | |
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