Unpublished fragment from Mr. Arthur Young's diary of his travels inItaly in the year 1789.
October 1st.
Having agreed with a vetturino to carry me to Pianura, set out thismorning from Mantua. The country mostly arable1, with rows of elm andmaple pollard. Dined at Casal Maggiore, in an infamous2 filthy3 inn. Atdinner was joined by a gentleman who had taken the other seat in thevettura as far as Pianura. We engaged in conversation and I found him aman of lively intelligence and the most polished address. Though dressedin the foreign style, en abbe, he spoke5 English with as much fluency6 asmyself, and but for the philosophical7 tone of his remarks I had takenhim for an ecclesiastic8. Altogether a striking and somewhat perplexingcharacter: able, keen, intelligent, evidently used to the best company,yet acquainted with the condition of the people, the methods of farming,and other economical subjects such as are seldom thought worthy9 ofattention among Italians of quality.
It appeared he was newly from France, where he had been as much struckas myself by the general state of ferment10. Though owning that there wasmuch reason for discontent, and that the conduct of the court andministers was blind and infatuated beyond belief, he yet declaredhimself gravely apprehensive11 of the future, saying that the people knewnot what they wanted, and were unwilling12 to listen to those that mighthave proved their best advisors13. Whether by this he meant the clergy14 Iknow not; though I observed he spoke favourably15 of that body in France,pointing out that, long before the recent agitations16, they had defendedthe civil rights of the Third Estate, and citing many cases in which thecountry curates had shown themselves the truest friends of the people: afact my own observation hath confirmed.
I remarked to him that I was surprised to find how little talk there wasin Italy of the distracted conditions in France; and this though thecountry is overrun with French refugees, or emigres, as they callthemselves, who bring with them reports that might well excite the alarmof neighbouring governments. He said he had remarked the sameindifference, but that this was consonant17 with the Italian character,which never looked to the morrow; and he added that the mild dispositionof the people, and their profound respect for religion, were sufficientassurance against any political excess.
To this I could not forbear replying that I could not regard as excessesthe just protests of the poor against the unlawful tyranny of theprivileged classes, nor forbear to hail with joy the dawn of that lightof freedom which hath already shed so sublime18 an effulgence19 on the wildsof the New World. The abate20 took this in good part, though I could seehe was not wholly of my way of thinking; but he declared that in hisopinion different races needed different laws, and that the sturdy andtemperate American colonists21 were fitted to enjoy a greater measure ofpolitical freedom than the more volatile22 French and Italians--as thoughliberty were not destined23 by the Creator to be equally shared by allmankind! (Footnote: I let this passage stand, though the late unhappyevents in France have, alas24! proved that my friend the abate was nearerright than myself. June, 1794.)In the afternoon through a poor country to Ponte di Po, a miserablevillage on the borders of the duchy, where we lay, not slept, in ourclothes, at the worst inn I have yet encountered. Here our luggage wasplumbed for Pianura. The impertinence of the petty sovereigns totravellers in Italy is often intolerable, and the customs officers showthe utmost insolence25 in the search for seditious pamphlets and othercontraband articles; but here I was agreeably surprised by the courtesyof the officials and the despatch26 with which our luggage was examined.
On my remarking this, my companion replied that the Duke of Pianura wasa man of liberal views, anxious to encourage foreigners to visit hisstate, and the last to put petty obstacles in the way of travel. Ianswered, this was the report I had heard of him; and it was in the hopeof learning something more of the reforms he was said to have effected,that I had turned aside to visit the duchy. My companion replied thathis Highness had in fact introduced some innovations in the government;but that changes which seemed the most beneficial in one direction oftenworked mischief27 in another, so that the wisest ruler was perhaps not hethat did the greatest amount of good, but he that was cause of thefewest evils.
The 2nd.
From Ponte di Po to Pianura the most convenient way is by water; but theriver Piana being greatly swollen28 by the late rains, my friend, whoseems well-acquainted with the country, proposed driving thither29: asuggestion I readily accepted, as it gave me a good opportunity to studythe roads and farms of the duchy.
Crossing the Piana, drove near four hours over horrible roads acrosswaste land, thinly wooded, without houses or cultivation30. On myexpressing surprise that the territory of so enlightened a prince wouldlie thus neglected, the abate said this land was a fief of the see ofPianura, and that the Duke was desirous of annexing31 it to the duchy. Iasked if it were true that his Highness had given his people aconstitution modelled on that of the Duke of Tuscany. He said he hadheard the report; but that for his part he must deplore33 any measuretending to debar the clergy from the possession of land. Seeing mysurprise, he explained that, in Italy at least, the religious orderswere far better landlords than the great nobles or the petty sovereigns,who, being for the most part absent from their estates, left theirpeasantry to be pillaged34 by rapacious35 middlemen and stewards36: anargument I have heard advanced by other travellers, and have myself hadfrequent occasion to corroborate37.
On leaving the Bishop's domain38, remarked an improvement in the roads.
Flat land, well irrigated39, and divided as usual into small holdings. Thepernicious metayer system exists everywhere, but I am told the Duke isopposed to it, though it is upheld not only by the landed class, but bythe numerous economists41 that write on agriculture from their closets,but would doubtless be sorely puzzled to distinguish a beet-root from aturnip.
The 3rd.
Set out early to visit Pianura. The city clean and well-kept. The Dukehas introduced street-lamps, such as are used in Turin, and the pavementis remarkably43 fair and even. Few beggars are to be seen and the peoplehave a thriving look. Visited the Cathedral and Baptistery, in theGothic style, more curious than beautiful; also the Duke's picturegallery.
Learning that the Duchess was to ride out in the afternoon, had thecuriosity to walk abroad to see her. A good view of her as she left thepalace. Though no longer in her first youth she is one of the handsomestwomen I have seen. Remarked a decided44 likeness45 to the Queen of France,though the eye and smile are less engaging. The people in the streetsreceived her sullenly46, and I am told her debts and disorders48 are thescandal of the town. She has, of course, her cicisbeo, and the Duke isthe devoted49 slave of a learned lady, who is said to exert an unlimitedinfluence over him, and to have done much to better the condition of thepeople. A new part for a prince's mistress to play!
In the evening to the theatre, a handsome building, well-lit with wax,where Cimarosa's Due Baroni was agreeably sung.
The 4th.
My lord Hervey, in Florence, having favoured me with a letter to CountTrescorre, the Duke's prime minister, I waited on that gentlemanyesterday. His excellency received me politely and assured me that heknew me by reputation and would do all he could to put me in the way ofinvestigating the agricultural conditions of the duchy. Contrary to theItalian custom, he invited me to dine with him the next day. As a rulethese great nobles do not open their doors to foreigners, however wellrecommended.
Visited, by appointment, the press of the celebrated50 Andreoni, who wasbanished during the late Duke's reign4 for suspected liberal tendencies,but is now restored to favour and placed at the head of the RoyalTypography. Signor Andreoni received me with every mark of esteem51, andafter having shown me some of the finest examples of his work--such asthe Pindar, the Lucretius and the Dante--accompanied me to aneighbouring coffee-house, where I was introduced to several lovers ofagriculture. Here I learned some particulars of the Duke's attemptedreforms. He has undertaken the work of draining the vast marsh52 ofPontesordo, to the west of the city, notorious for its mal'aria; hasrenounced the monopoly of corn and tobacco; has taken the University outof the hands of the Barnabites, and introduced the teaching of thephysical sciences, formerly53 prohibited by the Church; has spent sincehis accession near 200,000 liv. on improving the roads throughout theduchy, and is now engaged in framing a constitution which shall deprivethe clergy of the greatest part of their privileges and confirm thesovereign's right to annex32 ecclesiastical territory for the benefit ofthe people.
In spite of these radical54 measures, his Highness is not popular with themasses. He is accused of irreligion by the monks55 that he has removedfrom the University, and his mistress, the daughter of a notedfree-thinker who was driven from Piedmont by the Inquisition, is said tohave an unholy influence over him. I am told these rumours56 arediligently fomented57 by the late Duke's minister, now Prior of theDominican monastery58, a man of bigoted59 views but great astuteness60. Thetruth is, the people are so completely under the influence of the friarsthat a word is enough to turn them against their truest benefactors61.
In the afternoon I was setting out to visit the Bishop's gallery whenCount Trescorre's secretary waited on me with an invitation to inspectthe estates of the Marchioness of Boscofolto: an offer I readilyaccepted--for what are the masterpieces of Raphael or Cleomenes to thesight of a good turnip42 field or of a well-kept dairy?
I had heard of Boscofolto, which was given by the late Duke to hismistress, as one of the most productive estates of the duchy; but greatwas my disappointment on beholding62 it. Fine gardens there are, to besure, clipt walks, leaden statues, and water-works; but as for thefarms, all is dirt, neglect, disorder47. Spite of the lady's wealth, allare let out alla meta, and farmed on principles that would disgrace asavage. The spade used instead of the plough, the hedges neglected,mole-casts in the pastures, good land run to waste, the peasantsstarving and indebted--where, with a little thrift63 and humanity, all hadbeen smiling plenty! Learned that on the owner's death this greatproperty reverts64 to the Barnabites.
From Boscofolto to the church of the Madonna del Monte, where is one oftheir wonder-working images, said to be annually65 visited by close onthirty thousand pilgrims; but there is always some exaggeration in suchfigures. A fine building, richly adorned66, and hung with an extraordinarynumber of votive offerings: silver arms, legs, hearts, wax images, andpaintings. Some of these latter are clearly the work of village artists,and depict67 the miraculous68 escape of the peasantry from variouscalamities, and the preservation69 of their crops from floods, drought,lightning and so forth70. These poor wretches71 had done more to bettertheir crops by spending their savings72 in good ploughshares and harrowsthan by hanging gew-gaws on a wooden idol73.
The Rector received us civilly and showed us the treasury74, full ofjewels and costly75 plate, and the buildings where the pilgrims arelodged. Learned that the Giubileo or centenary festival of the Madonnais shortly to be celebrated with great pomp. The poorer classes delightin these ceremonies, and I am told this is to surpass all previous ones,the clergy intending to work on the superstitions77 of the people and thusturn them against the new charter. It is said the Duke hopes tocounteract these designs by offering a jewelled diadem78 to the Virgin;but this will no doubt do him a bad turn with the esprits libres. Theselittle states are as full of intrigues79 as a foul80 fruit of maggots.
The 5th.
To dinner at Count Trescorre's where, as usual, I was theplainest-dressed man in the company. Have long since ceased to beconcerned by this: why should a mere81 English farmer compete in elegancewith these Monsignori and Illustrissimi? Surprised to find among thecompany my travelling-companion of the other day. Learned that he is theabate de Crucis, a personal friend of the Duke's. He greeted mecordially, and on hearing my name, said that he was acquainted with myworks in the translation of Mons. Freville, and now understood how itwas that I had got the better of him in our farming disputations on theway hither.
Was surprised to be told by Count Trescorre that the Duke desired me towait on him that evening. Though in general not ambitious of suchhonours, yet in this case nothing could be more gratifying.
The 6th.
Yesterday evening to the palace, where his Highness received me withgreat affability. He was in his private apartments, with the abate deCrucis and several other learned men; among them the famous abateCrescenti, librarian to his Highness and author of the celebratedChronicles of the Italian States. Happy indeed is the prince whosurrounds himself with scholars instead of courtiers! Yet I cannot saythat the impression his Highness produced on me was one of HAPPINESS.
His countenance83 is sad, almost careworn84, though with a smile of engagingsweetness; his manner affable without condescension85, and open withoutfamiliarity. I am told he is oppressed by the cares of his station; andfrom a certain irresolution86 of voice and eye, that bespeaks87 not so muchweakness as a speculative88 cast of mind, I can believe him less fittedfor active government than for the meditations89 of the closet. Heappears, however, zealous90 to perform his duties; questioned me eagerlyabout my impressions of Italy, and showed a flattering familiarity withmy works, and a desire to profit by what he was pleased to call myexceptional knowledge of agriculture. I thought I perceived in him asincere wish to study the welfare of his people; but was disappointed tofind among his chosen associates not one practical farmer or economist40,but only the usual closet-theorists that are too busy planning Utopiasto think of planting turnips91.
The 7th.
Visited his Highness's estate at Valsecca. Here he has converted ahandsome seat into a school of agriculture, tearing down an immenseorangery to plant mulberries, and replacing costly gardens and statuaryby well-tilled fields: a good example to his wealthy subjects.
Unfortunately his bailiff is not what we should call a practical farmer;and many acres of valuable ground are given up to a botanic garden,where exotic plants are grown at great expense, and rather for curiositythan use: a common error of noble agriculturists.
In the afternoon with the abate de Crucis to the Benedictine monastery,a league beyond the city. Here I saw the best farming in the duchy. ThePrior received us politely and conversed92 with intelligence on drainage,crops and irrigation. I urged on him the cultivation of turnips and heappeared struck by my arguments. The tenants93 on this great estateappeared better housed and fed than any I have seen in Pianura. Themonks have a school of agriculture, less pretentious94 but better-managedthan the Duke's. Some of them study physics and chemistry, and there aregood chirurgeons among them, who care for the poor without pay. The agedand infirm peasants are housed in a neat almshouse, and the sick nursedin a clean well-built lazaret. Altogether an agreeable picture of ruralprosperity, though I had rather it had been the result of FREE LABOURthan of MONASTIC BOUNTY95.
The 8th.
By appointment, to the Duke's Egeria. This lady, the Signorina F.V.,having heard that I was in Pianura, had desired the Signor Andreoni tobring me to her.
I had expected a female of the loud declamatory type: something of theCorilla Olimpica order; but in this was agreeably disappointed. TheSignorina V. is modestly lodged76, lives in the frugal96 style of the middleclass, and refuses to accept a title, though she is thus debarred fromgoing to court. Were it not indiscreet to speculate on a lady's age, Ishould put hers at somewhat above thirty. Though without the Duchess'scommanding elegance82 she has, I believe, more beauty of a quiet sort: acountenance at once soft and animated97, agreeably tinged98 with melancholy,yet lit up by the incessant99 play of thought and emotion that succeedeach other in her talk. Better conversation I never heard; and canheartily confirm the assurances of those who had told me that the ladywas as agreeable in discourse101 as learned in the closet. (Footnote: Ithas before now been observed that the FREE and VOLATILE manners offoreign ladies tend to blind the English traveller to the inferiority oftheir PHYSICAL charms. Note by a Female Friend of the Author.)On entering, found a numerous company assembled to compliment my hostesson her recent appointment as doctor of the University. This is an honournot uncommonly102 conferred in Italy, where female learning, perhaps fromits rarity, is highly esteemed103; but I am told the ladies thusdistinguished seldom speak in public, though their degree entitles themto a chair in the University. In the Signorina V.'s society I found themost advanced reformers of the duchy: among others Signor Gamba, thefamous pamphleteer, author of a remarkable104 treatise105 on taxation106, whichhad nearly cost him his liberty under the late Duke's reign. He is a manof extreme views and sarcastic107 tongue, with an irritability108 of mannerthat is perhaps the result of bodily infirmities. His ideas, I am told,have much weight with the fair doctoress; and in the lampoons109 of the daythe new constitution is said to be the offspring of their amours, and tohave inherited its father's deformity.
The company presently withdrawing, my hostess pressed me to remain. Shewas eager for news from France, spoke admiringly of the newconstitution, and recited in a moving manner an Ode of her owncomposition on the Fall of the Bastille. Though living so retired110 shemakes no secret of her connection with the Duke; said he had told her ofhis conversation with me, and asked what I thought of his plan fordraining the marsh of Pontesordo. On my attempting to reply to this indetail, I saw that, like some of the most accomplished111 of her sex, shewas impatient of minutiae112, and preferred general ideas to particularinstances; but when the talk turned on the rights of the people I wasstruck by the energy and justice of her remarks, and by a tone ofresolution and courage that made me to say to myself: "Here is the handthat rules the state."She questioned me earnestly about the state of affairs in France, beggedme to lend her what pamphlets I could procure113, and while making nosecret of her republican sympathies, expressed herself with a moderationnot always found in her sex. Of the clergy alone she appearedintolerant: a fact hardly to be wondered at, considering the persecutionto which she and her father have been subjected. She detained me neartwo hours in such discourse, and on my taking leave asked with some showof feeling what I, as a practical economist, would advise the Duke to dofor the benefit of his people; to which I replied, "Plant turnips,madam!" and she laughed heartily100, and said no doubt I was right. But Ifear all the heads here are too full of fine theories to condescend114 tosuch simple improvements...
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arable
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| adj.可耕的，适合种植的 | |
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infamous
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| adj.声名狼藉的，臭名昭著的，邪恶的 | |
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filthy
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| adj.卑劣的；恶劣的，肮脏的 | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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fluency
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| n.流畅，雄辩，善辩 | |
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philosophical
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| adj.哲学家的，哲学上的，达观的 | |
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ecclesiastic
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| n.教士，基督教会；adj.神职者的，牧师的，教会的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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ferment
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| vt.使发酵；n./vt.（使）激动，（使）动乱 | |
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apprehensive
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| adj.担心的，恐惧的，善于领会的 | |
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unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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advisors
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| n.顾问，劝告者( advisor的名词复数 )；（指导大学新生学科问题等的）指导教授 | |
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clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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favourably
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| adv. 善意地，赞成地 =favorably | |
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agitations
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| （液体等的）摇动( agitation的名词复数 )； 鼓动； 激烈争论； （情绪等的）纷乱 | |
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consonant
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| n.辅音；adj.[音]符合的 | |
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sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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effulgence
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abate
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| vi.(风势，疼痛等)减弱，减轻，减退 | |
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colonists
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| n.殖民地开拓者，移民，殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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volatile
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| adj.反复无常的，挥发性的，稍纵即逝的，脾气火爆的；n.挥发性物质 | |
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destined
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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insolence
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despatch
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| n./v.(dispatch)派遣；发送；n.急件；新闻报道 | |
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mischief
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swollen
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| adj.肿大的，水涨的；v.使变大，肿胀 | |
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thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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annexing
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| 并吞( annex的现在分词 )； 兼并； 强占； 并吞（国家、地区等） | |
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annex
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| vt.兼并，吞并；n.附属建筑物 | |
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deplore
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pillaged
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rapacious
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stewards
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| （轮船、飞机等的）乘务员( steward的名词复数 )； （俱乐部、旅馆、工会等的）管理员； （大型活动的）组织者； （私人家中的）管家 | |
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corroborate
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domain
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| n.(活动等)领域，范围；领地，势力范围 | |
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irrigated
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| [医]冲洗的 | |
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economist
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| n.经济学家，经济专家，节俭的人 | |
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economists
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| n.经济学家，经济专家( economist的名词复数 ) | |
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turnip
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| n.萝卜，芜菁 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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likeness
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sullenly
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| 不高兴地，绷着脸，忧郁地 | |
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disorder
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| n.紊乱，混乱；骚动，骚乱；疾病，失调 | |
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disorders
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| n.混乱( disorder的名词复数 )；凌乱；骚乱；（身心、机能）失调 | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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celebrated
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esteem
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marsh
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formerly
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radical
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| n.激进份子，原子团，根号；adj.根本的，激进的，彻底的 | |
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monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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rumours
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| n.传闻( rumour的名词复数 )；风闻；谣言；谣传 | |
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fomented
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| v.激起，煽动（麻烦等）( foment的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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bigoted
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| adj.固执己见的，心胸狭窄的 | |
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astuteness
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| n.敏锐；精明；机敏 | |
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benefactors
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| n.捐助者，施主( benefactor的名词复数 )；恩人 | |
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beholding
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| v.看，注视( behold的现在分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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thrift
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| adj.节约，节俭；n.节俭，节约 | |
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reverts
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| 恢复( revert的第三人称单数 )； 重提； 回到…上； 归还 | |
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annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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depict
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| vt.描画，描绘；描写，描述 | |
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miraculous
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| adj.像奇迹一样的，不可思议的 | |
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preservation
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| n.保护，维护，保存，保留，保持 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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wretches
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| n.不幸的人( wretch的名词复数 )；可怜的人；恶棍；坏蛋 | |
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savings
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| n.存款，储蓄 | |
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idol
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| n.偶像，红人，宠儿 | |
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treasury
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| n.宝库；国库，金库；文库 | |
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costly
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| adj.昂贵的，价值高的，豪华的 | |
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lodged
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| v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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superstitions
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| 迷信，迷信行为( superstition的名词复数 ) | |
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diadem
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| n.王冠，冕 | |
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intrigues
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| n.密谋策划( intrigue的名词复数 )；神秘气氛；引人入胜的复杂情节v.搞阴谋诡计( intrigue的第三人称单数 )；激起…的好奇心 | |
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foul
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| adj.污秽的；邪恶的；v.弄脏；妨害；犯规；n.犯规 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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elegance
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| n.优雅；优美，雅致；精致，巧妙 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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careworn
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| adj.疲倦的，饱经忧患的 | |
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condescension
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| n.自以为高人一等，贬低(别人) | |
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irresolution
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| n.不决断，优柔寡断，犹豫不定 | |
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bespeaks
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| v.预定( bespeak的第三人称单数 )；订（货）；证明；预先请求 | |
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speculative
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| adj.思索性的，暝想性的，推理的 | |
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meditations
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| 默想( meditation的名词复数 )； 默念； 沉思； 冥想 | |
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zealous
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| adj.狂热的，热心的 | |
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turnips
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| 芜青( turnip的名词复数 )； 芜菁块根； 芜菁甘蓝块根； 怀表 | |
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conversed
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| v.交谈，谈话( converse的过去式 ) | |
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tenants
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| n.房客( tenant的名词复数 )；佃户；占用者；占有者 | |
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pretentious
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| adj.自命不凡的，自负的，炫耀的 | |
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bounty
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| n.慷慨的赠予物，奖金；慷慨，大方；施与 | |
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frugal
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| adj.节俭的，节约的，少量的，微量的 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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tinged
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| v.（使）发丁丁声( ting的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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101
discourse
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| n.论文，演说；谈话；话语；vi.讲述，著述 | |
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uncommonly
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| adv. 稀罕(极，非常) | |
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103
esteemed
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| adj.受人尊敬的v.尊敬( esteem的过去式和过去分词 )；敬重；认为；以为 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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treatise
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| n.专著；(专题)论文 | |
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106
taxation
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| n.征税，税收，税金 | |
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107
sarcastic
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| adj.讥讽的，讽刺的，嘲弄的 | |
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irritability
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| n.易怒 | |
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109
lampoons
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| n.讽刺文章或言辞( lampoon的名词复数 )v.冷嘲热讽，奚落( lampoon的第三人称单数 ) | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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111
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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112
minutiae
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| n.微小的细节，细枝末节；（常复数）细节，小事( minutia的名词复数 ) | |
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113
procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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114
condescend
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| v.俯就，屈尊；堕落，丢丑 | |
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